itzzkolt

My primary OS is Windows 10 on my SSD (C drive). I recently decided to try out something with Windows 8.1, so I flashed a USB drive with it and made space I had on another SSD (G drive). I installed the operating system on there, which worked until the OS crashed after a few minutes of using it. I decided to just delete the partition holding the OS on my G drive. Now when I boot up on my computer, it turns light blue for a second then presents me with this message; https://ibb.co/j4Cmysy Pressing OK restarts it and it will boot up to the same message again and again. The default device to boot from is my main SSD however there is only Windows 10 on there but when it boots to it, I get this message. Now if I boot to the Windows Boot manager on my same SSD, it sends me right to Windows 10. https://ibb.co/1bphZv6 I tried making this the default boot option through BIOS but it doesn't present itself as an option, just only my hard disks. I would like to mention I have an HDD containing Windows7 from my retired Lenovo machine which I don't believe is selected to start up, however it's worth mentioning because of the original error

Just applied the first XMP profile and that seems to work, thanks!

Cycled power, same thing. I reverted back to where I was and went in OS just fine. Exploring other options

Reverted past RAM OC configs and selected that XMP profile which was already there. Instantly went into blue screen about missing or corrupted critical system driver, tcpip.sys. I just it down and it turns on, but my display or keyboard is not lighting up.

I have an AMD Ryzen 2700x with a MSI X470 motherboard and Ryzen Master is telling me my memory clock is at 1067. Some say that is accurate if my memory is 2133 MHz, however I am using Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB rated at 3200 MHz. Would it be possible to overclock it to that rated speed (or somewhere close to it)? Thank you

You could by a 3 pack of Google Wifi and spread them where you need them. Connect them to each other to create a mesh network or if you have extra cabling, use that. Or you could buy a couple of Ubiquiti Unifi APs and call it a day, just need the controller running on a computer.

Hey, I saw these before and just learning about them now from this thread and your post. It seems like interesting technology but thought it would cost a fortune and now seeing this priced lower than I expected (looking at both Uibuqiti and TP-LINK models), if I were to set one up on my house pointed out into my field, would it just act as a wireless point with it broadcasting wireless further than your average AP? Or do I need to buy another to bridge both together and connect an AP on the other end to accomplish this wireless extension? Thanks.

Depending on which Linksys router you get, you can enable Quality of Service (QoS) for your system so traffic to it is prioritized over any other data-hungry devices. It's not just Linksys routers that have this feature though. Most if not all routers on the market have this feature but Linksys is a good brand. Also be aware that if all of your upload speed is being used, you will experience high ping. Hope this helps.

I remember uploading a video and playing csgo and the ping was horrible. I noticed all the players were foreigners and they were speaking another language. Somehow I got connected to foreign server. Same situation might have occurred with you too. Try to verify this is not the case. Also you could try lowering bitrate/refresh rate and see if that solves it although it might not be the case if your getting those higher speeds.

I don't think its added as a backup because they don't fail. I'm not saying they can't, but if it were an issue every motherboard would have two of them. Plus both ports are gigabit so you won't reach another close to 10Gbps

I would think of more speed. If you aggregate both ports, you will double bandwidth to 2Gbps which might be likened by people having the need to do large file transfers over the network at a given time. Or you could use it for another Ethernet capable device maybe?

I am sure there will be more qualified people than me giving you better advice but might I suggest an AM4 based system? Here are some links I've compiled. Just for you to consider. https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B079D3DBNM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526580916&sr=1-2&keywords=2400g Hope this helps. Best of luck to you!

I can't comment regarding wireless. Both offer 2.4 & 5 GHz bands which is pretty much a standard with every modern-day router. From looking at the hardware details on the Netgear router you listed, the Ethernet interfaces are only capable of 10/100 Ethernet, meaning it will never go past 100Mbps when moving data throughout the network, i.e. local file transfers. The real bottleneck would be if you have internet faster than 100Mbps. Your current router is capable of gigabit ethernet which is 10x faster than the Netgear. If I were you, I would stick with the current one unless you don't like something about (GUI/managment, wireless connectivity). Hope this helps!

I've built my computer just a week ago and was getting 1 or 2 BSODs everyday with a variety of error codes. Reinstalled drivers and everything. Then one day it wasn't booting properly. Eventually I had it booting probably 15 attempts later. I was eventually recommended to do a clean/full whatever install which after consideration, I did. After that, no more issues. What type of install did you do? I created a bootable USB with Windows Media creation and did a custom install (clean install) which worked. You may have done another type of install that didn't change anything.

You could upgrade to a better graphics card for sure like a 1050 or 1060 but even then your processor will become a bottleneck, it just depends by how much.