MichaelGavel

Did not find any integrity violations At this point I'm stumped. Would it be worth removing the GPU and seeing if the issue occurs on integrated graphics? (Edit) and too add during the Win repair process it often comes back that it cant repair it and sometimes mentions something along the lines of system32/str/strorigin

**Computer Specs at the bottom** Issue Analysis: - My PC is freezing randomly during almost anything: games, videos, desktop though it most commonly occurs if the screen saver turns on. - Strangely, it's just the display; the sound of VOIPs, games, etc continues though is sometimes there is glitched audio during the freeze. - I use the power button to shutdown and restart but the PC will not display unless I flip off the power supply off and hold power to drain the system. - Sometimes after several tries it could restart sometimes after one. - I believe the PC is still functioning even when not displaying after these reboots as windows repair comes up from the multiple reboot attempts and my RGB keyboard switches to the custom software profile still. Troubleshooting Attempts: Resting hardware clock speeds Disabled WIn10 fast reboot in power options Thought to uninstall wallpaper engine though the booting issue has me thinking otherwise Unplugging unnecessary USB devices during rebooting process Replacing 1 DP cable with a 'Certified' one. (Idek how to tell though honestly) and tried only booting with that cable Reseeding and removing/reseeding 1of2 RAM sticks, the PC rebooted right away after both removing and reseeding the RAM stick in A2 though booting and the same issues occurred w/ or w/o it . HALP, and thank you - Mike CPU: Intel 4790K MOBO: ASROCK Z97 ITX/AC-(E?) RAM: 2x8GB DDR3 Crucial 1600 GPU: Gigabyte G1 GTX 970 BOOT: 128GB Crucial SSD HDD: 2x1TB Seagate Barracuda PSU: Corsair HX650 Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX Fans: 1x200mm 1x140mm LED USB devices: Blue Snowball, Razer capture card, mouse, and keyboard, XB1 Controller, Logitech Webcam, sometimes cellphones for charging, (line-in speakers/headphones) Montiors: MonoPrice 27" 144hz 1440p VA over DP and Dell 24" 60hz 1080p TN over DP to HDMI converter. Sides note: I've also left the Wifi Antenna unplugged as i use Ethernet.

Here is part list link. I understand it is pricey but it is rather top line and within your specified budget. This PC will do the task at hand and more for long time to come. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/P6dpxr If you it's too much cost wise or you don't think you'll need this type of performance there are changes that can be easily made to accommodate. *Side note* I also don't care for the case much. It looks nice, but the air flow is lacking. This is no major issue technically but I wanted you to be aware.

You have a major problem here. That motherboard and CPU are not compatible. The socket types must match and that CPU is a 2011 socket and the motherboard is 1151. If you want to keep this processor you'll need a X99 chipset motherboard. Or you'll need a LGA 1151 socket CPU like an i7-6700k in order to keep the motherboard. For rendering IMO I would choose an i7 for the hyperthreading to help cut down on the render times and help multitasking. Since you're using working station cpu it also won't be coming with a cpu cooler and you'll need to invest in one of those so you won't fry your system. You may want to consider changing the power supply since to a more dependable one since you're going to have some major hardware load on it. You may also want to consider getting more RAM than 16GB depending on the size of the work you will be doing with 3D programs. Lastly a single 500GB is not going to get you very far for storing raw videos and photos. It will be great to work from it while using the program but you should definitely look into mass storage like a couple terabytes mechanical drive. I'll post another reply with a revised parts list and see what you think. if you have any questions feel free to fire away.

I rebuilt my system about 2 months ago. It's been working fine since I initially built it until a few weeks ago. When I turn on the PC all the fans, lights, hdd, etc all power on but display appears. I tried a couple of troubleshoots and it worked again letting an reset the bios defaults and use the PC for another 2 days, but now no post occurs once again so I can not even enter the bios. After trying options like unplugging drives and removing a stick of ram to see if the enter bios prompt will appear but no such luck. The peripheral back lighting used to turn on even with no display before but even they don't anymore. I don't believe this issue to be with the graphics card but I'm gonna try to trouble shoot it while I wait for a reply. I also don't think it's the psu since all other componets power on even the fans that are plugged into the Mobo fan headers. I'm pretty sure I'll have to warranty rma it, but I'm looking for a second opinion before I start the process. Thanks, Mike. Specs CPU i7-4790k (no OC) MOBO ASRock Z97/E-ITX/AC Cooler Noctua NH-D15 RAM 2x8GB Crucial Sport 1600 DDR3 GPU Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 PSU Corsair HX650 Case Phanteks Enthoo ITX Storage 1 Crucial m500 120GB SSD 2 Segate 1TB 7200rpm HDD And one additional case fan corsair 120mm blue led air flow fan

I currently have a 120GB crucial SSD and I'm going to be moving my system to a ITX size and the new motherboard for this build will have an M.2 slot on it. If I wanted to say get an M.2 SSD and use it as my boot drive for my OS (which is currently located on the aforementioned SSD) is there a way that I can clone my entire SSD (program, OS, files, etc) over to the M.2 drive so I won't have to go through the whole deal with reinstalling windows, programs, or possibly having to get my software keys reset?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/GDTtjX This is what i quickly threw together and I believe would serve as a great introduction into PC gaming. The CPU is an i5 4460 that can handle more than a great amount of modern games and other computing functions you may also use the PC for. The GPU is an AMD R9 380 by sapphire it has 4GB of VRAM and should be fast enough to handle most things you throw at it very well at 1080p with varying setting depending on the game. This also has both an SSD for your OS and programs as well as a 1TB HDD for your games to be stored on. I have also factored in the cost of OS on disk(which will require the purchasing of a cheap $15 optical drive) but you can also install windows via a boot-able flash drive (which will save you from purchasing an optical drive) If you find yourself liking PC gaming you can easily swap the graphics card in this system for a higher-end to get better performance in modern games as well as ones to come. The community here is great at making systems, so hear them out too and weigh your options. Welcome to the master race and have fun man, Mike.

It'll take some researching but benchmarks are a good way to look at hard numbers of performance vs price. Most people use 3DMark, but for a quick look over I usually go to http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html *EDIT* The numbers are a bit arbitrary as to what games you will or won't be able to run at high settings since every game is different in how taxing it is on your system and they only tell you the speed of the processing unit inside the card. Games like GTA require a fast card with good amount of VRAM (video card memory) to keep the large open world running smoothly. While other games like Metro Last Light have taxing textures in game that use VRAM. For games like SWBF they have tons of lighting and particle effects as well many other graphic intense processes that require the speed of the card to be up to par to keep the frames high.*EDIT* 700-800 is a much more flexible budget to work with and can make a lot of difference, it's also important to factor in the cost of OS (which I assume is Windows) When it comes to gaming I started on console as well and spend most of time there until I got a proper gaming PC. PC is a very open experience to gaming since you can use countless number of peripherals like mouse/key, controller (xbox and ps are supported) and just in general has a lot more to offer over the console counterparts in communities, modding, game prices, and performance. Believe me, wanting 60fps max settings will begin to become a NEED more than a WANT very quickly once you become accustomed to it haha. So I believe the increased budget is worth it.

First, I'm sorry to inform you that you won't be running any games at 1440p with that GPU and no AAA games like SWBF with that CPU. The 750ti is an okay GPU, but it's a low-end card. So it runs things like League, TF2, and other non-taxing titles fine at 1080p, but games like SWBF will need to be set to lower resolutions and lower setting to get even 30fps with lower settings. To run games, especially modern ones, at that resolution you'll need a high-end GPU. Or to run them at 1080p (a fine option) you'll want at least something mid-range for modern titles to run around medium settings. The i3 is a dual core(w/ hyper-threading) but does not perform like a quad-core the same way an i7 doesn't perform like an 8 core. CPUs, while not as crucial in many cases as a GPU, are still a vital part of a system when playing games and can be a bottleneck resulting in lower frames. A quad-core such as a core i5 or amd equivalent are recommended. Personally I'm an intel person but AMD has amazing price to performance. Lastly your system lacks a massive storage option. Games take a lot of space and while SSDs are fast they're more commonly used as storage for your OS and programs/games that have long loading times. A 1TB HDD will go long way and are fairly priced. To further help you I and the rest of the community here will want to know your budget for building this system to further help you get the best performance for your dollar in our opinions. From what I can tell it appears to be a low, so in my opinion the best case may be to give yourself more time to increase your budget so that you may get an adequate gaming experience with modern titles. Hope we can help, Mike P.S. http://pcpartpicker.com/ is a great place to go to compare system parts and prices as well as check out other builds for reference. Once you have a build together post the perma-link from the upper left so we can review it without the need for you to type it all out in the post.

Phantek's Evolv ITX is the best IMO. It's almost no compromise for an ITX size case. - It can fit a Noctua NH-D15 and a Gigabyte G1 card. - It has a easy mount bracket for a 120mm radiator and custom water cooling support like reservoir and pump mounts as well as modular storage options through out the case. - It even looks awesome to boot, has a 200mm fan in the front w/ a fan hub for other case fans for great airflow and a basement for cable management with a cutaway to show off your power supply if you want.

^^This guy has your answer^^

What resolution you playing at? If you're playing at 1080 and overclocking I say get the 970, but look into the price of a Gigabyte G1 in your country. The cooler on it gets some great overclocks and its board is widely supported by water cooling block manufacturers for down the line if you ever decided to switch to that. As for which build the 1st seems better to me IMO. For gaming a haswell refresh still does very well and with that you get 16GB of RAM and an HDD to store your games right away.

I don't know how well these prices will carry over to your country (I'm in the US) but here's the only notable suggestion I can make: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-BOXDZ77GAL-70K-1155-HDMI-Motherboard/dp/B00AQNWYM8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452664201&sr=8-2&keywords=z77+motherboard It's an Intel brand Z77 board in mATX factor, it has 4 RAM slots (although IDK if your processor supports that, check Intel's ARK website) plenty of PCI lanes, 4 USB 3.0 ports, dual LAN, and more for $160 USD. And yes, and Z class chipset should allow overclocking of your CPU. Hope you have a decent cooler. It's pretty hard to find decent pricing on Z77 boards since they're very outdated now, anything that is hasn't been unboxed is currently very overpriced and to be honest this board is too for its age. I don't know how you feel about used components but that may be the best place to find what you're looking for at a reasonable price. To give an example of what I mean I found this Asus MAXIMUS V GENE Z77 mATX board for $200 USD in the used section on the US amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Asus-MAXIMUS-GENE-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B007RIFJPY/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1452664939&sr=1-4&keywords=z77+motherboard&refinements=p_n_condition-type%3A2224373011 Happy hunting to you - Mike

Actually, I think he's right. The case fan 2 head is below and to the left of the CPU socket and only has a 3 pin header. The low noise adapter or finding another 4 pin fan header on your MOBO will probably be your answer.

Phantek's Enthoo mATX http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854009&cm_re=enthoo_matx-_-11-854-009-_-Product Although I prefer their Mini ITX version http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854015&cm_re=enthoo_itx-_-11-854-015-_-Product You might also wanna look at the new Corsair Spec Alpha case https://youtu.be/PXeUhNqie34?t=3m19s