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Ok, little bit of a click-bait title. I know that I need to turn off my subwoofer and monitors before restarting, which is what I do. The REAL question is what can I do to avoid needing to crawl under my desk to turn off my subwoofer? My thought is that the popping occurs because my audio interface is USB-powered and the popping occurs when the interface loses power (or when it turns back on, not 100% sure which). I wonder if I got one that was self-powered, it might solve the problem? Any other suggestions on what I might do to avoid having to crawl under my desk to turn off the subwoofer? Thanks!
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- audio interface
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Hey everyone, So i finally decided I missed sports games enough to buy a PS5 slim. I didn't pay too much attention when I bought it but unfortunately sony in their infinite wisdom does not include a 3.5mm audio jack anywhere. In fact the only ports are USB-A, USB-C, ethernet (luckily) and HDMI.... So I piped the HDMI with video and audio signal to my monitor... which of course has no speakers because it's a gaming monitor... I thought i'd have to leave my beatuiful hifiman sundara's on the shelf and use a terrible PS5 headset everytime I used the thing until I realized my monitor has a audio passthrough... so I passed it through to my line in on my PC. With a few software tweaks things were running. I had to keep my PC on in order for the soundcard to play the audio through the speakers but at least both devices could use the same speakers. The problem is... with all these connections and chords even in a tight space the signal really loses steam... I can hear it sure but it isn't that rich beautiful audio I've become accustomed to with my Edifier MR4s for speakers and my HIFIman Sundara's. I was going to buy an amp/ dac anyways for the sundaras because they have low volume problems too... that's just due to the impedance though so I expected to have to do that. I'm wondering if it's safe to run a red and white RCA chord to RCA on the back of an amp/ dac output. Then run a RCA to 3.5mm chord from the input to connect the pc. And another aux chord from the Monitor audio passthrough to the 3.5mm input on a amp/dac and then connect the HIFIMAN Sundara's to the front headphone output weather it's quarter inch or 3.5mm doesn't matter sundara's have both. I essentially need an amp dac that can handle the input of a PS5 slim as well as the input from my PC and then output the audio signal to either the headphones or the speakers. I'll never be using the PS5 at the same time as the PC and vice versa. I'll also never need the speakers to play at the same time as the headphones... I'm just really struggling understanding all these audio things. I've also read that if you have powered speakers not bookshelf speakers like i do that you aren't supposed to run them through another amp/dac beecause it can brick them. I ordered the Fiio k5 pro which on their product page says you can run the RCA from your powered speakers to it... so idunno if that is true or not.... I'm just throughly confused and in need of tech tips. PLZ send help. BTW LTT your deskmat is awesome I love it! Thanks for getting me into PC building it's been a great hobby to get into while I heal from a car crash.
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- audio
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Hi. I powered on my PC today and in addition to my raspberry pi suddenly being inaccessible on my network (which a reboot fixed, but I'm perplexed by), my speakers make loud static sounds constantly whenever they are on. I mention the raspberry pi thing just for context. From google images, it seems like I have either the Logitech Z625 or the Logitech Z623. Not sure what my exact model is- I cannot find it. But they looks exactly like those models. The speakers are powered from the wall/outlet and have a power button. As long as they are plugged in to any outlet (i've tried multiple) and the power button is on, they make noise. I've tried turning off my PC's PSU switch, unplugging the speakers from my PC/Motherboard, reseating the cable connections, and I also tested a pair of headphones plugged into my front audio jack on my case, and those work perfectly fine. I dont understand how all of this can happen when it was all working fine 1-2 days ago. Any help is very appreciated.
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So its rather bizzare thing but i happen to own Logitech z623 2.1 speaker system (which i bought 1 year ago off amazon here in UK) which doesn't have ''Volume'' and ''Bass'' writing next to its dials on right satellite speaker, it does have ''THX'' logo, it does have ''Logitech'' writing under its left satellite speaker... it came in a theyr ''new'' blue box design saying ''400w peak'', i was looking online and in youtube videos and all of them had writings on theyr satellite speaker. My brothers owns same speaker set he bought 3-4 years ago, it came in older green and black box, also his has writings ''volume'' and ''bass'' and, his system kinda plays louder also, he can go for prolonged sessions like 1 hour or 2 for 80% volume with 60-70% bass while, mine is connected to Asus Xonar STX soundcard (unlike his to motherboard output) and when i play at 80% with 60% bass after like 40minutes or so i can smell like something burning or some strange smell so i never play them more than 50%, should i be concerned about missing writting and strange smell? because i live in the house where its connected to other houses and we have old people living in other houses so i don't play loud music much...p.s. i was thinking maybe dedicated soundcard is giving like too much input for those speakers thats why? since mobo gives lower output for speakers
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- speakers
- 2.1 speakers
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Hi guys, i have a problem right here, i have this Z313 Speaker and Subwoofer combo and the remote attached to the subwoofer (which the speakers are plugged into} doesn't work. So i wanted to use only the speakers in the mean time (i was searching for a repair shop). If i plug my speakers into the laptop the speakers don't work
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hello im looking for a speakers set under 200 euro. i want some bass but it not my prioritie. (its for my desktop)
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I'm SLOWLY digging out from under the mess of this new editor. BRING BACK TEXT TAGS. PRETTY PLZ. Note: It's getting complete, somehow. Post your complaints corrections and additions below. Everything is my opinion, even if it has a graph or flies in the face of something Linus said. First watch this: FAQs: What's the most important thing I can do to improve my audio experience? I have a low impedance headset. People tell me that onboard audio is terrible and a dedicated soundcard will improve my audio experience. How much will it really improve? What is a DAC? How is it different from a soundcard? Which is better? So, do I need a better soundcard or external AMP/DAC or is my onboard good enough? I think I need a better soundcard. What should I look for in a sound card or an external AMP/DAC? What should I look for in a pair of headphones? I was thinking about buying good high impedance headphones in the future. Should I just get the amp/dac or soundcard now that would drive them, and buy the headphones later? Should I get a cheap soundcard with virtual surround like dolby headphone or use a headphone with discrete drivers? But I want a surround sound headset! What are the advantages of a good pair of headphones with a cheap mic? OK, fine, but can't you just tell me what to get already and be done with it? This is all very confusing! FEATURES: Headphones: Surround Sound: Speakers: AMPS: DACs: Sources: Microphones Charts Links to headphone and Amp reviews on LTT forums (Please check for broken links and report!):
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I have a pair of KRK Classic 5's connected with Balanced TRS cables to an Arturia MiniFuse 1. I have an SVS SB-1000 kicking around that I want too add to the setup. I understand that studio setups typically route from Interface > Sub > monitors. However, the SB-1000 does not have balanced inputs or outputs. Is it possible to add the SB-1000 while retaining balanced audio for the monitors? I believe I could get the system to work with TS (unbalanced) to RCA cables from the interface to the sub, then another pair from the sub to the monitors. I would really like to retain balanced audio for the monitors. Could I use a pair of TRS splitters (one for L & one for R) out of the interface > balanced TRS cables (one from each splitter) to the monitors AND unbalanced TS to RCA cables to the sub (L & R channel)? Or would mixing the TS and TRS cables in the splitter make both unbalanced? Thanks in advance!
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Hi everyone, I recently got my uncles powered Marshall Woburn II Bluetooth as a gift. As I already had one that I got my self a while back, it got me wondering how I could connect them to my TV as separate Left and Right channels. I know that Marshall let’s you combine both speakers as one in their App via Bluetooth, but I was hoping I could do it with wires. My TV has ARC, optical/Toslink and Bluetooth. Marshall‘s Woburn II Bluetooth have an AUX port, RCA (red and white) and Bluetooth. Thanks in advance for any help I receive…
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Hello, I received a Fenda F770X as a gift. Sadly the noise is quite bad. At lower volumes it dilutes the sound and when nothing is playing it is more noticeable than my PC fans. As it is a gift and that the giver often comes around I cannot replace it - I would find it insulting and frankly I am grateful for the gift nonetheless. Can I somehow fix the noise? (by internal modding) I am willing to put the time into it... Thanks
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So I have a Razer Blade 15 2019. The speakers haven't worked for some time. At a certain point they started sounding really tinny and distorted, then one day they just fizzled out. Since then they just make a repeated and rhythmic popping sound whenever audio output should begin (when watching media, gaming, or just adjusting the windows volume). Until recently I've ignored it because I don't use the laptop often, but now I'd really like to get to the bottom of this. I've tried updating drivers, rolling back drivers, disabling and enabling various audio devices, upgrading the operating system and even replacing the physical speakers themselves. However nothing seems to be working and now I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?
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Hey guys/gals, I know this is probably a question that's been asked a billion times, but I've literally not bought a 5.1 speaker setup since 2005. I have an ancient Altec Lansing 5.1 that I literally duct-taped the housing on the subwoofer twice to remove rattling on, and it's sounded fantastic until developing a bit of a rattle again recently. I think it's time to find areplacement, simply because age is not doing the wires any justice. My budget is malleable, I'd prefer to keep things under $250 if possible. Brands, I'm open to suggestions. I've got an ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-H board that'd I'd love to take full advantage of, in case I haven't been so far. The audio on it has been fantastic, both with speakers and on my Logitech headset. Sorry if this is a common "Ugh, not another post like this" post, but I've been out of hunting for PC speakers for... what, 18 years? So my knowledge is 2005-ish. Thanks in advance for any help offered! I'll check back on this later tonight as time allows. :>
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Hello, for some reason the sound on my PC is no longer working. I just finished installing a cpu AIO cooler but now no matter what device I use I can not get any sound to come from PC (tried headphones and speakers). All I get is a low pitched hum sound that does not show up on the volume mixer and starts going even while the computer is still booting up. Situation: - PC is playing Audio (green bar shows on audio mixer) but I can not hear anything except for a low humming sound. - Audio devices are plugged into correct ports on PC and are properly selected in device settings but no output What I Have Tried: - Redownloading Audio Drivers for BIOS - Deleting and redownloading ALL audio drivers - Tested PC audio on both headphones and speakers with no luck - Made sure all Audio related connections on motherboard are still connected - Made sure correct device is connected and selected in settings I think I have now tried just about every commonly recommended solution for this problem and have had no luck at all. Please help me!!
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In this comment someone says it matters what watts my amp output per channel when picking a speaker wire gauge I don't have. I amp I only have a av receiver Where does it say what rating The comment https://postimg.cc/gallery/bPGk2vQ/b2f9d435 My av receiver https://www.denon.com/en-us/product/av-receivers/avr-x1600h My speakers https://petertyson.co.uk/yamaha-ns-p41-5-1-home-theatre-speaker-package?SGS&gclid=CjwKCAjwh-CVBhB8EiwAjFEPGdVprHltu6Azwh6eIwNqTsY0ghr2ZyzGiyLQJatma5NA8ZkFBvunRhoCI3AQAvD_BwE
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I am searching for a new laptop for my younger brother (14) that would need it mainly for music production with apps like Reaper, MuseScore and generally anything about editing, composing and listening to music. It doesn't need to have great gaming performance as the only game I've seen him play was Minecraft, so a laptop that can run it with some nice shaders at 30 fps is more than enough. I don't really know what kind of specs it would need to give a great and futureproof experience with working with music, but I'm guessing that a CPU, GPU and RAM do play a role along with the quality of the speakers (he doesn't really like using hearphones/headphones). It would be best if the screen was more than 14" and less than 17", 16" would be ideal. Resolution of course at least 1080p, but I don't think 1440p is necessary. IPS or OLED doesn't really matter as neither does the webcam resolution (or any webcam at all). Long lasting battery is a must as he would be often using it not plugged in. For the same reason, a thin and light laptop is preferable over a thick and heavy one. Budget is surely at least 1000€ (we live in Italy), but even up to 1800€ is fine, although the less the better ahah No Apple products. What I managed to find were the following laptops, but maybe they are not the most suitable for my brother's needs or are too overkill. All of them have Windows 11 and I listed the models with 2x 8GB of RAM, but it' possible for all of them to increase it to 2x 16GB with around 80€. They are listed in decreasing order of base price: Laptop #1 This one, unlike all others that have heat pipes, has a vapor chamber. Price: 1719€ Size and weight: 360mm x 273mm x 20mm, 2.7Kg Display: 240Hz sRGB LED 16" 2560x1600 CPU: Intel Core i9-13900H GPU: RTX 4050 6GB 75W+25W (RTX 4060 8GB 115W+25W with +94€) RAM: DDR5 4800MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+62€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 73Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Studio Pro with 2 2W speakers I/O: 2.5Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6E AX211, BT 5.2, HDMI 2.1, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 1 Thunderbolt 4, 1 USB-C 3.2, 2 USB-A 3.2, 2 jacks (in & out). Laptop #2 This one, unlike all others that use Arctic MX-4, uses liquid metal for both CPU and GPU. Also, with +144€, it's possible to change the display to 240Hz sRGB LED 16" 2560x1600 and the GPU to RTX 4060 8GB 115W+25W. Price: 1549€ Size and weight: 360mm x 267mm x 22mm, 2.5Kg Display: 165Hz sRGB 16" 1920x1200 CPU: Intel Core i7-13700H GPU: RTX 4050 6GB 75W+25W RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 62Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Audio Nahimic with 2 2W speakers I/O: 2.4Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6 AX201, BT 5.2, HDMI 2.1, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 1 USB-C 3.2, 2 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 2 jacks (in & out). Laptop #3 Price: 1306€ Size and weight: 397mm x 262mm x 25mm, 2.4Kg Display: 144Hz NTSC LED 17.3" 1920x1080 CPU: Intel Core i7-13700H GPU: RTX 3050 4GB 95W+15W RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 54Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Studio with 2 2W speakers I/O: 1Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6E AX211, BT 5.2, HDMI 1.4, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 2 USB-C 3.2, 1 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 2 jacks (in & out). Laptop #4 Price: 1274€ Size and weight: 360mm x 238mm x 23mm, 2Kg Display: 144Hz NTSC LED 15.6" 1920x1080 CPU: Intel Core i7-13700H GPU: RTX 3050 4GB 95W+15W RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 54Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Studio with 2 2W speakers I/O: 1Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6E AX211, BT 5.2, HDMI 1.4, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 2 USB-C 3.2, 1 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 1 jack. Laptop #5 Price: 1227€ Size and weight: 360mm x 238mm x 23mm, 2Kg Display: 144Hz NTSC LED 15.6" 1920x1080 CPU: Intel Core i7-12700H GPU: RTX 3050 4GB 75W+15W (RTX 3050Ti with +156€) RAM: DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x2 (2 out of 2 slots, max 64GB) (+83€ for 2x 16GB) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB (1 out of 2 PCIe 4.0 M.2 slots) Battery: 54Wh Webcam: 1MP with infrared Audio: Sound Blaster Cinema 6 with 2 2W speakers I/O: 1Gbps ethernet, WiFi 6 AX201, BT 5.0, HDMI 1.4, 1 Mini DisplayPort, 1 RJ45, 2 USB-C 3.2, 1 USB-A 3.2, 1 USB-A 2.0, 1 jack.
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Did a random search and stumbled upon Cavern1, 2. Has anyone tried this? TL:DR of the video: Demo of Dolby Atmos sound trailer being decoded on the pc with the positional sound being animated in software Since I only have a standard 5.1 setup, I can't test it's effectiveness. Source: 1: http://cavern.sbence.hu/cavern/ 2: https://github.com/VoidXH/Cavern
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- surround sound
- dolby atmos
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The speaker setup uses a 3x 3.5mm cable setup and then the subwoofer acts as a stand-alone amp and splitter, expanding to 2 left and 2 right speakers, as well as 1 center speaker. Most modern TVs do not sport multiple, or even a single 3.5mm port, so how will I be able to connect it? Even using a seperate audio receiver for the TV doesn't solve the issue since it has no 3.5mm ports. What should I do? Also, what TVs would you recommend that falls under these criteria: Must be 4K Must be a smart TV Must be name brand, (Samsung, LG, Sony). Must be 40-45" in diagonal size. Must support some sort of audio out, either that be through HDMI, Toslink, 3.5mm or otherwise. VESA Mountability. Nice-to-haves but not necessary (Does not have to fit all of these requirements.): Gray/ silver exterior. Good speakers (in case no I can't use the external speakers). G-Sync/Freesync/Adaptive Sync support. HDR capability. Greater than 60hz refresh rate.
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From the album: Home Theater
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I have the Logitech z333 speakers and they are only playing out of the left side. The levels are balanced in settings though. When i plug them in to the front jack it works perfectly fine. When I plug it in the back, the problem occurs. Any help?
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How do I know whether my Motherboard supports 2.1 vs 5.1 surround sound systems? Manual says next to nothing about the actual capabilities. Was thinking of purchasing this > https://www.logitech.com/en-au/product/z607-surround-sound-system as a surround system throughout my room. Not sure if it requires a sound card or simple audio jacks / Bluetooth. Any help appreciated. (photo of my audio jacks of my motherboard MSI X570 Gaming Edge WiFi) Any and all help appreciated, cheers.
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This is happening very randomly. Sometimes the volume slider in windows has no effect on the speakers. Tried windows drivers, as well as JBL's drivers. It's still happening. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. However, volume adjusting does work if I use the physical "slider", however, the volume slider doesn't change in windows. (Sorry if it's kinda complicated) The speakers are connected via USB. Any solutions?
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So the speakers were performing normally. There was electricity going and returning in quick succession. The first two times was alright but the third time, it was accompanied by defeaning noise. Buzzing noise. I quickly switched off the main switch. Disconnected everything else and only left the speakers connected and when I turned it on, the same deafening buzzing noise. No audio would play only noise. And the system isn't a cheap system either. It's a Sony Japan Import. I've run out of warranty as of Nov 2020. So I don't know what to do. Then I isolated the music set-up entirely and took it to another room and tried it. This time I got something like a strange odour and some smell like melting plastic and some bad smelling. Not foul but not pleasant either. Help please. I blew 8k on the system that is ignoring the 1.2k on shipping. What can be the problem? The soundbar is working as a single unit. But the Subs and the traditional 9 speakers aren't. Only noise.
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Hey all, im thinking about getting some speakers for my setup, i have nice setup right now, clean with no wires on the table and nothing is on the desk. I am looking for the best and the most seamless speakers. Can you guys help? There is no budget
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I know you can connect speakers to the GOXLR on the line out or line in thats for sure but how can I connect 2 Yamaha hs 8 on one goxlr there should be a way if someone can explain to me how would be appreciated. thanks everyone who reacted
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I have an old speakers + subwoofer setup where the speakers cannot play sound unless its connected to the subwoofer and uses speaker wire to connect to the subwoofer. Recently, When I connect the speaker wire to the subwoofers, the speakers only plays sound from the left channel. There's no problem with the other speaker, because when its connected to the subwoofer I can still play sound through it via an aux cable. And I know its not that I have my sound set to mono, because when I tried to use an interface, the right channel wasn't playing at all. Help pls