Syndaz

I'll question as to why you think Corsair makes good peripherals. ICue is nothing short of a terrible piece of software and relying on it for main system functionality in the form of your mouse is just begging for trouble. If you really want a multi-side button mouse you're better off with the Naga or G600 if you're willing to put up with the laser sensor and don't plan on doing anything competitively.

G305, Orochi V2 if you want a safer egg shape, or the Hati S are all wireless small mice. For wired there's the MM720 for a very comfy mouse shape. Skoll Mini if you want a small ergo in the shape of the Zowie EC series. M1K if you want a pure fingertip mouse. XTRFY M42 or Model O- are another two ambi options.

GK61/64 are budget 60% and 65% boards that are pretty cheap. Currently the plastic case versions are going around 75 bucks on Banggood but I got mine for 54 bucks awhile back and they used to go on sale fairly often. If you want a metal version, you'll have to go up in price a bit to around the ~110 to 120 dollar range but from what I can tell all the metal case versions of the GK64 are all OOS on every site I've checked so far.

It's overpriced for what it is and has poor ergonomics since it's a bucket seat and you don't need a stupid amount of money to get a good chair. Either go used and pick up a Herman Miller Aeron or Steelcase Leap or wait for Staples to have one of its sales again on the Dexley or Hyken. Same thought applies on the Pro X keyboard. You can get a TKL from Glorious that allows for you to try any switch out there on the market rather than the 3 proprietary ones Logitech has.

That should be good enough. You can test if it works by having the mouse slightly hovering above your mousepad and see if it still tracks. If it doesn't, then it works.

If you provide a budget then we can start looking at options to replace your current peripherals.

Trying to use one key for multiple PCs is a grey area and technically Microsoft has the right to revoke it if you do. If I remember correctly, you can still install W10 without a key, all you need to do is skip the part where it asks for your key on the bottom right when you install. You won't be able to access some features like changing wallpapers and there'll be a watermark on the bottom right asking you to verify your Windows installation.

Assuming it is Windows 10, keys are now tied to your Microsoft account.

I never said your mouse was a gaming mouse. I said that if you don't want the stuttering due to the sensor not being able to keep up, then you need to get a proper mouse that was designed for gaming. Gaming on an office mouse is fine if you're just playing things casually but I doubt that is your use case.

Can't find any info on what optical sensor it actually is. Perhaps I should have corrected myself and say that all proper gaming mice have GOOD optical sensors.

I can't help you solve what can't be solved due to your mouse using a laser sensor. There's a reason why all proper gaming mice use optical sensors and not lasers.

It's a laser sensor. It simply can not keep up with the inputs at whatever DPI it is at and that's why you have the stuttering in games. You can get a solid mouse like the G102/G203 or Viper Mini on the cheap, though with the Viper you'll have to do the tape mod with it.

Mechcables is what you should be looking at in the US. A good coiled cable depending on how you configure it will still end up costing $50 though you can still get it for a bit cheaper if you don't choose detachable connectors, etc.

Zilents V2 might be what you're looking for. Here's what Zilents sound like with some 3204 lube.

I don't think so either but considering his location and his mention of price in his country, it may be the case that he doesn't have much choice.