shibbs

RO/DI water works well, too, as long as you use an antimicrobial, and an anti-corrosion additive is always a good idea, too. I used RO/DI water as my base with my pastel concentrate.

Go with the Vario unit instead of the PWM. I set my Vario and leave it. No issues whatsoever.

Yup. And yes, they're a bit more rare, hence my dilemma finding a keyboard.

As the title states, I want one more keyboard. It has to have: Cherry MX Greens Aluminum case N-key rollover Lights not necessary, but fun. I see the Infinity keyboard on Massdrop, but it's not available pre-assembled with MX Greens. It's a possibility (I'm not horrible at soldering) but I'd prefer something with a warranty, even though I've never needed to warranty a keyboard. If you've got any ideas, I'd appreciate it! Thanks!!

Pretty sure he means J2C Jayz2Cents

Unless you run 90 degree fittings on the top rad, you're not going to get the lines to head forward enough.

Yeah, I just built mine with EK and Bitspower fittings. Bitspower is excellent. Wish I'd had used them throughout, but I don't like the gold logo on them. EK is good, but not quite as "tight" feeling as Bitspower.

This is probably what I'd do. As W-L stated, loop order doesn't matter. Enough flow and you'll hardly be warming the water between components. Try to avoid crossing the lines. I suppose you could exactly reverse the layout I penned, too. /shrug

There's no way you'll get into a custom loop for $100 that looks good. For an AIO, there's plenty of options. And paint is cheap. Any 240mm rad AIO should fit just fine. Find an Asetek core if you can. I've always had great luck with them.

If you're thinking of putting the 240 rad in the front, you're definitely not going to be able to keep your HDD cages. Source: have an R5. I put a 280mm in the front as intake, and a 140 in the back as exhaust. Nothing in the top as I put things on the top of my case. No room for HDD cages. edit: wow, I really hate how the flash makes my motherboard look brown. lol

I'm assuming it's overclocked? What do you have voltage at?

Thanks, @Dealzon. LOVE the Final Fantasy series.

I recommend the EK radiators or Hardware Labs. Both A+ quality.

PWM pumps make bleeding the loop a pain.

This. Mixed metal systems like that are just begging for corrosion issues on ALL parts FAST.

Hm. I think tonight I'll play with the overclock and see how much better/worse it gets if I play with the voltage. I'll see what I can get out of it with a lower voltage somewhere around 1.25 is a nicer number than 1.320.

Take the silver one off and paint it, if you can. Worth a shot, IMO.

Ugh, I really don't want to have to re-bend more lines just to test... haha Really thinking I should have done soft lines. @EK Luc do you have any insight to any of this?

Done everything. Reseated the block, tightened down the pins holding the block and the pins on the motherboard, tried 3 different methods of applying thermal paste, low fans, high fans, low pump, high pump, RODI water, Mayhems Aurora...... All the results are identical. The only thing I can think of is it being the heat spreader and the junk TIM under it from Intel. Maybe 3 years of daily use on a substantial overclock have done it in? It's about the only thing I haven't changed.

Well damn. I ordered Aurora 2, as I was told it's safe to run daily (at least moreso than the original) but you're not the first to say that the Aurora was a dumb choice. Coolant was definitely an afterthought for me. Just my luck that the one thing I don't research about this loop is the thing that blows up in my face. Posting screenshots of my testing anyway. The first picture is when I just got home from work. Cold room, definitely cooler than normal air. Second test is about 5 minutes ago after watching a few YouTube videos, some light gaming and whatnot. See what I mean about INSTANT spiking to 70+? The graph is set to update every 3 seconds for CPU and temps.

You can't even get a quality pump and reservoir for that money. If you want to spend around 100-200, you're looking at an AIO setup. NZXT, Corsair... something like that.

Pump speed is running at max (4900 rpm) even though temps are identical when running at 3000rpm. Running Mayhems Aurora 2 Tharsis Red. (ricer, I know, but dammit it's pretty)

The ports on the block are in the correct order. I tightened the hold-downs on the board with a pliers. Still getting 27 degree idle, and spiking to 70-75 the instant I start Aida64's FPU load. Temps are around 60 when I do the full suite of CPU, FPU, and Cache. The second I stop either test, the temps instantly drop down to 28-30c again.

You have a Haswell refresh, though. I'm worried that with a 1ghz overclock that I'm hitting the limits of the TIM under the heat spreader. Have you ever delidded your processor?

Jumps to 70 and stays there. The instant I stop the test, it drops down to 23 again. I've played with the pump running it at max and 3300RPM and less, nothing made a difference in cooling. Leaving it at 3300RPM now since it's the quietest with good flow.