EmeraldFlame

Yes you should switch. I'm not a big fan of modem/router combo units normally, but the WRT54 series is so outdated at this point that it is by far better. With the WRT54G you are talking about extremely slow connection speeds of 54Mbps and only 2.4GHz whereas with that new unit you have access to the new AC standards for wireless which depending on support can go as fast as 1300Mbps on a 5GHz network. If you're internet is slower than 54Mbps then you honestly may not see much of a difference, but any type of intranet activity (streaming from one computer to another, file transfers, etc) over the network will be more than an order of magnitude faster. You can use the linksys router as a wifi extender, however, you will need to reconfigure it and turn DHCP off and throw it into bridge mode. Just be aware that it will be glacially slow compared to the other access point.

The 1900AC should be a pretty good router/AP for anyone and I haven't read of any huge problems with them. So my question would be. When you have these issues, how far away from the router/AP are you? What kind of obstacles are in the way? And are you on 2.4 or 5GHz? You also only mentioned having issues on one device. Do any other devices have issues on this network?

I assume your talking about windows built in 'System Restore' utility? In that case the answer is 'it depends'. You can actually change the amount of space that system restore takes up, you can find this by going to Control Panel->Recover->Configure System Restore->Configure Depending on how much space you give it, it will dynamically store as many points as it can fit into that deleting the oldest ones when a new one gets made. I currently give my system 10GB of space which it is using 7.28GB worth and in that, it has 4 restore points saved. However, that space can vary widely from system to system.

I'm about 80% sure that 'Multi-Lane' is just another term for an 8087 connector. There seems to be a 3Ware brand 8087 to SATA cable for sale on amazon that seems to confirm this: http://www.amazon.com/3WARE-Cable-Multi-lane-Internal-SFF-8087/dp/B000FBYS2U

Yup, if you want to separate them most of the time you will want to choose AHCI mode for your drives, unless you have one of the higher end SSDs that are running NVMe, than use that for that SSD.

There are a bunch of different pieces of software that can do this. I really like Macrium Reflect: http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx

Filled it out for you but just wanted to mention one extra thing. I would seriously like to see a USB 3.0 or USB 3.1 (once the headers get finalized) version of the IU01. It's just a handy thing to have especially since most boards only have 1 or 2 3.0 headers.

The problem that many people have with it is that the FBI doesn't even really have reason to believe that there is data on the phone at all. The phone in question was a phone provided to them by their employer. The FBI have already obtained the call and SMS logs from the service provider which didn't indicate anything on that particular device. Furthermore, the terrorists had went through the trouble of destroying two other phones. If there was actually data on this device it would be reasonably assumed it also would have been destroyed. Beyond even that, they don't need a special firmware to do this. There are ways to obtain the data otherwise, but since they know there isn't anything worth getting they don't want to spend the money or time. They could very easily desolder the memory, make copies of it in it's entirety, solder a copy back in, give 10 passwords a try until it is wiped, when it is move onto another copy of the chip. Rinse and repeat until you get it unlocked. This is a relatively common tactic in forensics, but is time intensive and can be extremely expensive. If they actually wanted the data from this device, they would have been doing that immediately and would have had it unlocked already. This case is about setting precedent against encryption, not about this individual iPhone. Also once it's created and used, the legal precedence will mean that the software can't be destroyed. There are already hundreds of phones lined up waiting to use that legal precedence. Plus both the Government and Apple have had very serious leaks of data. Just because they are big doesn't mean they are untouchable. That OS would absolutely get out into nefarious hands at which point all iOS devices would be compromised. Android would very obviously be the next and with legal precedence set, there wouldn't be much google could do to fight it. Then there is the issue of the international legal precedence. If the US did demand this, then you can guarantee that other countries will start demanding it too increasing the likelihood even further that it would be leaked, plus the fact that this would mean enemy nations would have the ability to access any phone they wanted to also.

I feel that it is worth mentioning that some publications, primarily PC Perspective, have demonstrated that a Multi-SSD raid doesn't necessarily increase random IO bandwidth, but it does seem to significantly improve latency/seek times though, at least when under high random IO load because it is better able to balance the load between the multiple drives. That is something a user may notice, but could be very hard to quantify.

Yeah, as @Enderman said it sounds like the pointers just got wiped out somehow. Possibly a bad sector or just some random corruption hit that pointer table. The files themselves may still actually be there and using a program like Pirisoft's Recuva may allow you to access them again.

Look at the sticker and see if you can find the exact model number for your hard drive since the WD blacks tend to change year to year. You will have to replace the PCB on the hard drive. This is extremely simply and normally is just 2 or 3 screws to undo. But to get you directed to the right part we need to know the exact model number. Also Black drives typically have a pretty long warranty so you may be able to have it replaced free of charge for you by WD and @Captain_WD could probably help you there.

Damn those are expensive as hell. I watched the video and thought 'Hey those would be nice, I do a lot of photography and have been looking at getting some decent lights anyway' then found the price. It's like $600+ for a single 1'x1' light. Guess I'll be looking for cheaper alternatives. Heck I might try to track down who westcott get's their LEDs from and just make the light myself. If I can find the OEM manufacturer of those LEDs it would be pennies on the dollar to just make it myself.

You'll actually see very similar real-world performance between these two drives. The real difference between the two is that the 951 is an OEM only part and the 950 Pro is a full fledged consumer product. This means the 951 is normally pretty hard to find actually for sale, and when you do it will not come with anything. No warranty, no manual, no product support from the manufacturer, no retail packaging, no accesories, nothing. The 950 pro will come with that stuff, the most important typically being the warranty. This is simply incorrect. There are AHCI and NVME variants of the 951. While they can get hot, people who have tested them for that issue have shown that you have to write at full speed to the drive for an extended period of time for it to be an issue, and at that point the drive just throttles itself anyway. The 950 Pro has similar issues.

Well it depends on the underlying technology. Some M.2 SSDs will be faster, others will be more or less the same as 2.5" SSDs. Some M.2 SSDs are actually still SATA based so with that they are limited to the 6Gbps/550MBps speeds we are used to seeing in 2.5" drives. However other M.2 SSDs do actually use a PCIe x4 based interface natively which has considerably more bandwidth close to 32Gbps. We haven't seen anything really maxing this out yet, but theoretically we will probably see things hit around 3-3.5GBps give or take a little bit depending on overhead. Furthermore there are 2 standards for handling operations within the drive, AHCI and NVMe. AHCI is an older protocol made primarily for hard drives while NVMe is a newer standard which handles queuing of requests better for SSDs. You will typically see higher speeds, lower latency, and lower overhead with NVMe. As for the size, there really isn't a defined "this is for laptops, this is for desktops". The second longest variant has seemed to be settling around the standard for everything. But some smaller drives just don't need the physical space. No reason to make something bigger than it needs to be basically. As for other cards, this varies by motherboard on how it is wired and keyed. Some MoBo's M.2 slots can be used as a traditional MiniPCIe slot in which case any MiniPCIe cards will work in it. That is basically just WiFi/Bluetooth cards.

Just because you have a family of mechanics doesn't mean you won't need maintenance. Things will still wear out or break and need replaced and parts can get pretty pricey, especially on performance vehicles. Not only that, don't remove your cats, especially if this is going to be a daily driver. Modern catalytic converters remove a substantial amount of smog from your vehicles exhaust. I know it's the cool thing to do in the ricer and boy racer communities because of the 'power you gain' but realistically removing a modern day cat will only net you about 3-5 horsepower, if that. The rest of like to breathing and not living in smog like China so keep the damn things on. You will never notice a difference in performance, this isn't the 70's anymore. Not only that, just because you don't have emissions checks, it is still actually federal law that you can't remove catalytic converters. If someone wanted to turn you in on it, the absolutely could and there are pretty hefty fines that go along with it.

This can't be right, I'm assuming you made some type of typo and I'm going off of the $21k mark as that seems more reasonable since you are a student. I'm not going to sugarcoat this. You can't afford this car while expecting to manage any kind of life and you are deluding yourself if you think you can. You would be talking about upwards of 60% of your income on just the loan. Add in the insurance cost which depending on where you live is like to be in the $150-200 a month range (if not more) and you are talking somewhere above 70% of your income. And I'm assuming you have no idea how much even basic repairs on GTR's cost. Replacing just the brake pads and rotors on these cars will cost you $5,000+ assuming you are only buying the parts and are performing the maintenance yourself. If you got lucky enough to only need 1 minor repair during a year of ownership it would easily throw you over 100% off your income from that year on just the car. That doesn't take into account any money you need for things like groceries, rent, utilities, tuition, clothing, gas (which this car will use quite a lot of), taxes, and other various costs of life. If you want a fun car to drive that is also relatively affordable look at used versions of some of these options: Ford Fiesta ST, Ford Focus ST, Scion FR/S, Subaru BRZ, Subaru WRX, Mazda Miata, VW Gulf R, Nissan 350z, and many many others. Used models of these can all be had relatively affordably as long as you aren't super picky about the options you want. You still might not be able to afford some of these. But if you are looking for a performance car in your price range, those are some things to start looking at.

If you don't have a pro version of windows, since the normal versions don't have BitLocker, you can use VeraCrypt. VeraCrypt is an open-source encryption program that supports various encryption methods. VeraCrypt was originally based upon TrueCrypt. After TrueCrypt was abandoned a new team took up the reigns, had a security audit done, and addressed the problems they found. It's a great and free product.

Yeah NF-F12's should be vibrating or shivering like that. They are amazingly well balanced and should stay pretty much perfectly still even when running, especially when mounted. It sounds like you just got a bunk fan, get it replaced.

Pain in the a**

If you don't have an interest in buying McAfee then I would go ahead and remove it so you can get rid of this annoyance. While I'm not sure on the newer versions of McAfee older versions would keep you locked out of windows firewall, but since you didn't pay would also turn off their own firewall leaving you open, which you don't want. As a word of caution, McAfee can be a PITA to uninstall, but last I checked they have an uninstall utility on their website somewhere. Once you get them removed make sure you pick up some sore of AV software. W8 has Windows Defender built in, but it isn't the best of AV software and tends to lag behind in detection rates. I highly recommend Avast as it offers very robust features, settings, and good detection rates for free (although you do need to give them your email). There are other alternatives to like AVG which like Avast has a free version.

McAfee has it's own firewall so it disables the Windows one so that you don't have conflicts. If you want to open up certain ports or applications to the internet, you need to do that through McAfee's settings, not Windows, with your current configuration. You may be able to turn off McAfee's firewall and re-enable the windows one, but I'm not 100% sure on that, McAfee tends to be a PITA to work with. If you really really want to use Windows firewall you may need to uninstall McAfee and go with an AV software that doesn't have its own firewall.

You are correct. Dreamweaver is a bloated P.O.S. that no one professional uses anymore. It's decent for beginners because it does have some tools that make some things easier, but overall it's performance is terrible. I did Web-Dev for a while as my full-time, and still do it as a freelancer on the side. Personally I've come to find the I really like JetBrains PHPStorm as an IDE, it's HTML, CSS, Javascript, MySQL functionality is great too even though 'PHP' is in the name. I use Visual Studio anytime I need to do anything in VB.NET/C#/ASP A lot of people still really like using Eclipse too.

Literally almost any store in the world. Isopropyl is just rubbing alcohol. Most gas station convenience stores will have it. Grocery stores/super markets. Pharmacies. Eye glass stores, the list goes on.

You don't have to choose one or the other, you can PWM control your fans and the pump both if you'd like.

I really wouldn't recommend this, if you happen to get water anywhere you may cause a short. Isopropyl dries nearly instantly, is cheap, and is non-conductive, just use that.