Logitech Double Click Fixes

OhioYJ · April 15, 2021

Ok, so I have two G502s, and one G500. I like the mouse, and these same switches are used in many mice, so I not convinced just buying a new mouse would really solve the issue. I figure repair is the best option.

I eventually came across this hour long video: Failing switch problem: Omron vs the modern mouse circuit. The TLDR explanation the switches being used are rated so high the wetting current is not being met and that is causing a problems, on top of a few other problems.

So I ordered a few switches to have on hand / test with:

D2F-F (Omron, Japan Made version, from my research this is almost identical to what is in my mouse now?)

D2F-01FL30 (Omron, Japan Made version, 100 mA rating, this is low current, similar to the switch recommended in the video above. I had to order with a lever as the non-lever version was not available at this time. Lever can be easily removed)

DG13-B1AA (This one can be obtained as a Cherry switch, but I could not get the "Cherry" brand through Mouser. This one has the same current rating as the D2F-F, but requires twice the amount of force to actuate)

To take apart the mouse, you will have to remove the "skates", these are available new on Amazon (Hyperslides and Hotline Games are the two brands I used). So far I've only repaired one mouse, and used the Hyperslides, their "skates" fit and worked nice.

My G502 apart:

So what I've learned so far. When pressing the switches in my G502 ( D2FC-F-K(C) ), the left one didn't even click anymore. It is a noticeably different in feel. So I don't believe this is just a corrosion issue on the switch.

What do you guys think? Are just switching to the Japanese switches enough? Should I have ordered something else? Is this just a case of they don't make things like they used to? I've repair one of my G502 mice and it's working fine again. I've still got my backup G500, and my son's G502 left. So should I put the same things in those?

TheChromaBristlenose · April 15, 2021

D2FC-series switches are completely different internally to any of the Japanese Omrons, they're a cost-saving design essentially. Switching to D2F should solve your issue - ideally the low current variant (D2F-01F), but even the standard version is less sensitive to low current compared to D2FC due to better contact design (+ gold plating).

OhioYJ · April 16, 2021

2 hours ago, TheChromaBristlenose said:

D2FC-series switches are completely different internally to any of the Japanese Omrons, they're a cost-saving design essentially. Switching to D2F should solve your issue - ideally the low current variant (D2F-01F), but even the standard version is less sensitive to low current compared to D2FC due to better contact design (+ gold plating).

Well that's good to know. Since I already have both at this point, perhaps I'll replace the next one with the -01 version and see if one has a longer life compared to the other.