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Upgrading cpu (keeping 3060 GPU)

Go to solution Solved by 191x7,

You can do better for about 310-350 GBP.

 

Ryzen 5700X3D to 5800X3D 230-250 GBP

2X8GB DDR4 3200 Corsair LPX 40 GBP

Peerless Assassin 120 SE 40 GBP.

Budget (including currency): ~£600

Country: UK

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: CS2, fushion 360, Fornite, PUBG, GTA, COD, 

Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):

currently i have https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/N3KdkX (The SSD has been replaced with a 1TB SSD)
The cpu has recently died and i want to upgrade. The criteria are to upgrade the cpu and motherboard (i want wifi/bluetooth, and at least 4 sata ports). I also want it to be as quiet as possible so i think i need a new cpu cooler (currently using the stock amd one), furthermore, i want 32 GB ram (no idea what all the numbers DDR4/5 mean). I want a moderately overkill cpu for the gpu as i want to be able to upgrade the gpu in the future and not be bottle-necked, i also mainly play CS which is cpu intensive, i don't mind using intel or AMD.

Here is my proposed upgrade https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/KCMct7, i really don't know if any of the parts are good or not, it was simply a 5 minute job where i realized how out of touch with the market i am.

 

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You can do better for about 310-350 GBP.

 

Ryzen 5700X3D to 5800X3D 230-250 GBP

2X8GB DDR4 3200 Corsair LPX 40 GBP

Peerless Assassin 120 SE 40 GBP.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Well, for AM5, you could achieve 7600 build:

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (£182.99 @ AWD-IT)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (£39.00 @ Computer Orbit)
Motherboard: MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard  (£149.00 @ Computer Orbit)
Memory: *TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  (£107.02 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (£109.98 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £587.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-07 16:17 BST+0100

Note: Users receive notifications after Mentions & Quotes. 

Feel free to ask any questions regarding my comments/build lists. I know a lot about PCs but not everything.

PC:

Ryzen 5 5600 |16GB DDR4 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1080 ti

PCs I used before:

Pentium G4500 | 4GB/8GB DDR4 2133Mhz | H110 | GTX 1050

Ryzen 3 1200 3,5Ghz / OC:4Ghz | 8GB DDR4 2133Mhz / 16GB 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1050

Ryzen 3 1200 3,5Ghz | 16GB 3200Mhz | B450 | GTX 1080 ti

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39 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

You can do better for about 310-350 GBP.

 

Ryzen 5700X3D to 5800X3D 230-250 GBP

2X8GB DDR4 3200 Corsair LPX 40 GBP

Peerless Assassin 120 SE 40 GBP.

Pretty much this

what was the point of going with AM4 3 generations in if not to upgrade for the sake of longevity on the platform 

5800x3d, big ass air cooler, more ram, good to go.

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5 hours ago, 191x7 said:

You can do better for about 310-350 GBP.

 

Ryzen 5700X3D to 5800X3D 230-250 GBP

2X8GB DDR4 3200 Corsair LPX 40 GBP

Peerless Assassin 120 SE 40 GBP.

i'm thinking the 5800X3D and Peerless Assassin 120 SE. On pcpartpicker i am getting an warning about motherboard (Gigabyte B450 Gaming X ATX AM4 Motherboard) BIOS. Is this something i should be concerned about and if so what should i do. All the advice about updating bios requires having the pc functional and/or using a bios flash usb port on the motherboard but i can't seem to find how to do that on my board and no ports are labelled with BIOS or flash.

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nope, you will likely need to update the bios, just throw in your old one install the update and youll be fine

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4 minutes ago, BentleyOwen123 said:

nope, you will likely need to update the bios, just throw in your old one install the update and youll be fine

Do you know how to update BIOS on Gigabyte B450 Gaming X ATX AM4 Motherboard when the PC isn't booting

 

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not really no, dont you already have a 3000 series am4 cpu?

 

 

edit: oh wait it died nvm

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34 minutes ago, KP0C said:

Do you know how to update BIOS on Gigabyte B450 Gaming X ATX AM4 Motherboard when the PC isn't booting

 

Didn't you flash one of the newer Bioses before your CPU died?

Also, are you sure the 3600 died on you, have you tried it in a different PC?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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3 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Didn't you flash one of the newer Bioses before your CPU died?

Also, are you sure the 3600 died on you, have you tried it in a different PC?

I haven't tried the CPU in another PC (as i don't have access to one), but my PC did somewhat regularly blue screen randomly which seems to be sign of CPU failure as i have read And i have tried swapping RAM and removing GPU. Would you say this is conclusive evidence of a broken CPU.
Also because i flashed to newer bioses before should it all be good (is there not specific bioses for specific CPUs)

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yea, as long as you did it after ryzen 5000 was released so yourr gunna be fine

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1 minute ago, BentleyOwen123 said:

yea, as long as you did it after ryzen 5000 was released so yourr gunna be fine

thanks, we should be good then

 

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9 minutes ago, KP0C said:

I haven't tried the CPU in another PC (as i don't have access to one), but my PC did somewhat regularly blue screen randomly which seems to be sign of CPU failure as i have read And i have tried swapping RAM and removing GPU. Would you say this is conclusive evidence of a broken CPU.
Also because i flashed to newer bioses before should it all be good (is there not specific bioses for specific CPUs)

Blue Screens do not mean CPU issues, they can be caused by many different things. Did your CPU completely stop working but the board works with a different CPU?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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4 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Blue Screens do not mean CPU issues, they can be caused by many different things. Did your CPU completely stop working but the board works with a different CPU?

i don't have another CPU to test in it, is there any other ways i can diagnose the problem

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2 minutes ago, KP0C said:

i don't have another CPU to test in it, is there any other ways i can diagnose the problem

Without having parts you can't properly test. Maybe take the PC to a competent repair shop?

 

What are the exact issues you are experiencing?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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2 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Without having parts you can't properly test. Maybe take the PC to a competent repair shop?

 

What are the exact issues you are experiencing?

I was playing PUBG, i was getting around 70 fps. It isn't by any means the first time my computer has been used to play PUBG on the settings i was playing. Then all of a sudden, the fans on the PC started getting very loud, i'm not sure which fans where the ones increasing. I immediately shut down the PC as i thought it may be overheating and didn't want to fry it. I waited a while 10-15 minutes before trying to turn it on and it's not turning back on. The lights on the fans and the gpu turn on (all the lights) and the fans start spinning as they usually do but there is no output to the screen. I have tried swapping the display port to the gpu to a hdmi to the motherboard (as i though it may be a problem with the GPU) and nothing changed.

 

None of the diagnosis lights on my motherboard are coming on.

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1 hour ago, KP0C said:

I was playing PUBG, i was getting around 70 fps. It isn't by any means the first time my computer has been used to play PUBG on the settings i was playing. Then all of a sudden, the fans on the PC started getting very loud, i'm not sure which fans where the ones increasing. I immediately shut down the PC as i thought it may be overheating and didn't want to fry it. I waited a while 10-15 minutes before trying to turn it on and it's not turning back on. The lights on the fans and the gpu turn on (all the lights) and the fans start spinning as they usually do but there is no output to the screen. I have tried swapping the display port to the gpu to a hdmi to the motherboard (as i though it may be a problem with the GPU) and nothing changed.

 

None of the diagnosis lights on my motherboard are coming on.

I have also already tried replacing the ssd boot drive and RAM

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5 hours ago, KP0C said:

I was playing PUBG, i was getting around 70 fps. It isn't by any means the first time my computer has been used to play PUBG on the settings i was playing. Then all of a sudden, the fans on the PC started getting very loud, i'm not sure which fans where the ones increasing. I immediately shut down the PC as i thought it may be overheating and didn't want to fry it. I waited a while 10-15 minutes before trying to turn it on and it's not turning back on. The lights on the fans and the gpu turn on (all the lights) and the fans start spinning as they usually do but there is no output to the screen. I have tried swapping the display port to the gpu to a hdmi to the motherboard (as i though it may be a problem with the GPU) and nothing changed.

 

None of the diagnosis lights on my motherboard are coming on.

First, clear the CMOS by unplugging the PC from power, removing the CR2032 battery, pressing the case power button, waiting a couple minutes, putting the battery back in, plugging the power and trying to turn on the PC.

 

Connecting the monitor to the motherboard can't produce a picture because the Ryzen 3600 does not have an integrated graphics chip. Only the CPU-s ending with a G have integrated graphics on AM4, for example the 5600G or 2400G.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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On 4/8/2024 at 4:46 AM, 191x7 said:

First, clear the CMOS by unplugging the PC from power, removing the CR2032 battery, pressing the case power button, waiting a couple minutes, putting the battery back in, plugging the power and trying to turn on the PC.

 

Connecting the monitor to the motherboard can't produce a picture because the Ryzen 3600 does not have an integrated graphics chip. Only the CPU-s ending with a G have integrated graphics on AM4, for example the 5600G or 2400G.

i have tried CMOS and a different cpu still nothing

 

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2 hours ago, KP0C said:

i have tried CMOS and a different cpu still nothing

 

If the system doesn't boot with a different CPU, then it's not the CPU.

 

You need to try with a different GPU, ask a friend or someone, it can be old or weak - it's just needed to see if you get a picture or the same issues persist.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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27 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

If the system doesn't boot with a different CPU, then it's not the CPU.

 

You need to try with a different GPU, ask a friend or someone, it can be old or weak - it's just needed to see if you get a picture or the same issues persist.

The light which illuminates the power buttons seems to also be flickering, not sure what this could indicate. (the wire is secured properly)

 

 

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1 hour ago, KP0C said:

The light which illuminates the power buttons seems to also be flickering, not sure what this could indicate. (the wire is secured properly)

 

 

Could be the motherboard, the GPU, the PSU, ...

 

If you can't try another GPU, at least try your GPU in some other system. If it works in another system, you'll know it's not the culprit, but if it doesn't work - you'll be a step closer to solving the mystery. 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
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  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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19 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Could be the motherboard, the GPU, the PSU, ...

 

If you can't try another GPU, at least try your GPU in some other system. If it works in another system, you'll know it's not the culprit, but if it doesn't work - you'll be a step closer to solving the mystery. 

Just tried a 1060 in it and it worked. My pc has two PCie (PCie 2 and 3). Is there any chance that the problem is to do with some software on the GPU and if i plug both in i can try reflashing the 3060 or is it dangerous to plug both in at once, it should be well within the range of my 650 Watt PSU.

 

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4 hours ago, KP0C said:

Just tried a 1060 in it and it worked. My pc has two PCie (PCie 2 and 3). Is there any chance that the problem is to do with some software on the GPU and if i plug both in i can try reflashing the 3060 or is it dangerous to plug both in at once, it should be well within the range of my 650 Watt PSU.

 

Here you go, it's not your CPU after all. 

 

Yes, you can try running both cards, the system should boot. After the boot, check if the Device Manager sees both cards and if you can install drivers for both. 

 

Also, try using a different connection type (cable) on the 3060, maybe one of the display outputs stopped working. 

 

Best would still be to try the 3060 in some other system.

 

Edit: to make sure, it's not a software issue, it's a hardware issue.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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10 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Here you go, it's not your CPU after all. 

 

Yes, you can try running both cards, the system should boot. After the boot, check if the Device Manager sees both cards and if you can install drivers for both. 

 

Also, try using a different connection type (cable) on the 3060, maybe one of the display outputs stopped working. 

 

Best would still be to try the 3060 in some other system.

 

Edit: to make sure, it's not a software issue, it's a hardware issue.

i can't see the 3060 in the device manager and i have tried every cable out of the 3060

 

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