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About adgjk

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location


  • CPU
    Intel i7 8700k
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Z370 Professional Gaming i7 10Gb
  • RAM
    64GB Kingston Fury
  • GPU
    EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R5
  • Storage
    Crucial - MX300 1.1TB 2.5" SSD, Crucial - MX200 1.1TB 2.5" SSD, Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
  • PSU
    EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850W
  • Display(s)
    Alienware AW3418DW
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-D15
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    RME Babyface Pro
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

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  1. Ok makes sense, I just ordered an 8 port. What I think I'm going to do is have the modem and switch inside the closet, conntect J1-J5, and the modem to the switch (using 6 ports total), and then my router will be plugged into one of the available wall ports throughout the house, and my desktop into another. Should take a day or two for the Amazon order to go through, but I'll try and remember to come back and update.
  2. So, basically I'd need to buy a cheap unmanaged switch, plug in J1 - J6, and then the rest of my setup is good? I'd just plug my router into one of the wall ports and it should pass through to all ports in the house? Yeah, I noticed it said 10/100 on the back, but I think that's only for the phone line. On the front side of the wall ports, there is a phone jack and a data jack, and with the jumpers you can use just one of them at a time. Maybe it will turn out that it's still limited in speed, but I'd like to try and get this working if possible, as if it is gigabit speeds, then it would definitely be faster than powerline. Now, since only ports J1 - J5 are wired up (J6 is empty), could I get away with something like this, or would you recommend something else? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1S21A58JVVAXE&keywords=gigabit+switch&qid=1556035647&s=gateway&sprefix=gigabit%2Caps%2C249&sr=8-3
  3. Hey everyone, I recently moved into a new apartment (rental, so I'm limited to pretty much keeping the same network setup), and was happy to see that they had RJ45 data ports in the wall. Unfortunately, when plugging in ethernet cables, nothing is recognized. I've done a bit of digging and some exploring since then, as I'd really like to get this to work. In the closet, there is some sort of a network panel, which looks like the first image below. I have checked all the jumpers, and made sure that they are jumping the "data" pins, and not "voice" pins. I have done the same with two wall jacks (second picture), and jumped the data pins, which the voice pins are left uncovered (there is white plastic covering the voice pins, but they are not jumped). Finally, I have plugged an ethernet cable from my router into one wall jack, and then tried to plug my computer into a second wall jack (both are jumped to data), but nothing gets picked up.... I have also tested each ethernet cable directly into the router with my laptop, and they work. This is really bugging me, as my modem can only sit in one place in this apartment, and it's not where my desktop is. I'm paying for 300mbps down, but at the moment I need to use a powerline adapter to reach my desktop (cannot have cables running over the floor here) and the fastest speed I'm getting from that is about 45mbps down. On a side note, I've never seen network panels like these before, either in the closet or in the wall jacks. Has anyone else. I also see that there are RJ45 ports labelled J1 - J6 in the closet (first picture). Do these need to go into some sort of switch? Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
  4. Good to know. That's what I'd hoped, I just thought maybe their description was a little misleading? I feel like it should be something more along the lines of: M2_1 and SATA3_0, SATA3_1 share lanes. If either one of them is in use, the others will be disabled (instead of M2_1, SATA3_0 and SATA3_1 share lanes). Maybe I'm just overtired
  5. I linked the board in my original post
  6. I was hoping that I could get something cleared up before I spend money on some new and larger HDDs/SSDs. My motherboard is an AsRock Fatal1ty z370 Professional Gaming i7. It has 8 physical SATA ports on the board, as well as 3x m.2 ports. I am currently only using SATA drives, and do not plan on buying any m.2 drives. I was thinking that I'd be able to buy 8 separate drives and have them all work, but upon reading the specifications on AsRock's website here, I'm not sure if that's possible. Now, will this only be affected if I were to buy an m.2 drive (this is what I'm hoping), or can I only have a max of 6 drives on this motherboard, even if they're all SATA (this is what I'm thinking)? I feel like I already have drives plugged into SATA3_0 and SATA3_1, but I haven't looked inside my computer since I built it over a year ago, so I could be wrong.
  7. So they definitely want the files, but they also want access to his iTunes account. If he has previously synced his iPhone with this computer, then it will be a "trusted" device, so they won't need to type in the pass code on his iPhone to sync that and get any images from there. If we cannot do that, then so be it, and the computer files will have to suffice. I'll just put the drive in a USB caddy and hook it up to a different machine if that's the case. But the main goal is unlocking the computer as the original owner, so that we can attempt to sync the iPhone with iTunes.
  8. Thanks, and this is the same whether it's a local account or a Microsoft account?
  9. Thanks, I'll look into that. I believe it's a Windows 10 laptop, but I haven't seen it so I'm unsure. I'm hoping it's not encrypted. If it isn't, how can the password be reset? Does it need to be on a Microsoft account in order to do this?
  10. Hi there, One of my co-workers siblings has recently passed away, and she and her family would like access to his computer and iPhone so that they can keep the photos on there. I realize that an iPhone cannot be unlocked without a pass code or fingerprint, but they are hoping that he had it linked to iTunes on his computer so that it can at least perform a backup and take any photos currently on the device and put them on his computer. What I think needs doing, is taking a backup of the computer first (any recommendations on methods or software for this?) and then trying to gain access to his login. Failing that, they would only be able to pull the images off of the hard drive. I have not seen the computer in question, but I am assuming it is somewhat recent and uses Windows 10 (they know for a fact it's not a Mac). I may update the post at a later date if the computer situation is differs. We basically would like to know the best practice when trying to gain access, just so that we don't accidentally delete or corrupt any data. Thank you
  11. I feel like it could be to do with a Microsoft update... When I checked my latest Windows updates, the last time something was installed (before diagnosing this) was 14th Jan. When I was renaming the folder, I seem to remember it saying date created 14th Jan too, or something made me think that the file was created/last modified then... Anyway, a few days later and it's still going good!
  12. I found this yesterday, when I noticed my PC was running louder than normal. I opened up task manager and saw that service. Googled it, several people just said to right click and end process; this didn't work. I went through other articles that had me doing full virus scans, troubleshooting with command line in safe mode, turning off several services with command line and restarting them again etc etc... None of these worked. I was about to post my own question about it here and found yours. I followed your instructions, and sure enough, there was WMI at the bottom of services as a non Microsoft Service. I rebooted in safe mode, changed the filename (in C:/windows/wmi) and booted back to my desktop. So far so good, I'm running at 2% CPU instead of about 42%. I'm not sure what could have started this though. I've not used my desktop as much in the New Year, as all of my work has been on my laptop, but I don't remember this happening before the New Year when I was using it almost every day... Anyway, thanks for your help!
  13. Using the method you linked from that Reddit post. Took a few attempts - Newegg would sometimes annoyingly log me out and that would screw up my speed when adding to the cart and checking out. A couple of times I "placed" the order, only to have it cancelled later via email because it wasn't in stock. I think it was 3rd time lucky though!
  14. Just to update - I managed to buy an 8700k and it's been delivered! Just waiting on my Asrock z370 professional gaming i7 and I can get building I decided to go for this particular board because I will eventually build a high speed file server and wanted to use 10gb ethernet. This board has it built in so there's no need to buy an add in card, and for the price it really seemed worth it! (also got a free 120GB SSD from Newegg)
  15. Does anyone know if the size of a Noctua NH D15 will impact GPU placement on X299 boards? Specifically the ASRock X299 Taichi? I know that Noctua have made an altered version of this cooler, but I already have this part and it has 2 fans instead of 1. Thanks Edit: I'll look a little longer before posting next time. I found this link which says the NH D15 is compatible with the X299 Taichi http://noctua.at/en/nh-d15/comp#socket_3985_manuf_37