KnightSirius

Or just look at the stickied PSU Tier List maintained by this very forums PSU enthusiasts who put a lot of effort into testing tons of units and has far more options. Tom's Hardware recommendations may not be bad, but they don't share their methodology (as far as I can tell) and they also earn money from affiliate links which may influence their choices.

GamersNexus did some videos on the topic that are highly relevant. I'd check them out, they should cover most of your questions. As for brand I've only ever really seen ThermalGrizzly used, it's well tested at this point. Worth the extra bit of money to know you're getting something reliable. How Liquid Metal Affects Copper, Nickel and Aluminum (Corrosion Test) Tested for a Year: How Often Should You Change Liquid Metal?

First two are not bad, nice clean look but not very interesting. The last two 'CORE' and 'EVO' though... the text not staying within a single coloured area looks awful. They have done this in their past logos but they had a lot more going on so you didn't really focus on that, whereas these new ones are so barren all I can see is the text that looks incorrectly placed LOL.

Never seen this topic done before but I really like it! For me it was my first build back in December of 2013! i7-4770K (4.5GHz) Swiftech H320 AIO Gigabyte G1. Sniper 5 (Z87) Corsair Dominator Platinum (32GB CL16 1600Mhz) 2 x Samsung 250GB 840 EVOs (RAID 0) MSI GTX 780 Lightning Corsair 750D Seasonic Platinum 1000 W I'm more or less running the same core parts but have lost some along the way. H320 AIO died from pump failure which was replaced once under warranty and happened again due to build up in the loop. Swapped for an NH-D15 in mid-2016. MSI 780 Lightning died after many years of heavily overclocked use (+320 core!). Replaced with an EVGA XC Ultra RTX 2070 January 2019. Seasonic Platinum PSU died in ~2018 or so, it was still under warranty (7 year warranty) but.... no receipt so they only honour 5 years. Now I keep track of my receipts LOL. Now I have an EVGA G2 750w. The core parts has survived ~7 years or so! I am planning to upgrade this winter to Zen3 which will be exciting! If I needed to though I could easily run this for another 3-4 years before beginning to really feel it's age. However, it definitely shows its age in some aspects, especially when I'm working in Unreal Engine or playing more CPU intensive modern games. But it still holds up relatively well in the modern games I'm playing even at 4K which I'm running. (Most recently Plague Tale, Civ VI, Halo etc...)

The PSU Tier List is perfect for when you have these kinds of questions! This unit (SFX-LTI) is placed in B+ Tier (Recommend for Midrange Systems), so it's not bad by any means, but there are better units available. Such as the Silverstone SFX-L (No PCPP link) which is A Tier, or the Fractal Design SFX Gold also A Tier. As for the difference in rankings you can read on what the requirements are for each tier, realistically you are unlikely to have any problems with the unit you chose but there are technically better units available.

$2500 for an LG OLED, Okay. Oh and it still has webOS on it... So what exactly am I getting the benefit of here? On what planet would I buy that over an LG CXPUA [$2,396.99]? Also that's the only reasonably priced OLED unless you want to pay 5 grand for a 1080p non-HDR capable one LOL. and I'm sure this trend continues with older display tech as well. Again... what is the point? Just being pedantic? You're limiting your options for no logical reason. Also the majority of these displays are not the ones consumers are expected to be buying so they have their own commercial "tax" on them, lack features, and may not have the same warranties you'd expect from a consumer model. Anyways, I'm finished contributing to this conversation since it's not providing anybody any useful information.

Tinfoil crackpot theory? This is why I don't bother interacting online a lot. Everything seems to devolve into silly arguments when all I wanted was to share cool TVs I was personally excited about! Anyways, I don't see how what you're suggesting/contributing is any different from what I said... we should be in agreement based on what you wrote. 1) Don't use the features, or just sandbox them (which I didn't mention cause I didn't wanna bother getting into that.) 2) Everything else spies on you anyway. Also, your third option of buy a monitor is illogical, if you need a large format display you only have so many options so just follow your 2nd option and for all intents and purposes you have a computer monitor... and if you need a computer monitor, just buy a computer monitor...

What do I do? Nothing because I disable them. The functionality they provide to me is useless; as is anything a Chromecast or Roku could offer so it's irrelevant in my case. If I were to use them they could harvest many things. Sony takes audio data used for voice commands. Just like Amazon home devices they're always listening waiting for those commands and Vizio was caught automatically opting user in to sending data letting them watch whatever your TV was displaying basically. Chromecast and Roku have many of the same and also different risks. There is no stopping it, only mitigating it and making your data less useful. Everybody is tracking your habits, and building personalized profiles on you, and selling it to companies that maintain data sets used to further their own agendas. Why should I just roll over and let them harvest what they want? They reap the rewards and I get nothing. Pretty unfair deal. That's the issue I and most people care about mitigating not protecting my "Banking and 'private' social media stuff". Clearly you don't really understand or care to understand what these issues are if you're tossing that line around.

Always a mistake to let Smart TV's have access to Wi-Fi beyond updating firmware regardless of manufacturer. If you don't think others are collecting data too that's naive, only difference is they haven't been caught or are hiding in legal grey areas.

Summary Vizio has unveiled their latest 2020 lineup of TVs, with their high end models specs similar to offerings from LG and Sony (HDMI 2.1, 4K@120hz, eARC, FreeSync & HDR) but at a lower price. This is marks their first move into the OLED game. Furthermore they've released updated models from their previously established series'. Quotes My thoughts Been personally holding off buying a new TV specifically for this announcement, after their new lineup was teased in January at CES. Vizio is the king of the affordable but still high end TV market at the moment. If you have the money to go with an LG C series then this won't really interest you but otherwise they have some awesome offerings across the board. Specifically they have support for a lot of new key features for Home Theatre & Gaming like HDMI 2.1, eARC, 4K@120hz, FreeSync and Proper HDR. Their past models have also had great input delay across the board which will likely be improved further with their "ProGaming Engine" features. Hopefully RTINGs will get some samples sent to them or buy a few units to test so we can see just how well they perform! Sources https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2020/07/vizio-announces-plans-to-take-on-lg-sony-with-an-oled-tv-this-fall/

I'd calculate what you paid for it originally (before tax) and knock 40% off the total, then compare to other classified in your area and adjust accordingly. All depends how fast you want to get rid of it.

Honestly, not many ideas coming to mind for this one. The issue persisting in safe mode is a real curve ball. I'd give the Linux off a stick a shot because Linux is so stable compared to windows that if that runs fine at least you know for certain it's not a hardware issue. It's not too difficult to do, just grab the latest version of Ubuntu then download Rufus and create a bootable drive with any spare thumbdrive. Boot manually from the thumbdrive through the BIOS and just don't install it to your system just click on "try ubuntu" instead. You can browse the internet for a few hours if nothing else as firefox comes preinstalled. Also, what are your system specs for reference? Could be useful.

Just took a glance through the thread after seeing your other post. Assuming you've done everything in the linked troubleshooting guide and followed the advice given to you, then there isn't much else we can help you with. Your next options are if you have anybody that has compatible parts they'd be willing to allow you to test your parts with to find what is the problem then that'll help you narrow down if/what component(s) are dead. One of your coworkers for example you mentioned likely has a compatible board; so you could try your CPU in theirs along with their GPU; does it work? Then CPU is not the issue. Now swap in your GPU, still work? It's not your GPU. etc... just through process of elimination and swapping you should be able to pin down which is the bad part and then you just have to start an RMA process with the company, or get an exchange if possible through the retailer it was purchased from. If you can't do that and you had to take a guess, well I suppose I'd start an RMA on the motherboard and go from there. Seems you just had crap luck and have a dead component somewhere in the mix, it can happen.

Seems likely it could be the PSU, that "GameMax" unit is placed in the D Tier on the PSU Tier List. I'd consider swapping it out regardless of if it's the root of your issues because you're not running a 'cheap' system. I'd recommend a Corsair RMx (2018) they're usually pretty easy to find, are highly rated (One of the best in A Tier) and aren't too terribly expensive although it's not the best time to be PSU shopping... Otherwise try to get a B+ unit that's highlighted gold! Anecdotally, I had Kernel Power 41 errors with my old PSU which was a high end Seasonic Platinum unit (7 years old and was replaced under warranty!) Swapped it out with an EVGA unit and it was resolved, might be just as simple for you.

At first I was inclined to say it's overclocking related (although that is certainly exacerbating it) but it seems like the root may just be AMD drivers having troubles with black screens which has been an on-going issue for the last ~6 months at least. They've addressed them across several driver updates now updates now. (example) Seems it's still an on-going issue. ExtremeTech - AMD is Investigating Black Screen Driver Issues on Radeon Cards (Feb 2020) PCGamer - AMD wants to hear from Radeon owners who are having black screen issues (March 2020) That said make sure you're on the latest AMD Drivers. Temperatures are fine so don't worry about that. I'd try resetting to optimized defaults in the BIOS and try again. Don't play with RAM/DOCP or anything else just leave it at stock everything and try. I don't think it's a PSU issue since you've got a lot of headroom with 620W, sure it's a very cheap unit; but it should be able to handle a small power limit bump and PSU issues usually manifest in different ways than what you're experiencing; but don't completely rule it out, you can't know for sure unless you try another (better) PSU. If nothing else works I'd just leave the power limit as is, and try again when they release another driver update to see if it works then. I don't have experience overclocking AMD cards so might be something I'm overlooking there so maybe somebody else can chime in on that. (Also wrong sub-forum, post under 'Troubleshooting' in the future for this kind of topic. This thread will moved there once a mod notices.)

Whenever I encounter problems like this where you throw everything you can think of at it to no avail I just assume it's windows crippling itself as usual, nuke it and reinstall. A good way to check if it's a program or service running that is causing this try booting in safe mode and looking for the issues you are seeing (lagging/stutter/CPU Fan ramping up and down). If you don't see it occur in a reasonable time frame where you normally would then it's likely something installed and/or running in the background causing it. Narrowing it down is tedious and difficult, you can start manually shutting down services and waiting to see if the symptoms disappear. Another interesting option, if you can create a bootable linux thumbdrive, and just manually boot from that through the BIOS; play around for a bit and see if you can replicate the issue there. If you can't then that points again towards some sort of software/background service causing problems.

Never heard of this one before nor have I experienced it personally. I've been running an RTX 2070 since December 2018 and have experienced no issues whatsoever with drivers or software in general. Wherever/whoever you heard that from is full of bologna.

@keysbeast13 please don't go advising people when you clearly have no clue what you're talking about... XLR is the best option, clear and simple. It gives you many options for future upgrades and allows you to pair it with external equipment that can clean up your audio properly. No USB microphone will be able to compete with a decent XLR setup. Furthermore, USB microphones generally rely on software for control which can be hit or miss, having an dedicated audio interface keeps things simple and can help eliminate a lot of potential audio problems that can stem from software issues. It's not some magic bullet, you still need to know what you're doing, but you'll have a more reliable set-up for sure. That said it's certainly a higher up front cost for an XLR setup but if you plan to use it extensively then it's a worthwhile investment. If you're just taking a shot at streaming part-time and aren't sure if you'll stick with it then you might just want to grab a decently rated microphone and go from there. Edit: Here's a good article on Microphone Basics that should help you understand what you'd need and how things work together. Should help in deciding what you choose.

Agree on all points, was just my stab at it that I took 5 minutes to toss together. It was a decent jumping off point and that's about it; with those optimizations you suggested things are looking a lot better! But yep tl;dr certainly best off waiting.

Nothing exists as far as I know that has search parameters you can modify to narrow down your search for TVs, like PCPartPicker but my suggestion is look for TVs in your price range and look them up on RTings, they'll have all the info on them and extremely thorough reviews. If they're not on RTings they're either quite new so they haven't had time to review them yet, or probably not worth your time at least in my experience using this method. Also if you're planning to buy a 4K TV soon Vizio will likely be unveiling their new 2020 models as soon as June 30th at least from what information is available. Could be Q4 they release though as I'm sure production has been interrupted due to coronavirus.

Assuming you're in the USA as you have not stated otherwise, also I opted to not include a monitor because it is very likely that if you look at your local classified ads you'll find either dirt cheap or free older displays that you can use which would free up a good chunk of budget for the system itself. Here is my stab at this budget, I'm a little over and if it's really not possible to squeeze the extra $50 in then you can buy a crappier case, or even look for used locally. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor $87.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $89.99 @ Newegg Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory $81.99 @ Newegg Storage Corsair MP510 480 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $79.98 @ Amazon Video Card EVGA GeForce GTX 1650 4 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card $176.99 @ Amazon Case Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case $46.98 @ Newegg Power Supply Corsair CXM 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $94.99 @ Best Buy Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $658.91 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-11 02:03 EDT-0400 Just a few notes: Opted for the Corsair MP510 because it's 10$ more than the WD Blue non-nvme drive of the same capacity so you may as well get the better performing/more reliable one. The Corsair CXM PSU I chose based on the PSU Tier list. Tried to get the best possible while staying relatively cheap. Although I think you can do better seeing as we're experiencing PSU shortages at the moment. GPU I chose EVGA due to their very good support and reliability, went with their XC Gaming model for the extra cooling seeing as the case is going to be lacking on it's own. Last and most importantly is that B450 board probably needs a BIOS update to work with that Ryzen chip, as noted at the bottom of pcpartpicker page. That's the only wrench in the works, if you buy it from a local computer shop you can probably convince them them to help you out by updating the BIOS for you otherwise you'll need to figure that out some other way to get around that. Either way it's a good jumping off point if nothing else! Cheers!

If it were a reputable brand and model of power supply I would say you'd be fine. However, it's definitely a questionable unit so I'd certainly upgrade it as well. Best case it runs fine and you don't have any noticeable problems. Worst case the PSU kills several components as it tries it's best to handle the load maybe giving off some magic smoke in the process. Take a look at the up to date PSU Tier List here on the forum. Try to get a 550w to 600w B tier unit if possible, and if you plan to carry the PSU over to a new system when you next upgrade try to get a B+ Tier unit. Also highly recommend EVGA for the 1650 Super, their support is awesome if you ever need it.

Welcome to the forums! Just a note since you are new it's generally not recommended to 'necro' (revive) a thread as old as this one. Always make new posts so your topic actually has a chance to be seen by others. If you're thinking of necroing an old thread simply include a link to it in a new post so people can see you've put the effort into searching and what you found; so that we're all on the same page. That aside, I honestly don't have any good news for you. You've tried everything I could have recommended. It could certainly be a faulty/misreporting sensor but you can't know for sure unless you get your own thermal probe under the IHS of the chip (or wherever the original probe is located). That's tedious and probably won't be very enlightening. Only option left is get on with Acer support and try to find somebody who understands the technical aspect to the degree you do and explain the situation. Best outcome is you're under warranty still and they repair or replace it. However, this is unlikely and considering the world is basically shut down at the moment you will probably be waiting a long time just to talk to them. I know how it feels to save up for something that long and have it fail, buyer's remorse sucks. Your best option is just run it into the ground and get the most out of it, you've done what you can. The only true resolution to this problem is to upgrade when you can to something reliable and more easily user serviceable. As most on the forum would, I'd recommend a desktop if possible and they can be built quite cheap there is a lot of information on this forum and the internet on how to do this efficiently. On the flip side if you require a laptop they're only getting better and cheaper especially with AMD really pushing the limits of laptop processing power.

Seems nobody has mentioned it thus far but Linus already addressed the #HireMadison thing blowing up on FP and then YouTube. I'm sure he'll address it again tomorrow on WAN show but in case anybody can't wait he talked about it on Awesome Hardware on Tuesday. (Timestamped 34:17 or so) TL;DW He can't discuss HR related things including the hiring process so you won't hear anything about it from them directly. If you want to watch for news on whether she was hired check for her portrait to appear on the staff section of their site.

Damn, first PIA, now Honey. Seems likely LTT is going to be acquiring some new sponsors soon LOL.