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[Solved] Persistent VGA Light - Not POSTing

[Solution]

 

Adding in case someone else is Googling for solutions.

 

It would appear the motherboard must have been shorting to the case. When isolated from the case, it works with all the original components.

 

Hi all,

 

I am chasing down an issue on my son's PC. This issue has been intermittent since building (seriously was rare so he didn't want to do troubleshooting / RMAs) which has become persistent since blowing out the PC with an air compressor. When the issue was intermittent, the PC performed perfectly with no issues other than rarely returning a VGA error and not booting on the first try - usually solved with a reboot. When blowing the PC out I made sure to do all the usual stuff - prevent fans spinning from the air, not getting too close with the air nozzle; I did my own PC the same day in the same manner with no issues. I honestly wondered if the motherboard had micro-cracks in the solder or something that I opened when moving the PC, but troubleshooting demonstrates the motherboard is not the issue.

 

I am hoping that someone might have an out of pocket idea - because at this stage I am honestly a little lost. The only component I haven't isolated in some way is the CPU but I am struggling to reconcile that the CPU could be causing a VGA detection error.

 

The issue:

The VGA light on the motherboard illuminates and the speaker plays one long beep, followed by three short beeps - indicating VGA not detected. This prevents the PC from POSTing.

 

Troubleshooting I have performed:

Swapped PCIe slots - No change.

Swapped GPUs - His GPU worked in my PC, my GPU did not work in his PC.

Cleared CMOS via pins and removing battery - No change.

Tried RAM in various slots - No change.

Tried removing all drives (2x M.2 NVMe) - No change.

Tried booting without anything plugged into PC (e.g. no mouse, keyboard, screen, etc.) - No change.

Tried another motherboard (which included new RAM) - Temporary improvement, in that the issue became intermittent.

Checked voltage to 8-pin connector on GPU - 12v in all the right pins.

 

Troubleshooting I have NOT performed:

Try another CPU - Don't have another LGA1700 to test with.

Try another PSU - My PC does have the same PSU, which I can try if suggested, but I am reasonably confident that it is not the PSU.

 

The system specs:

Intel Core i7 12700F

ASUS TUF Gaming Z690-PLUS Wi-Fi D4

ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 TUF Gaming OC LHR 12GB

Team T-Force Delta RGB 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz CL16 DDR4

2 x Crucial P2 M.2 NVMe

ASUS ROG Strix Gold 750W

ASUS ROG Strix LC II 360 ARGB AIO Cooler

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25 minutes ago, Cal383 said:

Try another PSU - My PC does have the same PSU, which I can try if suggested, but I am reasonably confident that it is not the PSU.

Since you've tried pretty much everything else, the PSU is one of your last ports of call.

 

I've been building PCs for almost 30 years and can't stress enough how not to overlook the PSU or PSU power cables as a possible source of issues.

 

One of my most recent PC related headaches boiled down to the PSU. It was only when I removed the PSU and tried to unplug the PCIe power cable where I discovered the cable was melted to the PSU and wouldn't budge.

 

In my case, the PC would bot but as soon as any load hit the GPU and it wanted to draw any additional power over and above what the PCIe slot was providing, it was instant death!

 

 

Living Room PC - Lian-Li O11 XL Evo - MSI X870 Tomahawk Mobo - AMD 9800X3D - 32GB DDR5 Ram - RTX 4090 - 2TB Samsung 990Pro NVMe - Antec 1200w PSU - Dual Custom Loop Cooling - GPU cooled with EK Quantum Surface S240 + EK Quantum Surface P360M X-Flow Rads - CPU cooled with EK Quantum Surface X360M Rad

 

Bedroom PC - Hyte Y60 - Intel Core i5 13600k - MSI Pro-A Wifi Z790 Mobo DDR5 - 32GB Ram - RTX 5070ti - 1TB Samsung 990Pro NVMe - Corsair HX1200i PSU - CPU + GPU cooled with Hyte Y60 Corner Distro Plate - EK Coolstream S120 + EK Quantum Surface S360 + EK Quantum Surface X240M

 

Extension PC - Lian Li o11 Dynamic - Intel Core i9 9900k - MSI Meg Ace Z390 Mobo - 16GB Ram - RTX 3080ti - 256GB Samsung NVMe - Corsair AX850 PSU - CPU + GPU cooled with dual EKWB 360 Rads + G1 side EKWB distro plate.

 

Office PC - Thermaltake Tower 100 - Intel Core i7 8086K - Gbyte Z390 I Aorus Pro Wifi Mobo - 16GB Ram - iGPU - 256GB Samsung NVMe - EVGA B5 850W PSU - CPU cooled with dual EK Quantum Surface P120M Rads + Barrow 3-in-1 Block, Res & Pump.

 

Spare - Corsair 250D - Intel Core i7 8700k - Gbyte Z390 I Aorus Pro Wifi Mobo - 16GB Ram - GTX 980ti - 256GB Samsung NVMe - BeQuiet P11 750 PSU - CPU cooled with EK Coolstream S240 + S120 Rads + EK Pump / Res Combo

 

Annex - Corsair 280X - Intel Core i7 4790k - Asrock H97M ITX Mobo  - 16GB Ram - EVGA GTX 1080ti - Corsair SFXL600 PSU - CPU + GPU cooled with triple EK Coolstream S240s + EK Pump / Res Combo

 

NAS PC - Fractal Node 804 - Intel Core i7 3770k - Asus P8Z77-M Mobo - 16GB Ram - MSI GTX 1660 Ventus - Corsair AX850 PSU - Unraid 21TB Storage Server

 

Living Room AV Setup 5.1.4 - Nvidia Shield - Yamaha RX-A6A - 2 x B&W CM9s2 - 2 x Monitor Audio FX Silvers - 4 x B&W CCM665s - B&W CMCs2 - SVS SB13 Ultra - LG OLED65C1

 

Extension AV Setup - Sonos ARC + Sub (Gen 3) - LG OLED65C6V + Sonos Amp - 5 x Monitor Audio C265s

 

Bedroom AV Setup - Yamaha WXC-50 - 2 x B&W CM1s - Rel Quake - LG OLED42C2.

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On 12/17/2024 at 10:54 PM, ChrisLoudon said:

Since you've tried pretty much everything else, the PSU is one of your last ports of call.

 

I've been building PCs for almost 30 years and can't stress enough how not to overlook the PSU or PSU power cables as a possible source of issues.

 

One of my most recent PC related headaches boiled down to the PSU. It was only when I removed the PSU and tried to unplug the PCIe power cable where I discovered the cable was melted to the PSU and wouldn't budge.

 

In my case, the PC would bot but as soon as any load hit the GPU and it wanted to draw any additional power over and above what the PCIe slot was providing, it was instant death!

 

 

Thanks for your response Chris, I appreciate the input and I did end up swapping the PSU just to be sure on your advice.

 

It ended up that the motherboard was shorting to the case - everything works with all the original components when I isolate the motherboard from the case.

 

Super weird.

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