Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Carl DaBeast

Member
  • Content Count

    97
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Carl DaBeast

  1. I've been looking at a laptop that can help me with my programming / university work when I can't use my desktop computer instead. My current desktop is pretty good so I don't want to spend too much money on a laptop with great specs that I won't use most of the time. So I'm looking for a windows laptop that Isn't too expensive (~800 USD maybe) but can still play some games on low settings. Preferably not with a "Gamer" aesthetic and light weight is a bonus. Some games I play at the moment are Warframe, Valorant, and Minecraft (modded).
  2. I've recently purchased two SSDs to replace my current boot SSD and HDD (move a lot and worried that HDD could get damaged, it was also really slow). A while back I also got an M.2 SSD but never bothered to transfer the content of my boot SSD because I found it too complicated and unnecesary at the time. However now that i am replacing the boot SSD I figured I might as well put the OS on the M.2 SSD because it's faster than the new SSDs. The current boot drive is a Kingston 128GB SSD and the M.2 SSD is a Corsair MP500 256GB drive. The new SSDs are Crucial mx500 2TB drives.
  3. Thank you, I've heard good things about that SSD before and it was one of the top considerations. I actually already have 2 M.2 SSDs in my system, 1TB and 256GB. I guess they'll be the next components to upgrade. Thank you for the brief explanation. I forgot that LTT made a video about that recently. I will most likely go for a TLC SSD, the MX500, for better read and write performance. Highly doubt I will ever reach the max write capacity.
  4. I'm planning to upgrade my storage as I am slowly running out of space. I currently have a 128 GB SSD and a 2 TB 2.5" 5400RPM HDD (I can explain). I'm using the SilverStone ML-08 case so I only have space for two 2.5" drives. The SSD I've had since I first built my computer in a tower case and the HDD was the best I could find due to some limitations. The reason I have the case is because I move it fairly often, so having a HDD might not be the best idea. I've already had a scare because the SATA cable disconnected and briefly thought the drive had broken. It might not be nece
  5. Thanks @rcmaehl. But this doesn't help much at all. I am aware that there are different keys, but that's not what I was asking. I was asking what the different between 'SATA and x2 PCIE compatible' and 'only PCIE 3.0 x4 compatible' meant. Also I'm not sure what you picture is really explaining besides the difference between m key and b key m.2 slots. The only notable difference between NVME and AHCI drives seems to be the color. So unless you have some text to accompany the picture to explain something it's really not helpful at all.
  6. I have been looking into expanding the storage on my computer as I have some money to splurge on my computer. On my motherboard there are 2 m.2 connectors, however when looking in the manual there is a slight asterisks next to the specs saying that one is SATA and x2 PCIE compatible and the other is only PCIE 3.0 x4 compatible. I'll be honest, I have no clue what that means and I am concerned if there will be compatibility issues if I buy a m.2 SSD and plug it in. I already have a 120GB m.2 SSD in one of the slots and it is working fine, but I want to know if the other one isn
  7. My phone (OnePlus 3t) has started to run out of space and when running ADirStat to visualise what's taking up so much space I found that it's mostly a bunch of photos and memes I've downloaded onto my phone. I've backed up my data but I want to keep some of the photos. Is there any program (preferably directly on Android) that can sift though photos in a folder and quickly delete or mark images to be deleted? The issue I'm having is that it takes a lot of time to load the pictures, close the picture and then delete it as my phone is slowing down (possibly because it is
  8. Thanks for the replies. It sucks that I jumped the gun on ordering the part but I'll look at this as a learning experience. It will still be several times cheaper than buying an entirely new monitor, and now I'll have spare capacitors for something else!
  9. My PC monitor has recently started having issues turning on (status LED would blink and looked like it had issues "charging"). I suspected a capacitor had started malfunctioning so I decided to open it. Lo and behold I found a bloated capacitor, and it was the one closest to the DC input (which supports my suspicion). I've decided to replace it and I found a capacitor that would arrive within a few business days instead of four weeks (thanks China...). The only thing about it is that the size of the capacitor is slightly smaller than the one in the monitor. The capacito
  10. Specs: MSI GTX 1050Ti i5-7600K 16GB Ram A few days ago while playing Warframe my FPS started tanking from the regular 80-120 FPS during a mission all the way down to a slideshow of 15-25 FPS. At first when it happened I thought that it was because it was an intense mission with a lot of enemies and somehow my computer couldn't handle it (even though the game is very well optimised), however after finishing the mission and returning to my ship my FPS didn't recover as where I usually have around 140-180 FPS I was getting around 40 FPS. I play at 1080p with a 60Hz
  11. Thank you, I guess I misunderstood what the cache does.
  12. In the near future I may have to buy a new harddrive if I decide on purchasing a very small case so that it is easy to move. The only issue I am facing is that I may not be able to move over my 3.5" drive as it needs to sit in the same compartment as the graphics card and there's a few millimetres of a clearance issue. and I'm not about to buy a new graphics card to fit a larger hard drive when I can just use a 2.5" drive instead. However when I was looking at what I could find locally (to avoid shipment fees and import tax) the only 2.5" hard drives I could find are the Seagate Barracuda at 5
  13. I did a bit of testing again by connecting my headphones to my phone and recording it. The audio does leak when the microphone is off, but not when it is off, which is good. However on my computer it still leaks when it is off. However I did notice that my phone was recording me a lot louder, so I connected the microphone through the extension/splitter cable (from 4-pole TRRS to 2 3-pole TRS, the pink and green marked ones) and the audio was a lot more quiet which means that the extension is part of the issue. Except when I swapped it out for a much shorter Y spliter my voice on the computer w
  14. I'll try to use the ports on the back, I know that in the driver app I can reassign what the port does but I haven't put time into trying to make it work as front panel IO worked. I'll double check if the headphones have the same issue on a different device. For the USB to 3.5mm adapter, are you referring to external USB sound cards that are small, as those are the only ones I found? Also is it possible that the motherboard is the issue? As in the onboard soundcard is messed up and one channel is bleeding into another. I had to RMA it before because some USB connector
  15. I mean I just recently got it, I've had the older version before but it broke some how (the mic stopped working and one of the ears stopped outputting sound). I have had the issue out of the box and with a cheap earbud headset I used before (similar to Apple earbuds with the microphone on the volume controller).
  16. For a while now many of my friends have complained that they can hear themselves talking through my microphone and sometimes that they hear a video that I am watching. The headphones that I am using are Razer Kraken v2, they are connected via a 4-pole 3.5mm jack into a extension splitter cable that is connected to the front-IO as the rear-IO for some reason doesn't work (MSI Z270 Gaming M7, hopefully unrelated). I did some testing and some troubleshooting to try to fix it including (links to image verification): Deselect "Listen to this device" Disable any other microphone and hea
  17. I've tried resetting the CMOS and the problem is still there. They were both working before I swapped the board this morning, and they are plugged into the recommended slots (2 and 4) l. This may help however do have not found any form of jumper plug on my motherboard, and attempting to reset the CMOS by shorting the reset CMOS plugs didn't do anything. I've more or less disconnected everything now. I only have one ram stick in there (slot 2), no graphics card, no front panel IO, no back panel IO, no internal USB headers. I only have the CPU 8 pin power, the
  18. I just finished installing my new motherboard, MSI Z270 Gaming M7. But when I power it on it won't post and instead results in a screen that says: Over current have been detected on your USB device. Restarting in 15 seconds to protect main board. I tried to fix this by unplugging every USB device in the front and back. Then I unplugged all the internal USB headers including the 3.1 header. And it still won't post. I have no USB device plugged in yet it still says the same thing. Any idea what I should do? Specs: https://pcpartpic
  19. 3. Is the goal only to remove drivers? 4. Will the computer still boot if I just reconnect the motherboard?
  20. Tomorrow my new motherboard will arrive as the current one has a bunch of issues and was only meant to be a cheap motherboard that I could play on until I could get a better board. I know that the drivers will be different and according to some post on the topic it is most sensible to re-install windows 10 so that the 'ghost' of the old motherboard doesn't lurk around. There's two issues I have with this: 1. I don't know when to reinstall windows, after replacing the motherboard or before and not turn on the computer after reinstalling it. 2. Will I lose any data? I curre
  21. No it's even worse on the case audio. The static is nearly three times as loud there.
  22. Recently my GPU had some issues so I removed it and cleaned it, but when I reinstalled it my audio stopped working. I have since reinstalled my audio drivers, scanned for viruses and malware, reinstalled my GPU drivers because NVIDIA now has HD Audio Drivers included for some reason, and reset my computer tens of times and the issue still stands. Is it possible that the audio ports on the motherboard are broken or could there be some other issue? At the moment when plugging my headphones into them results in only electric static, no actual audio, and when I plug in the
  23. Recently my GPU had some issues so I removed it and cleaned it, but when I reinstalled it my audio stopped working. I have since reinstalled my audio drivers, scanned for viruses and malware, reinstalled my GPU drivers because NVIDIA now has HD Audio Drivers included for some reason, and reset my computer tens of times and the issue still stands. Is it possible that the audio ports on the motherboard are broken or could there be some other issue? When plugging my headphones into them at the moment results in only electric static, no actual audio, and when I plug in the
  24. Odd given that the card is fairly new. I bought it around February 2017.
×