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MahtXL

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Occupation
    FanBoy Destroyer
  • Member title
    Nvidia Slayer

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 6700k @4.8 GHZ
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z170A Gaming M5
  • RAM
    16GB's G Skill Rip Jaws 4
  • GPU
    Sapphire RX 5700 XT @2.1 GHZ
  • Case
    NZXT Phantom 410 (Red)
  • Storage
    Kingston SSDNow V+ Series 128GB and 5 HDD's
  • PSU
    Corsair CX750M
  • Display(s)
    27 Inch Samsung Curved Freesync+ 27 Inch LG IPS
  • Cooling
    Corsair H60
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 Vengeance
  • Mouse
    R.A.T. 5
  • Sound
    Kenwood 5.1 Surround 600 watts
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home 64 Bit

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  1. -Extra Info- (video at bottom) Only acts up with brand new discs, or discs that have just been wiped down with a microfiber (to remove any dust/debris/skin flakes etc that may have gotten on them from frequent use). Other discs that are not brand new, and have not just been wiped down go in *mostly* normal though still show some signs of struggle, and may *buzz* at the end of insertion as the console forces them in. (you can hear the drive buzz in the video) This console was bought used about a year ago and was perfectly fine until last week when i went to put in ff16 in preparation for the DLC. Even weirder, it was not doing this when FF7 rebirth launched, that disc went in without issue fresh out of the case. i do not touch the data side of my discs, i do the finger in the hole method to handle them, so i have zero idea how the rollers would have been fine when i bought it and dirty all of a sudden now, but here we are... (never had this issue with any other console) All google searches have come up fairly empty except a few posts on other forums with a similar issue saying cleaning the rollers fixed their issue, most of these posts did not provide a video, and the ones that did were not as severe as my issue. Once the disc is taken, the system has no issues reading the disc. It has no issues reading any type of disc, DVD, Blu Ray, UHD Movie, UHD Game, they all read instantly. It is just disc insertion causing issues. The console did not come with the stand, so laying it flat isn't an option (though some of those posts mentioned above said this made the issue better/non existent) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hoping someone with experience in PS5 repair sees this and can point me in the right direction if its something more severe, or can confirm that yes its time to open the drive and clean the rollers with iso and a q tip. This PS5 is not under warranty. (meaning it would cost 200+ to send in to Sony, if they even offer to take it at all) I would rather take care of this myself as i have the tools and skills to do it. Just need to be pointed in the right direction before i open it up. IMG_9514.mov
  2. So i sadly made the mistake of trusting Corsair, after owning and loving the HS50 wired stereos for about 3 years or so (my model came in their old blue box design) I wanted something wireless so i could comfortably watch movies on my projector at night when booting up the surround would be frowned upon by others in the house :c To get to the point i went for the HS70 Pros, pretty much the same as my old set, except wireless and with virtual surround. Fresh out of the box, charged them up (green light) unplugged "battery level 90 percent in icue" huh okay weird, ill google real quick. According to different forums on their website there is no real battery level tracker or whatever its called in the set, its measuring voltage or something and "guessing" okay cool whatever. I use them for a good 12 hours straight, which is fairly close to the advertised 16, and i go "okay cool, no worries" Oh how i was wrong. I turn them off, plug them in for the night, and by the time i go to use them the next day (plugged in at 1am, unplugged at 5pm) the battery reads 69 percent fresh off the charger, green light was lit and everything, the headset was TURNED OFF, so no power drain/connection to the PC. wtf? I go googling, and phew boy, do these and the HS80's have NOTORIOUS battery issues. Someone says hey try leaving them on, turn off the auto shutdown and plug them in. Okay cool, i try that. And no dice, same issue. half drained when i unplug them. I also tried their reset method of holding mute for 20 seconds with the power off, then turning them back on, still no good. I shoot off a message to corsair support. NO CROSS SHIP PAY FOR YOUR OWN RETURN BOX AND LABEL ??? This was a 140 dollar CAD headset after tax and shipping Corsair, are you actually kidding me? Luckily im within the 30 day newegg return and im thinking these are going right back. (i really hate dealing with newegg returns but it is what it is) Anyways Whats a decent other option thats around 150 CAD shipped? Preferably with a removable mic, or none at all. Cannot be Bluetooth, custom built desktop rig, no Bluetooth on the mobo (unless it comes with its own bluetooth dongle ofc)
  3. Why should we shut up and roll over and take microsofts shit? Thats like saying "yeah guys this game was bad, but at least you can still play the original good one!" Sure thats a true statement but it doesnt excuse Microsoft, or absolve them of guilt. People have a right to be mad about this and demand they change it. Period. They are a company, they make products for US, we dont serve them and kiss their feet thanking them for every little crumb we get, nor should we.
  4. Why, its not like any games tax my 6700k now, why would they magically do so in a few more years? The cpus in the 9th gen consoles arent all that much better, about the same ipc. More cores and threads but i doubt we push past 8 thread min for games if we even get there this gen. 2025 is where i might start to consider and look at other CPU's, that thought is nowhere near my mind at this point. We dont need computers and parts becoming phones that get tossed every year or two for no good reason.
  5. Soft floor was removed from their site.
  6. Many myself included wont accept that as a good answer. Its my computer and if i want to run it on a less secure cpu that lacks a single feature i should be allowed to. Period.
  7. The cpu gen lock will be removed, its one of the top rated feedback complaints on the insider forum, that and remove TPM 2.0 lock. For now they have their heads firmly up their own rears though.
  8. Not the reason. TPM 2.0 isnt new and not limited to 8th gen or newer.
  9. Agree. im on 6700k with no performance issues. I have no idea what microsoft is thinking with this gen requirement. 6 7 8 and 9 are quite literally all the same. They added extra cores and managed to clock a bit higher is about all that changed. I imagine with the internet rage going on around this and tpm, both will be dropped. gen requirement, and tpm down to 1.2. I can almost bet on it.
  10. I understand its early access, but this is such a critical normal function of windows its baffling its broken at all. I cant imagine they only use single monitor systems to develop at microsoft? I cant roll back to 10 or i will lose my access to 11, i do not meet their inane cpu gen requirement (6700k) so ill stick it out and wait for the fix. As long as its not just me with the issue. Ive been in the fast lane/dev channel since 2015 and this is the first time something this critical and upfront has broken. Its gunna be one bumpy year yall.
  11. Heres an image of my taskbar across both monitors, half these apps are open on my second display but my second display taskbar remains blank, i have the correct option toggle on.
  12. Second Monitor Taskbar, No App Icons its just a blank taskbar, despite the option being checked. Did they really not even bother to plug another monitor in while working on windows 11? This is day 1 kind of stuff, alpha build or not.... Anyone got a working second monitor task bar with app icons on it like they should be?
  13. I agree, the Noctua seems way to pricey which is what im trying to avoid, otherwise id slap a dual rad AIO in this and be done with it, but they are going for almost 200 dollars cad now.
  14. Because im running a 5700XT and my bios was from 2016, so i had none of the stability improvements, bug fixes, etc. Case is NZXT Phantom 410, Ram is 2x8GB (16GB Kit) G Skill Rip Jaws V 3200mhz. I needed the PCI updates, and NVME updates etc to take full advantage of the hardware i have, i was running the launch bios of the board so it was VERY outdated and not taking full advantage of my m.2 ssd.
  15. Updated bios and i can no longer achieve 4.5 at a reasonable voltage, and my H60 just doesnt cut it. Liquid coolers above the H60 tier are to expensive, im looking at the Dark Rock Pro 4, or Noctua NH-D15 Its going to need to cool my 6700k @4.5 or better at about 1.3v (used to be 1.250v for stable 4.5) Which one of these is best? Is there something better for the same price? Also whatever happened to the blackout Noctuas? Brown really wont fit in my all red build to well.
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