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so i installed an NVMESSD (WD Black SN850X) in my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max which does not support PCIE Gen4, i have installed the SSD correctly, my bios is up to date, the ssd is working but maybe after a day or two when i turn the pc on it does not show neither on windows nor on Bios, if i open and reattach the ssd it shows up again, i have checked with crystal disk info and even bios's built in m.2 checker, both shows that the SSD is new and no errors there, the other day i did not even have to open up the ssd and its back to showing, from bios i just changed storage to raid and turned it on to a blue screen and after reversing it to as it was the SSD was back and now my other sata storage devices were not showing in the bios, one of which contained window, but getting out of bios the pc booted up in windows and was showing all the devices including problematic SSD, do u think it is the issue of the motherboard? the SSD itself? or Bios?
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Summary Western Digital has announced plans to split the company in two by spinning off their flash division into a separate company and keep the hard drive disk (HDD) division. This is recent in news after talks between Western Digital and Japanese memory maker Kioxia to merge have scrapped plans. This is expected to occur over the second half of 2024. This was a unanimous decision by the board of directors. Quotes My thoughts This is pretty interesting to see since Western Digital bought SanDisk back in 2016 and are now separating the two divisions once again. I hope there is no change in quality or where the future lays for Western Digital in a tight market for hard drives between Seagate and Toshiba being big players here. Sources https://www.investors.com/news/technology/wdc-stock-western-digital-jumps-on-plan-to-split-business/ https://www.theverge.com/2023/10/30/23938334/western-digital-separating-hard-drive-flash-business
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Hello all I'm already a happy owner for the - a bit older - Western Digital Red PRO 6TB (WD6002FFWX), and I'm soon buying a HDD enclosure with Raid support. And what I want is to make a Raid 1 setup with my current Red PRO 6TB. And no, I'm not interested in other Raid configurations than Raid 1 for the moment. I have never used Raid before and as my first Raid setup, I just want it to be simple. But my Red PRO 6TB, the WD6002FFWX, can't be bought anymore so what Red PRO 6TB should I get now? Seems like WD made a couple of 6TB models and I'm not sure which one to go for. Does it even matter which one? If not, maybe I can go for a Seagate instead? I hope some Raid guru here can tell me what is important and what is not.
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I'm planning to get a new hard drive to replace my 160GB WD Blue. Should I get a Seagate Barracuda or WD Blue? Both are 1TB in size. Western Digital https://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-1TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=382KTUT9IQQNX&dchild=1&keywords=western+digital+blue&qid=1613735205&sprefix=western+digital+b%2Caps%2C412&sr=8-1 Seagate https://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate-barracuda-1tb-internal-sata-hard-drive-for-desktops/6164930.p?skuId=6164930
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Hey all, I'll try to keep it short. My current rig (workstation/gaming hybrid) uses a 1TB WD_BLACK SN750 as its boot drive/applications and a 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD for media, docs, and games. I just picked up 1TB Samsung 980 Pro from Best Buy now I am debating on how I should configure my Storage. I am go to remove the games form my HDD and put them on one of the SSD's, but idk which SSD to use as my boot/productivity drive and which to use as my dedicated games library. I know the Gen4 980 Pro is far superior them my Gen3 SN750, but will my games really benefit THAT must from the Samsung, or would I be better using it as my main drive for boot and workloads and using the SN750 for game storage?
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Hello, I was kindly offered a WD My Book 28TB DUO. The 2 drives come in raid 0, 512 sector size, NTFS GPT by default. Don't understand much about storage but as far as I know it would be better to have it with 4096 sector size correct? However, if I try to format it as NTFS it goes from 8192 bytes to to 2048K only. The option for 4096K only shows up under exFAT. Alternatively I've read I can use WD program to format as compatible mode for MBR 4096K. Basically, usage will be just having it plugged to my pc as mass storage. Somewhat often I might plug it to TV. Can someone enlighten me on the best option and how to format the drive as such? Thank you in advance for all the help. Regards,
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Hi all! I have a pretty old Western Digital 2TB HDD (WD20EARX). I bought it in 2011, so it's now 11 years old. Hard Disk Sentinel shows its health is somehow still at 100%, despite it being used so much, for so long. For comparison, my main system SSD, which has a power on time of 16x less than the HDD, already has health of 86%. Screenshot here. Can the 100% health reading for the old HDD really be trusted? This thing is well into the age category of "generally the time HDDs fail". Should I just go ahead and ignore the reading and replace the thing before I lose data? I don't wanna get a replacement unnecessarily. Thanks in advance for any advice provided. :)
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Can anyone tell me which HDD is more reliable among these. There won't be any OS in it. Just some games, videos and docs. Seagate Barracuda (ST1000DM010) 7200RPM 1TB ($44) Western Digital Blue (WD10EZEX) 7200RPM 1TB ($42) Western Digital Blue (WD20EZRZ) 5400RPM 2TB ($61) Toshiba P300 (HDWD110UZSVA) 7200RPM 1TB ($43) Toshiba P300 (HDWD120UZSVA) 7200RPM 2TB ($66)
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I received a brand new WD Black 2TB for Christmas and it's making a very apparent grinding or whining noise when I turn the computer off. It hasn't had any data put on it and has only been turned on about a dozen times. I was wondering if anyone had dealt with this issue before and how you fixed it, or if the sound is normal. I've looked up other threads regarding this issue and so far I've come to the conclusion that this is not supposed to happen and an RMA is the only solution, but I don't know anything about hard drives. I've already contacted WD about this issue and they've given me some things to try but none of them worked. I've tried replacing the cables, moving the drive, and isolating it to make sure the drive is causing the noise. Here's a short video of the sound: https://imgur.com/a/RQaNlJI (I apologize for the horrific cable management)
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Hii guys.. I just put a Western Digital Black SN750 in my gaming laptop (Hp Omen 15 en0013ax) as a working drive when I'm playing games,editing photos and video, the problem is all the reviews on the online shop telling the read and write speed reach 3000+ MB/s, and I'm not getting the speeds like others. It's still the same speed as my old ssd (which around 1600-1800 Mb/s). Am I doing something wrong? Drive is installed in the NVMe slot of my laptop. It should be getting read speeds of around 3000+ MB/s but CrystalDiskMark (version 7-8) is only indicating around 1700-1864 MB/s, not event reach 2k+ MB/s, Is it because WD Black I got defect or Its because my laptop? below is comparison disk C is old SSD and disk D is new Kindly help with this problem, Thanks in advanced
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So, I have an HP Spectre 15 (2019) with a 500gb Intel Optane SSD in it right now (in the only M.2 slot, so it's my everything drive). I want to upgrade the storage to 1tb and I have a WD Black Sn750 SSD that I got to use. I'm looking into cloning my og drive (I'm going to get an external SSD enclosure to put the new one in for the process and for my old drive to act as extra storage) so I don't need to reinstall everything windows/program wise, but when I was at Best Buy the guy I talked to said they cant clone from Intel Optane. From what I found about regular cloning it seems pretty straightforward so is there anything else special I need to do to make it successful with Optane? Any other general help would be much appreciated, this is my first time trying something like this! ($200 for someone else to do it felt steep lol) Thanks!!
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I can't figure out the difference between these two drives. they currently are listed with the same price on amazon $189.99USD (09/07/2021) if any one knows the spec that would be obvious to make the choice on which to lean to im all ears. semi-tempted to go with Western Digital because the majority of my drives are from them. https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-PCIe-Internal-Gaming-MZ-V8P1T0B/dp/B08GLX7TNT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3R0ZRC9HUEQXU&dchild=1&keywords=1tb%2Bpcie%2Bnvme%2Bgen4&qid=1631051189&s=electronics&sprefix=1TB%2BPCIe%2BNVMe%2Celectronics%2C241&sr=1-3&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/WD_Black-SN850-Internal-Gaming-Solid/dp/B08KFS6THF/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3R0ZRC9HUEQXU&dchild=1&keywords=1tb%2Bpcie%2Bnvme%2Bgen4&qid=1631051189&s=electronics&sprefix=1TB%2BPCIe%2BNVMe%2Celectronics%2C241&sr=1-4&th=1
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In China, Western Digital's SN550 1TB, produced in July with firmware number 23XXXXWD, reduced the out-of-cache writes from 800MB/s to 400MB/s with no announcement notice and no change in selling price, which could not be detected without testing. After testing, past products with firmware version 21XXXXWD, the firmware could not be updated to 23XXXXWD, most likely Western Digital made changes at the hardware level. Western Digital has also secretly switched Red NAS Hard Drives from CMR to SMR before, so can you test to see if there are any such products outside of China? If so, you can prevent Western Digital from harming consumers.
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Hello guy ! Just bought a new WD My Passport but i find it awfull in this blue ... I want to paint it in this color or a similar one. How should i procede ? Should i sand it like a plastic model and then paint or paint directly onto the blue layer ? Does the type of paint I use matter ? Thanks and have a nice day ^^ !
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dear forumers, first of all let me excuse with you if other (or many other) topics have already been posted on the same subject. I haven't found anything among the pinned posts so I thought I'd write something to explain my specific situation; which is very simple btw and will require hopefully no effort to be addressed from you experts. As you can see in my signature, I currently have a 500Gb ssd, which is filling up really fast, since I produce approximately 1Gb/day of video clips. I have bought an additional 4 Tb Wd CMR HDD (WD40EFRX) which I have mounted but not initialized yet and that I plan to use as a backup unit. along with the video clips: I need to backup other types of files as well: mostly documents, itunes folders and pictures of course. (I still have GDrives and Dropbox of course). Additionally I would like to produce periodical backups of windows 10 as well, those which are called system images if I understand correctly. Now, first things first: most of you are already typing something like: "hey, if that your usage you can't rely on one "small" hdd unit only: you need at least SIX of them with external NAS and ultra mega raid-what-the-heck-yeah" yeah: I simply don't have the money now. So that's what I have and that's what I need to deal with. So, if anyone wants to help me, help me with this. Now, the point is: I would like to have automatic backups. I have noticed -correct me if I am wrong- that Whatsapp performs some kind of incremental of differential backup, not just a simple full backup: I would like to have someting similar. I have no problem spending some money to buy a license for a designated software who does that, as long as it is effective and really autonomous. Then, in the end: I would like to understand which configuration would be better for my case: is it better to create multiple partitions or just one is good (like I hope)? so, to sum it up: - automatic periodic backups of specified folders; - manual backups of windows image from time to time; - all in one isk for the moment (I could buy an additional one in the future). is there a software for this? thanks
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I as a Linux user like to distrohop. My worry is that my SSD will die. I use WD 240GB M.2 SSD. I have reformatted it about 10-15 times
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It only sounds like this when I emulate games in rpcs3, which is stored on the HDD and sometimes it also happens during casual use for very brief seconds. My GPU has coil whine, but the noise in this case seems different from that one and seems to come from the HDD. It's making me go nuts. Is this normal? I checked for bad sectors and errors in HD Tune and CrystalDiskInfo and the HDD seems to be fine. 1193502371_Img3878.m4v
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So my current situation is that i am running out of storage on my WD Black 4TB, Ive noticed best buy has WD Reds on sale, they are Currently Advertising a WD Red 8TB 7200RPM Drive For $194,99. Would this drive be fine to run as a Games Drive, or what are the differences between this WD red and a WD Black. thanks for the info Link to the drive: https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/wd-red-plus-8tb-3-5-7200rpm-sata-iii-nas-internal-hard-drive-wdbavv0080hnc-wrsn/15304526
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Sometime ago (too long) WInamp started crashing whenever I tried to save a change in my playlist. Around the same time I noticed Open Office would also crash whenever I tried to open a document with the menu, or use the Save As. i ignored this issue for several months, figuring my Windows install was somehow corrupt, and the issue only applied to some things with a file dialog box. Not all thinks, only a couple, Winamp is old, OpenOffice is cross platform, I figured they were both using some older OS call that was throwing the crash. More recently I had the notion of checking the Event Viewer. I ran Winamp and clicked "Save Playlist" so it would crash and had a look... The device, \Device\Harddisk0\DR0, has a bad block. Now it's not a great thing to see, I couldn't be stuffed reinatalling windows on a different drive when I'm planning on getting a new PC later this year, but: - How does a SSD (1TB Western Digital WDC WDS100T2G0A) have a bad block? - Should I worry? - Can I somehow suppress the error so that crashing programs ignore it? Truth be told I've lived for over a year with happening, and I've not lost a single byte of data. I figure the error is coming form the drives controller for some reason (maybe it has a bad bit of cache RAM?) Any info/advice would be appreciated. Jib
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From the album: Concept Red
A couple of components found for my build, all currently adds up to around £700, opinions and advice welcome! Link: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/nLCgkL -
I used this SSD as a main drive for the last almost 3 years. From the reading of crystal disk info is it good to go, or should I RMA it?
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Hi, I recently got new WD SN750 Gen3 for the OS and Kingston KC3000 for the games. The Kingston is running as expected almost with 6K read and write. But the WD write speed is very slow, tried many things and setup in bios, updated firmwares..etc with no luck. Yes its for OS only but that is very slow, the WD dashboard looks fine 4 lanes working. I have PCI wireless adapter as well in on of the slots, not sure if that may affect speed! I have GB aorus X570 elite 5800x 6800xt Thanks
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The ones I am looking at are. WD Black SN750 SE M.2 PCIe Gen 4 NVMe SSD WD Black SN770 M.2 PCIe Gen 4 NVMe SSD WD Black SN850X M.2 PCIe Gen 4 NVMe SSD My current PC has a WD SN730 NVMe SSD and I would like something with at least slightly better performance.
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One of the SSDs I choose when upgrading older laptops that still use a mechanical HDD is the WD Blue SA510 SATA SSD. In my head I was thinking it's just another WD Blue SATA SSD, a solid mid-range SSD from a reputable known brand manufacturer. But I've started to notice weird performance issues during the initial wave of Windows Updates that come after a Windows clean install. The laptop would kinda stop responding for a few seconds, then be snappy again. I thought it's just the usually dual core processor in the computer at 100% utilization. That was until I decided to open Task Manager while a computer is doing updates when I saw this SSD be pinned at 100% for several seconds then come down. Odd. I don't notice this kind of behavior even on other cheaper SSDs. This laptop only have an Ivy Bridge Intel Core i5-3210M (2-core 4-thread processor from 10 years ago) and it is sometimes bottlenecked by a WD Blue SSD especially from a fresh install like this. So I decided to buy one for myself. I bought a WD Blue SA510 500GB SATA SSD for $43 and benchmarked it to the best of my knowledge and abilities and the results were so surprising that I'm still having doubts if I did my tests right. For comparison, I also tested it against other dram-less SSDs like the PNY CS900 500GB SATA, a Hyundai C2S3T 120G that I bought for $12 just because of the Hyundai brand on the SSD, and the now DRAM-less Fattydove Racing 120GB SSD. I also compared it to DRAM equipped SATA SSDs that I do have which are the Crucial MX500 500GB, and old Crucial M550, and my very first SSD the Kingston V300 240GB "bait-and-switch" edition. I used my personal custom build to do these tests with the SSDs connected directly to the motherboard using SATA 3 without the use of any SATA to USB adapters. AMD Ryzen 7 5800x Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 3200 MHz (8x2 kit) Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe boot drive MSI B550-A PRO Nvidia RTX 3060 Ti Founders Windows 10 Pro 21H2 With CrystalDiskMark sequential read and writes, nothing is crazy bad or anything with the WD Blue SA510. My Crucial MX500 is actually at a disadvantage being half full of data and not formatted clean at all yet it is still a chart topper. At the bottom is my very first SSD, the Kingston V300 "bait-and-switch" edition with the Micron 20mn NAND alongside the DRAM-less PNY CS900. Randoms is where things get a bit interesting. The DRAM-less PNY CS900 that I bought for just $29 is the one performing very poorly when it comes to random writes but is performing quite well in random reads which matters the most, in my opinion. My Kingston V300 "switcharoo" SSD performs the least in random reads but compared to the WD Blue Scorpio spinning rust it replaces, it was still a big upgrade for me back in 2016. I still don't fully understand how to properly interpret ATTO Disk Benchmark results and I basically just copied Anantech's settings: 32 GB file size, Bypass Write Cache, Queue Depth of 4. But something tells me that the very low numbers of the WD Blue SA510 is correlated with the poor performance it's getting when doing that initial wave of Windows Updates after a clean install. The Hyundai C2S3T and Fattydove Racing despite being sub-$20 120GB cheapo SSDs are performing relatively fine. The spreadsheet (limited to SATA SSDs that are still in my possession) ATTO (MB/s) ATTO (IOPS) But wait, there's more! I took it apart to see...a DRAM-less and single NAND flash SSD. I'm pretty sure the WD Blue SATA SSDs are supposed to have a DRAM cache with the WD Green being DRAM-less. DRAM-less is forgivable on their WD Blue NVMe SSDs thanks to Host Memory Buffer (HMB) doing its job, but not so much on a SATA SSD that costs more than other DRAM-less options like the PNY CS900, and (as of December 2022) only $10 cheaper than something with DRAM like the Crucial MX500 and Samsung 870 EVO. SanDisk A101-000125-B0 controller Nothing on the back. SanDisk 0G6744-512G NAND flash (if I read that right) By contrast look at the PNY CS900 with eight NAND flash chips. Still DRAM-less but it is also cheaper, somehow. Phison PS3111-S11-13 single-core, 2-channel controller 4 more NAND chips on the back For fun, here's the Hyundai C2S3T 120 GB SSD The now unfortunately DRAM-less Fattydove Racing 120 GB SSD with who-knows-what NAND flash chips. I'm not a professional drive reviewer but I did try to be as consistent as possible. I am I weirdo who benchmarks pretty much every single storage device I end up owning. This "mini hobby" started when one of my SanDisk Class 10 SD cards is causing my DSLR to stop recording randomly, finding out that its write speed is nowhere near Class 10 and more like Class 6. Testing all my storage devices also help me install the appropriate storage device for the appropriate systems as well as catch bull---- that manufacturers pull. Feel free to comment down below with your thoughts and criticisms.
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