Railgun

3 minutes ago, Slottr said:

Modmic

 

Does not insert into the headset, no. But works similarly.

 

Otherwise, I think you should look at condenser mics

Gonna check that out. Right away I see that Hardware Canucks is endorsing it so that's a great sign

Hello,

I'm looking to buy a microphone with higher quality than the one I currently use. I don't really like having something big getting in the way and cluttering my desk so I'm hoping there are some decent quality mics that can attach to my headset. I currently use the Hyperx Cloud II's which has a built in mic that can be removed. I don't really care if the new mic fits into the old slot or just attaches to the headset itself via some other method. As long as it works and sounds better than the Cloud's mic

Thanks in advance

1 minute ago, GamerBlake said:

Cool! I’ll check it out then. I’m not too familiar with emulators but I know my computer is powerful enough to run basically anything. It’s got a 2080 Ti , 8700K, Samsung NVMe SSD and 32GB of 3200mhz DDR4 ram. Full specs are in my signature.

Yeah your computer is better than mine so you should be good to go. Have fun with your quarantine! I know I'm enjoying mine lol. Plenty of time to work on projects

Obviously everyone is gonna have their own preferences (despite all the praise Im about to lay down, Wind Waker is still my favorite!) but just to set the record straight, BotW is an absolute masterpiece of a videogame. The visuals and how they connect to the art style as a whole are absolutely fantastic. The music and especially sound design are literally as good as it gets. Nintendo's sound design game is often way ahead of any other company and and BotW is a great example of this. The best part of the game is the open world aspect and freedom of gameplay. They spent years perfecting everything they could and delayed the game several times to make sure they achieve their expected level of quality. BotW firmly belongs on any "must play" list for the Switch.

My only main complaint is that there are times when you will get under 30 FPS. It's not a super annoying problem for the most part, but it can break the immersion at times. I actually think the best way to play it is to emulate it on the Cemu emulator if you have a strong enough computer. It's nice to play on the switch for convenience and authenticity, but honestly nothing beats a smooth 144 FPS at 1440p or higher with custom graphics packs to enhance the colors of the game if you wish. There's a channel called BsoD_Gaming that has comprehensive setup guides for all major releases of the emulator. Definitely need a strong computer for the full experience though.

2 minutes ago, _d0nut said:

Honestly, if you don't need PCIe 4.0(most people don't), a MSI B450 Tomahawk is sufficient, unless you're going for Ryzen 9. 

yeah I just went with the one Herman suggested

8 minutes ago, Herman Mcpootis said:

the B450 MAX boards don't need a bios update to support the zen 2 CPUs, plus the X570-A Pro is really shitty. 

I see. In that case, would this be a good alternative?

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jcYQzy

EDIT: nvm I saw the post you made literally seconds before I posted this reply lol. Thanks for the advice!

For the most part what bothers me is that X570 boards are so expensive. He's not interested in any fancy features such as overclocking performance but according to pcpartpicker all the cheaper chipsets aren't compatible without having to mess with updating the bios

Thanks in advance

3 minutes ago, MapoTofuuV2 said:

Should I use a screwdriver to short circuit the pins? Do I keep the computer off or on when I do this?

your motherboard should have come with a jumper plug. What you would normally do is turn the computer OFF then apply the plug to the correct position, then turn the computer on for a moment then back off again and remove the plug. I suppose you COULD use a screwdriver and I've seen it done before but that's ghetto af

EDIT: conflicting info from the post above me on whether or not the power should be off. Im pretty sure my method is correct but I could be wrong lol

1 minute ago, MapoTofuuV2 said:

For the Step 2, do you mean the clear cmos button as the jumper also?

sometimes it's a jumper instead of a button

Please grow up...

no, Im not going to do your homework for you lol

10 minutes ago, Over_Confident said:

Alright, because I'm a noob when it comes to temp and results on google we're all different. What are normal temps for those parts ?

Just make sure they don't going above 90 or 95. Your temps are completely normal. 80 might be a bit high for a cpu if you ever see that temp, but it's still fine if it gets that hot

To add onto the comment above, make sure you are discerning the difference between a network switch and a network hub if you decide to look into that. Hubs might seem like another word for the same thing, but in reality they can only support one signal at a time which could mean slowdowns if your NAS is uploading/downloading while you are trying to use the internet. Just something to keep in mind

9 hours ago, LogicalDrm said:

Not really. The problem with RGB is that you either need to buy per brand or suffer from the decision made. When pretty much all component manufacturers also have their own peripherals, there's nothing to force them to unification. Aka there's no standard if you would want to have RGB sync.

I see. Guess we'll just have to deal with it. Thanks for the reply

I helped build a PC (special thanks to everyone on this thread, you all played a role) that has a few RGB components including the RAM, GPU, and Logitech mouse and keyboard. The problem is that they each have their own RGB control systems and we have to have them all running for the colors to work. This is far from ideal. Is there any way we can set everything up on a much more streamlined system? Components below:

T-Force Nighthawk RAM

EVGA 2070

Logitech mouse and keyboard

POSSIBLY Corsair fans, which would mean a hub for those parts.

3 minutes ago, r2724r16 said:

You decide if it's worth it: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-Ryzen-5-2600X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-2600/3956vs3955

 

I still think your friend should wait for Zen 2 though.

Alright, I'll let him know

Thanks for the help everyone

2 minutes ago, NunoLava1998 said:

I'd wait for Zen 2. What's the power supply?

Cooler Master V650 semi-modular. According to the tier list it's pretty decent

2 minutes ago, r2724r16 said:

Check out this build: 

PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor	$164.39 @ OutletPC
Motherboard	MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard	$109.89 @ OutletPC
Memory	Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory	$94.99 @ Corsair
Storage	Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive	$79.99 @ Amazon
Video Card	EVGA - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB XC BLACK GAMING Video Card	$349.99 @ Amazon
Case	Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case	$53.03 @ Amazon
Monitor	Acer - G247HYU 23.8" 2560x1440 60 Hz Monitor	$214.89 @ OutletPC
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total (before mail-in rebates)	$1087.17
	Mail-in rebates	-$20.00
	Total	$1067.17
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-09 17:15 EDT-0400

Switched out the R5 2600X for a R5 2600, since they perform about the same when overclocked. Threw in some faster memory, a higher capacity SSD, different video card, and a cheaper case. Your friend can add a CPU cooler and more storage to this build if needed.

 

I honestly recommend tellling your friend to wait until Zen 2 chips hit the market before building a PC. Those CPUs may be slightly better (and cheaper) than what AMD and Intel have to offer today.

Ah, forgot about Zen 2. Should have also mentioned that he doesn't want to mess with overclocking. With that being said, would you still recommend going with the non X variant?

As the title states, he wants to keep the price range as close to $1000 as possible. One thing to keep in mind is that I already have a power supply, so that part won't be needed in the list.

Only thing I might be particularly concerned about is the cpu and graphics card combo, but according to a benchmark I found they should be able to stay above 60 fps at 1440p. Let me know what you guys think

Lol this post really looks like it was made by a bot

Have you used any remote desktop software recently such as TeamViewer? While technically not impossible, I find it pretty much entirely unreasonable that someone from the internet has hacked into your computer and given themselves access just to mess with you like that. 100% chance this is just your friends trolling you or something. But that's just my opinion

well first I would make sure your siblings/friends weren't trolling you with a remote desktop or just an extra bluetooth keyboard

TBH I also hate how modern smart phones aren't always 16:9. That aspect ratio is a standard for a reason. Even if there is a reason for 18:9 to be a thing, it feels kind of like Apple removing the headphone jack for the sake of "moving forward" when the rest of the world still revolves around its use (but of course, not near as bad). I've gotten used to it though.

I have the Hyperx Cloud II and I'm considering buying a more high quality microphone than the one that comes with the headset. The only problem is that I can't seem to find any that are designed to plug directly into the headset itself. I'm not looking for a mic that sits on my desk or one that attaches externally (like the ModMic for example) I would rather be able to just plug it into the existing mic slot on the headset. Does anyone have any recommendations or keywords I can use for better search results?

Thanks

5 minutes ago, homeap5 said:

So if he want really good motherboard and i7 processor, that Asrock is good. Asus has good motherboards too, but the same quality = 3 x bigger price.

MSI are cheaper and still good, even if they have lack of some features in BIOS (not important for most of users, annoying for me).

Mobo quality isn't really important. He's most likely not gonna touch most of that stuff anyway. I was thinking of sticking with the Ryzen 5 2600x since it's cheap and works well enough. Only issue I'm running into now is that PCPP is telling me that some mobos might need a bios update with specific processors and that's not something he's gonna want to deal with. Any way to know for sure which motherboards will work with R5 right out of the box?