iostermann

So I went and excavated the lump and it heres what I got: Some of the paint from the rad came off with it and there is more between the fins on the side of the pipe that I couldn't get to. Everything I could get at inside the fins was definitely wet though... I'm thinking there might have been some tiny freak leak on the inside edge of the tube that dried once it got to the surface of the rad

I have an old Corsair H110 that's been happily chugging along for probably around 7 years now. Only issues have been a fan's bering becoming really noisy and slow. Today I was doing a long overdue cleaning of the dust filter when I spotted a scale mass on one of the radiator tubes: My first guesses were that it's a tiny leak in the rad that bubbled up and dried a few times. Do y'all agree with my assessment? I'm wanted to check with someone in case I'm right because I don't want to reopen a leak by accidentally knocking it off.

It's the first time I think we've ever heard a non-staged display of pure pain from Linus

I was under the assumption that read speeds for mirroring were about 2n since it reads from both mirrors, is this different for Storage Spaces?

Thanks for the input, and in my defense, they have twice the power on count and 45,000 hours compared to 18,000.

So when I built my PC some years ago, I got a pair of WD Blues 1TB to run in RAID 1. They worked fine for a while until I acquired a pair of 1TB WD Blacks and was trying to figure out my best optimization. The blacks were only SATA2, the blues were SATA3, and my mobo only has two SATA3 ports. One of the SATA3 ports was taken up by an SSD at that time. My eventual optimization was a RAID 10 array with a black and a blue in each mirror as I trusted the blacks less. This gave my 2TB and was fine until recently. I decided to go ahead and get a 4TB Seagate IronWolf NAS drive in order to start a switch to a more nas oriented machine in my desktop for college as my storage requirements increase. This brings me to my current conundrum. What's my new optimization for storage space and redundancy as well as transferring the data? My current idea is to copy the RAID 10 array to the single 4TB disk to keep data. Then I would nuke the RAID10 and switch it to RAID0 to make a 4TB volume at SATA2 in order to not bottleneck the the SATA3 drive. I would then mirror the RAID0 volume to the IronWolf for a pseudo RAID10 setup with 4TB usable. This would leave me with still being protected in the case of a single drive failure without succumbing to the write performance tank in firmware RAID5. Any thoughts or ideas are welcome, Thanks!

I would try scraping as much off as you can and then using vegetable oil to soak in and dissolve the remaining wax. Then you can clean up the vegetable oil with soap and water. Failing that, and depending on the finish of the laptop, you could try using methylated spirits or gasoline to dissolve it but they might harm the finish on the laptop.

It depends on the component. For a motherboard usually you have to call Microsoft and have it reactivated for that board. For things like GPU, PSU, RAM, or even CPU you'll usually have not trouble at all as long as you get the drivers updated.

Make sure that the monitor cable is plugged into the 480 and not your motherboard

Ivy Bridge with the snot overclocked out of it has been going strong for about 3 years now, not quite that vintage, but I love it to death.

From a user experience standpoint not just a hardware life one, It'll live as long as you can stand the performance compared to the shiny new stuff. I guess an SSD might have a lifespan depending on the model and the quality as they will get used up over time, but that's not usually something to worry about.

First off I'd try using Display Driver Uninstaller to wipe all the old drivers as the Nvidia ones may still be present and posing problems. After that do a fresh driver install. Or even before that, is the power connector plugged into the 480? Depending on the model of 750ti He might not have needed one before.

If you're going the Noctua Route, budget permitting I'd go with nf f12 in the front and nf a14 in the rear.

Looks alright to me

In theory you can, but the cost of the connectors, pins, wire, and crimper needed to do it right are significantly more than just buying one.