cyberdork
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Dual lock isn't a terrible idea. My main concern was the cable modem. The coax going into the rear is brand new RG6 and is really rigid and difficult to work with. Having that modem locked into position will definitely make it easier to work with.
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Building a wooden desk case (haven't decided 3/4" MDF or plywood). Part of my intent is to clear off the top of my desk. Currently I have my cable modem, router, and home camera DVR sitting on the desk and intend to mount them inside of the desk. The challenge I'm currently researching is how to mount everything. My list of mounting and current ideas is rather short. Motherboard: Threaded inserts in wood with stand-offs screwed into them. Motherboard mounted to stand-offs like normal. Video card (laying flat with PCI-E riser cable): No ideas Power supply: No ideas HDD/SDD: L brackets Router/Modem/DVR: No ideas I've been debating attempting to disassemble the router, modem, and DVR to try and drill holes in the feet, screw them down, and then close them up. Any other ideas involve really ghetto hold downs made from terribly bent thin gauge sheet metal. Can anyone recommend any builds where I could reference mounting methods or recommend any clever ideas?
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Followed every step critically step by step and tested the process with the back up version of the bios. Rebooted my computer to a black screen. Tried rebooting over and over while it was still powered on. I had to physical pull the plug out of the wall and turn it back on and it magically came back to normal. When the computer came back up I was normal 1080 resolution and everything looked fine. I opened Afterburner to nothing on the graphs displayed and everything erased, not a single field was filled in. Opened up device manager and found the graphics driver was still disabled so I re-enabled and rebooted. All is well now. Made me realize I am not comfortable bricking my card over a silent fan mode even if it still has the possibility of working.
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My guess is dead. It was poorly implemented from the start and was neglected and forgotten about. It's sad that this series brought me to the forum, yet now it's the thing driving me away from lack of interest.
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I brought this point up in the part 2 thread (disappointed to not hear any kind of response about it). However, now that I know that they were using antifreeze it kind of makes since due to incompatibility of different types of antifreezes and PVC/CPVC. Since this wasn't suppose to be a long term set up, I doubt they would develop problems in the time frame of use. There are a lot of times where I cringe watching these videos as others have stated. Needle nose pliers to tighten fittings? A masonry bit to drill holes through metal? The needle nose I can forgive since it will get the job done, but if you've ever used a drill, it's PAINFULLY obvious the differences in a masonry bit vs wood/metal. It was funny and all but save some face and obmit these clips. It's disheartening to see such a complex and interesting build being constructed using embarassing methods.
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It was a huge disappointment when COD4 punkbuster started kicking for mouse wheel binds for fire. The deagle would fire as fast as you could scroll. Easy kills emptying a deagle into someone within a second. Years ago I use to play a paintball mod through half life, but VAC did not ban this bind. As far as macro's go, I wouldn't risk it.
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Entering to win. Would allow me to donate my 3570k build to my father who refuses to upgrade from his Core 2 Duo :-X
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For some reason I thought they were in Canada. This seems like a good winter time project, but I can imagine their cooling capabilities will be effect by ambient temperature and sun. This whole build reminds me of a build of a guy that put his radiator in a crawlspace under his house. Absolutely incredible build: http://www.overclock.net/t/1024268/sponsored-l3p-d3sk-silent-work-gaming-station
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Unfortunately I cannot link it since I am at work, but there is a video on youtube where someone has already attempted this. I cannot remember the reasoning but it did not work and if I recall, actually had worse results than a PC water cooling kit. It wasn't the most professional test but then again when you're attaching a car radiator to a computer, you're kind of "ghetto rigging" things regardless.
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I wonder what kind of benchmarks they are going to perform. I still haven't heard anything about a diagram of the layout. If the loop is super simple and goes from computer A to computer B, and so on, I can't imagine temperatures on the last computer are going to be anywhere near acceptable with computers under load. I WANT TO SEE A LAYOUT DIAGRAM!
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Loved the video. Interesting project. I'm jealous I cannot do things like this. It did however raise a couple concerns/questions. 1) I could be totally wrong, but isn't PVC/CPVC cheaper than copper? Hell the ease in assembly would be worth it to me using plastic over copper. Not to mention PVC/CPVC has less friction loss. Not a significant difference but true none-the-less. 2) What pump was decided on and how did it end up performing? 3) Is there a diagram on how the loop is constructed? Can't wait for the new video!
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AIO - Fans set to intake or exhaust?
cyberdork replied to Psychobob's topic in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling
Quick tip with AIO coolers: Use them in a pull configuration blowing them out of the case so you can clean the fins easily. A push orientation will force dust onto the fins and trap it.