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royalba94

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  • Content Count

    128
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About royalba94

  • Title
    Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

System

  • CPU
    i7 5820k
  • Motherboard
    Asrock Fatal1ty X99 Killer pro/3.1
  • RAM
    64gb G.skill Ripjaws V DDR4 3000
  • GPU
    Zotac 980ti AMP! Extreme
  • Case
    Caselabs SMA8
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 Pro 512gb (boot) 2x intel 240gb RAID 0 (scratch disk/games) 2tb Seagate Barracuda (everything else)
  • PSU
    EVGA 1200 P2
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator X34
  • Cooling
    EK Predator 360
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Strake RGB w/MX Brown
  • Mouse
    Roccat Nyth
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

1,148 profile views
  1. Cool, Thanks! So no issues using different types of devices in it? That was my main concern.
  2. Anybody have experience using one of these M.2 M-key to PCIe x4 adapters? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE8G67X8704&cm_re=M.2_Key_M_to_PCIe_x4_Extender_Cable_Adapter--9SIAE8G67X8704--Product https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC5C70U2513&cm_re=m.2_x4_pcie_adapter--9SIAC5C70U2513--Product My hope is that I could use something like this to add another RAID/HBA/10G card to my mobo as it is mostly out of slots (only remaining are an x1 and a disabled x8) Any tricks to getting them working? Thanks! P.S. I looked at the other sub-forums but didn't really find one that seemed to fit this question, sorry if I'm wrong
  3. Rough You'll probably be pretty happy with the Ultrawide that you listed, esp. since it's got the higher refresh rate and freesync which will be nice for gaming since your card can take advantage of them
  4. Based on those 3 choices personally I'd probably go for the 32in 4K one. BUT having said that I would definitely recommend looking into a 3440x1440 34"+ ultrawide - I've got the Acer x34 myself and I love it if there isn't a higher resolution ultrawide in your price range (seems like LG might have some options) then since it's mainly gaming it'd be worth considering the ultrawide - personally I prefer a bit denser PPI on my monitors tho.
  5. i'm interested to see what other people say about this as well as I have similar questions (only mine's an i7 960 w/12gb ram lol) As for the network card, a transfer speed of 10MB/s (mega-byte) in windows works out to about 80Mb/s (mega-bit) so sounds about right for the speeds you'd be getting using an old 100Mb/s NIC. Assuming your switches/router aren't a bottleneck then I believe getting a 1Gb/s NIC would help increase the transfer speeds. in ideal situations it'd be close to a 10x increase in transfer speed (10MB/s to 100MB/s) but that depends on if you have any other bottlenecks. Hopefully that helps!
  6. Bought a few 4k monitors at 23.6in size (Acer K242HQKbmjdp) a few years ago - promised myself I'd never do that again because the lots of programs don't support scaling properly or at all and the ones that don't scale at all are a royal pain to use since they end up so small. And not to mention that setting the resolution to 1080p on the monitors resulted in a somewhat blurry picture that was almost more annoying. So that's probably why there isn't more of them - 1440p at 24in is as dense as I'll go for desktop monitors
  7. The Heaphone amp says that it is powered though so shouldn't it work? if it doesn't then maybe an easy fix would be a portable headphone amp and an adapter. Adapter (needs to be this type, not the ones for separating mic and headphone): https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Splitter-combining-sources/dp/B00EA8QUTS/ Portable amp: https://www.amazon.com/A1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B01LYYKP29/ As for 1/4in to 3.5mm adapters one pack of these will have it sorted for both units: https://www.amazon.com/VizGiz-Converter-Amplifier-Headphone-Earphones/dp/B077DTZ5T5/ Or if he needs more cables anyway then maybe a few of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35/ Either way I'll be interested to see what @FRNND_P works out
  8. Sounds like the boot partition/section on the drive got corrupted to me - has happened a few times when I'm building systems and the only fix I've done is a new windows install/clone. If you have data (documents etc.) you want to keep from it I'd plug it into another computer and copy it off to another drive first and then do a full clean install just for completeness sake. Good luck!
  9. I've been happy with my Cherry brown Strafe RGB (the OG one, not v2) esp. after I added some dampening O-rings to further reduce the noise. Only negative about it is that the included "special" WASD and moba keys grey plastic comes off the caps sometimes which is a bit inconvenient in the middle of a match - normal keys are still holding up well tho
  10. Out of AM4 vs 2066 I'd definitely go 2066 in your case as there are more PCIe lanes and everything. I see no problem running dual channel and then adding a couple more sticks later on. yes - Depends on the timings, you want low CAS latency combined with high MHz, a lot of the time the "faster" sets will have higher MHz but also higher CAS latency which essentially makes them the same speed as "slower" MHz sets with lower latecy. back when I got my ram I settled for DDR4 3000 with CL14 as the best speed for the money - You'll probably be fine with 32GB unless your audio application uses a lot of RAM. If you're looking at a high end board and want to use so many PCIe devices then I'd actually steer you towards a board like the ASUS X299 WS SAGE since it's got 7x PCIe slots which you could use later on if you did end up watercooling the RAID and GPU to make them single-slot. it also has a Thunderbolt header if you want to add a Thunderbolt add-in card. (it does have one type-c port like your current mobo - it's USB 3.1 gen2 like yours. I you most likely have no use for actual thunderbolt ports currently) Also using this board you for the most part won't have to worry about things like SATA ports being disabled because of the onboard PLX chip. I'd still recommend getting a 44-lane CPU tho eventually. I've loved having an NVME drive as my OS drive so I'd go for the NVME drives. I'd probably keep the RAID card though and still use those other drives for a quick scratch drive in adobe or something tho. I agree. However some brief research into the programs he'll be using (thx to Puget Systems) they do tend to favor higher frequency/IPC rather than just more cores so he might actually benefit more from X299 for the faster speeds. As Sakkura mentioned there is not Thunderbolt currently available on TR4 but I don't think that would be a big deal as he's likely not using it currently (his current mobo doesn't have it)
  11. Looks like there is a hotkey for enabling/disabling the Live commentary (CTRL+L) as well as one for mute/unmute (CTRL+M) so most likely you'd be able to set up a Macro for that. If you have an android phone (even just an extra with wifi) there is a cool and free software called DeckBoard that you can setup macros in - a lot like the Stream Deck Another good and free tool is VoiceMeeter Banana which you can set a noise gate and other stuff for your mic input (before it goes to the elgato software) which will help with the background noise as well (and you can set the Push-to-talk in it) If you need links to setup vids on them or have questions I should be able to at least point you in the right direction if not answer myself
  12. You know I was gonna say a bunch of stuff but I think you've got the solution already The Mixer will be for the headphones and the Micro-Amp should work for the Mic There are some other ways you can do this but I think this is the most elegant hardware solution. If the three devices are all PCs then you could use some cool (and free) software but there would be setup time and if you run into issues it would probably be worth the $50 for the reliability of a hardware solution.
  13. Streaming direct from the PS4 or via a computer? If computer which software?
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