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Prophet of Entropy

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Everything posted by Prophet of Entropy

  1. new thread title needed,'Doge mining killed my computer and all I got was this lousy thread'. but joking aside, you said a fitting leaked, just curious what kind and what brand of fitting? where did it leak, threads or hose? how old are your fittings? how long had your loop been put together?
  2. to answer your waterblock question. what waterblock is best? the one that fits your card and you like the look of. they all will give very nearly identical temps. if you want better cooling performance your better off getting more rad. as for VRM temps with a g10 buy some stick on copper or aluminium heat sinks and trim them to size. with that and the g10s fan your VRMs will never exceed their 95c design temp.
  3. pump, any D5 laing (laing is the manufacturer) brand or variant. they are incredibly reliable pumps, something like 0.04% RMA rate. coolant, feser one, any koolance coolant, ice dragon, hydrx, mayhems pastels. theres lots of good coolants. and for your loop youll only need about 1 liter, but that depends on how much and how big your tubing will be and exactly how big you reservoir will be.
  4. I think you have an airflow problem, since one card is a blower and the other isn't, which mean your pny card is ingesting waste heat from your zotac, but not vise versa. you might want to add a filtered intake fan to the side of your case over your gpus. depending on your case you also might want to add a bottom exhaust fan also so your cpu wont eat the gpu's heat. a good case can make a big difference in temps. or you can mod the crap out of an old one.
  5. 880s probly wont be out for 8-10 months, and when they do come out they will probably be better then a 780ti but will cost 700ish, since that seems to be what nivida wants their high end consumer cards to cost. the reason 780s dropped in price was the 290X came out and made nivida release fully a enabled gk110 card to maintain their status as the manufacturer of the highest performance gpu.
  6. any reason to not take off your side panel have a household fan blowing into your case for the summer?
  7. yes people use it, but its rare. its too expensive for its performance.
  8. work; yes temps; bad, exactly how bad will depend on load and ambient. if you have AC sure, but your fans have to be loud under load, probably as loud as if you under air. if portability and cost aren't important to you, run a couple D5s in series (or just 1 depending on how far away the rad will be) to an MO-RA3 360 or some other external radiator solution, you could even go with a passive rad & SSDs and have a completely silent build.
  9. if your intakes aren't filtered you'll get more dust in your case. the more ambient dust you have the more will get in your case. pull fans are nice since it makes it easier to clean the rads since the fans wont be in the way.
  10. as long as you clean out all the old hydrx using either of those coolants should be fine.
  11. you can watercool a fractal ARC XL pretty well, and they only run a little over 100$, but with out knowing how much stuff you want to put in your case...
  12. the reason thick rads work at low rpms work is, generally the thicker the rad the lower the FPI (fins per inch). lower FPI mean more room for airflow even if the air travels further. convection adds or takes away so little efficiency in computer water loops its not worth mentioning. convection would be a thing if designing a loop with like 1000 blocks, but 0.1 degrees isn't very important in a personal loop.
  13. put your pump on the fastest it will go and tilt your case in all directions as much as you can without sending air back into your pump.
  14. air cools my radiators, the fans that move that air are GTs and Triebwerks.
  15. you also might want to use a different style of universal block for SLI one with the fitting ports on the same side or at least not angled into the other card.
  16. the buzzing is probably 2 surfaces hitting each other cause of vibration. make sure all the screws are tight.
  17. I meant cleaning the rad, not the cold plate, special cleaners are really only needed when your going to use a liquid metal TIM. I recently cleaned my HTPC (old main rig) 3 year old asetek cooler's rad by putting the rad in a bucket of very hot soapy water and dunking it for 15 mins to clean it better then just blowing it off. it helped a supprising amount, the rad had looked clean but made the water fairly brown. some stress tests put unreallistic loads on the hardware (furmark is bad for this, really really bad depending on the version, but good if your benching max power draw) . why I don't really care about stress test heats. run your most demanding game on the highest settings you plan on using and monitor the heat during that.
  18. the pump speeding up really shouldn't matter very much for cooling. as far as I know it doesn't even have a variable speed pump. simple fact is an AIO cooler will get worse and worse temps over time. given it was on a 570 before this, its what 2 years old? just cause it "never needs maintenance" doesn't mean the coolant wont degrade over time or evaporate through microscopic holes. they have a 2 year limited warranty. how did you clean it before you installed it? did your buddy smoke around his computer? also does your accelero rad get cool ambient air? or is it acting as an exhaust with an air cooled cpu. there's lots of reasons other people may be getting better temps then you. custom loops are nice since you can take them apart clean them to like new, add new coolant and it preforms like it was new. the ticking is cavitation, that its happening is bad. simple fact is its a copper aluminum loop which means if the coolant isn't in balance or goes bad your gonna get corrosion. it can happen in new cars, coolant gets contaminated and a car that less then 6 months old has a radiator rot from the inside out.
  19. if you are willing to use push/pull and have the room, gtx120 would preform slightly betting since it has 2.5 times the FPI.
  20. using any adhesive on paint runs the risk of damaging the paint when you try to remove it. going the tape route isn't really used to keep the case pretty, its more cause its easier and faster.
  21. yea 99% sure your that card uses a reference PCB.
  22. if your MB doesn't support fan control, buy a fan controller. or live with the noise.
  23. no it wasn't, cause if there was air in the rad and not the pump the pump wouldn't have been noisy and a pump with water in it would push water till it sucked air. this is the reason large industrial C-pumps will sometimes have air bleed valves on them.
  24. this is your problem right here, a case fan isn't pressure optimized and the rad is a high fin per inch rad and it need a pressure fan. 2 would work slightly better.
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