redteam4ever

I'm pretty sure that this is not the right platform for those kinds of questions Yeah, but then you have much better options... I have been thinking about cutting a hole in my laptop for a permanently attached USB fingerprint reader for a long time but I can't find a free spot and would have to figure out a way to get another USB port since I only have two (hint: mini PCIe).

No, Windows Hello needs an IR camera to work. And why exactly would you want a loophole that would compromise the security of your security solution?

I'd like to add that I'm expecting you to fiddle with the size of the desktop and then trying the auto-adjust function on the monitor to see if you can find a working combination. Sometimes I just forget to write all of my thoughts, sorry for that. Also, to expand on the first paragraph - the problem might also stem from having two monitors which have different resolutions and the DP adapter not passing through the correct resolution of the second one, so Windows is doing some guessing on what the second monitor actually needs in terms of resolution.

The fact that you have two monitors is actually important and you should've put it in your original post Are you using any Windows scaling? I don't have an NVIDIA graphics card so I don't know how the settings work but I would select "Proporcje" and go from there.

I think that it might be an underscan issue where your PC outputs some black padding to the DP output and the DP->VGA adapter converts that to a legitimate VGA signal which tricks the monitor into thinking it's part of the picture. Try resizing your desktop through NVIDIA Control Panel.

Let me insert myself into this thread. Let's start at the hardware level. GPU is a processor, so it has an instruction set (AMD GCN ISA manual). The instruction set defines all of the tasks that any processor is able to do. But GPU is a whole subsystem that communicates through a bus with the system, so it has some kind of protocol that encapsulates the instructions. Then we have the GPU driver - this is the link between the operating system and the GPU. Operating system needs drivers for all devices in order to know how to speak to them. It defines the protocol. For now, let's skip to the last part of the chain - the application (it doesn't need to be a game). The app needs to use the GPU, so if there was nothing in between, it would talk to the driver. Every GPU generation has a different architecture which may warrant changes to its instruction set. That would be very ineffective and that is why majority of developers don't do that. If the apps wanted to support every GPU architecture, then they would need to keep up with all the changes that come with every new GPU - that sounds like a lot of work, doesn't it? Insert APIs. API stands for application programming interface. It's a fixed set of conventions (an interface - function names, data formats...) that developers can use to connect software with other software. It's a bridge between the GPU driver and the application so that the application is easy enough to develop and maintain. It's hard to give you an example what exactly goes on at any stage because the programming APIs are already on a lower level. If you were programming an app, you would be using a rendering library like SDL. If we are talking 3D graphics, that is even more complicated and way over my head. I hope that I cleared it up for you

1) If the PSU is damaged, you shouldn't use it under any circumstances. It's the only barrier that prevents components that are designed to work with 3-12Vdc from getting 100-230Vac (depending on where you live). And it's the only component that can take the whole PC down with itself if there is a critical failure. 2) The cooler being overburdened is only a symptom. There is nothing that can break by itself on a cooler if it just gets too hot. You can be sure only if you test your PC with another PSU and the smell won't be present.

Sorry, your first mention didn't come through, only seeing this now. I've been looking at hardware video decoding on Linux yesterday (total coincidence). The most useful resource seemed to be (as always) Arch Wiki and then I found a Debian Wiki page too. For starters, I have ThinkPad Yoga 12 with Haswell i5 running Ubuntu 18.04 and Windows 10. It seems like the open and closed source Intel drivers both support hardware acceleration. Although, I haven't been able to see much improvement from h264ify on Linux either, it worked wonders on Windows - from stuttery mess and 100% CPU utilization, I can now watch 1080p60 with ~7% CPU utilization (when the video is buffered, buffering strains the CPU a lot too). I believe that the small improvement on Linux comes from the fact that h264 is easier to decode on the CPU and hardware acceleration is still not working. Might be some incompatibility between the Linux drivers and kernel or something else. VP9 has better compression ratio than h264 and that's why Google started defaulting it on YouTube. Better codecs are always harder to process because the encode and decode algorithm is more advanced. I haven't gone through any troubleshooting on Arch's wiki because I didn't really have a problem with it on Linux. But I think that the Arch wiki verification and troubleshooting section is worth looking into.

This is a video acceleration problem. All GPUs nowadays have a video acceleration hardware built-in. The problem with older devices is that new codecs pop up and older hardware doesn't have the support for these newer codecs. YouTube switched to VP9 which is hardware decoded only on Kaby Lake Apollo Lake iGPUs and newer. This means that the decoding will be CPU only and that's why you see stuttering and 100% load. There is a browser extension that can switch YouTube videos back to h264 which is hardware accelerated on most computers, it's called h264ify. Search your browser extension store, it's available for Chrome and Firefox. You can see the used codec by right clicking the YouTube video and choosing Stats for nerds.

I once had all kind of problems with installing Windows... Turned out to be a faulty installation media. Or it might be your USB flashdrive or USB port. I would try to rerun Media Creation Tool an a different USB flash drive and putting it in a different port.

What I don't understand from your replies is what is the actual problem. Do you not see 1080p in the resolution settings? In that case, are you trying to set resolution from Windows or the GPU driver? Can you maybe send screenshots of your settings when it's OK and when it's not? Monitor sends Extended Display Identification Data (EDID) to the graphics card which lists all of the supported resolutions. Faulty cable or loose connection can prevent this which causes the driver to list some default list of resolutions. If you are sure that the monitor supports 1080p, and you cannot set it, you can then try to set a custom resolution from your GPU driver. This should be your last resort, because something is wrong if you can't set the right resolution.

This confirmed my suspicion that you have a prebuilt PC. Delta is a reputable manufacturer, so it's definitely not some crappy PSU that will go up in smoke because it rains outside. What I meant was, that the increased load from the malware might have damaged it, not your current load. PSU wattage is usually chosen based on 80% utilization of the whole system. This is fine since PCs usually don't need all of the power most of the time. If the malware was causing overheating, there is a good chance that your computer was requesting peak power for prolonged periods of time which can damage the PSU. You can even see the peak power rating on the label - but that really means peak power, not sustained load. You should try borrowing a PSU from a friend and swapping it to see if this is the problem. But having a prebuilt PC complicates this as it may use non-standard connectors. You need to check that motherboard power connectors conform to the ATX specification - you should have a 24 pin and 8/2x4/4 pin CPU power connector (Google is your friend here). If they do, any ATX power supply should do for testing.

I don't see anything wrong with the temperatures either. Maybe the high CPU load put more strain on your PSU and something started to slowly fail in there? What is your PSU model? You should try to pinpoint the source of the smell and I would start by the PSU vent...

I guess that you meant that your resolution changes? With the limited information I have, I think that you are experiencing changes in screen settings when you close and open the lid. The display configurations change because by closing the lid, only the external monitor stays visible to the OS (at least with default power settings). When you close the lid of your laptop, the projection settings change from mirroring (duplicate) to external display only (second screen only). Projection settings in Windows can be opened with shortcut Win+P. You can confirm this by changing projection modes while the lid is open. Try changing resolution of the external monitor when you close the lid (or the second screen only projection mode is activated). That should solve your problem.

Also, I would advise against cleaning any "junk" files manually. If you need more disk space, use Windows Disk Cleaning utility. Or upgrade to Windows 10 and visit System > Storage section in the modern Settings. Windows 10 can even clean your disk automatically with Storage Sense. On a side note, please, upgrade to Windows 10 (or other modern OS)... Windows 7 is out of support but I'm sure you are aware of that.

This looks related: https://superuser.com/questions/724654/this-folder-is-shared-with-other-people-when-deleting-not-shared-folder

Did you refill before it started printing blanks? That would mean your refill ink clogged the cartridge. Flowing might not mean it is going to work. I was just doing some reading on how the inkjet printer works and it forces droplets out by vaporizing the ink. Maybe the ink is just not up to the standard and it stopped working. Or the old and new ink didn't respond well to mixing. All of this should be resolved with buying a new cartridge IMO.

Here is a slightly expanded version of it with more troubleshooting steps: https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-envy-5530-e-all-in-one-printer-series/5304881/model/5373124/document/c03743678

What do you mean by refilling cartridges? Installing new ones or some kind of a refill kit? What do you mean by blanks? Completely blank pages? Does it affect all colors or just some? Ensuring that they are not clogged - how? Did you clean the cartridges a suggested in the manual? Considering my current understanding of your problem, this seems like a printhead problem. Did you try the printhead cleaning procedure from the menu of your printer?

Someone from Greece should answer this because I can't possibly know or understand anything from your e-tailers. Also brand or SKU availability won't be the same throughout whole Europe. There is a Czech e-shop that does EU shipping because they want to expand, they are number one in Slovakia and Czechia I think (I really don't feel like fact checking that). They have a decent English website with great filtering capabilities, so you can cross-reference with some of your local price comparison websites. Look here and feel free to apply more filters. At this price point, you would usually find Zalman cases and I've worked with them, they are very flimsy (at least in under 40€ price point). If you want Zalman, this would probably resolve in cases over 50€. What I can recommend on the other hand is SilentiumPC - they're a Polish manufacturer and I have also worked in one of their cases and it was much better than Zalman at the same price point. They often have very good features for the price.

It will work like if nothing happened. Well, unless you damage the GPU

If you look at the biggest grey Nordlux sticker it says 220-240V. Along with CE mark which indicates it's sold in EU. A little Google search "nordlux 7886" led me to the lamp type and consequently to the manufacturer's website - this is a Nordlux Melo 34 lamp. You can check the datasheet, it also lists 230V as voltage: https://www.nordlux.com/products/product/63246001

Not an electrician, but seems like the sensor is getting power at least. As others pointed out, LEDs usually don't fail so it's either the sensor or the LED driver. From the picture, the LED driver is YAMENG 18W450. The power comes into the sensor and from the sensor to the LED driver. You can try measuring voltage at the sensor out (don't forget to wave so it has a chance to switch on), it varies around the world but should be 220Vac or 230Vac. You should also hear a click when the relay in the sensor switches on the output. If there is no voltage or a click, the sensor is dead. As a sanity check, you can also measure the input, it should be the same. Then you need to measure the voltage on the LED driver output, it seems like there are 4 strips in series and they are usually 12Vdc so 48Vdc for the 4 strips. The driver output goes only up to 42Vdc, so they might be 5V and that would comfortably fit within the driver parameters but what do I know It's ok if there isn't zero. You can also test the LED driver by bypassing the sensor altogether. Just be safe and work work with the wires only if the breaker is OFF. If you are unsure, don't do anything and leave it to a professional. You can buy another LED driver or a sensor, there are even units that have sensor integrated with a driver, just check the voltage, current and/or power parameters before buying. Clarification on the sensor in there, this looks more like it: https://www.merrytek.com/sale-7536152-tuv-certification-microwave-motion-sensor-movement-detector-for-lighting.html

BRIT Awards to Linus: GAME ON!

Interesting presentation of a dead RAM stick, experience++