VioDuskar

28 minutes ago, rcr said:

Im starting to buy pc parts for my first build my mobo, gpu, and ram all have rgb (what parts dont tho) and my gpu and ram and rgb strips can all sync but i dont know about my mobo i checked the website and its only asrock polychrome and razer chroma but the reason om still asking here is because sometimes there compatible with programs they dont mention i hope it can sync with msi mystic light because all the parts besides maybe my mobo can use msi mystic light (the mobo is the ASRock Steel Legend)

it's generally best to follow what your motherboard supports, rather than the attachments

1 minute ago, HyperDubb said:

Yah i need to edit that. Sorry

any luck so far?

you should have different cables also included with the case. 

On 5/8/2020 at 6:41 PM, kelvinhall05 said:

I mean we have Hyundai ram

 

I'm still disappointed it doesnt have pictures of cars on it.

3 minutes ago, Nine Tailed Fox said:

lastpass generated

so your steam passwords were leaked via some kind of middleman attack. nice. 

5 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

bandwidth is cut to reduce power, since the card is at idle. when gaming, it'll be @PCIe x16 3.0

this is correct. GPU-Z should tell him this in the little tool tip, or in the render test.

2 minutes ago, NDRE said:

Hello! 

My graphics card is Palit GeForce GT 640 1GB, and it should normally run at PCIe 3.0 x16, but when I look into BIOS it says: PCIe 3.0 x16 @ PCIe 1.0 x16. 

 

In Windows 10, GPU-Z says: PCI x16 3.0 @ PCIe x16 1.1. 

 

My PC:

1. Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master (Latest BIOS version: F11c)

2. CPU: Intel i7-9700K

3. 32GB DDR4-2666

 

Is there a way to make it run at PCIe 3.0 x16?

 

 

run the render test in GPU-Z. it's right by the info box. 

1 minute ago, noobpcbuilder2020 said:

Reconnect , connect or check cable conections  with PSU switch on but PC powered off can cause any issue to the computer ? 

why not turn PC off, and remove the power cable, then push and hold the Power button to drain the power from the motherboard?

you should be fine if the PC is off.

1 minute ago, Johnnny167 said:

I can no longer connect via ethernet because for some reason my pc can't get a proper IP configuration. I've tried resetting my network settings, reinstalling drivers, and even making sure I get the specific ethernet drivers for my asrock motherboard from the website. I have even disabled fast-boot, I have restarted my PC after every single thing I've listed and none of this stuff seems to fix it. Not even manually changing the IP address fixes it. Any suggestions for stuff I can do?

unless you know IPV4 i wouldn't set it manually (know your gateway and subnet mask?) 
what's it do when set back to DHCP?

3 minutes ago, AntonChigurh said:

I Have a Ryzen 5 2600X CPU with the default cooler on it. It has served me great and I've had zero issues until recently. Recently I've been getting CPU fan errors whenever i boot up, and once in a blue moon my PC will shut down entirely (i'm assuming due to throttling). This usually happens when playing GTA online. I have no clue what is causing this, as my fan is on tight, i am not overclocked and the CPU temps only reach ~70c max, even at high loads. I tried going into my BIOS to change my fan settings, but MSI click BIOS has been ****ing up too. It just locks up the second I enter the BIOS. i have no clue if this is due to it not recognizing my keyboard and mouse or if it's truly frozen. Any help with these issues would be appreciated.

are you sure your fan is even spinning?

update your BIOS first, and use a wired KB/mouse to make sure it works. 

unpopular opinion: why not get a chromebook? video editing might suck on it, but the same is true on any other 250$ machine

3 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

seriously though, take a look at the ports on the back, you will see white ports and black ports. Anything connected to the black ports would not be draining from the battery (If I recall correctly)

this is heavily dependent on the UPS. 

@OP run a test and see how the UPS performs when you unplug it's AC source. If you break anything it's probably only going to be the fuse inside the UPS. 

make sure you have a spare fuse on hand...

does your UPS not show instantaneous wattage draw? check out what monitoring features it might have, even if it's just an LED panel on the front. 

If it has no monitoring tools you should probably get a better one. 

that being said, you're going to probably significantly drain that UPS whenever you actually need it. 

19 minutes ago, evilside123 said:

Owhh. They are both static pressured fans.

I see, so you haven't heard of them yet, well now you heard of them.  

i saw that, the noiseblockers are -P marked, i figured for "pressure" but i didn't see that in the specs i found. 

my reason for the NZXTs is probably stupid, but it's honest. 

Just now, SyedHamed said:

 

Is it right?

if it comes down to cost vs performance, then yes. 

a custom loop will always outperform air, but it will be way too expensive.

what do you mean "run hotter" with an AIO? the CPU will be hotter? the room will be hotter? 

heat is going to come off of the block faster, and get to the fins faster, until the liquid reaches it's heat capacity. at that point it becomes more of a surface area game. liquid cooling has really always been a heat capacity (on startup) and surface area game. liquid setups generally keep your CPU cooler because they can even out your heat dissipation over a larger area. 

that being said, new solid coolers are getting really good at dissipation, because they reach heat capacity so fast, and because really good ones are able to crap a lot of surface area into a small-ish package. 

use Static pressure fans on radiators, -aer P

use high airflow fans on case mounting points.  

i'd use the NZXT fans. because i've never heard of noiseblocker. 

any ATX case will support a miniATX motherboard. 

unless you're looking for a smaller case than mid-tower?

I'm still really upset that it's been 6 years since the battleblock theater steam release trailer and not a single RAM maker has put out RAM Sticks with little Rams on it. 

call kingston? RMA it?

check your bios update and make sure you have PCI-e lanes available in your CPU.

future performance depends on the game, and how it is optimized, as well as the drivers from nvidia. 

this is always a question that will be answered with "wait and see" 

anytime someone asks "will my PC be able to do/play this in the future" 

the answer will always be "wait and see" 

5 minutes ago, NobodyOfNote said:

What is the easiest way to clean thermal paste off of a CPU?

rubbing alcohol and a paper towel or cotton ball, just be sure to clean up all the fibers from the cotton ball or paper towel. 

70% isopropyl

16 minutes ago, Katarn said:

 

 

- How is its compatibility with Windows? I don't mind using DS4Windows. This will obviously be a determining factor. For that price-range, I would like a controller that does not give me trouble with modern games (Gears of War, Halo MCC, Crysis 3, Mankind Divided, Sekiro, The Witcher 3...)

- Can I use it to emulate the mouse and keyboard functions on the Desktop? This is also a determining factor, it can be with Xpadder or alternative software; as long as it can imitate mouse and keyboard functions.

- How is the track-pad when used in lieu of a mouse? This could be very beneficial and could easily justify the price if it means I can be far away from my desk and still operate the mouse.

- Is the gyroscope good and viable? This might be an interesting feature for which I could see myself paying the extra cash.

 

A few followup questions would be:

- Is it worth paying double the money I would give for a Logitech F310 if I were to wait a few weeks?

- What is its quality, feel, and performance compared to an Xbox 1 Controller?

 

 

I use this regularly because the Xbox controller feels big in my small hands. 

It uses bluetooth, so if you need it for online multiplayer i don't suggest it. but, in PC gaming no controller is good for PvP games. 

It uses bluetooth, so no need for a xbox or third party dongle. it works. 

it does require DS4, but that's actually kind of nice, as it lets you remap buttons. (i flip my L/R1 with my L/R2 for better triggers.)

the track pad works fine.  a light tap is a single click, a hard press is a right click. 

I have not used the gyroscope. I cannot attest to it's usage. 

it's a good value for money if you're used to playing with a DS4 controller. 

quality is fine, but i think all of the console controllers have mushy buttons. even xbox. 

3 minutes ago, EmoRarity said:

Koss is sorta famous for that, doesn't mean they are bad, just means there is better. Sorta like a ford truck. And i hope you have your garter belt on, because this'll blow your socks off. You can use that software on any headphone, most games already have it built in too.

my socks are still on. I'm also aware of this, but some headphones just do it way better than others.

my logitech g933s did a really good job of it over USB wireless, but the pairing on them sucks and they're 3 ticks away from useless if used with a 3.5mm cable. 

i've got a pair of skullcrusher wireless headphones by skullcandy and i'm seeing reviews say they fit decently over the halo. might give them a try. 

8 minutes ago, BobVonBob said:

- "Simulated 5.1 and 7.1" are both marketing nonsense, they've still only got 2 drivers -

I know this, hence I say "Simulated" the actual products market themselves as 5.1 and 7.1 but we all know there aren't 5 or 7 woofers and a subwoofer packed in there. 

but the use of a good driver and supporting software help simulate the surround sound feeling. 

I'm all for bang for buck, but Koss seems kinda... cheap?

I've got an Oculus Rift S coming next week and i've heard that the Audio is.... less than immersive? 
That being said, does anyone have any suggestions for headphones that they know fits will over the "Halo" band? 
 

I've used the old Rift and think the built in headphones were acceptable. I don't need it to be super loud, i prefer good clarity and 5.1 or 7.1 simulated sound for a more immersive experience in VR. 

i've heard that simply using earbuds and plugging them in to the headset or via bluetooth is an easy option, but i don't think it will quite simulate the "surround" feel of the audio properly. 

TL,DR; got a Rift S, need good surround sound headphone suggestions.