carzacc

My Xornet II used to track perfectly on my desk, but now it doesn't track anymore on it and it doesn't track at all on paper, it does track well on my mousepad but I feel like it might not be as good as it originally was. Can it be because I've somehow damaged the sensor, can it be dust or maybe something else entirely?

Unplug the Windows HDD, boot off USB selecting the right option in the boot menu (UEFI boot vs BIOS/legacy boot) and use gparted to create a partition table that is the same as the one on the HDD(GPT or MBR) and when installing,PLEASE! Use manual partitioning so you know what's happening, create a relatively small root partition(/) and a much bigger /home partition.

That's not the point, it's more to do with how these ASUS motherboards behave when I do that, I know HOW to do what I want to do,I don't know if I should

I want to make my CPU run cooler to allow foe even lower fan speeds than I already run, my motherboard BIOS allows me to change the multiplier but not the CPU voltage. There's also a target TDP setting but it seems totally useless as it made no change in load clockspeed, voltage or temperatures and it seemed to improve my score (c-ray test in the phoronix test suite on Linux) by approximately 0.003%-0.004% when going from Auto to 45W (Auto to 60W had an even more marginal improvement), would it make sense to bring the clockspeed down and hope the voltage does the same?

As I said, I've never had frequent BSOD's on my personal computer since I had a windows 7 laptop that I used to get a ton of BSOD's since it was new, but I've noticed a ton of BSOD's in the last month or so on laptops and other low-powered computers

Today I saw two different computers running Windows 10 bluescreen in totally different situations, neither of them is mine and they're two of the three computers I've used today. It's just a coincidence, but it seems like lately windows has been really unstable, I haven't used it that much on my computer, but I've seen PC's BSOD way too many times, I really believe that with 10 Microsoft really doesn't pay enough attention to testing their OS (and a few years ago the video that Barnacules Nerdgasm made explaining how and why he got laid off by Microsoft confirms my theory), I've had issues with it since I upgraded and I know plenty of people that have had issues, this is good in part because the year of Linux on the desktop might actually become reality one day but it might steer people towards Mac OS

I think this isn't too bad for the price https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16817151072 The s12ii aren't that bad compared especially to that EVGA

I know that cheap mice branded as gaming mice are terrible, but it doesn't mean that every mouse under $20 is equally unusable for gaming purposes, the same way no PC under $300 with all new parts is good for gaming but there sure is a difference between the worst and the best

I don't want a "proper gaming mouse" I want the product that is the closest to a proper gaming mouse for that price

I know there aren't any good gaming mice under $20, but what's the best available? I hate high DPI mice, 400 and 800 would be great I won't buy any laser mouse because I don't like acceleration, and there's no way I'll buy a wireless mouse because the only wireless mice I've tried had horrible input lag I don't care about backlighting at all I use 1.2@800DPI in CS:GO and it's the most "mouse-demanding" game I play and I play it quite a lot, therefore malfunctioning speeds are a concern to me but obviously I can't pretend too much for that price. Around the €30 area, would the G100s be the best choice? I'm trying to see all the options I have since the cheap mouse I was using is broken

It's fine, I'm just worried about the CapXon's on the secondary of the PSU getting a bit more of their - already short - lifespan lost than normal

It has, I got a spark and a shutdown

For anyone wondering, the connector was from a molex to 3pin adapter connected to the PSU

I guess I have to say Yes

You should have a multimeter anywhere near a 3pin fan connector only if you have steady hands and are not really dumb. Source: personal experience P.S.: Thank god PSU's have SCP (and mine is multi-rail too) so that dumb people don't blow out their computers, but just see little sparks that remind them of how dumb they are. P.P.S.: Does it actually harm anything in any way that matters to be dumb just once?