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Posts posted by 0ld_Chicken
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-Thread moved to the Audio section-
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I like it but the front looks damaged to me. Like "it got left in a pile on the floor and walked on" damaged
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3 hours ago, CoolMarquis97 said:
I always assumed that you only really tell the difference you make the jump from something like 60hz to 120hz. Your right though, my monitor would be a waste if I didn't pair it with a good graphics card. I'll probably end up getting a 1080.
I would, maybe even Ti if possible (I did). 1440p/144hz is a lot to drive and while you won't always get 144hz, it really is nice to get as close as you can as every fps makes it a little smoother and less blurry. Gsync does help things quite a bit in the lower fps range, it makes the dips much less noticeable but you'll still want as much power as you can afford to get that buttery smooth goodness!
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8 hours ago, kitsune1324 said:
Good to know. Unfortunately it looks like the only silver I can get is the v2 mix..Any ideas where I can find newer formula's?
The premix I got from performance-pcs.com a few months ago is v4, you should be able to email or call them and ask to make sure you'll receive V4. Otherwise you can order straight from Mayhems.co.uk and surely they would have the newest ones available. I've looked at shipping a few times and it's always really close in total price to ppcs.
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12 hours ago, kitsune1324 said:
Wow, that sucks, it looks so pretty! Good info on finding the version, I'll try and look for v4 if I go with aurora again. Is silver auroroa the aurora concentrate? I don't think it is but that'd be interesting to mix in with other coolants. Unfortunately my time frame does not line up with getting v5, it'll happen for me sometime in the future though.
They have silver in concentrate and premix. I wouldn't mix it with any other coolants though, dyes would be fine though.
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2 hours ago, Vigilante505 said:
Isn't that fluid just for show? I thought it clogged up the system which is why I didn't get it. Love the look.
I've never had issues with it "clogging" anything but the particles do settle anywhere they can, mostly dead spots in the loop and between surfaces like threads of fittings. I've had it last anywhere from a week to 4 months depending on the loop. Its a pain but SO beautiful!
- Lord Nicoll and Vigilante505
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7 minutes ago, kitsune1324 said:
Thankfully it lasted much longer than expected.
I was thinking about a white pastel coolant, but after reading reviews a lot of people were saying i stains your loop. An aurora silver might be cool, I'll see if I can find some videos/pics of it. Have you had any issues with your blue aurora coolant?
oh yeah, the loop from my profile pic failed within a week or two like W-L said. I've had other loops since then do a little better but it's been hit and miss for me depending on the loop. I think the best I've gotten was about 4 months but that was a huge loop with some valves and trickery involved. They're up to v4 now, they removed it from the actual title (no more Aurora 2) it's now just noted on the corner of the bottle. I've got some grey aurora but I haven't opened it yet, not sure if I want to go down that road again since I don't think it will fair well in the loop I'm building (too many 90's and fittings)
Also, Mick (Mayhems head honcho) said this recently on OCN
QuoteWe have a new way of making aurora work how ever i need access to some equipment at CPI to try some atom replacing. If we can crack it i think we can make a permanent Aurora with larger flecks. How ever CPI are dragging there heals atm on another project were working with them on.
C'mon V5!
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23 minutes ago, W-L said:
Hmm still a good improvement from the first generation of it, I remember stories about it settling out in a day and having the particles disappearing somewhere in the loop after a few weeks.
Indeed!
If you're having decent performance from aurora I'd use silver aurora since everything is rgb. If you want to get away from aurora id try something clear or maybe white pastel
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2 hours ago, Vigilante505 said:
Whats kryonaut/hydronaut?
And also, what fluid is that in your avatar?
what he said lol
2 hours ago, Lord Nicoll said:Kyronaut is a thermal compound that aside from performing fantastically, is used with cryogenics for extreme overclocking, hydronaut is similar but a more budget friendly option for people who are never going LN2 and just want the performance. The fluid from this posters loop looks like Mayhems Aurora supernova with a blue dye, probably Mayhems deep blue.
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Definitely don't do it if your cooler or any contact surface is aluminum, the LM will eat right into it. I tried using some on my 980 waterblock (aquacomputer kryographics) and saw basically no difference over something like kyronaut or hydronaut
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-Thread moved to New Builds and Planning-
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1 hour ago, KillSwitch87 said:
Just so I get this straight (because I don't usually have backups so don't want a dead drive ) if I mount the HDD to the tray and tape the tray to the bottom of the case say under the shroud or somehow on top of the shroud that's ok? How much airflow do these things need anyway?
yeah as long as the tape is working with gravity and not against it, you'll also want to make sure to not get crazy while moving the PC or just remove the drive when you do.
They don't need much airflow, as long as they aren't completely sealed off they should be fine. My 3tb 7200rpm barracuda stays under 40c while between the mobo tray and case back panel with no additional venting or fans whatsoever
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4 minutes ago, KillSwitch87 said:
Not sure if it'll fit in the back of the mobo but it does under the shroud. Can I just tape the drive bays where I wannaput them?
SSD's definitely, they're light and don't damage as easily as HDD. HDD are heavier too so I'd only tape them if they're already sitting flat on a surface.
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I removed all my drive cage locations and just ended up mounting one of the drive sleds to the back of the motherboard tray and my SSD is covering the rear fan spot. Basically just get a little DIY on it and find a spot that fits!
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Do whatever looks good to you. As long as you're using proper in/outlets (if there are any, most blocks/pumps have specified in/outs and rads/res usually don't) you'll be fine. Water temps equalize within the system, especially with only a single component being cooled.
- KillSwitch87, xHadrian and For Science!
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6 minutes ago, Linus_KEK_Tips said:
If it is a dead pump is there a way I can fix it?
There is a way to fix everything! It may be difficult to find replacement parts though and I've never really seen anyone properly fix an AIO. Most people I've seen in that position end up buying a cheap offbrand pump and just adding it into the loop with new tubing. I'd get a cheap air cooler and call it a day
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2 minutes ago, Linus_KEK_Tips said:
If corrosion is a threat can I use vinegar overnight to just de gunk it
vinegar may help get rid of the gunk, but the gunk is coming from the surfaces of the radiator and the cold plate. Eventually they'll corrode straight through until they leak.
Make sure to rinse very well after using vinegar since it's acidic and will only help speed up corrosion if not properly rinsed out or neutralized.
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13 minutes ago, Linus_KEK_Tips said:
hehe never had proof of purchase corsair was being a dick and I just drained it
Been there! Good luck getting it cleaned out. You'll definitely want to get some fluid in there with some heavy anti corrosive properties, auto antifreeze may work in a pinch. Most aio have mixed metals (aluminum and copper/brass) so corrosion will kill it quickly with regular water.
If that 1/2 cup is all that you got out then it might've just been running low on fluid
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10 minutes ago, Linus_KEK_Tips said:
I'm broke.and edit to last post the guy lied how long he had it since the thing came out in mid 2015
could try and warranty it if you haven't voided that by draining it. What AIO is it?
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2 minutes ago, Linus_KEK_Tips said:
The reason i'm doing this is I think there is gunk in the loop stopping flow and causing overheating it is over 3 years old.
It's an AIO right? If so I'd recommend just tossing it and getting another one. After that much time there is likely corrosion taking place from mixed metals and it may not be just a clog.
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I would only ever use something like that for experimental purposes on hardware you can lose without batting an eye, even then I just wouldn't personally. Performance will be subpar and chances of leaks will be much higher than with a good quality block.
Something like a ek Supremacy MX or xspc Raystorm is a MUCH better option IMO. Yeah they cost a lot more, but they're cheap for blocks, look decent and have available replacement parts with REAL performance.
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45 minutes ago, Linus_KEK_Tips said:
My AIO is 38mm thick
I measured an XSPC EX280 (36mm) a while back and it was 225ML (.95 cup) so I'd say that might be a little bit on the low side for your average 280mm rad. How much the particular rad you have needs could vary quite a bit
First loop and not sure if i made a mistake
in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling
Posted
I would redo it if it were me, you really don't know how much is being held behind that compression fitting until you take it apart. Every time I've seen that the one side was all the way over the barb and just under the compression collar. Too risky imo