Khoomn

Fixed the issue: Drives were detected as "foreign" so clearing foreign configuration set all the drives to "ready" which then allowed me to switch to HBA mode

I'm trying to setup this T430 I got to be a TrueNAS server. It has 8 hot swapable drives in the front connected to a PERC H730. My problem is, when I go to switch to HBA mode, it says "The requested operation is not possible at this time". I've tried clearing all configuration and resetting to default and I get the same error. Is there a reason for this?

15 hours ago, Gorgon said:

Likely NOT. These devices only have one eSATA port and thus to access all the disks they must have a Port Multiplier. These are problematic as they share a single 6Gbps eSATA connection.

 

What you likely want is a real 4-disk JBOD (Just a Bunch of Disks) SAS/SATA enclosure with a SFF Connector and a Host Bus Adapter (HBA) with an external connector as well as the appropriate cable.

So there is a synology 5 bay DAS at my work in the ewaste pile, seems to work fine, just need to buy an eSATA PCIe card that supports port multiplication. Is it still dodgy even though its through synology?

19 minutes ago, TimedPing said:

You know what? what of Optiplex are you using? is it using standard motherboard form factor? if that so, just transplant the system to the new case, maybe you need a new PSU and some ATX 24 pin to Proprietary Dell PSU adapter, but still cheaper than buying those external enclosure alone.

I forget the optiplex model but it has one of those weird MOBOs that is both front and back IO so it doesnt fit the standard.

22 minutes ago, TimedPing said:

Plug and play is depend on what OS youre using, especially adding FreeBSD-based TrueNAS core on the mix, which is having some trouble with some controller that not officially supported by default FreeBSD driver set in the kernel. well, both controller card is supported but quite in the older side. I dont remember mentioning "external controller" words tho. Also, the external drive enclosure youre using is using SATA Expander, make sure the eSATA controller you're buying supports the feature.

Also still a bit confused what you mean by "SATA Expander". The Listing just says "eSATA". Even on one of the listings it has the "frequently bought together" with one of the cards i sent as seen below.

11 minutes ago, TimedPing said:

Absolutely! just use more modern eSATA controller, preferably ASMedia ASM116x or JMicron JMB5xx based controller, and probably you gonna need TrueNAS scale for wider SATA controller compatibility (since its running Linux not FreeBSD in TrueNAS core)

Both of those controllers look like they are internal and not external.

Also what "wider SATA controller capability" do you mean? the two listed below are listed as plug and play

I was looking at these two

https://www.amazon.com/eSATA3-0-SATA3-0-Non-Raid-Controller-Support/dp/B09Y1PHD9P

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Port-Express-eSATA-Controller/dp/B00952N2DQ

1 minute ago, TimedPing said:

ah my bad, I didn't click at the product you listed, I thought it's only using USB at first. so you gonna passtrough internal SATA port in the Dell or buy add in eSATA controller to the dock? no problem at all, just work like any internal SATA drives would

Yeah I have 1 spot left in the optiplex that i can put an eSATA PCIe card in. That should work?

4 minutes ago, TimedPing said:

Theoretically yes, you can use it, just make sure the external drive bays (which is also called DAS/Direct Attached Storage) is support UASP (USB Attached SCSi Protocol), also, I believe in newer version of TrueNAS, you need to do some trickery to make your USB Drives can be utilized as Data pool instead of just backup drive.

Not entirely sure how to check if its UASP compatable. They just have USB 3.0 and eSATA

Also would it be considered USB drives if i pass them through to truenas? wouldn't it just detect it as a regular hard drive?

So I want to make a NAS on my proxmox VM but since its a dell optiplex pc being reused, it doesn't have the internal space for the drives so I have to go external. I want to know if TrueNAS Core supports external drive bays like this one and this one. I just want to put the drives in, plug in my drives and run the TrueNAS os through a VM. Would that work or is there more to it? Would proxmox or truenas detect all drives through one cable?

So my home server is currently just an old Optiplex 7040 or something with an i7 6700 and 16GB of ram. I want to run a NAS off of it as I have this Buffalo Terastation with 4x 2TB drives running raid 5. The problem with the Terastation is that it doesn't have a cache drive so transfer speeds top out at 3.5 MBps and it only supports SMB 1. My original plan was just to buy some SATA to usb connectors and 3d Print the enclosure (which i can still do) but the problem is that there are 4 different power cables I need to plugin for each drive. Was wondering if there is some sort of PCB or storage bay that doesnt have a raid controller on it so I can plug it in through USB and do software raid through truenas or something.

So I'm setting up a new home network soon. I have my pfSense router, 1 16 port gigabit unmanaged switch and a 5 port unmanaged switch (will not need all ports, its just what I have), and 3 Engenius EAP1300 WAPs.

I want to setup my network so that there are 2 networks. 1 for all home devices and 1 for IoT/guest but the IoT/guest will be WiFi only on a seperate SSID. The WAPs I have, have an option for it to be a guest network and setup its own DHCP server for the guest network but I want to have the pfSense router controlling everything and not the WAPs. I want the DHCP server and firewall rules going through the pfSense router.

I was wondering how I could create a second subnet for the IoT/guest network and how to manage it all through the router. I would usually just do vlans but these are unmanaged switches. Am I asking too much and should I just go with the WAPs to do all the work?

Update to problem:

Used the beautiful cisco switch i salvaged to find out the ip address, regardless of all documentstion, was 192.168.200.4. Ive once again tried resetting the hardware, lights flickered and everything. Still on 192.168.200.4. Cant login to panel, admin/admin wont work

So like my last post about the MS225-48-HW Cisco switch I found from ewaste piles, I found 3 EnGenius EAP1300 indoor APs, now obviously they were in the ewaste meaning they could work or could not. I plugged them in with the right adapters and an ethernet connection, tried doing the way they instruct by plugging it into a PC ethernet cable and setting the ip address so you can connect to the AP on its default ip 192.168.1.1. I've tried that over and over again, even resetting back to default settings multiple times, and I still cannot connect to its ip address. I've tried plugging it into my router and seeing if it gets an ip address from DHCP, never does. Power light is on, lan connection light is on, 2.4ghz and 5ghz lights are on as well. Everything seems to be functional, I just cannot access its web panel.

Don't know what else to do at this point, I've run advanced ip scanner as well to see if its on a different IP and it isnt listed.

I created an account on meraki's website and found out it was unclaimed so I just claimed it and was able to use it. Not a bad find

So I work for an MSP, we have a basically dead ewaste pile. I pulled a Cisco Meraki MS225-48-HW from the pile to see if it worked. I plugged it in when I got home, LED light is white meaning it can connect to the meraki cloud and all ethernet ports work. I'm trying to get to some sort of dashboard but am completely confused. I have a console to USB cable that I know works because I've used it on other switches before and when connecting it to the management port, there are no lights and I can't connect to it through putty. I tried accessing its web client via ip which is currently 192.168.8.106, still nothing. I've used nmap to scan all ports, only one there is is 52 and that is closed.

I'm just at a loss right now on how to access this switch. I don't even know how to check if its claimed or not and I even reset to factory settings.

Was looking into getting a new mouse and saw the deathadder v2, its a $40 cheap mouse that seems good and has optical switches. Was wondering if the optical switches double click or not? I've heard people say their deathadder doubleclicks but dont specify if its the optical switches or the other regular mechanical switches for the side and middle mouse buttons

Long story short, have had my arctis 7s 2019 edition for around 5 years now, in recent, the wireless part of the headset has been kinda dying and dropping connection a lot, tried replacing usb dongle but it still happens, headset problem. Just about 10 minutes ago i take my headset off and my ear cup has fallen off, now i could just buy replacement ear muffs and call it a day but at this point I might as well buy a new headset. I absolutely love my Arctis 7s and honestly, wouldnt mind buying brand new ones, but I might as well try something new.

I'm looking for any headset recommendations with the following critera:

Around $100-150

WIRELESS!!!!

Decent/good bass

7.1 surround sound

Mic included (doesnt have to be the greatest but also not trash)

Thats about it, if I think of any more requirements ill update it but thats literally all I need. The last time I looked into headsets was when I was buying my current one and haven't kept up with anything since so I have no clue whats good and not.

2 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

That should be fine. From the latest LTT video  as well as the research I have done with Moca as long as its only 2 moca adapters you should get close if not all the related speed. 

so whatever my 2011 cable is, should do good speeds even though its really old?

4 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

He has Docsis Cable internet service. Is common around the world. We have 5 major providers in the US who provide that service and a large number of regional providers. Most likely in your area you guys were or are on some form of DSL and probably now moving to Fiber. Coax based internet has been around forever at this point however, We have had it since the early 2000s. 

 

Thats a benefit you get when you own your own home. Generally living with your folks or renting comes with restrictions. Also for some damn reason I have to remind people here that not everyone is mechanically inclined. I for one am not the guy you ask to do this type of work. Not everyone is comfortable with drilling holes and such. Especially if they lead to the outside of the home as that can lead to damage if not done right. 

So with that in mind, you think i should be fine if i just go from pc ethernet, to moca, through the line to the basement, back through a moca adapter to the router? It should support gigabit or no?

2 minutes ago, Madmaximus01 said:

Use old coax cable as a pull thru, attach ethernet cable to one end  of coax and pull it thru, bobs your uncle boom you now have ethernet cabling in an already existing hole. If your parents refuse this well...maybe it's time to move out. My house was exactly like that. Previous owners had coax cables run thru house for every room. I attached ethernet cabling to end of coax cables already run through house and just snaked the ethernet cabling thru existing holes, using the coax cabling as a guide.

The coax cable goes outside through the wall and is stapled to the outside wall

1 minute ago, Madmaximus01 said:

Sounds like your best solution is to just buy ethernet cables and go with your original idea, even though you already have a coax cable, your already having to come up with buying extra hardware for this or that thing for the coax to be a viable solution. When the simplest solution is buy some long runs of ethernet cable snake it thru house and be done. Instead of trying to muck around with this coax thing. 

i said this in my dupe post but not here i guess. This is my parents house, not mine. I cannot run new cables, I cannot drill holes in the wall. I have to work with what I got, which is powerline or coax

13 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

As long as the line does not have cable service going thru it. Meaning it goes from Moca adapter to Moca adapter with on the coax wire in-between you need no filter. However if it connects to a Splitter getting cable/internet signal then you do need a splitter. 

do moca filters come with the moca kits or do i have to buy them seperately?

7 hours ago, Donut417 said:

Looks like that’s RG6. Which is what you need. You will need a Moca filter on the main line coming in to your home from the cable co. This filter prevents Moca from exiting your home and reflects the signal back in to the home. You may need to replace that splitter with a Moca capable one. 

Well I am able to just disconnect the cable going from my room to the basement splitter. I can just have a direct connection from my pc to the router so I dont need a moca filter correct?

Still need help with this

I'm remaking this thread kind of as the last thread I made gave me absolutely 0 answers on what I needed and since LTT recently made a video on moca, maybe more people have info about it. I currently use powerline to get from my router to my pc which is from the basement to my room on the 2nd floor. Its better than wifi and I get around 100Mbps down but the problem is, my parents pay for gigabit and dont even use it fully. Now note this is my parents house as I am still in college, I cannot run new cables, I cannot drill holes, I have to work with what I have. This house was rigged with a bunch of coax cables back in 2011 by our isp at the time, not a clue who it was. I cannot find any info online about this coax cable except for someone selling them on amazon with no description. Here is the exact writing on the side of the cable in the quote below. There is a coax cable that is spooled up in the corner of my room that goes to a coax hub in the basement. I can obviously disconnect the coax cable as I dont use cable tv in my room to have a direct connection from my pc to the router. I don't know what my coax cable could support speed wise since its from 2011 although we do have gigabit internet through coax but the one connected to the router converts from the one below, a CATV to a CATVX which doesnt make sense as it would use the slowest speed one. I have no other info on my coax cable like ohm rating unless someone can find it online for me.

I could also honestly say screw it and just buy a moca adapter, test it to see if it works/gives better speeds, and if it doesnt, return it. But I don't want to do that.
 

Quote

PPC PERFECT FLEX 6 SERIES 18 AWG CATV, CL2, CL3, (ETL)us or CM c(ETL)us 3088178 •2011• 0938ft

8 hours ago, NastyFlytrap said:

If you're feeling brave, you could probably use the coax cable to pull ethernet into your walls lmao.

Just figure out where the holes/boxes are in the walls where you can pull the cable from, duct tape the ethernet to the end of the coaxial cable, and pull. 
If all goes well you'll pull the coax out of the wall, and the ethernet into the wall along with it.

We're talking about american houses made entirely of drywall right? If so it shouldnt be too hard. 
Pulling it into conduits in solid brick walls would be a fair bit more challenging, still not impossible, but then you'd really have to pull it piece by piece, corner by corner.

Cant pull the cable through with the coax as described before as the coax cable goes from the basement to the outside and is stapled to the outside wall and painted over.

21 hours ago, mariushm said:

There's also the issue of the coaxial cable being 50 ohm or 75 ohm ... the existing cable is most likely for old analogue tv, so the wrong impedance for digital data.

 

Is the coaxial cable loose in the walls, or is it locked in several places? If it's loose, you could just tie a steel wire in the basement at the end of the coaxial cable and then pull up the coaxial cable.

Now you have steel wire instead of coaxial cable, so now you can back in the basement and tie both ethernet and coax to the steel wire and then pull both up using the steel wire.

They make flat ethernet cable these days , you could wrap the flat ethernet cable around the coaxial cable or just use heatshrink or electrical tape to tape the flat cable along the coaxial cable length and you end up with just a thicker coaxial cable - if needed you can cut the ethernet connectors at both ends to make it easy to slide the thicker "coax-eth" cable through the walls, then you can replace the wall plate with coax with a wall plate with ethernet jack .

 

Example of flat ethernet cable (100ft) : https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/

 

example of wall plate (with keystone you plug connector in) : https://www.amazon.com/IBL-Keystone-Ethernet-Plate-Female/dp/B08K8XP26S/

You'll want one of these because those flat cables will have thinner stranded wires so you can't use the keystone connectors where you use a punch down tool on the solid core wires.

 

example of steel wire (100ft) : https://www.amazon.com/Ook-04527001297-50141-Galvanized-Multicolor/dp/B001EX1C2W/

 

I also checked the cable as its spooled up in my room. This is exactly whats written on the cable. Im assuming the 0938 ft part is part of the whole spool they bought as the run from the basement to my room should only be around 150 feet, not 938. I also looked at the coax going to my router (yes we are still using coax) and we have near gigabit speeds (supposedly, i havent tested it really) and the cable coming from the isp is a CATV cable as well which then right near the router, has a splitter which leads to a coax power and then to the router with a CATVX cable. I have no idea why that is, because I dont think CATV can just goto CATVX with some power.

Quote

PPC PERFECT FLEX 6 SERIES 18 AWG CATV, CL2, CL3, (ETL)us or CM c(ETL)us 3088178 •2011• 0938ft