Spaceman3600

This is an accompanying guide for our recent video trying out Pi-Hole.
 
Note: Image links will be coloured like this: https://google.ca 
 
 
Parts List:
Raspberry Pi (any model) We will be using a Raspberry Pi Zero (https://lmg.gg/8KV3n) - $5 You can optionally install Pi-Hole in a docker container, or inside a VM, but we will be assuming you are using a Raspi for the rest of this tutorial. Micro SD Card (2gb+, but you should probably just buy a 16GB card because they're so cheap) We'd recommend a cheap SanDisk card (https://lmg.gg/8KV3k) 2.5A Micro USB AC Power Supply You can get these really cheap on eBay, but we aren't making any promises about quality. AdaFruit has a solid one: https://lmg.gg/8KVm8 *Optional*: Micro USB to RJ45 Ethernet Adapter This is in case the RasPi you are using doesn't have an ethernet port or WiFi (if you're using the Pi Zero, you will need one of these) *Optional*: Other stuff that you might need: SD/uSD Card Reader (Unless your laptop, or you already has one) Ethernet Cable (Unless you're using WiFi, you will need one of these) Case for your Raspberry Pi Model (Nice to have to keep it protected, but cardboard also works) Heat sinks for your Raspberry Pi (Nice to have to keep it cool, also helpful if you want to overclock your Pi) A display connection for your Pi (Pi Zero's use Mini HDMI) (We will be doing a headless install, so this is not necessary)  
Stage 1 - OS Install/Setup:
Before we can install Pi-Hole or anything else really, we have to setup our operating system of choice: Raspbian Buster Lite (stretch also works) Download and unzip the "Raspbian Buster Lite" image from the Raspbian website: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/ Download and install balenaEtcher, our uSD card writer/burner of choice: https://www.balena.io/etcher/ Plug in your uSD card Launch balenaEtcher, select the Raspbian Buster Lite image, your uSD card, and then click Flash. (https://i.imgur.com/GMSZj8Z.png) If you're doing a headless install like us (no monitor/keyboard required), you'll need to enable SSH before booting up the Raspberry Pi Replug your uSD card to allow Windows to recognize the new Raspbian partition layout You should have a lettered drive pop up marked as "boot" (https://i.imgur.com/4ar0ih3.png) If you don't, ensure your uSD is being detected in Disk Management (https://i.imgur.com/ZPmyyz6.png) Then assign the partition a drive letter: https://lmg.gg/8KVm6 Create a file inside the "boot" folder called "ssh" with no extension (https://i.imgur.com/KDyB4nc.png) If you don't know how to make an extension-less file you can download it here: https://lmg.gg/8KVmb Plug your uSD card into the Raspberry Pi followed by networking, and then power. Since we're doing a headless install, we'll need to search for our raspberrypi's IP address so we can access it over SSH. If you know what you're doing, log in to your router's admin page and check the DHCP client/reservation list for "raspberrypi" If you don't know how to do the above, download Angry IP scanner and run it: https://lmg.gg/8KVmS Look for the hostname "raspberrypi", on that line the IP and MAC address of our Raspberry Pi will also be listed: 10.20.0.77 in our case (https://i.imgur.com/lK2ce0R.png) Now that we've found our Raspberry Pi's IP address + MAC Address, we need to assign it an INTERNAL/LOCAL static IP address. This process is going to vary wildly based on which router/DHCP server you use, so we'd recommend Googling your router's model name/number (can be found on the back) + "how to set static IP" (ex: "Netgear R7000 how to set static ip"). If you're willing and somewhat tech savvy, you might also be able to figure it out on your own. Start by navigating to your router's admin page. The IP for this is typically located on a sticker on the back of your ISP's provided router (along with the admin page's default username and password), but you can also find it by running the command "ipconfig" in command prompt on a Windows PC. Your router's IP will be listed after "default gateway" (https://i.imgur.com/S2Ndc0w.png) Log in to the admin page either with the Iogin credentials listed on the back of the router, or by googling the model number of the router along with "default password". Some routers use a randomly generated default password, so googling will not work for those. Once logged in, look for a tab labeled "DHCP Reservation", "Static IP Assignment", or something along those lines. (https://i.imgur.com/FeMjd4V.png) You may have to go to the Advanced menu to access this. (https://i.imgur.com/6l4kIqH.png) Enter the MAC address we grabbed earlier with Angry IP scanner, and then enter/select your desired static IP address (make sure you're using something not taken by another device on your network). (https://i.imgur.com/znUTbKv.png) Hit Apply (or whatever the equivalent is for your router)  Re-plug the power connection for your Raspberry Pi, to allow it to restart and fetch it's newly assigned IP. To access the Raspberry Pi over SSH we will need to download and connect to it with an SSH client Download, install and then launch the SSH client of your choice. We will be using PuTTY because it's simple, but any SSH client will do: https://lmg.gg/8KVmQ (https://i.imgur.com/POLV3i4.png) Enter the newly assigned static IP address of your Raspberry Pi into PuTTY, and click "Open" (https://i.imgur.com/BegMcKC.png) After it prompts you with "login as:" enter "pi" (https://i.imgur.com/jfULCu5.png) Then for password, enter "raspberry". You should now be logged in over SSH.  (https://i.imgur.com/Q058Sbw.png) Now that we're logged in over SSH, start by changing the default password, and updating the Raspberry Pi. To change the user password enter the command "passwd" and press enter. You'll then be prompted to enter the current password (this is "raspberry" so enter that) Then enter your desired new password To update the Raspberry Pi, run the command "sudo apt update" - this is going to update the package list to tell us if anything needs to be update. (https://i.imgur.com/ECpLG93.png) Then, to actually upgrade the packages now that the package manager knows which ones need updating, run "sudo apt upgrade -y". (https://i.imgur.com/EYfDhkC.png) Our Raspberry Pi is now updated, set to a secure password and ready to install Pi-Hole onto!  
Stage 2 - Pi-Hole Install/Setup (this is where the tutorial portion in the video starts)
With our RasPi's OS, internet, and SSH ready to go, we can now install Pi-Hole.  Copy the Pi-Hole install command from their website, paste it into the SSH client, and click Enter to run it: https://lmg.gg/8KVm9 (https://i.imgur.com/P20CP2I.png) The installer will spit out some status updates until you're brought to the configuration screen (https://i.imgur.com/t0DHzHo.png) Press Enter until you get to the "Choose An Interface" page. The default "eth0" interface for Ethernet users should be selected by default. Press Enter to continue. ("wlan0" should be selected if you're using WiFI - keep in mind WiFi installation is not supported in this tutorial, but if you have some decent Google-Fu you should be able to figure it out) On the next screen, select your upstream DNS provider. This is where requests will be forwarded if they're not blocked by Pi-Hole (ie. if they're not found in it's block/black lists). We will be using Google DNS, and if you don't know what this means, stick with that. Press Enter to continue. The following screen allows you to select which of the default block list's you'd like to use. We will leave these all on, but you can use your arrow keys and space bar to (de)select any of them as you wish. Press Enter to continue. Next up, it will ask you if which IP protocols you want to block ads over, leave this at the default unless you know what you're doing. Press Enter to continue. The next screen will list the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and the IP of your router, assuming you've set a static IP, just click Enter to continue. If you get a screen about an IP conflict, just ignore it and click Enter to continue. You'll then be asked about the web interface, web server, and logging modes. Leave these all at default by clicking Enter. After all that, Pi-Hole is going to do a bunch of stuff, and it might take a couple minutes so sit back until you're greeted with an "Installation Complete!" page. This will list the IP and password for the Pi-Hole web interface. Copy the IP into your browser, and log with the listed password. Huzzah! You now have a functioning Pi-Hole installation    
Stage 3 - Setting Up Pi-Hole to Run on Your Devices / Whole Network
To enable Pi-Hole on a device-by-device basis, you'll need to manually set the DNS IP address in your device settings.  For each of these, substitute the IP in the tutorial for the IP of your Raspberry Pi How to set DNS on an iPhone: https://lmg.gg/8KVmw How to set DNS on Android phones (your phone manufacturers skin may slightly vary): https://lmg.gg/8KVmh To enable Pi-Hole on a Router level, meaning it will work on all your devices automatically, you'll need to configure your router's DHCP server's default DNS settings. This process is going to vary wildly based on which router/DHCP server you use, so we'd recommend Googling your router's model name/number (can be found on the back) + "how to set DNS servers" (ex: "Netgear R7000 how to set DNS servers").  
Stage 4 - Using Pi-Hole + Common Whitelisting
To enable some common whitelisted false-positives run the command listed here: https://github.com/anudeepND/whitelist For some great info on the Pi-Hole web interface read the lower portion of this tutorial: https://www.smarthomebeginner.com/pi-hole-tutorial-whole-home-ad-blocking/#Configuring_Your_Router_8211_Whole_Home_Ad_Blocking 

For anyone who also cares about privacy I would recommend setting up DNS over HTTPS, that way all your requests are encrypted. You can find the official guide here. 

Also if you want to use your DNS server away from home you can follow this official guide here. But setting it up to have a VPN and DNS server there are some changes that we need to do that don't follow the guide. 
Under "installation", you can skip the install pi-hole part since you should already have installed pi-hole. (For more experienced linux users: the port of the openvpn server can be anything. But make sure the port isn't already in use or that your ISP blocks it when port forwarding. Can be handy to bypass port blocks by using port 433 or 80) Skip finding the IP under "Setup OpenVPN Server" and change `10.8.0.1` to the ip of your RPi(Raspberry Pi) which you already have if you followed Jake's guide. Before creating an user follow this: Run command: `openvpn --genkey --secret ta.key` Edit the config file and add this line: `tls-auth ta.key 0` 
(This adds an encryption layer between the client and the server, so some extra security) You can probably skip "Firewall Configuration" since Raspbian doesn't have a firewall pre-installed and you also don't have installed any Follow these parts of "Optional: Dual operation: LAN & VPN at the same time" Add this line to your `/etc/openvpn/server/server.conf`: `push "route 192.168.2.0 255.255.255.0"` but change `192.168.2.0` to your subnet which you can find in your ip, for example if your ip is: `192.168.1.43` you replace `192.168.2.0` with `192.168.1.0` and with `192.167.8.28` you replace it with `192.167.8.0`. But if your IP is for example `10.8.0.7` you'll probably need to replace the whole line with `push "route 10.8.0.0 255.255.0.0"`. Run this command: `pihole -a -i all` After this port forward `1194` or the port you decided to use on your router, you can find guides online.  Let me know if you find a mistake in this.

Some of you might have heard the new Newegg exclusive Corsair 570X comes in arctic white with a cable management hole in the power supply shroud for front I/O connections. Just today I got my very own 570X and noticed it had them too! So it seems this has been added to more recent versions of the regular 570X as well: it looks like Corsair is listening! I was trying to choose between this and the Enthoo Evolv tempered glass. Design is a lot more open and I think it's a lot prettier, and one of the big things the Evolv had going for it was the pass-through for the I/O and PCIe cables. Looks like I don't have to cut out one for myself now!
 

 
No word yet on a shroud cover. The screw holes are already there. I'm not bothered by the cables I can see, but I might cut an aluminum plate and paint it to cover things up at some point.
 
Other comments: spacing on top for 280mm radiators is 800% not enough, for anyone still wondering. When I was looking into it I saw a lot of uncertainty among users, or "I'm pretty sure". My ASUS X-99A II motherboard has fairly low RAM and heatsinks on the motherboard, and my rad/fans barely passed a fit check. However, when I added the CPU power cable, that all went out of the window, since that downwards motion was due to moving CPU power right on top of that central region.
 
Mounting a rad to the front is totally feasible, and looks nice. The SP120s aren't too bad. I have two RGB fan controllers on the case now... good times. My temperatures in this case are a few degrees above to my Air 540, where I had my radiator top-mounted. I'd say something like 4-5 on CPU and 5 on the GPU browsing the internet. No regrets on this case. It's gorgeous.

I think I got everything... if you have any questions, ask below
 
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The first step is to decide what you want your setup to be, as you'll need to know how many parts to order. There is a few different options, and once you've chosen, click on the parts list for your respective setup.
 
1. Single Camera w/o hub server
Parts list: Pros Least expensive setup Cons Lower attainable FPS/res 2. Single Camera w/ hub server - *RECOMMENDED*
Parts list: Pros allows for future expandability higher attainable FPS/res more reliable vs. no hub Cons costs more (you have to buy a second Raspi) 3. Multiple Cameras w/ hub server - *RECOMMENDED*
Parts list: Pros higher attainable FPS/res more reliable vs. no hub Cons cost (lol, 2 cameras + hub is still cheaper than a Nest cam) 4. Multiple cameras w/ a desktop computer as a hub
This is a setup that you can build, but I haven't investigated it yet, so stay tuned on this.  
My recommendation is to have a hub server regardless of the number of cameras to ensure the best possible image quality, but if your budget doesn't permit, a single camera w/o a hub server can still work decently.
 
 
Click on the header for your desired setup to see the actual DIY steps.

Samsung has today unveiled their new 30TB 2.5" SSD (PM1643).
It's a SAS Drive with read speeds of 2100MB/s and write speed of 1700MB/s.
 
It's gonna cost you a penny or two and it will be perfect for your new NAS.
 
It's great that we finally get to see large SSD's, sadly it will take time for them to viable options instead of using HDD's for normal users.
 

 
Sources:
https://www.sweclockers.com/nyhet/25266-samsung-avtacker-ssd-enhet-med-30-tb-lagringsutrymme
https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2018/2/20/17031256/worlds-largest-ssd-drive-samsung-30-terabyte-pm1643
http://www.zdnet.com/article/samsung-launches-30-72-terabyte-sas-ssd/
https://www.techpowerup.com/241687/samsung-begins-mass-production-of-30-72-terabyte-pm1643-ssd

Yea I saw that that arm was well rated but I wanted to see if people had any experiences with my same setup so thanks for the info!

I bought this one in august when i got my AT2035, you don't get much better than that until you get this one which is 100$ which is complete overkill. I do HIGHLY recommend getting this shockmount as its WAY higher quality and includes an integrated pop filter! 

So I am getting a AT2035 and it comes with a shock mount so i don't need one and I want to have the arm connect ideally to my desk or my monitor arm. Any suggestions and experiences would really help me since there are so many different options.

The AT2035 has a switchable low frequency rolloff at 80Hz,a switchable -10dB pad, better signal/noise ratio, better sensitivity, a shock mount, and a larger diaphragm.
 
What I'd do is listen to audio samples from both (from the same source is the best idea), then look at the features and go from there.
 
I personally have the AT2020USB, it's a fantastic microphone, though I wish I got the XLR version and an audio interface instead.

I would like to inform you first that both of those are XLR which means you need something to provide phantom power
The 2035 has a cleaner high end and a nicer high pass filter but not worth the extra cash

A popular YouTuber named Logan Paul ended up filming a dead body found in suicide forest in japan.
 
http://nymag.com/selectall/2018/01/logan-paul-suicide-forest-video-youtube.html
 
My thoughts?  I initially thought that his intentions may have been indeed well.  But the more that I thought about it, the more that I ended up realizing the whole thing was pretty disrespectful.
 
First off, filming a dead body isn't cool, and while I realize that he may have wanted "proof", so someone can't call him a liar, that's not an adequate reason.
Second, why did he go to suicide forest in the first place?  To talk about the "haunted" aspects of it?  People have died there, I find that pretty distasteful in the first place.
Third, if he wanted to raise suicide awareness, he could have done it in a much better way.  Such as talking about his experiences with the incident while in his hotel room.
Fourth, the video was edited, this means that it wasn't a stupid "spur of the moment" situation.  There was plenty of time to go "hey, this might not be a good idea".
 
While I have no doubt that many are going to criticize him for being goofy in the situation, humor is a coping mechanism, one that I myself use.  So I won't give him shit for that.
 
While I am not going to say that this was for views, I am not going to rule that possibility out.
The man is either a complete idiot or a piece of shit.  While I will reserve judgement, I am probably in the minority here.
 
My biggest worry is that this whole mess will cause another adpocalypses to happen.
Those that have influence such as him has to be aware with the consequences of their actions, not only for themselves, but for everyone else.
 
Also, a YouTuber has re uploaded the video, with some cuts.
I'm not going to post the video here, but the YouTuber's name is Get Exposed for all of you who are wanting to see the video.

I don’t think this is tech news but nonetheless both Logan and his baby brother Jake Paul are both jerks and I can’t fathom as to why young people like them so much. To any parents with children watching these people, tell your children why they shouldn’t watch them and if they even try watching in secret, take your kid’s phone, tablet and computer and lock their gadgets away. Remember as a parent, it’s your house hence your rules. You pay the electricity and internet and you have the right to take away their gadgets or anything when they’re misbehaving or following a bad influence person. 
 
As for the video, I haven’t seen it as it was taken down other than a few clips from those who made commentaries about it and it shows that aside from the fact that Logan stole a music video, he’s a fame whore. And to kids in this forum who are fans of Logan Paul, suck it up if your parents took away your phone.

I have 3 spare Quadro FX 3800 what should I do with them?