JamesDwho

Well alternatively you could import them into Gimp then Copy and Paste the document area into Paint, then save as .tiff

Go to File, then Save as and select TIFF

You can Import PDF documents into Gimp then save them as .tiff files http://www.gimp.org/

You should be able to run it at a higher resolution, do you have your video card drivers up to date?

This is close, according to Dell's website it has VESA mounting support http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-S2740L-Widescreen-Monitor-1920x1080/dp/product-description/B009HM56MY/ref=dp_proddesc_0?ie=UTF8&n=340831031&s=computers http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-s2740l/pd

Around September last year EA did the exact same thing with Battlefield 3 videos. Flagged videos feature ads for Battlefield 3 Premium. (cue the slick EA meme)

Have you tried doing a Full System Scan in Safe Mode, and do you have the same internet issues in "Safe Mode With Networking"

This post on the mycrysis forums might be of help, someone with a similar issue. http://secure.mycrysis.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=42398&p=441202

Are you running it in DX9 or DX11 Mode?

Do you have any fans plugged into the motherboard, do they power up?

Often mSATA SSD's are more expensive than normal 2.5" SSD's, also if you ever wanted to use the mSATA SSD with another system you would need to get an Adapter to connect it to regular SATA data and Power

I've never had issues logging into a Machine via Remote Desktop Connection at startup, try checking your Remote Desktop Connection services in the Services Utility in Administrative Tools. Make sure they aren't set to the wrong user or disabled

Yes that should work, for just general storage I wouldn't choose a 5400rpm drive, 7200rpm 1TB+ drives are pretty cheap these days

You should be able to load the Bios Update .ROM File onto a USB drive and update through the BIOS at startup

Do you have a motherboard speaker handy? listening to the beep codes might help diagnose the issue

73ºC is normal for a Video Card under load, I'd start getting a little concerned if it started push 85ºC+

I have a lower tier non Modem version of that Router (WNDR4000) and I haven't had any problems. What sort of Wireless Standard does your computer have, ie. 802.11g 802.11n etc. If you're running an 802.11g device you might need to upgrade to a Wireless 802.11n Network Adapter. Another thing you could try is changing the Wireless Network "Channel". By change the channel value you can try and avoid a lot of interference that the 2.4Ghz has. A Good way to check for wifi interference is by downloading an App Called 'Wifi Analyzer'. There are similar programs like it for the PC such as 'Xirrus Wi-fi Inspector'

Australia is quite big so it does vary a lot, most areas have access to ADSL services and speeds tend to vary from 20Mbps Down to 2 Mbps depending on where the telephone exchange is. At the moment the Australian Labor Government is rolling out the "NBN" or National Broadband Network which involves covering 93% of Australia's population with Fibre optic broadband to the Home, the remaining parts of the country are covered by high speed wireless and satellite technologies. At the moment you can get 100Mbps Down 40Mbps Up Plans with the NBN Fibre to the Home, from December NBN areas will have access to 1Gbps Down 400 Megabits Up. My Internet Speed

As long as your modem/router is located in a relatively cool and well ventilated area it should be fine. Though I have often found on hot aussie summer days that my modem and router tend to have more disconnection issues than normal.

I have nothing good to say about Telstra, I'm in the process of completely switching over to internode atm. Much better value for money. As for other good providers I would be happy with anyone but Telstra or Optus.

Kirks Creaming Soda after that Coke

Hadn't heard about this, it's definitely going to knock out a lot of the sub $100 power supply market and with it a lot of decent low wattage power supplies. It will be interesting to see what happens to case manufactures that try to include low end power supplies with their cases. "Red War Cube" I would spend a bit more money on a more popular power supply brand like Corsair, SeaSonic, Antec, Thermaltake etc.

it sounds like the motherboards power saving settings are enabled, look for these things in the BIOS, the names might be slightly different CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) Enables or disables Intel CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) function, a CPU power-saving function in system halt state. When enabled, the CPU core frequency and voltage will be reduced during system halt state to decrease power consumption. C3/C6 State Support Allows you to determine whether to let the CPU enter C3/C6 mode in system halt state. When enabled, the CPU core frequency and voltage will be reduced during system halt state to decrease power consumption. The C3/C6 state is a more enhanced power-saving state than C1. CPU EIST Function Enables or disables Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology (EIST). Depending on CPU loading, Intel EIST technology can dynamically and effectively lower the CPU voltage and core frequency to decrease average power consumption and heat production.

The Windows product key used to active both retail and OEM copies gets tied down to specific hardware of your system, if you use your hard drive from your laptop odds almost definitely are that 1. it won't boot into windows on the new system as the laptop drivers are installed and will cause a blue screen, 2. Windows will not activate because the product key for it is tied down to the hardware spec of the Laptop. Furthermore most laptop hard drives are very low performance with most being around 5400rpm vs 7200rpm+ with desktop hard drives. You can get 1TB Desktop HDD's for about $70-$100, OEM copies of Windows 7 Home Premium are about $100 as well.

I just use Windows Media Player 12 with the K Lite codec Pack, plays basically every format and looks nice, not like stock VLC