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Mindstab Thrull

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About Mindstab Thrull

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4770K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Z87-WS
  • RAM
    Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 2x8GB DDR3-1600
  • GPU
  • Case
    Rosewill Blackhawk Midtower
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 500GB SSD; Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200rpm
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 750W 80PLUS Gold fully modular
  • Display(s)
    ASUS VX248H 24" 1ms 1920x1080 LCD
  • Keyboard
    ROCCAT Ryos MK Cherry Blue
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga Hex wired USB gaming mouse
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Home 64-bit

Recent Profile Visitors

691 profile views
  1. The machine I currently work on (where I'm typing this post right now) seems to work fine in general. However, I've recently got into a particular game on my Android phone to the point where I've installed Bluestacks and have three (!) instances of it running on my PC, giving me three accounts for the game. With one instance my computer is fine, but with all three open my PC tends to lag. (Note I tend to leave them open all the time, which might be part of the issue as well.) As a result I'm looking to update to a newer system, with more cores, threads, and faster memory. At this point I'm running on an i7-4770k with 12GB of DDR3, and I'm considering either a Ryzen 5 2600 or 2600X, or a 2700X (all three currently in the 150-250 CAD range) and 16 GB of DDR4-3200 (Team's T-FORCE Vulcan Z kit is currently $100). Ideally I want to keep it under C$450 for CPU/RAM/mobo; the rest of the hardware I have is currently fine for now. Suggestions for a decent motherboard would be appreciated. I'm mostly seeing the X parts because they tend to start at higher clocks, and I don't really overclock much. From what I'm picking up, more cores/threads also seems to be more relevant over faster cores. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Mindstab Thrull Nomming ur sanities since 1837 BSE (Before the Sarpadian Empires)
  2. Wait.. is he from Vancouver, BC, or Vancouver, WA? (Cheek, meet tongue...) Mindstab Thrull
  3. I think 15" would probably be enough to get started. Thing is, the machine can always be replaced once enough money has come in from work. I personally am only expecting this machine to be needed once she's hired for maybe a year or so for this task. Mindstab Thrull
  4. That says it's $1100 and I presume that's USD. Maybe I should have mentioned in the main body as well as the topic that I was looking at Canadian dollars (comes to roughly 750 US), so a bit more than I was looking to spend. Do you have any suggestions on brands or lines to avoid? Also I find that when I search for other stuff, it's hard to narrow down options on eBay (eg show me the laptops on this list that have an i5 and cut out the rest). Maybe I am just bad at eBay
  5. So I have a friend attending college for trades (welding to start) and at some point is going to need to pick up a laptop for industrial graphic design work for when she finishes her course next year. Any suggestions on models or lines to look into? Dedicated graphics is a necessity here. EDIT: The $1000 in the topic is Canadian dollars, which at the current rate of exchange is approximately $750 US. Thanks Mindstab Thrull
  6. If you really want it OFF off, you have two main options: 1. Check the Power Supply. Most have a switch which will cut power to the PSU altogether. This means when you shut down your PC, you'll need to hit the power button at the back of the computer as well. 2. Plug your computer into a power strip or something similar. This is similar to #1, as pressing the power button on here will cut power to the computer altogether. There are other things to check as well, such as whether Windows or a BIOS setting are involved in keeping power going. I'd start with shutting down the PSU after the OS has shut down first though.
  7. I don't count MIR's myself because sometimes there's a lot of difficulty actually getting it properly processed from what I've seen. I'm also probably looking at a couple more weeks before I pick it up, so if it's on sale then I should be good (it'll also be closer to Christmas so that might help). In case it got missed, here's the chassis in question: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/LvnG3C/fractal-design-case-fdcacore500bk
  8. Erk, ok. So in that case I should stick with the CX450M instead. That helps a lot. As that's about $70, if there's one that's not much more expensive and happens to be on sale when I go to pick it up, which one should I be looking for?
  9. Closest I see is the 500W MasterWatt at https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=569_33_1238_442&item_id=109057 Though the 600W seems to be the same price at this point? https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=569_33_1238_442&item_id=109062 All three seem to be the same price currently - $70 each. Considering the 600W and the 500W are the same price, I guess it's between the 600W Masterwatt and the CX450M. Apart from the extra wattage headroom (not necessary for this build), is there any reason to take the Masterwatt over the Corsair?
  10. Thanks, went and picked it up this weekend. My primary local computer shop is Canada Computers. If I'm just looking for a fairly low-wattage PSU (say 500W is probably more than I need) at Bronze, do you have a specific recommendation (or a couple)? I don't know PSU's well enough to be able to tell which PSU I should grab just by reading the table.
  11. So I've nearly got my living room computer built. I'm down to needing the CPU and the PSU at this point. At this point I'm at PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX X470-I GAMING Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard $255.62 @ Mike's Computer Shop Memory G.Skill - Aegis 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $80.99 @ Newegg Canada Storage ADATA - XPG SX6000 256 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $64.99 @ Canada Computers Case Fractal Design - Core 500 Mini ITX Desktop Case $80.99 @ PC-Canada Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $482.59 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-16 21:19 EST-0500 Trying to decide which Ryzen CPU to use, thinking of going with the 2400. Plan on adding a dedicated GPU later but I want decent gaming performance out of the box. Any suggestions? I do also plan on adding a mechanical hard drive for storage as well as an optical drive (and a second stick of memory) eventually, but realistically I can't imagine this thing pulling more than 500W, probably less than 400. Are higher 80 PLUS ratings actually worth it at that point, or am I spending more on Gold than I really need to?
  12. I want a good gaming machine but something upgradable, so starting off with maybe a Ryzen 2600, 8GB RAM (eventually 16). The graphics card is yet to be determined but it's probably going to be closer to Christmas when I get one. Still hacking out the actual specs.
  13. If you use ca.partpicker.com it goes to Canadian. However, they removed Canada Computers from their list some time ago, and what's available elsewhere isn't necessarily available there. Agree with EVGA; JonnyGuru even likes the non-rated.. I think it was a 400W? power supply that EVGA has. Sure. If I'm looking at higher wattages, it's mostly because of the fanless modes available.
  14. Working on an ITX build, picking up parts piece by piece. Hope to have it built by the end of the year. Currently I have the case (Fractal Design Core 500) and the motherboard (Asus ROG STRIX X470-I Gaming), looking for a power supply for it. The computer is going to be my version of a console - something to put into the living room, doesn't take up a lot of space, for playing games and doing other stuff. I'm looking for something rated 80 PLUS Gold or higher, with a healthy warranty (minimum 5 years - the longer, the better), but I don't see putting a beastly GPU in it, so 700 Watts is more than adequate, and I'm probably only looking that high if it has a fanless mode at lower loads. Also, I pick up my stuff at Canada Computers - there's at least two that are really easy for me to get to. Ideally under C$100, but if it's not much higher, that's fine. Any recommendations?
  15. My point is that if you get an 80 PLUS unit, you'll ensure you're not getting a "dollar store" unit which could fail at any time. While the 80 PLUS rating itself doesn't mean you're going to have a "quality" PSU, what it does mean is that in order to pass, you have to use better quality components than a $15 PSU does in order to come up with those efficiencies. I was responding to @xriqn's "suggested build" that had a low-end case with included PSU (Logisys). If a person doesn't know the difference between who is a good manufacturer and who isn't, and what models to use or not use, saying "get one with an 80 PLUS rating" is a reasonable and importantly simple starting point until they can learn more about PSUs, to make sure they're not getting something that can explode the moment they plug it in. In other words, if a person doesn't know a lot about them, saying "get an 80 PLUS PSU" will get them a decent unit more often than not so they don't have to worry about frying their system right away. That can be built upon later. I'm not going to tell them to "always get brand X unless it's model Q but Q version N is ok" right off the bat.