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  • Things Nowak Says
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  • Anthony's Apartment
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  • Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition w/ 300 W power supply?
  • I blogged
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  • SSD and hard drive config?
  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
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  • jmad2011's Blog
  • Child's Play
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  • Kavala Checkpoint
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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
  • My PC Upgrade Blog
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  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
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  • help me remember
  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
  • murz's blog
  • Nvidia GTX 660 ti wanted
  • Sarbartha's Blog
  • The Mechanical Experience
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  • Le boring life of Zach
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  • Slim 24 Pro India
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  • Big Giveaway :D
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  • Big Giveaway :-))))))
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  • my mice issues
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  • Moving to the PC Master Race
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
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  • R4 Build #2
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  • PC Spec help
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
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  • A techy blog
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
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Found 14 results

  1. I have an issue with certain games, like anything that isn't steam like I can't play anything in epic games or Roblox or riot client but if I were to play the same game but on steam it works perfectly fine I've took my pc to best buy and they switched out the GPU, PSU and I think the storages and it had the same issue I've deleted windows on my pc and the same issue happens and I don't know if its my mother board or something but its getting annoying that I can't enjoy games that I like. SPECS 3090 evga ASUS B550 gaming wifi II motherboard Ryzen 7 5800x CPU 1000W PSU NVME
  2. My laptop I'm using is on my profile too but I'm using an Asus M570DD (or X570DD) with a Ryzen 5 3500U and a GTX 1050 4GB Dedicated GPU. Here's the situation that for some reason i have not noticed until lately: Every time i launch apex legends to play a game, you know (at 1080p low), i tried firing range and I'm getting an ok framerate even though it's slightly dropped, it was doing fine but When I'm playing an online match (let's say trio), For some reason my CPU, even when the laptop is plugged starts to only boost at 1.4GHz, So far i Tried playing vrchat and my boost clocks was as expected (boosting up to 3.6GHz and the GPU to the full power possible) I'm currently not at home but I'll let you know when i run more games and observe but this is odd. I tried: Uninstalling any recently installed application potentially causing it, no go Restarting My speculations/assumptions: Maybe, just maybe my USB Type-C to Type-A Adapter has caused something but that's very likely not the case Thermal Throttling Some applications interference like when i installed vridge or maybe Logitech G hub?? things i have yet to try: Running other games i installed Reinstalling apex legends Maybe reinstalling windows... if there's something I'm missing about the information, let me know and I'll respond as soon as possible... Other than that I would appreciate it if there's any solution, and I'll update if the things I tried managed to fix it or not... Thank you.
  3. Hello there. So i have kind of a complicated problem. I have multiple audio sources and outputs, all an other connection that i want to connect to 1 compact, low budget switch, that is available in Belgium and has a EU power adapter. I don't wanna do any funky adapter things like: "optical audio to L&R (those red and white cables.. don't know what they are called) and then to a 3.5mm jack" I also wanna be able to control my headset from there. I'd like it if there is only one optical audio and one 3.5mm mic jack going to my pc. Not 3 cables Outputs: I have 1 Razer leviathan, that i want to run of an optical audio cable. I also have one headset that uses mic and audio 3.5mm jacks. another thing that i need is again 3.5mm cable to go to my bed. And as last i want to have some wiggleroom so atleast 2 extra outputs. Preferably 1 3.5mm and 1 optical audio So 1(+1) optical audio port(s) and 2(+1) 3.5mm audio jacks Inputs: First my computer that is connected by optical audio. My wii u, apple TV and ps2 are also optical audio. I also need 1 3.5mm audio jack for the Amazon Echo Dot That counts 2x optical audio and 1 3.5mm So this is a really complicated problem and i really hope there is a switch on the market that can do all of that out of the box with no funny DIY stuff. PS: Sorry for my english spelling mistakes if i made some -TechDerp
  4. Greetings. My grandfather is quite hard of hearing, and needs to have his TV at a rather loud volume to be able to hear it. As a result, this disturbs the neighbours and other people living in the house with him, especially since he likes to watch his movies late at night. I've been looking for a pair of transmitter-receiver style wireless headphones he can use with his TV. Bluetooth will not work. Please do not recommend Bluetooth headphones. I need something with a transmitter that connects to the 3.5mm output, and a receiver for that transmitter built into the headphones. They need to be comfortable enough for long-term usage, and hey need to be around $50. I live in India, so while I'm willing to import them, I would prefer if I could purchase them from Indian websites like Amazon.in, Flipkart.com, Snapdeal.com, Croma.com, or anything else you deem appropriate. Once again, here are the criteria that need to be met for the headphones. Wireless transmitter-receiver headphones Not Bluetooth. Comfortable Not more than $60 (4000 Indian Rupees) unless absolutely necessary). Includes all shipping and import fees. Preferably sourced from Indian retail sites like Amazon.in, Flipkart.com, Snapdeal.com, or Croma.com, or any others you might know. I've been looking at the Sennheiser RS series, but hey sell for double their retail prices here in India. I'll be extremely grateful if you could find a good deal on them. Keep in mind that they need to ship to India (international shipping/Amazon Global) and still not be too much more than $60. I look forward to your recommendations. Regards, Aereldor.
  5. Hey, everyone! I am back again to get some help with a build. This time it is a PC I'm building JUST TO STREAM THE GAME RAINBOW SIX SIEGE! I will be playing the game on my already beefy 1080ti/7700k system. This new build will just be doing all of the streaming work. What I have already: - Gigabit Internet (700 Down / 45 Up on Average) - Wired Connection - A liquid cooled 1080ti/7700k/16GB RAM system for running the game. - All of the stream peripherals like webcam/mic. BUDGET AND LOCATION: USA. Budget is flexible, but I would really appreciate a couple variants from low -> mid -> high. AIM: Like I said before, this system will be used for the streaming side of Rainbow Six Siege. The game itself is ridiculously CPU intensive and when I try to stream the game my 7700k idles at 100% usage. It's miserable. :( I have tried so many fixes to get streaming on my own system to work, but if you have any last minute tips to try I will take them... MONITORS: As this is the streaming PC, I will probs just hook it up to one of my spare monitors for managing the stream, but no real need for general usage. PERIPHERALS: Mostly irrelevant for this build. I will grab a cheapo $10 keyboard/mouse bundle from BestBuy. I will need a Win10 OS key, however. WHY AM I UPGRADING: I cannot stream Rainbow Six Siege from my gaming rig. I run Siege on LOW SETTINGS at 1080P and it constantly freezes and crashes. Every other game on the market can be streamed out at 720/60 while I play at 1440/165. Only SIEGE gives me an issue. God, why couldn't I go competitive in ANY OTHER GAME that I could stream. LOL Thanks in advance for all of the help! - Femo
  6. The chance someone here has the answer is severely unlikely, but I might as well try. If you can understand config files and bash, this might be easier of a fix. I am the developer of Ubuntu Lumina, and I build ISO images in a Debian docker. I recently had issue building the images. It keeps giving me a key error where the key file is being found with the wrong file extension. The key is a OpenPGP key made with GnuPG, but was exported to a .key file. However, it is finding and reporting on a .key.gpg file (or just .gpg). If there was something I missed and can fix easily would make life a lot easier, and the groups I have been asking for help in are busy on their respective projects. The ISO builder is below, but I need a 2nd/3rd/*th set of eyes to run over it to see any errors I am missing, because the images I am trying to build do not work. I am confused, and any information on how I am an idiot will help! https://github.com/Ubuntu-Lumina/iso-builder-amd64
  7. Is there any program or way I can make a macro only work in a specific application so like just in a game I'm grinding so I can still use my PC while the macro is running?
  8. Hi, my first post here! I currently have a MX 300 for my system, the 525gb one, and some spinning HDDs for the files, some month ago I bought a BX 300 240 as cache for my work, mostly AE disk cache and auto save, scratch and stuffs, but now the MX 500 is out there so... I want to know how could both compare... BX300 240GB vs MX500 250GB any thoughts?
  9. Thanks for clicking! So, the mouse I'm using at the moment is the one from the mouse + keyboard combo made by ANKER (CB310) Link:https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DTR1370/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00DTR1370&linkCode=as2&tag=technucle-21&linkId=NXFS55ZO5M6CF2RI This mouse is the perfect size, it's wireless, has 3 DPS settings, Great textures, large side buttons and a good sized on and off switch - it's like the perfect mouse! However, I would like to by something more robust as my mouse over the years has lost the use of the scroll wheel and I was hoping the great Linus community could help me find something similar or better than this mouse. It must be wireless and be of a similar size. Secondly, I've been using my Acer Aspire V3-771G keyboard for a very long time. I like the big enter button, the half sized left shift button to make room for the "\" button and the fact that if I press the corner of a button, like the space bar, the button is very soft and doesn't struggle to register me pressing it. Hopefully you're still following me here. Ideally, I would prefer my keyboard to also be wireless but I'm looking for something similar to the keyboard I've described. It must be full too - no missing num-pad or anything. The Anker keyboard isn't the best and I'm really struggling to find something like the laptop keyboard. Any help and advice would be much appreciated - thanks for reading!
  10. Looking for a GOOD deal on an NX500. I've been scavenging the market and the trend seems to sit at: New - $600 Refurb - $500 Used - $450 I still look actively for a great deal on them, but figured I'd ask you guys. More eyes, the easier it'll be to find haha. If you see anything or have one in good condition you'd like to sell, please let me know
  11. Ever wanted that nice volume wheel on your brand new k70 to only control the volume of a certain application? Well you found the right post! alo it will work with any keyboard that has volume buttons/wheels. its not k70 exclusive but i wish it was built into the software. Only thing i don't like about it is that it will open the volume mixer when you first change volume. As long as you don't close it out or minimize it the mixer wont pop up and interrupt you any longer btw this is not my original work. I just adapted it to work better. Here is where i most of the source : http://www.autohotkey.com/board/topic/56889-application-specific-sound-control-for-windows-7-rev-101/ Script: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jnvv2omebcmu7u1/VolumeControls.ahk?dl=0 Compiled version if you don't want to install AHK : https://www.dropbox.com/s/kjwr4hzbdkxkdhz/VolumeControls.exe?dl=0 To have it run at startup in Windows8.1 put script/compiled version in folder shown here : https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/2806079 To change the application it changes the volume of find and replace all "Spotify Free" with the name it shows up as in the volume mixer. For example foobar would be foobar2000. To change how fast it changes volume find "{Up 2}" and "{Down 2}" then replace the number with how fast you want it to change volume. Higher number=faster but less precise changes. Enjoy!
  12. So, there is a huge abundance of people asking about this or a very similar problem, with their headphones, earphones or speakers producing a buzzing/crackling sound with random pops thrown in. I am also having this problem, and after two, whole, weeks, I am still haunted by this crippling problem Browsing LTT, viewing YT videos and playing games are completely destroyed because I'm having to constantly unplug and re-plug in the cable(s), numerous times, and most time I just leave it out for about an hour and then try again. I have concluded that it is partially due to the video output, and the sound produced changes depending on what is on the screen, whether that is Chrome, my desktop background, or two different areas in a game. Though sometimes it follows a pattern, like, it will start when I play a video, or might stop when I plug in a USB and am greeted by the *device inserted sound*, but other times it jut starts randomly, well, at least it seems random. The sound even varies depending on what devices are plugged in, I don't feel like experimenting (again) and explaining the differences, but every time I unplug or re-plug in a device (K70 RGB/mic jack for Cloud) it will change slightly. I'm using my HyperX Cloud, but this problem also exists with my cheap-ass earphones that I have no idea where they came from. The monitors speakers seem to be excluded from this problem, as made evident when I unplug my headphones/earphones and the audio gets output from my monitors speakers without any distortion. I've tried many things, and I'll just list the basic ones here. - Using system outside of case - Using different PSU - Using different peripherals (from K70 RGB & MS-3 r2 to QuickFire Rapid and some wireless $20 mouse/kb combo) - Every possible combination of I/O, front and rear, even outside of case. I even tried a different system which included changing every damn part, but that was unsuccessful because for some reason any keyboard and mouse would not want to whatsoever. I have not tried booting in safe mode, but I don't see any benefit in doing so anyways. I'm not sure if this is relevant, but my K70 RGB keyboard also "malfunctions" every damn time I boot, it'll work for a bit, and then freeze. I think it is my motherboard, but, since my other system refuses to want to cooperate I am not 100%. If any of you guys have any ideas or information I'd gladly take it on board, and if you need to know anything else, feel free to inquire. Sorry for the long ass post, I always go ahead and ramble/add too much info. Cheers! Edit: If I have left something out, or seem to have put 0 effort into this post, it's because I'm just completely done with my PC, additionally I'm tired. Also, if you are wondering what my specs are, it's just in the spoiler in my sig below, bar the Havik 140, mounting screws have gone walkabout. And I have yet to install Windows on my 840 EVO, so it's just sitting on my desk collecting dust, I want to get this sorted before doing anything with it.
  13. Hi guys, The youtuber, SideStrafe, made me aware of a social networking site for gamers. Yes, we have too many social networking sites imho, but having one explicitly feature packed for gamers is cool. I like it. Joined it to see if it was something I'd want to be a part of and so far, I think it is. Just wanted to get it out there. Anyone have thoughts on this? Here is the site. Thanks, Vitalius
  14. Hi guys, If I wanted screws that looked just like this: But are white, where would I look/what would I do? Same thing for the nuts/washers. MDPC is awesome, but Nils (the guy who owns it) is not interested in such things as I was going to email and ask him about them and in his contact us it says not to for that reason and the answer will always be "No". I need white ones for my build. Thanks, Vitalius
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