killchain

Sounds like firmware/hardware limitation, not a software one (hence why messing with drivers didn't help). I see the cards has two BIOS slots/modes - Performance and Quiet; which one you're in right now?

Too many monkeys on one branch. Basically out of resources.

Depends on what you want to do really. In my case I most often want to snip something and immediately paste it somewhere, so it doesn't matter much whether it's saved at all.

Win+Shift+S for taking a screenshot Win+Shift+Left/Win+Shift+Right for moving windows across displays Win+Up for maximising a window Ctrl+Shift+Win+B for resetting DWM, sometimes helpful to get out of a black screen without rebooting

What exactly do you want to learn from the benchmark? You should start with answering that question. Do you want to compare performance across different driver versions? Do you want to compare results before and after overclock and/or other tweaks?

Do you only see this now? Basically almost every review of the 30 series FE cards explained this.

It pulls air through the rad. It doesn't need to be visible.

Might be just clogged with dust (thus the fans needing to spin faster than they would if it was clean), might be your case not having enough airflow or a dozen other things... Overheating would generally mean that it gets so hot that it throttles.

Did you specifically ask it to write C++, because that's not it... Looks like VB. As for running along the edge, I'm not sure if this is a good approach - my gut tells me that you might end up with a visible "stripe" where the inversion happened.

FanControl has been my go to for some time now for both GPU and CPU/case fans. I've had issues with Afterburner that other people recommend (even with an MSI card - despite the fact that it should work with any card), so I'd personally stay away from it (I'm not sure the issue was in Afterburner itself or with RivaTuner that's bundled with it). Yes, FanControl reports temps, and unless you explicitly change something, it will use whatever settings are already in place. Open Hardware Monitor is something I use just for monitoring because of the graphs it provides.

What software are you using to control the GPU fans (if any)? Can you get a reading of the GPU temps when that happens?

You might want higher bandwidth between the devices on your network regardless of what Internet connection you have. It becomes apparent with a NAS for example - many units can write faster than what a 1 Gbps line offers. For this to make sense, you have to have 2.5 Gbps adapters on the devices of course.

You mention Ethernet ports - does that mean that there are cable runs to every room already? If that's the case, do you have access to the other end (that's hopefully somewhere near where the router's installed)? If you do, you probably don't need a technician - all you need to do is hook up everything to the switch (including the ISP's router, assuming it has a free LAN port) and it will work as if every room is connected to that router. Depends on what's the switch. The simplest ones are like $15-20.

Fair enough. Thanks for the thorough answer! In this case would it be a good bet to keep the current USB-C to the P27 and look for a USB-C -> HDMI adapter that would hopefully support HDMI 2.0 to hook up between the second USB-C of the laptop and the 34? There are even some with multiple HDMI outputs and Ethernet, so it would ease things up a little (or at least not make them worse than they are); right now besides the USB-C I usually have to plug Ethernet into the laptop (so with an adapter like this it would be 2 USB-C instead of USB-C + Ethernet). Edit: something else I just thought of - the laptop, besides the 2 USB-C, also has an HDMI port that I might try. I've read though of some instances when plugging in HDMI on the go (without turning off the devices on both ends) has damaged one (or both) - I think one example was with a desktop PC and a TV. How big of a concern do you think this is, considering the laptop is either not plugged into power at all or plugged in through the same outlet (regarding potential voltage differences across different outlets)?

Nope, they should be fine. Most fans have some leeway - in one direction you can push them as far as they would go, in the other you can pull, but there's a fixing nut (don't know what it's called in English) that prevents the fan's axle going out. When they spin they will just centre themselves. Nothing to worry about IMO.