iiNNeX

The O11 mini is a great case, do it!

I use a Fractal North and have a huge air cooler.

Yep fully agree with PDifolco above, don't overpay for motherboard and cpu. Sure 13900k is nice but in real world day to day, a 13600/700k is exactly the same. You can even tune the 6000 CL32 memory down to CL30 and gain a little extra performance for 0 cost.

Repaste and refit cooler, double check fan speeds. That said, the 5800X3D is supposed to run a bit hotter than the 5800X despite drawing less power due to the 3D cache design. For both CPUs, AMD said they are safe up to 90C. These CPUs are smart, if you hit 90C they will try their absolute best to still maintain their turbo speed without activating the throttle button.

Those temps are generally observed under benchmarking though, NFS Heat is not a CPU-intensive game generally but who knows...

The 13900K does not thermal throttle under any normal circumstances. Running CB23 is not considered a normal use case. And even so, it can run 95-100C while still maintaining 5.5 all (p) core. Not to mention pairing with actual high speed memory, which AMD will most likely take 1-2 more generations to reach, ect.. Not trying to sway your opinion, just make sure you consider all options carefully as its' a big outleigh especially if you don't upgrade often.

On another point, after reading your OP you appear to believe these engineers are "morons" for designing it this way. Well, have a watch of this and see how you feel:

No stick to 3600. Lower the CAS the better.

There is also IMC silicone lottery to consider, most chips wont run 4000 with 1:1 Infinity fabric to match.

If you want to avoid MSI then just go with ROG CROSSHAIR X670E Hero and you ll be happy. Good board with good feature set and no doubt will have bios updates to support new gen cpus as they release.

If you take 4 months to notice such amount of money "missing", then it's on you. Google is at fault perhaps, but the dude is a tool sorry.

I run 4000 CL15 on a 12th gen cpu fine, however this is largely the upper limit (some very lucky silicon people can do 4200-4400, but not many). I am unsure how 13th gen scales with ddr4 but I have doubts it will run that speed.

Also don't worry about voltage, my kit runs at 1.5v daily and has been for months, it's not a problem. Just have a well ventilated case so sticks don't go above 50C.

Looks good to me man, although I'd personally go AIO instead of the tower cooler, 360mm at least as well given how how these chips run. 

Rest of the config is spot on for your usecase.

17 minutes ago, Shimejii said:

Im going to be honest, Your argument may be one of the dumbest things you have said with what you have in your description. You dont care about future proofing, you just buy whats the fastest when it becomes available, dont try saying its about future proofing when thats clearly not it. Dont say its one thing when you are clearly doing it for something else, as that is not really helpful to anyone.

 

My suggestion was based on his requirements, not my own. OP mentioned he had no clear budget in sight and that he wanted to not touch anything for 2-4 years.

I upgrade to the latest and greatest because I can. Maybe one day you could too

Peace

If you want futureproof, 13900k and 4090 is the way to go. It's what im swapping to as soon as they are out, especially for 4K RTX gaming at max settings.

I personally cannot wait for this, power consumption and heat do not faze me at all (and anyone buying a top tier enthusiast product wouldn't either), so it would be cool to see if 6ghz all P core is possible with custom cooling. 

For 13th gen 4000 series build I think I shall get a MORA 420 Pro as 360mm AIOs wont cut it lol.

Perhaps reach out to them and ask if they can make you one? It won't be cheap but then again, no build in that case would be.

no

Also make sure you undervolt that CPU and optimise memory timings. Even on a 360mm rad, stock bios settings push 12th gen chips in 100C territory when running the likes of CB23, OCCT ect.

Happy to help you with that via DM if you prefer down the line.

Yes I agree. I have tested my 3090 thoroughly for the last week or so, in various benchmarks and games and basically there are two things that really matter:

- Temperature (this can literally be the difference of 1950mhz or 2060mhz due to how Nvidia's boost table works)

- Power Limit and Voltage

When doing benches I could go as far as +150 core and +1300 memory, on the likes of TimeSpy, TS Extreme, Firestrike ect. However, it would crash in most games that way.

Also boost clock (on paper) and game clock are very different things, as different type of load will ultimately give you different frequency. Quake RTX for example maxes out my power at around 435-450W, while only boosting to 1920 ish, yet in BF 2042 power stays around 360-380 and boost clock goes above 2k. This is all aircooled with good fans and solid airflow orientated case. Watercooling is a different story.

Best settings I found for better than stock while more efficient for me (daily use), was 1950mhz @0.975mv and +1000 on memory. Some people can achieve this with as low as 0.88mv but that is just silicone lottery at play there

There is a video that shows the benefits and how to do it here:

Get the Freezer II 360, with the offset AMD mounting bracket it kept my heavily overclocked 5950x I had before, rather cool. 82C was max temp I saw after 2 hours of torture in Cinebench R23. This was using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste in a Meshify 2 with good quality fans all around (no need for push pull on AIO but do it if you have the space). Arctic's own fans are better than most aftermarket fans out there so don't swap them unless its for higher static pressure ones.

8 hours ago, TexasBulldog74 said:

I know their hands are tied but its just not worth it on top of them taking 12.9% sale fee off the top.  Thats absurd.  as for paying TAX on something I already paid TAX on is not something i'll willingly do ever again and will do everything I can to avoid it.

 

I'll throw the equipment away before i let the Government double dip taxing me twice to just send it to Ukraine or some woke BS.

It's probably very different to you lot in the state, but here in the UK Ebay is completely fine (no taxes ect). Yes they have the 12.9% fee however almost every 2 weeks there is a 80% less fee listing weekend or sometimes even maximum 1p (aka 1 cent) offer. I used those exclusively and all my hardware sells super fast, as Ebay has the widest audience out of any of these sites.

Sure FB Marketplace is technically speaking bigger as most people are on FB, however I find it horrible to use and you have to deal with weirdos lowballing you

Reinstall is the best way forward.

Best pastes right now for reasonable money are Kingpin KPX and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (or Extreme if you want to spend a bit more).

Arctic, EK and Noctua are ok too but below the above.

I DDU every single time I swap a card, even if it's from the same family or even model.

Takes a minute to do it, it's a no brainer.

32GB 3600 - 4000 CL16 is what you want. Low latency fast ram makes a difference in many aspects, whether gaming or overall system snappiness. Don't skimp on it is my advice, however it will all depend on budget ultimately. 

There is literally 0 reason for this 'metaverse'. Waste of resources honestly, if anything it will make people even more anti-social...

I was one of the original posters of this issue back in 2016 I think it was, on the nvidia/geforce forums. I have decided to pop back here and report that it is still present, very much so regardless of res or new components (5950x / 3080ti on 1440p and on my 4k OLED, no difference).

I would never cheap out on a PSU, and while Seasonic is a top brand the Focus series have been quite problematic for people (according to online reviews). Can you get a Corsair or EVGA Gold/Platinum unit for decent money where you are?