sidas

(Excuse the wall of text, the first paragraphs are some backstory) About 2 years ago I bought a refurbished Dell Precision M6800 (a 2014 model), and I started having the sudden reboot and ASF2 Force Off thing regularly after a couple of months. It could sometimes happen with the laptop being untouched, but it usually happened whenever I moved the laptop, didn't matter if it was with a battery or not (mine has a removable battery still), plugged in or not. One repair shop said they could not do anything about it (they said try reinstalling Windows). Another one though immediately suspected a broken trace in the motherboard, however they inspected the board carefully and found no broken traces, but disassembled and reassembled everything, and let the laptop run for a week or so, sometimes moving it, flexing the chassis to induce the „Force off“ behaviour to make sure it's fine. And it's been working great since then. I don't know if this is applicable to your newer machine, but my issue might have been some under-tightened screws inside that caused a momentary disconnect for some parts and the BIOS (or ASF2) issued a system restart (or a Force Off) to prevent something (idk, data corruption, system fault or something).

Then I'm doing something horribly wrong, because even 720p60 stutters every 10-20sec. Then again, maybe I'm just using Windows

I got it used for free and it's not my main machine. As I mentioned, it is mostly for taking notes in university.

I forgot to mention that I already have Windows 10 Home (64-bit) on it

So I got a 15" Toshiba laptop: AMD E1-1200 APU (2×1,4 GHz) processor 4GB DDR3 (1 of 2 slots populated) 500GB SATA-II HDD (5400 RPM) in a SATA-III capable slot 1366×768 LCD screen I'm thinking of upgrading to a 256GB SSD, and adding 4GB or 8GB of RAM. What should I go first with? (I use mostly OneNote [note-taking program], Chrome, Word, ocassionally Audacity [audio editing] and Native Instruments Traktor [music playback and performance]) What performance gains should I expect? (I can watch YouTube up to 720p30; Traktor takes quite long to analyse an audio track, and is at almost 100% cpu) Should I go for additional 4 or 8 GB of RAM? (I come from a laptop with a 32-bit processor, so I did manage to get things done with 2GB)

It would be cool to have a projector that's also a smart TV

What are the options for converting a 256GB SSD with MBR and Windows 10 installed on it to GPT? (I also have a 320GB PATA drive that I can use as a backup/clone/repair drive)

OK, thanks

It's not that I want a 3A charger, but if I have a power supply, could I make one just by wiring stuff to things?

I have an 100-240V AC to 5VDC (3A) wall adapter from a LAN router. Could I simply wire a USB port to the adapter and use it as a charger? Or would I need to add something else for over-current, over-charge protection etc.

It is a paid piece of software though

Yes, it should be fine.

You will have to make a bootable usb with a clonezilla image and boot a machine from that with both, the source and target drives attached. The target drive will be wiped and a partition will be created by the cloning software, so you don't have to make any partitions on your own. After that you should be able to extend the partition in Disk Management (if you're on Windows).

Clonezilla [link] can clone partinion to parition, so that should work. That requires making a bootable usb thumbdrive , Rufus [link] is the best to do that. I haven't tried booting clonezilla on a notebook though, but I have successfully cloned a 250GB partition of a 320GB HDD to a 256GB SSD with that.

As I mentioned, I have an old system, I was looking for something new. As for an inverter – maybe an option, but a powerbank that I have is limited to 4,5A, so the max speaker power is going to be what – 50W? so a 300W inverter would be impractical.

Price. And possibly configuration (two full range instead of sub/amp unit and two smaller speakers)

What do you mean by that? The current running through the speaker drivers is AC, but the amplifiers of the systems above get DC power

So I had to use speakers outside a couple of times and I happened to have these old-ish Cambridge Soundworks PCWorks 2.1 speakers ([link] also [google image search]) that happen to run off of 12V DC, so I just powered them with my big-ass Powerbank [link]. But I havent found any new DC powered speakers (more powerful than USB powered) that would be 2.1 or under €80. (I like 2.1, because I can put the battery and the sub in the backpack and put the sattelite speakers in the side pockets of the backpack) Here's a list of DC powered stereo speakers I found so far JBL Control 2P (Stereo Pair) Model C2PS $209 Bose Companion® 2 Series III $99,95 Bose Computer MusicMonitor® $299,95 Bose Companion® 20 $249,95 Simple Audio Listen $268 (amazon) $499,99(Corsair) The cheapest ones that I found – Bose Companion 2 – are more expensive per watt than something like AC powered Logitech Z533, which I can get for €77 : Bose – 12V*1,8A = 21,6W; Logitech – 60W. My question is – are there new DC (9-20V) powered speakers (preferrably 2.1) that cost less than €80-100 ? (or is my option to get a used car stereo for €20 and some speakers and DIY a system that way)

Oh, it is too late for that. Probably will just grab a PCIe sound card for now and buy a new motherboard later

Downloaded latest Windows 8.1 64-bit drivers from MSI page Uninstalled Realtek HD Audio along with Driver Software Restarted PC Installed the downloaded drivers Restarted PC Problem persists

I have an "MSI 760GM-E51(FX)" mainboard with integrated Realtek HD Audio (ALC889 audio chip). Once when connecting my PC to a Mixer (both of which were not earthed and were connected to different wall sockets) I got an electric shock while touching the audio cable and my PC case. When I connected the audio cable to the PC's rear panel, although Windows Volume control showed sound being output, no signal was going out of any of the 5 output sockets: front panel headphone out; rear panel green rear panel black rear panel orange rear panel grey Was the electric shock from connecting the cable able to damage the soundcard? Both mic inputs, front and rear function normally. Rear blue line input also works.

And to add to that: song's video link does not seem to go to the song, instead to an album mix, which does not actually contain the song. link to the song: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6yQQgKyDtE

In the video description the bitly link seems fine, but on the video it's in ALL CAPS. bitly links are case-sensitive.

Am I first? Edit: Apparently

I actually would like someone to do an AMD equivalent test.