kfarris

Okay so to start out I am going to guess and say your using windows 7. If so this is caused by the registry configs (or lack of in win7). In windows 8 and up they did an overhaul to better handle the higher end cards. Basically what I am saying is your going to need to patch windows 7 registry in order for your high end card to work properly. To start you will want to open regedit.exe (just type in start menu should pop up). And I want you to go ahead and backup the registry 2 times just to be safe. And if anything happens just boot into safe mode and load one of the 2 backups. After that go ahead and locate HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\GraphicsDrivers and I want you to Right click on the GraphicsDrivers folder click new REG_DWORD 32bit Value (Make 6 of them) and yes even if you have 64bit OS. Right click rename the first one you made as TdrDdiDelay, 2nd one name it TdrDebugMode, 3rd TdrDelay, 4th TdrLevel, 5th TdrLimitCount, 6th TdrLimitTime after that double click on TdrdiDelay set to 5 (NOTE: all of these are hex based) set TdrDebugMode 2 set TdrDelay 2 set TdrLevel 3 set TdrLimitCount 5 set TdrLimitTime 60 (Note go to DCI folder below GraphicsDriver folder and set Timeout to 2 and up by 2 (max is 10) until your display driver stops not responding). This is what I am currently doing to on a friends PC and it worked for him. My sources I got this from are https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/ff569918(v=vs.85).aspx and https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/569661/tdr-registry-settings/?offset=1 Update 2: If on windows 8 go under HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\GraphicsDrivers and click on DCI folder see if a Timeout is already there if so set Timeout to 2 and up by 2 (max is 10) until your display driver stops not responding. (would recommend doing a reg-backup before you edit it.) Update one: OS pings video card if I am not mistaken every 2 seconds and if does not receive a response within 2 seconds the driver will crash. "TdrDelay" value increases timespan of response requirement thus potentially preventing the error if video card response within 10 seconds.

Is the ram getting enough voltage? Try uping it a little, is the XMP profile enabled? (if it has one) Is the CPU overclocked at all? If so you may need to up the Vcore voltage.

Some people do it on old cheap hardware when it's their first time so that if they do fuck up and it leaks then at least they didn't just throw a grand out the window..

ManWithBeard199 Do you have the latest BIOS update? latest one was 2 months ago.. http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/FM2A88X%20Extreme4+/?cat=Download&os=BIOS Also, make sure drivers are up to date and windows. If you can't get past 4.3ghz then your probably doing something wrong with the settings or it could be that your over heat temperature protection is kicking in and you may have to disable that feature but if you don't watch the temps you could kill your computer..(I take no responsibility for it) Maximum Operating Temperature for yours is 72C http://cpuboss.com/cpus/AMD-A10-7850K-vs-AMD-A10-6800K

What motherboard are you using and ram? Also, do you have a GPU installed on top of the APU? Update: Never mind I see you specs under your profile (sorry lol). Please give me a few minutes to investigate your issue. Also, if you can post a screen shot or type your BIOS settings in that would help.

I looked at your motherboards BIOS with the pdf file I downloaded. And under advanced voltage settings their is a setting called CPU Vcore that is the one that controls your CPU. You need to set that manually if you are messing with the clock speeds. Example clock speed 3.8ghz CPU VCORE should be about 1.440 - 1.500 I'd start 1.440 and see if she boots and 3.8ghz if so up clock speed until it doesn't boot reset, up voltage and repeat until you get the clock speed you wanted or until you run out of Temp overhead room.. After each clock increase do a quick windows run assessment to make sure it doesn't crash if it does then up voltage by 2 and repeat until desired settings are found. But you don't wanna just offset the voltage that can cause sustainability issues.. Update: this post is for DigitalHermit

I am aware of that I am simply saying that your CPU voltage setting is probably too high it doesn't take much voltage to up the core clock speed.. I'm simply saying try downing the CPU volt and see if it will still boot repeat until it doesn't then reset and set to 2 up from where it won't boot re-run the windows assessment score and if it doesn't crash then it's stable (should be might need to run a quick game benchmark to be safe) (sum it up) less voltage you use the cooler your computer will run even in hot weather.. Update: 1 that cooler you have should be sufficient to cool that APU... Update: 2 I have never heard of that thermal paste (but it's all the same).. I am using antec formula 7 nano diamond thermal compound (sigh long name) I use a tone of it and in my opinion the more the better I like it to where it's coming out all 4 sides but not enough to fall onto the motherboard. Thermal paste compound is simply made to help transfer the heat from the CPU to the CPU Block so the less you use the less heat that's gonna get transferred.. I would take off the CPU block and see if the entire cpu head is covered if its not then you didn't use enough if it is then your good.

Well my room temp is 35C which is 95F right now.. And I'm running tests clocked at 4.1ghz - 5.0ghz and even at 5ghz it's only reaching 71C at full load cranked at 5ghz. at 4.8 it stays around 50C idle and 62C under load. And I am also using air cooling (Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO). So I think it's either too high of a voltage setting or you need to reseat your CPU block.. Update: I have disabled all cool n quite features and disabled over heat detection features as I am monitoring it all with inferred sensors and some software.

Are you sure that the CPU block is on correctly? Or tight enough? If it's at 4.2ghz it should run cooler than that.. Like around 46C to 52C. I'd try reseating it maybe you put to little paste on it. that or your voltage is set way higher than it needs to be..

Yes Dude your temps are way below MAX 24/7 Operation temps... http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopAPUDetail.aspx?id=46 Your's is rated for 74C Max 24/7 Operating temp.. And you got a lot of head room to OC that puppy. I recommend starting with a a BIOS update if available for your motherboard. Make sure your drivers and windows are up to date too.

Here is a spoiler of what I am getting OC'd the A10 6800k with 750Ti as dedicated physx card... With onboard enabled GPU enabled..( I think it's enabled need to double check) http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/5294181

Hello my fellow Linus Tech Tips members/fans please be advised that this is a work in progress I will update daily! Message me for anything you think I should add to this. My name is Kyle Farris, Today I have decided to do an Overclocking APU Guide as they differ considerably from what I've read around and seen myself. So to start off I will go ahead and list the components that I have used/are using as of date 2012- present. I will also be adding many photo's of benchmarks in games/bench-marking software as well. So without further ado here is a list of hardware used for these tests. Motherboards Used: ASRock FM2A85X Extreme6 FM2 ASRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ FM2+ / FM2 (<--currently using) MSI FM2-A85XA-G65 FM2 (<-- NOTE: This motherboard is a pain to OC) APU's Used: AMD A10-5800K Trinity Quad-Core 3.8GHz (4.2GHz Turbo) Socket FM2 100W AMD A10-6800K Richland 4.1GHz (4.4GHz Turbo) Socket FM2 100W Quad-Core Desktop Processor - Black Edition AMD A10-7850K Kaveri 12 Compute Cores (4 CPU + 8 GPU) 3.7GHz Socket FM2+ 95W (Note: Have yet to order the 7850k APU will get to next month with more to come!) Cases used: Cooler Master HAF XB EVO APEVIA X-DREAMER4 Series (<--Note: have BLACK, PINK, SILVER, all are good wish they had purple edition) Power Supplies Used: CORSAIR HX Series HX750 80+ gold (Modular) EVGA 500 B 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified 500W (not modular) Ram Used: G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 speed. Patriot Intel Extreme Master, Limited Edition 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 speed ( <--NOTE was able to OC to 2400 speed) ADATA XPG™ Gaming v2.0 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 speed (NOTE: Enable XMP set to 2400C Asrock FM2+ MOTHERBOARD AUTO OC IT NO ISSUES). (NOTE: FOR RAM IN GENERAL) The faster the ram speed on these APU's the better overall performance you will get! I recommend at least 1866-2133 Ideal is 2400 - 2600OC These suckers scream at OC ram speeds. OS Used/Tested: (NOTE: If requested enough I may try other OS's need at least 5+ requests..) (NOTE: All OS's where installed using flash drives.) Windows 7 ult 64bit Windows 10 tech preview 64bit and 32bit. Storage: Intel SSDSC2BW240A4K5 (Note: 240gig) Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5. Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (<--Currently using air cooled) Cooler Master Seidon 120M (<--NOTE 3 years almost running 24/7 still working (water-cooling). Fans: (NOTE: These suckers are quite but move less air at max speed setting.) COUGAR CF-V12H Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing (Fluid) 300,000 Hours 12CM Silent Cooling Fans. Used stock fans that came with the EVO and the Seidon 120M. The cougar fans are just installed in the cases only. Graphics cards used with on-board on/off: EVGA 02G-P4-3753-KR G-SYNC Support GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Video Card (NOTE: Was able to OC pretty good with MSI After Burner Software and Win7 Patches/reg-edits) MSI R6670-MD1GD5 Radeon HD 6670 1GB 128-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card (NOTE: This sucker really OC's) (NOTE: About config OS to use added GPU as dedicated Physx card. Had some very very shocking results in performance..) :huh: Now that we have the hardware out of the way for now, lets go ahead and move onto the testing software that I used and why I used them. Benchmark Tools Used: UPDATE: 3? Prime95 (Not used and will explain why at a later date.) Novabench (HDD Benchmark Tool) (NOTE: LOOKING FOR GOOD SSD SOFTWARE STILL) 3D Mark Software free editions temp (NOTE: NEXT MONTH WILL RUN ALL TESTS AND POST) PCMark Basic editions again temp will upload all next month. SiSoftware Sandra (gives a good well rounded look at system's performance) GeekBench 3 Free edition Games Benchmarked: Metro2033 Resident Evil 5 And 6 Tomb Raider Thief Final Fantasy XIV: A Realm Reborn Grand Theft Auto IV Hitman: Absolution Natural Selection 2 Aliens vs. Predator Doom 3: BFG Edition Battlefield 4 (apparently it has one and am working on config file for it) League of Legends (Does not have benchmark tool but ran some tests anyway) (Let me know if you wish to see more games tested that have built in benchmark tests) Here is a list that I have gathered let me me know if I missed any: What Steam games come with benchmark tools? 1066 1333 1600 1866 2133 2400 Version 2A SPECS: Motherboard: ASRock FM2A88X Extreme6+ FM2+ / FM2 APU: A10-6800K PSU: CORSAIR HX Series HX750 80+ gold RAM: ADATA 2x4gig OS: Windows 7 64Bit Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Overclocked: CPU: 4.8ghz (On-Board) GPU: 950mhz x13 multiplyer Ram: 2400 speed (Dedicated 2Gig of ram as GPU memory.) http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/5296277(Not bad for on-board graphics) Here is a test I did after I added a GTX 750Ti (set as a dedicated physx card) running at stock GPU settings with the above settings: http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/5296303 (scored P18217 that's 61% better than most) Again please keep in mind that this guide is a work in progress will update daily. (update: 6-28-2015 7am Pacific time) Due to some technical issues this has been put on hold for 3? days.. sorry for the inconvenience. But when the site had its maintenance done recently I had lots of stuff waiting to go on here and because the site was down for many hours (8+) some unfortunate events occurred which resulted in data loss on my end..

Okay, so I worked and was trained how to fill every dam ink cartridge known to man. Also, all of the popular toner cartridges. And as I worked at cartridge world I had people asking me all the time can you fix my printer? I'm like all I know how to do is refill them. I can tell what brand takes what type of ink. I can tell you how to refill a cartridge your self. I can tell you anything about a dam ink cartridge. But when it comes to fixing a printer it's an entirely different ball game... After I explain this to many customers 80% of the time they come in the following day with the printer and say the cartridge is bad. So we use their printer to run a test after doing a simple reset and using one of our custom OS laptops to operate the printer to validate that nothing is wrong with the cartridge. Even ran some test prints and did an alignment.. They get home call us... It's not working. (I answered the phone) I say well theirs nothing wrong with the cartridge or the printer sir. So it's either user error or your computer. 100% of the time it's user error... Update: And if it's not user error then you have not been maintaining it like it says to in the manual. In which case still is user error... And yes if storing a printer take the precautions the manual tells you to take.. Update 3: The custom OS laptop is really a slimmed down XP pro SP3... Yes really... Update2: a few months ago my bosses thought it would be a great idea to do computer repair. (WE have no one qualified to do it we didn't have a pricing planned out etc..) 3 months after that I quit.. (still have no one qualified)

http://www.speedtest.net/result/4443783789.png My ping was lower I'll need to check my settings and see if I can get it lower...

Ya but he had ordered that IDE new...not used........ I didn't know WD even made IDE's anymore. No sadly I don't. I tried but he got angry unfortunately. We did need to replace the motherboard tho... and some cables, and clean up the GPU. And ya... just so much went wrong with that. this was last year too..

Okay so a friend of mine wanted to build a computer by him self. (He has zero experience he's only seen me build them that's it...) So I order most of the parts and he orders the power supply and hard drive.. I had everything shipped to his house it was all their in June the 15th... He calls me June the 25th... Sooo kyle, I have tried to put this dam blasted crap together a thousand times now and I just can't fiqure it out like where does the CD even go in at? And blah blah blah... I couldn't stop laughing half way threw. So I get their at his house and I'm looking at this disaster on the floor... (HORRIFIED) The Hard drive was for an IDE cable... (WHERE DID HE EVEN FIND AN IDE HARD DRIVE???) the sata cables where crammed into the hard drive like he had bought more because he said their was still pins left over... (face palmed) The GPU was in the bottom slot at least it was in a GPU slot... The fans where duck-tapped on... The CPU cooler had no paste on it (he used it when inserting the GPU....) Was told by one of his friends I guess that it would help slide it in..... The power supply was not even in the case he tapped it to the top... I don't even know how the cables managed to reach... I mean I could go on... but I'm just gonna let you figure the rest out...

That looks sexy... where has this baby been all my life? :wub: (COUGH**) Anyway I would recommend a MICRO ATX motherboard only. Because it says it only supports that type of motherboard.. http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio/pc-o6s/

Try seeing if it will post without the GPU in it. If it does update BIOS

Whatever if you want to risk dying not my problem... Electrical problems are not something to brush aside buddy..

Guys he will be good for another 4 years. Maybe even 5. Lets face it video games have not gotten more demanding and their not gonna get any-better until they sort out this mantle and direct x crap which will take 5 years with those idiots... The ONLY thing that's gotten more demanding is display resolution and amount of Cores your CPU has that's it.. If he stay at 1080p then ya 5 years. 1440p 3 years at not max settings.. 4k ya you'll need better GPU... Right now tho I would recommend getting a SSD as boot device tho... (once you go SSD you wont wanna go back ever...)

Dude...I just don't even know what to say about that.

Naaa I think it looks fine.. Hehehe.. Please select one of my posts as an answer!

http://www.roccat.org/us-en/Home/Overview/makes some pretty stiff buttons. Unfortunately they just switched to some stupid shipping thing or whatever and now only ship to like a select few of states...

Try defragging your HDD that should help may take a long time to do on a 1tb drive.. I would recommend partitioning that drive to 2 500gig so that it performs better.

Ya I would mess around with the jumpers those are tricky sometimes. I usually have one master and other CS (cable select.) Master should be the one on the last end of the ribbon cable. And just set the other to slave. If that doesn't work try CS on the end and the second (one inbetween motherboard and hdd) to slave.