Jump to content

Kidbest100

Member
  • Posts

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Biography
    Hey there! My names Nick.

  • Member title
    Junior Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 8700K @ 4.5 GHz
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming LGA1151
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Vengeance 3000MHZ
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 980 Superclocked
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass
  • Storage
    N/A
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova 750 G2
  • Display(s)
    Benq 1080P 144hz 1ms
  • Cooling
    Corsair H115i
  • Keyboard
    Microsoft P.O.S
  • Mouse
    Razer Deathadder Elite
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 590 Special Edition

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Kidbest100's Achievements

  1. TL:DR I think my AM4 CPU socket might be broken. Please check the attachments to see pictures and a short video, and let me know if you think this is normal behavior for these sockets, or if you think it's broken. I've been helping a friend of mine build a PC. Last night we got it all together, but it wouldn't POST. Long story short and many hours of troubleshooting later, I ended up taking it all apart today down to the barebones. Motherboard, CPU, 1 stick of RAM, PSU plugged in with just the 24Pin and both CPU power cables for good measure, nothing else is plugged in. When I power on the PC, I don't get anything displayed on the screen. Doesn't POST or get to the BIOS. All I get is a diagnostic light on the side of the board labelled "CPU", and it means exactly what you'd think it means (Motherboard manual says the code means CPU is not detected.) If I plug an HDMI into the motherboard it goes to the "VGA" light instead, and the manual says this means a CPU device isn't detected. Since it's onboard graphics, that'd essentially mean the same thing as the CPU code in this case. I decided to try and take out the CPU and check for bent pins or any damage to the socket. When I went to lift the CPU retention arm, I noticed it felt "stuck" about 90% of the way up, and the CPU wasn't moving at all like they usually do when you lift the arm. Normally you lift the arm, and the CPU slowly moves / follows in the direction of the arm as the plastic socket slides backwards with it, but the socket in my motherboard doesn't move nearly at all when I do this. Once I get 90% of the way up, the retention arm requires a large amount of force to move further, and then it eventually lurches with a very loud POP noise. I've attached a video showing this. Worrying the socket had somehow damaged the CPU, I removed it and checked for bent pins but luckily found none. This popping didn't damage the CPU at all, so I put it back in and very gently lowered the arm. Going down, the arm requires noticeably less force than other AM4 sockets I've installed CPUs into in the past, and it makes another strange (quieter) scratching noise while lowered. I also noticed that the socket doesn't seem to close all the way. If you check the pictures I've attached, I highlight what the socket looks like both open and closed, with a CPU installed and without. You can see the socket seems to move downwards and close completely with no CPU installed, but with one installed the socket doesn't seem to close all the way and there is a noticeable lip of plastic hanging out that is usually covered when the socket is closed without a CPU. I've also attached a picture "Closed Difference.png" that shows this lip more clearly. I've tried taking the CPU out and putting it back in upwards of 15 times now, each time trying to gently push the plastic socket in different directions with my finger, thinking the issue is the CPU pins aren't making contact with the pads under the socket cover. Each time I get the same issue, where it doesn't POST and the red CPU (sometimes VGA when an HDMI is plugged in) light turns on the board. I've also left the PC powered on for up to 10 minutes with the heatsink on it, then quickly powered down and removed the heatsink. It's basically stone cold, as if the CPU wasn't kicking out any heat at all because it's not powered. I'm hoping someone else who has an AM4 board can lend their insight here and let me know if they have the same experience with this socket, or if after all these hours of troubleshooting I'm just going crazy and seeing problems where there are none and my issue actually lies somewhere else. For the sake of following the posting rules, I'll post the specs and troubleshooting steps I've followed below. Any input at all would be appreciated. Thank you! SPECS: CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X RAM: 32GB GSkill Ripjaws V DDR4 3200MHz Mobo: MSI MPG AM4 x570 GAMING PLUS PSU: Corsair RM750x GPU: None (yet) Troubleshooting: - Unplugged / replugged all power cables from both motherboard and PSU side - Tried swapping to a spare PSU, and obviously used the proper cables for the different PSU - Tried spare RAM (1 stick DDR4) and also tried ALL sticks in ALL DIMM slots - Plugged in discrete GPU to bypass any potential onboard graphics issues. Same result. - Removed everything from the case, and unplugged anything unnecessary to reach POST. Only thing plugged in was motherboard, CPU, 1 stick RAM, 24PIN ATX and the CPU power cables. Same result, no POST. - Checked CPU for bent / broken pins - Used flashlight to check socket pads for damage, I can see gold in each hole. - Checked board for signs of damage (leaking / expanded caps, residue, etc) looks clean and new. 1452813811_BrokenSocket.mp4
  2. I'm trying to mine LTC, but everytime I load up CGminer, or any other miner as a matter of fact, it just hangs there and does nothing. On CG Miner it says connecting forever, and then never actually starts mining...
  3. wtf dude, my schools PC's run Pentium 4's with like 2 gigs of ddr2 if you're lucky
  4. I was thinking of names a while back as well, I settled for one (not this one) after I joined the forum so obviously kidbest100 isn't it.. But heres some of my ideas I had. (I like slightly humorous ones) SandWichPilot AirBufallo UraniumWizard MagicMatress BreadCrustBandit IrradiatedUnicorn I know most people probably wont like those but it was just a quick 5 minute thinking spree
  5. I have been having the exact same issue lately. It only seems to happen in games though. I have heard it cut out just as there is large explosions, or even just randomly when theres really not anything loud going on.
  6. haha, my apologies, I meant to say 1.18 or 1.19. My actual voltage, I just checked is set at 1.175
  7. So I built my new rig a few months back. It was working completely fine, but occasionally my screen would freeze up and go black. I re-did all my drivers and that seemed to fix the issue for the most part. Since then, I've downloaded my latest graphics drivers and all that, and have been keeping up to date with all of the others. However, it seems that lately, (today especially) the problems have been getting worse. What happens is that I'll be playing a game, (It seems to only really happen when playing games) and my screen will either go black, and have the game still running in the background, and my monitor will display the big white "ASUS DVI" message in the top left and after a few econds or so it will return to my game. Or my screen will go OUT of the game, and to my desktop, but instead of seeing the desktop, everything is white and all I can see is the bottom navigation bar in windows. I can't move my mouse, and I can't alt-tab back into the game. So, running windows 8.1, I just hit CTR ALT DELETE and then sign out, and sign back in to my PC which solves the issue. However it's been happening very frequently today, I've counted it happening 8 times in the past 2 hours. In case you're wondering, my specs are as follows: (And yes, these problems were happening before I overclocked my graphics card and CPU, but not as frequently) i5 4670K @ 4.4 GHz, somewhere between 1.8 and 1.9 volts, cant remember. ( Cooled by CM Hyper 212+ ) 8 gigs Corsair vengeance 1600Mhz MSI Z87 G43 Asus Radeon R9 280X DCUII TOP @ 1.1 GHz Has anyone else had this issue before?
  8. I managed to pick up my ASUS 280x DCUII TOP edition for the same price as that on NCIX with free shipping
  9. I've been stuck on the same issue for a few weeks now, I can't get my CGminer to work, as it crashes right away, and I can't find help anywhere... However, I think it would be worth it if you could make everything else in the system very low power, and find a way to properly cool those volcanoes.
  10. Picked one of these up for my rig, free shipping depending on your area. http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=25350DR6011&vpn=WD20EZRX&manufacture=Western%20Digital%20WD
  11. I personally use "DirectCanada" They give free shipping to certain places in Canada, which I'm eligible for, which allowed me to get more money invested into the actual hardware of my rig I have right now, instead of actually getting it here. Never really had a problem with them, and I've ordered quite a few things from them, also they have lower prices than NCIX on a lot of things.
  12. Yeah I know thats pretty much BS. No GPU running at 96 degrees is going to last as long as one running at 70 That's why I want to try and figure out if its my case causing the heat problems, or what exactly is going on.
  13. My ambient temps are actually pretty high, you're right. I live in Canada, and and on west coast, so its fairly cold here, and that's why I've got a woodstove in the house to keep things warm, almost too warm. My temperature in my house right now is about 25 degrees Celcius.
  14. Hey guys, so I just built a rig a few weeks back, with a 4670K, and an Asus Radeon R9 280X DCUII TOP. I'm playing Far Cry 3, and running ASUS GPU Tweak, and it says that my card is running at up to 86 degrees at times. My case is the Bitfenix Ronin, and I knew this wasn't such a great Airflow-oriented case, so I run the fans it comes with at minimum 75% constantly, and then stuck another third fan in the bottom, also at 75%, and they are pumping a good amount of air from what I can tell. Is this acceptable for the card? I have seen other reviews of the same model and they all said their card never went over about 70 degrees, while mine is destroying Far Cry 3 at max settings, and pumping up to 86 degrees. Is that a normal temp?
×