xc3ll

Hi Guys, I'm playing my third run of CP2077. Done with the main questline, done with almost everything else. Suddenly, the game starts crashing 5-60s after loading. Everytime. It does not matter which savegame I select. I've changed nothing, was just playing along when this started... Any ideas? edit: I removed any overclock/undervolting, updated GPU driver and checked my RAM already.

There can be many reasons for that. Easiest would be to rule out any software influence first. Easiest way is to boot to bios and see if it is still there. I've seen pink tint when windows was trying to run HDR on a non-HDR monitor for some reason... Next is the cable and ports on GPU and Monitor. You changed the cable already, but can you go to a different port? E.g. HDMI, DP or DVI (whatever you are not using and is present on all devices). I assume you do not use VGA, correct? Last would be to check your PC on a different display (e.g. TV) to determine if the monitor or your pc is the issue. But then, you definetly have a serious hardware issue. Many of the typical problems can be repaired at home, if you have the time for that. So do not throw away your GPU or Monitor when you are at this point. edit: You might also want to check the color settings on your monitor. Likely not the reason for your issue, but it takes just 2min to check..

I would also recommend buying the highest speed ones. As @DarkSwordsmansaid, real-world speed is a gamble and almost always significantly lower than on the box. So with a 1200Mbps kit, the highest I've ever seen was an average of ~350MBps - Which is not too bad, actually.

Yes, there are adapters on amazon both from 6-pin (PSU) to 8-pin (GPU) and the other way around. For a 980, you can safely do this. Probably this is, what you are looking for: https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B07BPP5F65 I would not recommend running a 4090 from a single 6-pin though, even if there are adapters for that too

Btw.: I have to re-install my driver from time to time, as windows keeps installing bad ones over the manufacturers driver. I do have different issues with the windows one, but is there a way to block is permanently?

Be careful to buy the right connector. There is SMA and SMA-RP. The difference is where the pin is located: on the "male" or "female" connector. I've just learned that by ordering the wrong extensions 50Ohms is correct.

Have you configured your router to have the same or different SSIDs for 2.4 and 5 GHz? I just set mine to have different ones to force devices to either use 5G or 2.4G edit: If you can't see the 5GHz SSID, then I would agree: Probably bad driver

Has anyone results on hardcore burn-in tests on the existing OLEDs in Laptops or the Alienware? I am *very* careful with my OLED TV an notice some slight burn in on plain gray surfaces from time to time. If I would use it as a monitor for 100hr, it would definetly have noticeable effects... EDIT: I do not want to make any statement to the reliability of OLED monitors. It is definetly a different kind of technology, than my first-gen TV. Just asking a genuine question about data on that.

Typically, consumer devices are rated to not exceed 40°C on the outside. You can test this, by fully gripping on the power brick for a short time (<30s). It can get unconfortable warm, but if you feel pain and have to release it, it might be damaged.

Wipe of the dust and any significant dirt first with any clean cotton cloth. Then use a clean microfiber cloth for car cleaning (non scratching) damp with destilled water. Never wash this cloth, just replace it after 1-2 years or so. This way, you avoid any streaks. Never use anything besides water on your screen. It might damage your anti-reflective coating.

Hi, as far as I do understand: You do want to use a desktop at low power state instead of specialized synology hardware as a NAS? If so, there may be options. However, please elaborate on your available hardware and what exactly you want to achieve. Lowering the power of a typical desktop to a few watts is generally rather inefficient, as x86/64 is not the most efficient low power architecture and desktop PSU's have almost no efficiency at the <<20W operating point. So, a low power ARM synology will be always more efficient. But so may be a rasberry pi based home made NAS. And the initial investment for a Raspi is lower than a synology. In my opinion, you should not buy synology for the hardware. You should for the software, though. They are the "apple of NAS" - It is quite easy to use, but very powerful (if you want). But, you can do the same (and better) yourself for a lower price, if you want to put the hours in. I do like tinkering, but for my NAS I've bought a low-end synology. After setup, it is running with minimal maintanance since 2015. It is one of my favorite pieces of HW, because it is relentlessly doing it's job - At avg. of <5W for a single bay!

First things first: Can you install any monitoring software, e.g. MSI afterburner? Then, play your favorite games and take a look to GPU usage, CPU usage, temperatures and frequencies over time. If you want, please post the graphs here. This should give you a clear indication, if you even need to overclock and if so - how much. Just overclocking for the fun of it is fine. But if gaming performance is your goal, you really need to log data first.

TL:DR: CPU is faster, but mainboard is more accurate. It really depends on your configuration. Judging from your signature, you do have a rather modest TDP cpu with a very powerful cooler and a well ventilated case. In such a scenario, the CPU cooler is able to keep the processor in check without case fans. If it heats up more than typically, it is the result of increased case temperature caused by concurrent GPU activity - That's when you need your case fans to ramp up. So, setting the case fans to ramp up ~5° later than the CPU fan should yield you almost ideal results and very fast reaction time. Your CPU Fan should reach full speed at 70°C, your case fans at 75-80°C based on your target noise level. And if you want to go crazy, I can only recommend "Speedfan". It is a software tool to run very complex fan settings based on multiple temperature reads. While a pain to set up, it is able to give you the best cooling control. If you want to go this road and need support, I'm happy to help But honestly, just using CPU will probably give you 95% optimal results with your cooler/case.

Just ordered the 5600 (non X), as I found it on sale. Overall upgrade cost incl. RAM and Mainboard is less than a i5-13600k

Yeah, should've read the full specification Okay, 5600X. Still, quite a good deal.

I did not consider the 5600 before, as it is a little older. However, the prices are quite interesting right now! The 5600G is available on sale right now and less expensive than the 5600X. As it is higher clocked, is there any reason to go for the 5600X?

Same here. Those Monitors are sooo slow

Do you have to rely on WiFI and how much you want to pay for it? As long as you have a PCI slot, you can add whatever highend WiFI solution, you want. You can get very good WiFi cards for ~20-40USD. Generally, stability and performance is much better than USB. So, integrated WiFI has only the benefit of less obstruction in your case. Personally, I would pay a little extra for that, but no too much. 50-60USD extra for a proper WiFI integration, maybe.

Also cannot speak for this particular case, but generally: The side panel can absorb noise from components (coil whine, hdd humm, rattling) quite well, as long as there is not too much airflow or fan noise. If you already have a quite PC in a low power state (idle), it can make a significant difference. When you push more and more air to your system, it becomes less effective. At full load of a typical aircooled gaming PC, you will not notice any difference. You can neglect the thermal impact for almost every reasonable build in this case. If you would go full-passive, it might be interesting...

Hi, I've gone from a HyperX Cloud to a Razer Blackshark wireless and did not regret it. Quality is surprisingly good - So far, I've never had a headset, that looked almost as new after more than a year of heavy use. They have used a harder, more "scratchy" type of fabric on cushions and headband, which takes some getting-used-to, but it proved to be much more sturdy to me than leather or typical microfiber. The wireframe headband makes it quite light and avoids any type of squeaking. Also, they do not use any of this rubbery coating, that gets sticky after the first year. For me, this was the best choice for wireless headset for PC-gaming use - but only just for this. It is really good in it's core features, but lacks anything besides that: ANC, bluetooth, 3.5mm audio in, USB audio in, wireless charging. Another downside is, that you need the Software to tweak the Mic to sound natural. The hardware is quite capable, but the default EQ/Noise Cancellation makes it sound waaaay worse, than it is. Regarding Mic/Sound Quality, I would recommend checking out the reviews.

Had this issue with a friends PC. Never really understood it, unfortunately. I assumed, that some mainboard/psu combos do not fully support all power states. We found a workaround by disabling lower power states for sleep in the BIOS, so the mainboard always kept a certain minimum PSU load during sleep. Maybe it is worth a shot? Another workaround would be to go to hibernate instead of sleep, if you can live with the slightly longer wake-up times.

Hi Guys, since I am running out of RAM lately and do not want to invest in my fairly old platform, I am looking for a replacement of my 4790k. As most of todays CPUs are easily capable of running all games on my 3440x1440/100Hz Monitor, my focus is more on efficiency than performance. I run a SFF-case with an Noctua NH-U9S, so I am also thermally limited to ~90W CPU TDP (during gaming) on full GPU load. So, which CPU gives the lowest Watt/FPS at an avg. of 100FPS? If you know any reviews, which have FPS and power-consumption without GPU logged, a link would be also much appreciated!

Don't know the prices in the UK right now, but if within budget: Entry level 8GB Ram Dell XPS13 2 in 1. Simply the best in class.

Asked myself the same question a while ago when the macbook came out. I would consider myself mostly OS-agnostic for my ultrabook these days, so this wasn't a deciding factor. Keyboard, touchpad and display are in the top 90% for both, so I would describe them as equivalent. And that leaves us with: 1. CPU Performance -> Surface Laptop for sure. All things considered, it delivers more than solid performace for a design-oriented, silent, slim, light laptop 2. Battery Life -> MacBook. For most usecases, those devices are designed for, the macbook will last almost twice as long. I went for the surface laptop cause for my daily use I value power over endurance. And I got a pretty good deal on it too, so it was ~65% of the price of the macbook, which further simplified the decision. But for the work you describe, I would go for the macbook (if you compare them at MSRP). It's plenty fast for what you want it to do and you will probably get some benefit from the outstanding battery life.

Hey Guys, I'm thinking about getting soundbar for my LG OLED55B8. Of course, I would like to get atmos since I mainly watch Netflix/Prime and it seems to be available in a decent number of titles. Now I've heard you have to have eARC on your TV to get atmos support, but I could not find any reference to HDMI 2.1 or eARC in the manual. Does this mean the TV only supports atmos on it's internal speakers? For the soundbar I am considering the sonos arc or (if it helps in any way with compatibility) the LG DSN9YG.