CyberneticTitan

It's scheduled so it hasn't been sent out yet. Try cancelling the order or phoning/chatting support to do it.

I don't think you should ask us; send them an email to get confirmation, and in writing.

Depending on how long you are saving up for, it's worthwhile to revisit this question before you buy, and to keep an eye out for deals along the way. I've seen 5700X within $50 of the 5600.

Where does this information come from? GPU-Z? Do you have a screenshot? According to manual, you should get 16 PCI-E lanes from the CPU on the x16 slot. On-board graphics should not factor into this consideration.

RTX 3080 uses GDDR6X. GDDR6X uses both PAM4 signalling and is quad pumped. Quad-pumped: Transmit 4 "information pieces" per cycle PAM4 signalling: 4 states per "information piece" (i.e. 2 bits) Therefore you have Effective Bandwidth = Base Clock x 4 x 2. So 1188 MHz x 8 = 9504 MHz. 2 MHz discrepancy somewhere. It might not be exactly 1188.0000 MHz, or the EVGA software is doing something.

First if you need software to auto align your bracketed photos, you can use software like Lightroom or Darktable. Both these software also support auto align for stitching photos. i.e. you take a bunch of photos from a single spot of the landscape, and merge them all together in one large photo. There are tons of software out there that try to use ML to automatically process photos for you like Google or Apple. For example, Autohenace.ai. The power of your Canon camera is really the large sensor, lens flexibility. It gives you the most control over what you want to take photos with. You won't be able to leverage Google's or Apple's computational photography tools that try to give the user a satisfying photo in the least amount of time as possible, but that's really not what DSLRs and more professional photo gear is for. With these cameras, they are tools to help you create your own personal vision of what you were imagining when you took the photo, not Google or Apple is envisioning.

If you want to give it a test, you can buy it and return if it's not up to expectations. That eaton has a runtime graph here: https://eg.eaton.com/ups-battery-runtime/en-us/5S1500LCD The output of the UPS and other power supplies is generally pretty bad at low wattages, so you won't get a linear relationship. I don't see any charts on Eaton's website, but yes 200W constant output for 30 minutes is 100 Wh of energy. The battery capacity of an S22 is about 14Wh, so you can charge the phone many times over.

Any possibility of lifting the Windows license from that other system also? I would say keep an eye out on the buildapcsales subreddit. Your budget is pretty tight, and if the Win 10 license is not flexibly you'll have to rely on sales to get the parts you want. Right now, you can get a refurbished 6600 from Amazon for $210: https://www.amazon.com/PowerColor-Renewed-Hellhound-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B0B49GWKX6/ I would also drop the 5600G for the 5600 when they're back in stock for about $130. Also be sure to see what you can buy used. Are you a student? Sometimes you can also get a Windows license from your school.

It's hard to tell what's going wrong with your AA battery pack without knowing more about the internal circuitry of it, but here are some general thoughts I had reading your post. From https://eneloop101.com/batteries/eneloop-test-results/ This is discharge test for some AA eneloop batteries. If the discharge rate is say 1A, the output voltage of a single AA battery would drop below 1.25V after about 70% of its original capacity. Assuming the output voltage of the battery pack is 5V, that means that after draining 30% from each battery, the combined voltage of your 4 AA cells will drop below 5V. The most rudimentary battery packs simply "regulate" the voltage. i.e. they take some larger voltage (say 4x1.5V = 6V from the 4 AA batteries) and output it to a regulated, fixed voltage output, such as 5V for USB. I am guessing that this cheap AA battery pack does not have a voltage boost circuit, which would allow for a lower voltage to be "boosted up" to the desired output, which would allow your 4 AA batteries to drop below 5V and still output power. Some circuits have both, and the technical term if you want to read more about them are "buck-boost converters". The gist is that, if your AA battery pack only regulates the voltage, the moment the voltage of your 4 cells drops below 5V, it will be unable to supply a stable 5V output, thereby shutting off the battery pack. Again this is just a guess of mine. Verifying this would be fairly involved. The naive approach would be to charge the AA batteries to full, then charge your phone until the battery pack stops working, and then use a voltmeter to measure the voltage of each AA battery. This would not work, because the AA batteries have some internal resistance and the voltage drops when they are discharging, as shown by the above chart. Even with a low current like 0.1A, there is still about a 0.05V voltage drop. But doing this naive approach could give you a general idea if this hypothesis is true. That being said, one solution I have for not on the go is to have a UPS at home. They are essentially alkaline batteries that are charged all the time. You can find some of them used for maybe $50. Some of them even have their own USB ports. When the power goes out you then have a fully charged battery to charge your phone, or to even temporarily power some other appliances for a short while. You could even use this to protect your PC from power outages by using UPS software to shut down your PC after detecting a power outage. Then you can use the remaining power to charge your phone.

I think you'll get more out of your gaming experience if you drop the 5800X3D for something cheaper like a 5600 or 5700X. Then you can use the extra budget to get a 3060 Ti or even a 3070. I would also see what you have available second hand. Not sure how much the Corsair RAM is, but I would wager you could probably save $10-20 on other similarly performing RAM. The Crucial P3 is a good drive, but it is QLC, and is only PCI-E 3.0. See if you can fit a decent PCI-E 4.0 TLC SSD like the Kingston KC3000, WD SN850X, Samsung 980 Pro, etc. You don't need a Titanium rated PSU. You can probably save a pretty penny going to a 750W Gold PSU, something like a Corsair RM750/RM750X or Seasonic Prime 750.

Do you live near a computer store? Ask around and see if they will update the BIOS for you for free (some stores require you to buy the CPU and motherboard from them to get the fee waived), or a friend for their Alder Lake CPU. This is so you can save some money and buy a Z690 board, but if the price difference is small, just go Z790.

Ah fair enough I thought it might be easier for you to sell the whole thing afterwards as a bundle. For just CPU/Motherboard/RAM/SSD you can get: PCPartPicker Part List: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Qmd2wc CPU: Intel Core i5-12400 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Best Buy Canada) Motherboard: Asus PRIME B660-PLUS D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($179.50 @ Vuugo) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($54.99 @ Canada Computers) Storage: Kingston KC3000 1.024 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Best Buy Canada) Total: $584.47 I'm not sure what case you have so I did not choose a cooler. With about $120 in leftover room, you could: - Get a aftermarket cooler - Get 32GB of RAM - Get 2TB of NVMe storage For an extra $100 (so $800 in total), you can upgrade to a 12600K + Z690 Motherboard + Aftermarket cooler.

I would start here: PCPartPicker Part List: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/X3LgjZ CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($175.00) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg Canada) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($54.99 @ Canada Computers) Storage: Kingston KC3000 1.024 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Best Buy Canada) Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ Best Buy Canada) Power Supply: Corsair RM750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($120.00) Total: $744.96 At this price point, The 5600 is a better value than the 12100F, which went on-sale for <$175 multiple times in the past. I picked some $100 case, you can change to your preferences. The stock cooler should be sufficient and you can get a better one down the line. The RM750 is currently $120 at Memory Express. I would encourage you to buy some parts used. You might be able to find a used i5 12400F for $200, or a used B550 motherboard for cheaper. It's unlikely you'll find anything better for the RAM and SSD though. I would also ask you to think about selling your current PC to add extra budget to this new PC, if you aren't already doing so.

If you were also confused like me and thought CES started earlier with all these announcements, it actually started today (Thurs Jan 5, 8:30 AM PST). We'll probably see the on-floor coverage videos later today or tomorrow.

Wow that looks great. Nicely done. If only you could change the RGB color... Maybe a mod for a different day lol.

I've used Macrium Reflect for years and it's been good. They can clone your OS while booted into Windows and automatically resize your main partition to fit different size drives.

This is a good problem to have. The alternative is like buying a 4770k in 2013 and feeling satisfied for 5+ years because Intel had no competition.

How about: - Some good audio gear (headphone/DAC/speakers, etc) - The new OLED 240Hz 1440p monitor next year - Furniture. Standing desk? Better tabletop?

We will likely hear something at CES next week.

The cooler on the Zotac Twin Edge 3060 Ti is quite small, leading to higher fan noise. See https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-twin-edge/31.html I would recommend going with a more bulky cooler if you can. I would also recommend buying a used GPU. You could probably get a 3070 at that price.

You can try NotebookCheck: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Search.8222.0.html

idk about you but that just doesn't seem as professional or as "OG" as owning your own domain name. It's like why not just use firstname12455@gmail.com instead of firstname@gmail.com?

Again sure, but if your children want their own personal websites what are they going to do?

The NAND of the iPhone, barring manufacturing defects and design flaws, will likely long outlast the life of device. You're unlikely to hit the endurance limit of the flash under regular use. For completeness iPhones use Kioxia NAND. It'll be hard for you to look up the endurance rating of flash itself, since Apple likes to have manufacturers create part numbers that only Apple uses. For example, the iPhone 12 64GB has part number KICM224AY4402TWNA12029.

I mean you can consider options for gmail such as: FLast@gmail.com FirstL@gmail.com LastFirst@gmail.com LastF@gmail.com LFirst@gmail.com For domains, I think a family-wide domain is a bit weird. Like if you visited Last.com what should be there? On resumes and what not you want people to visit First.Last.com as a subdomain? I think everyone should get FirstLast.com or a variant individually.