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RogueCow

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About RogueCow

  • Birthday May 15, 1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Windsor, Ontario
  • Interests
    PC gaming (obviously), Cars, Food (BBQ and smoking), Music (guitar and trumpet), somewhat of a vidiophile
  • Biography
    Started my PC modding experience about 10 years ago with the intent of making my Dell Inspiron 546ST more sweet looking for a local Lan party held at the local college. I cut out the side panel leaving flame cutouts in the metal, and backed it with plexiglass frosted with "Rogue".
    I upgraded to a Noctua CPU cooler, upgraded the graphics, and added LED lights and a fan controller.

    That PC was the most unique and in depth one I have built so far as it was completely unique and required a complete paint job and alot of case modification. It was a huge hit at the lan party despite its mediocre hardware.

    My second build is not as exciting, and is currently very old hardware. I built it in a full tower (HAF 932 Black) and it looks awesome, but it looks like everyone elses with a HAF 932 X so im hoping to do something more mod-tacular with my next build.

    Upcoming planning a full SLI watercooled (hardline bends) build, maybe in an 800, maybe in a 900d unless linus shows a case I like better.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i5-9600k
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus Ultra Gaming
  • RAM
    16GB Corsai Vengeance RGB Pro - White (DDR4-3200)
  • GPU
    EVGA 1070 Ti FTW Ultra Silent
  • Case
    Corsair 275R - White
  • Storage
    500 GB Samsung 970 EVO NVMe, 4tb WD Blue
  • PSU
    EVGA 750 G2 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    3x 27" Samsung Curved IPS
  • Cooling
    Hyper 212
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Strafe Pro
  • Mouse
    Sorsair
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64 bit
  1. Doesn't the Acer Predator X34 fall into that price range? I believe that is pretty much the best you can get for ultrawide gaming. That said, it may have a freesync cousin(now works with Nvidia 10/20 series cards) that may be a little less expensive
  2. PG279Q and XB171HU are going to be your best bets, but get the XB271HU with an IPS panel
  3. Nice rig. What is your budget, intended use is gaming I assume?
  4. One thing to consider is how fast your rig can spit out frames. Spending hundreds on fast response times and refresh rates may be a waste if your comp can't push past 60 fps. If your CPU is going to struggle with framerates, you'll want to prioritze freesync/g-sync so the low framerates are delivered smoothly, rather than getting a monitor which has a refresh rate faster than what your comp is capable of delivering. You seem to understand your limits on the resolution side, this is just another limit people forget to consider. FWIW I have 3x curved 27" Samsung CF398 IPS monitors which can overclock to 72 hz, look great, have Freesync (which now works with NVIDIA cards), and eye strain reduction mode (I game and do CAD for hours on mine with no issues). Plus they are only $200 each. So you can buy two (More = Better!) Just my $0.02, good luck!
  5. While running games, use a system recorder (CPU-Z/GPU-Z) to watch your hardware. If you see your cpu cores constantly hitting 100%, you know what is causing your issues (CPU Bottleneck). Next, you can run benchmarks (3dMark for example) and compare your results to systems with similar specifications. If your Results are radically lower, you know you have an issue. Also, I'd recommend using google to research your question thoroughly before posting a question, as there is plenty of information out there on this very topic. http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3512228/gaining-fps-dropping-lower-settings-changing-resolution.html is a good one. If any one bothers to reply to your post, it is an attempt to help you. Your limited testing and info points to a bottleneck in your system, likely your cpu. It is then up to you to research what that means, and further understand it. Yet instead you respond with a passive aggressive insult because a random person on the internet didn't hold your hand tighter and write a novel for you? THAT is not how this forum is meant to be used
  6. Thinking on this further, you may want to reconsider the 1080 ti / 2080 choice. If you are only gaming on a 24" monitor, as I said above, you don't need above a 1080p display. I have a 1070 ti and get consistent frame rates above 250 on games like CS:GO, which is more than any 144hz display could handle anyways. So you may want to consider taking a few hundred bucks out of your GPU budget, get something like a good 1070 ti, and get a better monitor with 144hz, freesync/gsync, and an ips panel. Spending the money on a 1080ti/2080 just to drive a 24" at higher resolutions would be more of a bragging rights decision than something you'd actually notice. Gaming is just better at 1080p on 24's: Consistently higher framerates, run at higher detail settings,make for a gaming experience that is smoother, and more visually appealing than one run at lower frames at lower detail but higher res. Just my $0.02 ($0.06 at this point, people needlessly pushing 4k is a trigger for me I think...)
  7. I just read through all of the posts. If you have saved up for a 1080ti, Definitely go with something like the MG248Q (1080p, 144hz, Freesync). going from 60hz to 144hz with freesync will be much more noticeable than 1080p to 1440p at 24". The high refresh will look great for fast twitch games that are easy to run like CS:GO, and freesync will keep your hard to run AAA+ titles looking smooth when the frame rates drop. TLDR Get a 1080 ti and a 1080p monitor with 144hz refresh and freesync
  8. If you are only considering a 24" display, don't bother going above 1080p; you really would struggle noticing a difference unless you sit super super close to the monitor. It will just make your games harder to drive, and lower your framerates. Frame rates are usually the most important quality to look for in a monitor, so assuming your purpose is gaming, maximizing that should be your focus. I think I saw that you are limited to an Hdmi 1.4 output, so that means your fastest possible display is a 1080p @ 120hz. The best 24" monitor in your budget will have: - 1080p resolution - 120hz+ refresh (maximum of hdmi 1.4), probably wind up with 144hz as it is most common - ips panel If you are looking at somehow upgrading your GPU, sticking with 1080p gets you monitors with freesync within your budget (like the Asus MG248Q, $249). So you can either upgrade to an AMD gpu for freesync, or 10xx or 20xx series NVIDIA card to take advantage of that. Despite what some of the other posts have said 4k, even 1440P will be a complete waste of your money at this size. Spend that money on syncing tech, faster refresh rates, or an ips panel.
  9. Suitable resolution is all a matter of how far you sit away from the screen. if you sat far enough away from the screen, you wouldn't see a difference between 1080p/1440p/4k, but since you are so close, and the screen is so big, the pixels are big enough to see There are a bunch of graphs you can google, this one is just the first one i grabbed: For how far away you are sitting, you probably may want to go with either a smaller monitor, or step up to 1440p. With that said, you may have difficulty running anything higher than 1080p with only a gtx 1060 with suitably high frame rates, and most gamers will say that frame rate is far more important than resolution. Hope this helps
  10. Following intently: Just built a new rig with a 1070 ti and find it a bit overkill on my 1080p 60hz samsung monitor... I've been looking at an Acer XB271HU bmiprz, but may be able to save some money/ get something sooner with a Freesync equivalent.
  11. Agreed on this; I am running 2000W in an otherwise stock car, and just get a bit of headlight dimming when a blast my system, so far no alternator or battery issues after 4 years. Sorry, wheel controls did just mean the buttons on the steering wheel No autopilot for me ahahah, didn't work out too well for Tesla, don't think I can do any better... Just volume up/down and track changing is all i need Yupp, most wiring in vehicle is pre-fused and seperated so each line is very low power and unusable for amps/ other equipment (carPC) Sorry for being quiet, forgot that I turned off email notifications and just thought no one was interested enough to reply lol
  12. Hahaha, I like this post. 1. Sounds system will be about ~1500+ watts, the car will most likely have a beefed up alternator or an extra one, so power draw while the car is running is of very little concern (though still the goal is to be drawing 20-50w when all is said and done). And this will be going into a Lexus; not very concerned about robbing the horsepower. 2. The vehicle will have keyless entry, so I would look for power off of a line that detects when the key is in range (the body control module would most likely receive some form of power when this happens), and begin booting the system then (is the plan at least). Then modifiying the bios so some sort of dummy screen is immediately displayed upon vehicle start if the comp has not yet fully booted. 3. This is kind of funny, I actually am an engineer that works in powertrain feature calibration for Ford lol; so I know for a fact that you are right about that. This is going in a luxury car, so I don't care about engine performance parameters at all (which can be siphoned off of the OBDII port easily enough anyways), trying to write your own software to be controlled by a custom made PC would be very very dangerous and take forever to do... Just audio, nav, and steering wheel integration for me:) 4. I am leaning towards starting with something like Centrafuse Auto, and then perhaps doing a custom skin. I've run a trial version on my PC and it seems to do everything I'd need it to do, and operates like my current double din head unit in one of my other cars; it could just look a little better, so I think a skin for it would be a nice touch. In the end you are right, it is a challenge, and could be done easier/better (buy a better car, buy a double din head unit, stick it in the dash and be done; though it'll look like aftermarket garbage), but where's the fun in that? --- As for what I want out of the project: I want to have navigation, audio, steering wheel controls; maybe even some RGB ambient lighting control (cuz everything is better with RGB). Still undecided on touchscreen/ having a custom controller put into the center console I'm an all or nothing kind of guy, as most of the times it's easier to do a complete system standalone, than integrate into what's already there. So i would most likely do a custom dash panel for the screen, fully custom audio (bypass amps and existing system entirely), and a custom carputer to run it all. The only "integration" from the car would be the power, and I'd like to have the steering wheel buttons input as well (this shouldn't be too difficult as I have seen custom Arduino-based chips that decode the control buttons to act like keyboard strokes; just setting those up as macros to control the carPC front end would be cool) The only thing I don't really know too much about is how to build a pc that isn't a power hungry gaming rig; I watch most of LTT's videos, but very seldom do they ever talk about power-sipping parts, or components that aren't gaming oriented, so I'm looking for background from someone who has built a carpc with some success, or a super low power pc. Pro-Tip: Here is a great resource for custom CarPC parts (power supplies and such) and info https://store.mp3car.com/
  13. I'm looking into building a carputer for my car, but the info that's out there is very sporadic, some being from 2005, some 2009, and one recent 2015 (though that one put an skylake i7 in his car, which im 99% sure is complete overkill). Has anyone here done a full carputer build? I'm aware you can implement tablets into vehicles, but I'd like to do something that can be better integrated into the vehicle; integrating wheel controls, great sound quality DSP's for the accompanying SQ system build, most likely with a 10" Liliput touch screen and perhaps secondary screen modded into the dash. It'd be neat to see Linus make up a small, energy-lite PC with quick boot times and see it modded into the Lambo; I'm just apprehensive about the process going into it because of all the fluctuating voltages and such, and how to integrate a custom system and make it seem like it could've been stock. Any resources are appreciated
  14. This tech looks super cool. One of the drawbacks to projectors (though minor) was the expense of superlong redmere hdmi cables to reach the projector location; this seems to solve that!
  15. If you want a better gaming system, save your money up and build a nice budget gaming rig. There's a guy named Linus that makes some good youtube guides on how to do this and keep it cheap Again though, I would be surprised if you got more than $50 for your PC; so don't go making plans that you'll be able to sell for what you put into it, then you can get an XBOX one with it. Unless you have a friend you don't like that you are ripping off for $400, it's just not a realistic plan.
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