Coaxialgamer

Something like an HD5450 or GT210 from ebay could do the trick if you're so inclined, though I understand if you aren't. I'm less concerned about the steady-state power consumption of the rig (which is how Nvidia gives out PSU recommendations after all), but the 3000 series as a whole tends exhibit spikes of greatly increased power consumption when first loaded, which can trip some PSUs up. That said, if you haven't had issues for over a year it probably isn't the problem. The fact that things are back to normal are a tad puzzling admittedly. Perhaps try reseating cales and other connectors around the GPU? Otherwise, if everything is back to normal I wouldn't worry too much about it given there's not a whole lot you can do to isolate the problem to begin with.

The way to know for sure is to test things with another GPU. That being said, 750W does seem a bit tight for a 3090 build, especially considering the power spiking tendencies of the 3090. It's possible that a combination of temps and changing benchmark conditions are pushing it over the edge after a little while.

You can look at benchmarks for these chips and CPU/GPU combos and select the laptop with the best on-paper specs for the money. That being said, I think that would be a mistake. A laptop isn't just a metal box you place next to your desk and forget about, and you should probably also look at other non-performance aspects of each build. Screen quality, battery size, unit weight, overall build quality, manufacturer reputation and I/O are all factors you should consider too. Worse still, laptop-specific cooler and power limitations could make two identically-specced laptops perform quite differently. Personally made the mistake of going for a fairly powerful "gaming" laptop when I enrolled into engineering school, but with hindsight I've made my laptop far less usable day-to-day for performance I only ever use occasionally. Point is, I would advise really examining whether or not you need that performance, or if you're simply falling into the numbers trap here. As for purchasing decisions: shop around. Look at laptops first, not spec sheets. Once you've found a good platform, then look at the available configs. Find units in your price range that you like and shop from there. You do not want to trade a good laptop for a terrible one just to get a slightly better CPU or GPU: while chasing max performance/dollar on a laptop can end well, you might end up skimping on so many of the features that don't directly contribute to performance but actually make the thing usable day-to-day.

Anyone else feel that these are all quite noisy? I'm listening to a few of them and there's an audible hiss-like sound playing over everything. It's like the took the dreamy/LSD-induced warping found in some AI-generated image art and transposed that into sound

You're looking at 3070-class performance, give or take depending on feature and VRAM usage. Now if you're asking whether or not the 3070 is a slow card... Seriously though, that card still has plenty of fight left in it. If you're asking whether or not you should buy one, that's more a question of price than anything else.

You're way overspending on CPU, and that PSU is a bit sketch. Also, you're way overspending on case for an 800 build. 300 USD for a 3050 is also a waste in a world where the 6600XT and 6700XT exist. Here's a cheaper, faster build: PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wjXPBj CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($129.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock B550M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($110.73 @ MemoryC) Memory: Silicon Power SP016GBLFU320B22 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL22 Memory ($37.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Silicon Power A60 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($50.49 @ Newegg Sellers) Video Card: MSI MECH 2X OC Radeon RX 6700 XT 12 GB Video Card ($349.99 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Versa H17 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($44.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GX2 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Total: $784.17 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-01-30 21:06 EST-0500 Here's a MUCH faster build within your original 1K budget (enable PBO on that board to get more from that CPU). PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/d4D2cb CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($129.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock 2 Black CPU Cooler ($44.90 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($48.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Silicon Power A60 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($50.49 @ Newegg Sellers) Video Card: ASRock Phantom Gaming D OC Radeon RX 6800 16 GB Video Card ($479.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GX2 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Total: $999.32 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-01-30 21:09 EST-0500 Feel free to get more storage if you feel you can do without that aftermarket cooler for example.

You say that like France and Germany don't total nearly 1 million square kilometers combined... which cities are you planning to visit? Better yet, which parts of which cities, given the size of places like Paris or Berlin... Also, why? You're going to find the exact same stuff here as you would anywhere else, and as with most of Europe it isn't going to be all that cheap either. Corner PC shops that aren't mom-and-pop shops where you get shafted through the nose for parts are fairly rare here if you discount places that don't specialize in mass-market stuff (eg a Best-buy type outfit). LDLC is basically the only one I can think of here in France, but Paris has an entire street full of small corner PC shops if that's more your style.

Just got a used NHD14 off my local equivalent of craigslist. Paid 45 EUR for it after buying an AM4 bracket and paying for shipping/handling. That thing blows my old Nepton 240M out of the water, and it's quieter to boot (not to mention more reliable inherently). Point is: unless you're planning on going super high end you'll probably be better served by a decent air cooler. Not only do AIOs have a fixed cost associated with the pump, tubing, etc, but entry-level units often come with cheap, noisy, less reliable pump and have less surface area overall than a comparable air cooler. IMO, the best play here is to buy a used air cooler because there's basically nothing (fans aside) that can fail, and you can get them for damn cheap too.

To be clear, I myself am sometimes infuriated by windows update, as it has caused problems for me on more than one occasion. But given the number of responses this has gotten, I feel I should underline that I was entirely poking fun at the idea that updates are a violation of user rights, not a point about windows update itself.

By that logic any software update done to any piece of hardware ever is problematic... You're perfectly free to never update your console ever if you like, but you probably won't like the results. On a sidenote, why is this the hill you're willing to die on? Many shitty changes have been brought on by updates over countless generations, but increasing the efficiency of sleep mode has literally no downside whatsoever (or at least none that we know of yet). You're not mad that Microsoft is updating their console (something which you probably did consent to at some point in a EULA), you're just pissed that they're using language that implies some level of ecological awareness.

That chip runs very hot. I am not surprised...

Intel's RISC V efforts ≠ their entire CPU program. RISC-V is an open-source architecture that came out a few years ago. It's mostly seen as an eventual competitor to ARM, so Intel investing in the RISC V space now means they would have a leg up if it ever overturned ARM. Intel produces a lot of processors, including the x86 chips that form the backbone of client and server processing, but they also make microcontrollers (their Quark line) and apparently they design RISC-V stuff too. Intel retreating from this space just means they won't be pursuing developments in that particular aspect of RISC V, but certainly not that they're abandoning CPUs as a whole. CEO must think that the RISC V gamble is one that won't or can't pay off for Intel, at least when it comes to IDEs. He might also believe that it's one of the less critical elements of Intel Corp and thus more deserving of being shut down in order to cut losses.

Windows update be violating my god given rights to have an unsecured machine with obsolete features.

This isn't a hard problem man. The console can absolutely detect if anything important is already happening before entering standby (or this deeper, more efficient form of standby). If anything, this just reduces power consumption when the console would already have been on standby. Many idle tasks could also be done on standby quite easily. There's not so much as a hint that these updates will change anything for the user aside from reducing waste. You're complaining that the console is wasting less power because what exactly?

You'd be surprised. Consoles spend the vast majority of their time on standby, so standby power has a massive effect on average power consumption (and is even greater when the share of standby time increases). I don't know the actual power consumption figures for something like an xbox, but it's not inconceivable that reducing standby power this much could reduce the lifetime electricity consumption of an xbox by a factor of two.

Imo, it's asking the wrong question. The Wan show, being a tech news podcast, is meant to be consumed to a far greater degree than even most LTT vids. They are far less rewatchable, the format is the same every week, and overall objective quality stays the same between episodes.

There's a space just left of my desk between it and the wall which conveniently also has an outlet. I can't move my desk to make space to the right because my fiber box blocks it, not to mention the lack of outlet there. So yes, left of me and on the ground. Only issue is that I don't see my components through the tempered glass window.

Some background: I got a Samsung Tab S6 lite for Christmas this year as a way for me to take notes at uni. Something that has started to irritate me over the last month is how little you can truly do from the device's lock screen. Given the lack of a fingerprint sensor and the general fiddlyness of face recognition (i wear glasses), unlocking requires i input a pin. Most functions, even within the android drop-down menu, require me to unlock my device first before doing what they're supposed to do. This is irritating because I would like to be able to toggle options such as Bluetooth or wifi from the lockscreen easily and quickly. Typing in my pin is a needless friction point here, especially since this sort of stuff from the lockscreen is possible on my android phone. Heck, even turning off my device requires I unlock it first... Is there any way to adjust this sort of behavior on Android? A cursory search of my settings revealed nothing, but I may have missed stuff.

problems with your post perhaps? Forget to fill in the various fields?

The 6600 is significantly faster, so get that. I have owned two Nvidia GPUs (a 1660ti mobile and an RTX 2080) and two AMD GPUs (multiple 290Xs and my current RX 6800) over the course of my life. In the simplest possible terms, anyone who claims AMD drivers are unusable is either lying or unfortunate. 99% of the time I cannot tell the difference between these various GPUs, at least beyond their respective performance. Most games ran as well on my radeon cards as on my geforce cards, and I've never had AMD's software cause any issues for my PC at large. That's not to say that things are perfect though. While I've had absolutely no issue with the vast majority of titles I've touched, the glaring exception is VR. To put it bluntly, current AMD drivers have broken a few VR titles I play (notably Elite Dangerous), and until these issues are fixed I'm stuck on 8-month old drivers. I'm also experiencing weird GPU stat reporting errors but frankly I haven't narrowed that down to this specific driver version yet. Performance in VR games is also more hit-or-miss. These issues are annoying, and for all I know I could be stuck with them for months. I had no such issues on my 2080, and if I had I would have had a greater degree of confidence that the issue would have been fixed quickly. tl,dr: unless you fall within some specific edge cases you'll be hard pressed to see a difference. If you're after normal gaming you would be missing out on performance and features by choosing a 2060 over a 6600XT. AMD's drivers may be behind Nvidia's, but they've come a long way and in no way impede or otherwise deteriorate the experience of using your PC in the majority of cases.

The general advice most people give is "if it ain't broke don't fix it". In other words, if newer BIOS revisions don't do anything specific for you (add support for your next CPU, improve stability or features), don't.

I would personally go used for that budget (and most of my current hardware is), but admittedly OP might not want to go that route, especially for someone else. Unfortunately no good deed goes unpunished, and I suspect many a family member might be a bit of a pain if that used hardware performed any less than flawlessly.