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Carl DaBeast

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About Carl DaBeast

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Twitch.tv

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Games, which is very common...


  • CPU
    Intel Pentium G4400
  • Motherboard
    MSI B150M Pro-VDH
  • RAM
    8GB DDR4 Kingston HyperX
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1050 Ti Gaming X
  • Case
    NZXT S340 Elite (Blakc/Red)
  • Storage
    120GB Kingston HyperX SSD
  • PSU
    Corasir CX450M
  • Display(s)
    Acer G276HL
  • Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Apple Wireless Keyboard, its great!
  • Mouse
    Razer Naga Molten (Special Edition)
  • Sound
    Razer Kraken 7.1 (Old), or any headphones that still work...
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

715 profile views
  1. My phone (OnePlus 3t) has started to run out of space and when running ADirStat to visualise what's taking up so much space I found that it's mostly a bunch of photos and memes I've downloaded onto my phone. I've backed up my data but I want to keep some of the photos. Is there any program (preferably directly on Android) that can sift though photos in a folder and quickly delete or mark images to be deleted? The issue I'm having is that it takes a lot of time to load the pictures, close the picture and then delete it as my phone is slowing down (possibly because it is full) and the stock software isn't the best to do it as it will occasionally jump around to the top of a file list instead of remembering where it was.
  2. Carl DaBeast

    Help replacing a capacitor

    Thanks for the replies. It sucks that I jumped the gun on ordering the part but I'll look at this as a learning experience. It will still be several times cheaper than buying an entirely new monitor, and now I'll have spare capacitors for something else!
  3. Carl DaBeast

    Help replacing a capacitor

    My PC monitor has recently started having issues turning on (status LED would blink and looked like it had issues "charging"). I suspected a capacitor had started malfunctioning so I decided to open it. Lo and behold I found a bloated capacitor, and it was the one closest to the DC input (which supports my suspicion). I've decided to replace it and I found a capacitor that would arrive within a few business days instead of four weeks (thanks China...). The only thing about it is that the size of the capacitor is slightly smaller than the one in the monitor. The capacitor in the monitor is also held down by some white silicon looking substance which is hardened. Does the size of the capacitor matter ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) if the rating is the same? What is the goop for? Is it only to hold the capacitor on place (and in that case can it be replaced with got glue) or is it for thermal reasons? Thank you. The capacitor I ordered. The capacitor on the circuit board. A better look at the goop.
  4. Carl DaBeast

    Severe FPS Drop While Gaming

    Specs: MSI GTX 1050Ti i5-7600K 16GB Ram A few days ago while playing Warframe my FPS started tanking from the regular 80-120 FPS during a mission all the way down to a slideshow of 15-25 FPS. At first when it happened I thought that it was because it was an intense mission with a lot of enemies and somehow my computer couldn't handle it (even though the game is very well optimised), however after finishing the mission and returning to my ship my FPS didn't recover as where I usually have around 140-180 FPS I was getting around 40 FPS. I play at 1080p with a 60Hz monitor so I should be able to run the game flawlessly, but I can't. After trying some regular fixes such as lowering graphics and verifying the game files the error was still there, which is when I also noticed that the GPU fan was not spinning. MSI have a thing where if the gpu is under a certain temperature/load the fan will stop spinning to reduce noise, however when I am gaming the card should neither be at low temperatures or under a small load. This is however where things get weird. I checked NZXT's CAM, MSI Afterburner, and Task Manager. These three told me that my GPU was at around 60-70% load, my CPU was at around 80% load, and the GPU and CPU were at around 65ºC. If neither of the components are thermally throttling then why is my FPS tanking?
  5. Carl DaBeast

    5400 rpm WIth More Cache, or 7200 rpm With Less?

    Thank you, I guess I misunderstood what the cache does.
  6. In the near future I may have to buy a new harddrive if I decide on purchasing a very small case so that it is easy to move. The only issue I am facing is that I may not be able to move over my 3.5" drive as it needs to sit in the same compartment as the graphics card and there's a few millimetres of a clearance issue. and I'm not about to buy a new graphics card to fit a larger hard drive when I can just use a 2.5" drive instead. However when I was looking at what I could find locally (to avoid shipment fees and import tax) the only 2.5" hard drives I could find are the Seagate Barracuda at 5200 rpm with 128MB of cache and the WD Black at 7200 rpm with 32MB of cache. Which drive should I go for? While I would assume that the 5400 rpm drive would be slower it would do better at small files because it has a larger buffer, but then again I might be confusing how the cache buffer works. Thank you, Da Beast.
  7. Carl DaBeast

    Issue with Sound Leaking into Microphone

    I did a bit of testing again by connecting my headphones to my phone and recording it. The audio does leak when the microphone is off, but not when it is off, which is good. However on my computer it still leaks when it is off. However I did notice that my phone was recording me a lot louder, so I connected the microphone through the extension/splitter cable (from 4-pole TRRS to 2 3-pole TRS, the pink and green marked ones) and the audio was a lot more quiet which means that the extension is part of the issue. Except when I swapped it out for a much shorter Y spliter my voice on the computer was still quiet and the sound still leaked. I'm not sure how or what to test now. Regarding Rear IO im not sure what I can try. There are five jacks, one which is meant for microphone and another for headphones however not marked by green and pink, but red and black because MSI. The other three are meant to set up a surround sound system, however for full surround you also need to use the headphone jack. However the issue is that the motherboard does not understand which one I am going for and there's no way to tell it, so the only way I can get audio or microphone on the back is to re assign what the microphone port does, and then I can only have either sound or microphone. Do you have any ideas what the issue could be or how to fix it?
  8. Carl DaBeast

    Issue with Sound Leaking into Microphone

  9. Carl DaBeast

    Issue with Sound Leaking into Microphone

    I'll try to use the ports on the back, I know that in the driver app I can reassign what the port does but I haven't put time into trying to make it work as front panel IO worked. I'll double check if the headphones have the same issue on a different device. For the USB to 3.5mm adapter, are you referring to external USB sound cards that are small, as those are the only ones I found? Also is it possible that the motherboard is the issue? As in the onboard soundcard is messed up and one channel is bleeding into another. I had to RMA it before because some USB connector on the rear up was shorted out so it could be another issue with this one.
  10. Carl DaBeast

    Issue with Sound Leaking into Microphone

    I mean I just recently got it, I've had the older version before but it broke some how (the mic stopped working and one of the ears stopped outputting sound). I have had the issue out of the box and with a cheap earbud headset I used before (similar to Apple earbuds with the microphone on the volume controller).
  11. Carl DaBeast

    Issue with Sound Leaking into Microphone

    For a while now many of my friends have complained that they can hear themselves talking through my microphone and sometimes that they hear a video that I am watching. The headphones that I am using are Razer Kraken v2, they are connected via a 4-pole 3.5mm jack into a extension splitter cable that is connected to the front-IO as the rear-IO for some reason doesn't work (MSI Z270 Gaming M7, hopefully unrelated). I did some testing and some troubleshooting to try to fix it including (links to image verification): Deselect "Listen to this device" Disable any other microphone and headphone Disable all sound effects in enhancements Disable microphone boost in levels The testing was to verify if it was leaking into the microphone internally or externally by using the physical microphone mute slider on the headphones, the computer audio was still recorded. Video Only recorded in Audacity, no other sound is included. Note the microphone volume is very low. Also the audio is very low and requires me to use Microphone Boost to be heard, however that also makes the sound leak louder. I compared it to the audio on my phone (OnePlus 3T). Video I don't know what causes it nor how to fix it so I am asking you all for help. Thank you. Headphones: Razer Kraken V2 3.5mm jack, using extension splitter cable Driver: Realtek High Definition Audio version Case: NZXT S340 Elite Motherboard: MSI Z270 Gaming M7
  12. Carl DaBeast

    New Motherboard Won't Post, USB Over Current

    I've tried resetting the CMOS and the problem is still there. They were both working before I swapped the board this morning, and they are plugged into the recommended slots (2 and 4) l. This may help however do have not found any form of jumper plug on my motherboard, and attempting to reset the CMOS by shorting the reset CMOS plugs didn't do anything. I've more or less disconnected everything now. I only have one ram stick in there (slot 2), no graphics card, no front panel IO, no back panel IO, no internal USB headers. I only have the CPU 8 pin power, the 24 pin ATX power, and three fans connected, one is PWM (for CPU) the other two are three pin and plugged in correctly (ie not plugged into the PWM controlling lane). Any ideas what else I could try?
  13. I just finished installing my new motherboard, MSI Z270 Gaming M7. But when I power it on it won't post and instead results in a screen that says: Over current have been detected on your USB device. Restarting in 15 seconds to protect main board. I tried to fix this by unplugging every USB device in the front and back. Then I unplugged all the internal USB headers including the 3.1 header. And it still won't post. I have no USB device plugged in yet it still says the same thing. Any idea what I should do? Specs: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/CarlPC/saved/wjczyc Hue+ and external peripherals are disconnected
  14. Carl DaBeast

    Issues with Upgrading Motherboard

    3. Is the goal only to remove drivers? 4. Will the computer still boot if I just reconnect the motherboard?
  15. Tomorrow my new motherboard will arrive as the current one has a bunch of issues and was only meant to be a cheap motherboard that I could play on until I could get a better board. I know that the drivers will be different and according to some post on the topic it is most sensible to re-install windows 10 so that the 'ghost' of the old motherboard doesn't lurk around. There's two issues I have with this: 1. I don't know when to reinstall windows, after replacing the motherboard or before and not turn on the computer after reinstalling it. 2. Will I lose any data? I currently have Windows 10 on an SSD and most files on an HDD to only the SSD would be affected, however I do still have ome files on the SSD, will they be removed? Thank you.