Uptivuptiz

If any metal touches the exposed copper, it could become a problem, but other than that I think it'll be fine. I will mention that if the motherboard dies later down the line and you RMA it, it might be rejected due to the exposed copper. ASUS tends to sometimes go to the extreme with this. What motherboard do you have?

If you have a computer repair shop near you, maybe you could reaching out to them. Or even try contacting the place you bought the parts from.

It could be that the BIOS on the motherboard has not been updated from the factory to support 5000 series Ryzen. If you have access to a 3000 series CPU you could try and update the BIOS.

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GTE V2 Black should do nicely. Easy to mount and cheap and fits the requirements you set

This is most likely a motherboard issue. The clicking you hear from the PSU is totally normal as its just the sound it makes when it turns on the main power rails. If you have a spare motherboard to test with try that. If not, see if there's a PC repair shop near you that is willing to take in the system to test it.

Update to whoever may stumble upon this post in the future: After many hours of banging my head against the wall I tried removing the CableMod extensions I have for the 24 pin and 3 GPU 8 pin connectors. The issue has not appeared since this change. This was about a months ago. I might just have semi defective extensions installed or maybe the extentions entroduces a small form of resistance that causes instability. Whatever the case may be, the issue is now gone and I'm a happy camper.

The drive is under the headspreader on the motherboard. I made sure the film was removed during installation and was careful not to break the thermal pad when swapping the SSD.

Hello This might be a though one to crack. I have been having this weird issue for months now and have been unable to figure out what causes it nor what the solution is. I am using an M.2 to store games on (F: drive), but sometimes when playing games that are on the SSD the game just crashes. When trying to launch the game afterwards I just get the "Install" button in the game launcher as if the game never was installed. Accessing the files on the drive stops working too. File explorer let's me access some surface level folders but if I go too deep in the file tree I get an error (see spoiler tag): Looking in the Event Viewer shows me that there is a ton of warnings about an error was detected during a paging operation (image in spoiler). Now comes the weird part. Whenever the system is restarted the drive works fine until this issue randomly appears once more. Games that causes issues (along with others I probably have forgotten): Tom Clancy's The Division 2 Genshin Impact Beat Saber Things I've tried to solve this issue: Update BIOS to newest version. Swap the SSD for another known good. Clear CMOS. Change what M.2 slot the SSD is connected to. I am going to attact an Event Viewer file if you want to see the errors in more detail (had to zip it otherwise file was too big):M2 is going bananas.zip At this point I'm fearing that the moutherboard is semi-defective. What I would like to know, is whether this is Windows just being Windows or something hardware related. Specs list: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X Gigabyte X570 AORUS MASTER (rev 1.2) Corsair Vengence Pro RGB 32GB (4x8GB) 3600MHz ASUS GeForce RTX 3090 ROG Strix OC SanDisk® Z400s 250GB (C: drive) Western Digital WD8001FZBX 8TB (D: drive) Micron RealSSD C400 256GB (E: drive) Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB (F: drive/game drive) Corsair HX1000i 80+ Platinum

It really depends on what you wanna test. Heat output, performance, stability, etc.

Disabling Fast Startup can also be "emulated" if you hold down shift while pressing Shutdown in the start menu. Then you don't have to jump into Control Panel. Convenient knowledge for testing EDIT: If you press Restart even with Fast Startup enabled, the system will do a full shutdown as if Fast Startup is disabled. Fast Startup only applies when the machine has been shut down and not restarted.

Hello and welcome to the forum. I have a couple of questions: When setting up Windows after the reinstall, did you just log in with you MS account? What version of Windows is this (10 Home, 11 Pro, etc.)? Since you have a clean install of Windows, you could try reinstalling again to see if that fixes the issue.

Hello and welcome to the forum. It all really depends on what you want to do with the machine (gaming, video editing, etc). Please list some of the most demanding programs or games you use on it and we can take it from there.

650 watts should be fine for this. As for what to buy you can take a look at our PSU tier list:

I'd recommend the NH-U12A because is delivers the same performance while being smaller. This is nice because it gives more flexibility in terms of case compatibility.

Hi there, welcome to the forum! I don't suppose you remember the error code it gave you when it BSOD'ed? Also what motherboard do you have? In any case it never hurts to clear the CMOS to see if that fixes anything. See how to do so here. If that doesn't fix it, the drive might be dead and you need to RMA it.

If you plan on using Windows 11 I'd recommend option 1. My reason for this is that the Intel CPU in that system is not fully supported by the scheduler in Windows 10. Personally, I would go with option 2 as I'm gonna run Windows 10 until it reaches EOL, plus I'm a bit of an AMD shill at the moment (sometimes to my own dismay). Another thing you should consider when choosing is the warranty on the systems. Let's say something in option 1 breaks. What is the warranty on that machine? Option 2 is a better option in that case since (hopefully) the store that build it for you should offer warranty on the entire machine and if something breaks you can just drop it off with them so they can fix it for you.

To quote the documentation: And yes, the command you want to run is mbr2gpt /convert /disk:INSERT_NUMBER You can figure out the drive number by using diskpart with this command: list disk

To convert a MBR disk to GPT you can use a tool called MBR2GPT that is made by Microsoft. This is a command line tool though, so if you want something easier to use I recommend downloading Minitool Partition Wizard and following their guide.

Please provide your system specs. Try clearing the CMOS. If this doesn't solve it try and disconnect all drives and boot again. Then add one drive at a time, making sure to reboot each time.

It's totally safe to replace the battery as long as it's the correct type. Make sure to get a CR2032 battery that is Lithium based. Image:

Sounds like a CMOS battery issue, although since the motherboard is still kinda new I feel it's unlikely. Anyway, a CMOS battery replacement is cheap so I'd recommend you start with that. If you continue having problems Try updating the BIOS (the version you currently have installed is not the newest). If the problem persists even after that, your safest bet is to RMA the board and get a new one.

As far as I understand there should not be only 4 pins there and certainly not combined like this. There should be 6 pins. Although I'm not an expert in this field. I just looked at the pinout on Google, so I could be wrong. That said, I did find this pinout that would suggest that the thing you see on your SSD is not a mistake as the 3, 3.3 volt pins (pin 70, 72 and 74) are combined. See the picture I got from Anandtech:

Ok. Then try removing all USB devices (other than keyboard and mouse) and see if the problem is fixed. If this fixes it, try adding each device one by one while testing in between to see which device is causing the issue.