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Original message: New: I tried connecting another internal SATA device to my computer and it wont detect the new device. Recently, attempting to connect a brand new sata device causes the computer to crash. Booting after a crash it sometimes does not post, but may post after showing an error screen saying the system has failed to boot. It will load into the operating system, load to desktop but functions poorly ( low desktop FPS ) which is an entirely new issue. Restarting the computer usually results in windows reporting an error, or the computer failing to post several times. My specs are: Windows 10 home 64 bit American Megatrends International, LLC. 2.07, 10/6/2022 13th Gen intel(R) Core(TM) i9-13900KS, 3200MHZ, 24 Core(s), 32 Logical Processor(s) 2x16GB G.Skill trident Z5 RGB Series (intel XMP) DDR5 z790 steel legend wifi 1080Ti Duke (B0722YBZGK) GPU WD Black SN750 NVMe SSD (wds100t3x0c-00sjg0) Boot drive EVGA Supernova 1600 T2 The old drives were Seagate 2TB FireCuda Solid State Hybrid Drive (ST2000DX002) I'm going to leave the computer completely off for now. Solution: The computer was rebuilt with the 3 radiator fans and 2 Sata drives connected to the same Sata power cable. With someone's direction I divorced the sata cable powering the fans from the sata for the drives. The Hybrid drives are working fine now, and I added 2 more SSDs to the computer and it works perfectly fine now. I'm glad I didn't waste a bunch of time scanning hard drives and unnecessarily rebuilding the PC.

Hi, as the title says, I'm having FPS drops when going to windowed fullscreen and don't know what to do. It was fine the last time I played, and only now presented this issue. Could someone please tell me how to fix this? PS. don't pay attention to the "Window Mode." I just stayed at that setting while pressing alt+enter between screenshots - Thank you

To explain further, I have a 3070ti, I have it hooked up to 3 monitors via Display port (1440p 144hz each). Trying to connect my TV (Samsung S95B) refuses to work on the HDMI port. I have updated GPU drivers and have restarted. I removed all the display port cables and tried with just the HDMI port - nothing. I tried the HDMI on a different display with a different cable and nothing I restarted with ONLY HDMI plugged in and noticed that I can see the original bios loading screen but then black screen when loading into windows? So now I feel like it's not a GPU issue but might be a windows/driver issue? I've updated the GPU drivers though so not sure what else I can do btw this has worked in the past, it just stopped suddenly a month or so ago and I've only just got around to troubleshooting. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Hi everyone, I'm seeking some assistance regarding an issue I've been facing with my recently upgraded PC. Ever since I replaced the motherboard and CPU, I've been experiencing frequent crashes when my PC is under load. I've tried several troubleshooting steps so far, but I haven't been able to resolve the issue. I'm reaching out to this community in hopes of getting some guidance and finding a solution. Here's a rundown of what I've already attempted: BIOS Update: I visited the manufacturer's website and downloaded the latest BIOS update for my new motherboard. I followed the instructions carefully and successfully installed the update. Driver Updates: I made sure to update all drivers, including the graphics card. I visited the respective manufacturers' websites and downloaded the latest available drivers for my components. Driver Uninstall and Reinstall: To rule out any conflicts or errors, I uninstalled the previously installed drivers and performed a clean reinstall of all the drivers. Windows Reinstallation: As a last resort, I performed a complete reinstallation of the Windows operating system. This should have eliminated any previous software conflicts or errors. Despite these efforts, the problem persists. My PC runs 3D Mark, Heaven, and Cinebench without any issues, but it freezes whenever I'm browsing the internet, having Discord conversations, or gaming. It's worth mentioning that both CPU and GPU temperatures remain below 70°C during these activities. Here are the specifications of my PC: Processor: Ryzen 5 5600G Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix B550-E RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3600MHz 16GB Graphics Card: GeForce GTX 1050 Ti Power Supply: 550W I would greatly appreciate any advice or guidance you can provide to help me troubleshoot and resolve this issue. Any suggestions or steps I can try would be immensely helpful. Thank you all for your assistance. Best regards, Pasat98

I have AT&T fiber 500 Mbps connection. All my other devices(laptop, android phone mac computer) seem to easily hit the 500 mbps download on speed test, but the wifi on my desktop after installing this new usb wifi adapter barely gets to 200 mbps. I have checked everything else and I only thing that is weird is the receive link speed being capped at 54 mbps when the wireless adapter should be capped at 1.3 GB. Link to wireless adapter: https://www.netgear.com/support/product/a7000 To make things weirder when I run "netsh wlan show interface" on the cmd prompt I get this: Receive rate (Mbps) : 1300 Transmit rate (Mbps) : 1300 I've tried updating device driver and even downgrading the netgear software version. Would appreciate any insights. Wireless information(from windows page): Protocol: Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) Security type: WPA2-Personal Network band: 5 GHz Network channel: 44 Link speed (Receive/Transmit): 54/1300 (Mbps) DNS suffix search list: attlocal.net Manufacturer: NETGEAR Inc. Description: NETGEAR A7000 WiFi USB3.0 Adapter Driver version: 1030.18.1201.2016 Device info: Device name DESKTOP-I4RU14D Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-9600K CPU @ 3.70GHz 3.70 GHz Installed RAM 16.0 GB Device ID 20BEDC33-0749-49AA-8513-A81EAF7C1FD1 Product ID 00325-96052-14281-AAOEM System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor OS info: Edition Windows 10 Home Version 22H2 Installed on ‎6/‎26/‎2020 OS build 19045.3086

Unable to post, No bios either. When I try to start the PC the DRAM light turns orange initially then goes off and the red CPU light comes on. I know the bios needs to be updated but I cannot update the bios. Tried bios flashback, light blinks then 3-5 seconds later it becomes a solid light. Cpu power is connected, cpu cooler fans are spinning, cpu power is connected, gpu fans are spinning, system fans are spinning. Please help I am at wits end.

I’m having issues with my new computer consistently freezing (doesn’t crash, just kind of pauses and I can’t move the mouse or type until I restart). Parts: MSI Z790 Tomahawk, i5 13600k, Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5, Samsung 980 Pro, Corsair 1200W PSU It started out well, everything was going smoothly and I was able to boot into the windows installer and even install windows. It wasn’t in windows long before it froze. I thought it was XMP so I made sure to turn that off but it was still freezing. I tried updating the bios to the latest version & resetting all settings in bios, still freezes. I tried a different PSU, no bueno. CPU temperature is ~ 40 degrees, so it’s not overheating. I thought maybe it was an issue with the Samsung drive or windows itself so I attempted to do a fresh install, but that just made things worse because it froze mid install and I haven’t been able to get past the boot loader since (I wiped the drive from the bios thinking that would help). I don’t have an extra drive to fully rule out the m.2 ssd. I did some digging and ran memtest86 & I wasn’t able to actually finalize the test (it just kept freezing). I played around with different slots on the motherboard and ended up going out to buy new ram in the hope that’s what was wrong. In that pursuit I’m confident that my old ram was faulty as memtest showed errors (& froze) when I placed the old ram in the very first slot on the motherboard (each old stick gave numerous errors on memtest). The new ram doesn’t give any errors but still freezes and I tried numerous slots. It shows up correctly in my bios and all my testing is with XMP off. I googled and it should be supported by the motherboard (especially with the updated bios version I installed). At this point, I’m pretty sure it’s either the motherboard itself or the CPU on top of the faulty ram which I’ve now replaced. It could also still be the m.2 but memtest runs off the USB so I’m not sure how the SSD would cause it to freeze. I’ve taken the CPU out and inspected and don’t see any clear defects on it or the motherboard. Problem is, I don’t know of any way to isolate the problem further because I don’t have another motherboard or CPU to test. I bought the CPU at Canada Computers and I know they have a diagnostics service but I’m pretty sure it costs money and would probably take a couple days. I’ve also read some not so great reviews online. I’m not sure if I can just ask them to verify the CPU works because I have the receipt, I’ll have to call them later. Amazon is awesome and is able to refund the motherboard if required. Before I do any of that I wanted to ask here to see if I’m clearly missing something. I’m going to try to test the windows boot loader in my old PC a little later to see if maybe it’s just the stupid USB sticks (I don’t think it is because I’ve used two different ones during this whole process). I’m way out of my depth so any help is appreciated!

Thanks for clicking on this post, you're the best already. I have a 10gbit router with (just upgraded to) 4gbit symmetrical internet. The fiber router is a Nokia XS-250WX-A provided by the ISP/cabling provider. The router shows 10gbit negotiation correctly and no visible errors. My issue is that when I connect with 10gbit I get around 1.6gbit down on speed tests and 400-500mbit up, if I force negotiation to 1gbit I get 1gbit down and 1gbit up. moving from 1gbit to 10gbit networking cuts my upload in half Issue occurs throughout different ethernet cables (have tried CAT6, CAT6a and CAT5e) This occurs on 2 isolated computer setups. Setup 1 3950x x570 aorus xtreme Aquantia AQC107 10gbit NIC RTX 3090 (I know this isn't important, I just like telling people about my 3090 lol). Have attempted: - Updating drivers for NIC - Updating firmware for NIC - Removing all other virtual NICs (e.g. hyper-v, vmware workstation) - Playing with lots of settings on NIC (e.g. jumbo packets) Setup 2 1800x x370 asus crosshair vi hero USB-C Sabrent 5gbit adaptor (Aquantia chipset). RX 480 My current thoughts are maybe I'm hitting incompatibility between Aquantia chipsets and the Nokia router, I'm really grasping at straws now.

Hey. I've bluescreened with a Memory Management error and ever since then my DisplayPort ports (on the GPU ofc) are dead. Or rather I blue screened once, one output died, then I bluescreened again the day after and the other one died too. I'm somewhat confident the bluescreens were probably CPU load/temp related. That doesn't sound crazy, maybe the GPU died, maybe RAM died, maybe Mobo died, but hear me out: I've replaced: GPU - GTX 1660S to AMD RX 6600 RAM - Patriot Viper 4 2x8GB 3200MHz DDR4 CL16 to IRDM, DDR4, 16 GB, 3600MHz, CL17 MOBO - MSI B450 GAMING PLUS MAX to ASUS TUF GAMING X570-PLUS Both monitors and both DP cables At this point literally the last piece of the puzzle is the CPU. But as far as I know, CPU should have no say in whether or not the DP ports work, no? I'm running Windows 10 64-bit, but it refuses to post to even BIOS on DP (I did reinstall windows just in case, though). HDMI ports work! I'm on the latest GPU drivers, latest BIOS version, my power supply is 650W so that should be a non issue. I'm really lost at this point. If I wanna try and replace the CPU as well I'll have to return the MOBO and buy a different one since I'm running a Ryzen 3600 and would upgrade to an 12 gen i7 by now. Do you guys have any ideas what this could be? I found this old post, but no resolution: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/no-video-display-after-multiple-blue-screen-of-death-issue-with-motherboard.3327675/

hello i was wondering if anyone here would be so kind as to help me. I recently upgraded my gpu from a Gigabyte Geforce 1660 OC to a ROG Strix 3070 OC. After trouble shooting issues with driver install and retainment of said drivers my 3070 still isnt working properly. while i fixed my drivers still being installed when i reboot. the performance is subpar compared to my 1660. i ran the gpu in furmark and scored 405 points (7 FPS) at 1920 x 1080. i ran another test at a different resolution and scored 132 points (2 FPS) at 3840 x 2160. my pc specs are: cpu: ryzen 9 3900 motherboard: msi b450 pro carbon gaming ac psu: corsair rm650x ram:2x8 trident z 3200mhz cooler: nzxt kraken z63 gpu: rog strix 3070 oc pc case: thermaltake core p3 ATX memory: wd blue 500gb ssd memory: samsung 860 evo 1tb ssd Sata

Looking for a GPU for a new build for my son. Was going to purchase a NIB EVGA RTX 3060 12GB but had a local GPU come available that I'm considering. It's an ASUS RTX 3060ti Knockout Edition (KO). I can't find much on that KO card so was hoping you all can help me make a quick decision on which card would yield the best performance at 1440p. Here are the rest of the specs on the build: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor (Purchased For $299.98) CPU Cooler: Fractal Design Celsius+ S28 Prisma PWM ARGB 103.9 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $158.99) Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690 UD DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard (Purchased For $199.99) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $179.99) Storage: Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($309.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($879.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $99.99) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P5 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $189.99) Case Fan: Fractal Design Prisma AL 85.71 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack (Purchased For $65.99) Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor (Purchased For $400.13) Keyboard: Corsair K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $166.43) Mouse: Logitech G502 HERO Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $39.99) Custom: Corsair MM700 RGB Extended Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad (Purchased For $44.99) Total: $3083.43 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-12-15 13:04 EST-0500

I currently have a ASUS PRIME B550M-A AC motherboard with a WD BLUE SN550 NVMe 500 GB SSD and am planning to add another SSD to increase my storage. I read on the motherboard manual that it has 2 m.2 slots and that each of the slots have a different speed. For example in the picture attached showing the motherboard, one of them says 64 Gb/s and the other says 32 Gb/s and I was unsure whether or not the new SSD should be on the 64 GB/s or if it's fine that I keep the WD BLUE SN550 NVMe 500 GB SSD I have in that slot right now and just have the new SSD on the 32Gb/s slot. I planned on getting a Samsung 980 Pro SSD 1TB but I know nothing about the options I have or whether or not they're compatible with my motherboard. Summary Questions: 1) What SSD should I get(1 TB minimum and compatible with my motherboard)? 2a) Should the new SSD(which is larger and potentially faster?) be in the 64Gb/s slot which my current SSD(WD BLUE SN550 NVMe 500 GB SSD) is in now and move that one to the 32Gb/s slot or just have it slotted into the 32Gb/s slot? 2b) *Follow up question to 2a* If I end up moving my new SSD into the 64 Gb/s slot and my current one into the 32 Gb/s slot, will all the files and other things on the SSD stay there after I move them and can I transfer the files and other things on my current SSD to the new one after moving them? 3) After I receive my new SSD, is it fine to just open up my computer without removing my motherboard from the case and insert the new SSD into one of the slots on my motherboard(I wouldn't have to remove any other parts such as the GPU to access my slots or something else before adding in the new SSD)? *Sorry for the really long post or unclear questions(if they are) as I want to make sure I don't mess anything up when making this purchase and installing my new SSD into my PC* *If you need more information,you can ask in the comments and I would be glad to provide them in the comments or edit my post to include that information.*

Hello, I am new here and I don't know much about tech so apologies in advance if I sound stupid (it's because I am). Please don't judge me for buying a prebuilt pc, again I am tech illiterate and would make y'all cry if I broke several cpu pins TECH: Wacom Mobile Studio Pro 16- 2017 version (MSP16) purchased Dec 2017 https://www.wacom.com/en-br/products/pen-computers/wacom-mobilestudio-pro-16 CyberPowerPC - Gamer Supreme Gaming Desktop - AMD Ryzen 7 3700X - 16GB Memory - AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT - 1TB SSD purchased June 18, 2021 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpowerpc-gamer-supreme-gaming-desktop-amd-ryzen-7-3700x-16gb-memory-amd-radeon-rx-6700-xt-1tb-ssd-white/6455900.p?skuId=6455900 MY PROBLEM: So the problem isn't much of a problem its just annoying. I have a MSP16 that is a stand alone pc and can function as a second monitor for any desktop or mac that has the proper plugs. When I plug it into my pc it make a weird noise after everything is shut down, not while the pc is only after its off. Also when the pc is off the motherboard has little led lights that turn on. the lights are for the CPU and the DRAM. The lights and the noise stop after i unplug the MSP16 from the pc itself or the power brick. sometimes the noise persists but that's only when the MSP16 is on without the power brick and still plugged into the shut down pc. the only solution i came up with is to not leave the MSP16 plugged in after i shut the pc down. But my main concern is that when I do upgrade my MSP16 to a bigger screen tablet the problem will still persist. REMEMBER, this is only a problem for mew when the pc is off, the pc works normally when on. WHAT I'VE TRIED SO FAR: I have tried to just use the MSP16 as the main display and have nothing else plugged in, but the noise persists I have tried the MSP16 plugged into a different pc and even a MacBook, no noise happens. though the different pc has on on board gpu. i have tried different cables for the MSP16, the noise still persists. It's quite possible that my cables could also be the blame here since they are old, but not sure how they can deteriorate without being used. i tried unplugging the pc itself from the wall, it seems obvious but there was no noise. SPECS: OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64bit BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. P1.60, 10/14/2020 Motherboard: ASRock B550AM Gaming PSU: best buy doesn't have an exact answer but down in the Q&A area some say its a Apevia 800W Gold 80 Plus power supply CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X Processor Speed (Base): 3.6 gigahertz RAM: 16GB (2 sticks of 8 GB) GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT I'm not sure what to list here exactly so please tell me what other info you need ADDITIONAL INFO: Yesterday the pc wouldn't wake from sleep for some reason so i have to try just turning it off and on again via the power button, itas working fine now, idk why it happened. I also have an Elgato HD60s plugged in as well. the GPU nor the motherboard make noise or light up, but there is noise, possibly coming from the psu, since when I switched off the switch in the back (while the pc was off) the noise stopped and didn't come back when I flipped the switch back on. i don't think the noise has came back but i haven't heard it recently. Also also, the ram stick fell out during the building process i think since when I receive the pc the ram stick was stuck underneath that foam to make sure nothing breaks in shipping. I would have returned the pc to get a new one, but i actually already did that the week prior since I sadly receive a banged up pc from the ups. side note the ups destroyed the first box my pc came in and the whole thing was dented and curved. I think they played basketball with it. I have a link to me recording the sound the pc makes. the audio is really quiet so turn it up to really hear it. It might just be me being to paranoid that my pc is broken, but who can blame me when the ups traumatized me. I haver also attached a picture of which lights are on. LINK TO NOISE: https://studio.youtube.com/video/wyVatFb4IWQ/edit

My boss asked me to check out his son's gaming rig because all of its USB ports stopped working after switching cases. He uses an ASUS Tuf x570 Plus Wifi and a Ryzen 7 3700x 8-core. Everything else seems to be working completely fine. I was able to use a ps/2 keyboard to install the latest bios and chipset, check for any missing drivers and set the pcie lanes to 3.0 instead of 4.0 but no luck. Since USB is not outputting any power (other than the USB C port which seems to be outputting power but no data) I thought he might have missed a power cable but it all looks good. Could he have shorted it? Any other ideas? Rig: Case: MASTERBOX TD500 Mobo: ASUS Tuf x570 Plus Wifi Graphics: GeForce RTX 2070 Super CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700x 8-core RAM: 2x 16gb Ripjaw DDR4 PSU: Corsair RM750 Windows 10 Home 64 Bit The Rig was built around October last years and apparently had no issues until now. Here's a link to the Sysnative Dumb: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZlZRrOH7oiKV6A5Kb8PgvKAdPXhHcV_r/view?usp=sharing

I went to install the cyberpunk preload and my pc started acting weird. I restarted my pc and it would not boot. I eventually got it to boot but it took 10 min even on an ssd. I restored it to 5 days ago and its doing the same thing but now wont load to windows. Reinstalled bios and nothing happened. Decided to reinstall windows and it still wont boot into windows and just to get to the bios it takes 10 min. Did I get motherboard malware? specs: Ryzen 5 1600 Geforce RTX 3070 FE 16gb GSKILL RIPJAWS V 3200mhz MSI B350 Tomahawk WD SN550 1tb m.2 4tb WD server hdd 700w evga Do I need a new motherboard?

Hello, I currently own a ryzen 7 270 (non x) running 3.45GHz (.2GHz above stock) and I would like to make it run boost clock frequencies, but am unsure of how far i can push the voltages... I would probably use Ryzen Master to overclock it, but like i said, im not sure how far i can push the voltages and/or clock speeds. If anyone has ever overclocked this CPU and has stable values for something like a 4GHz clock speed, I would really appreciate them. I did try to search this up on Google and Youtube, but since all "tutorials" that came up were really sketchy in the sense that it was a guy in his garage with a 240p webcam and recording the screen with his phone. I included a screenshot of my Ryzen Master if that helps... Cooling wise, i think im fine, since at 3.4GHz i reached a max temperature of around 65C while the case air was hot from the GPU aswel (using the included wraith spire that i got with the CPU, but I am thinking of upgrading to something like a Dark Rock or equivalent).

Hardware: MB: MSI B460M Pro-VDH Wi-Fi, Intel Core i5-10400F, GTX 1050ti, 8gb of Forza DDR4 RAM (1x8), some generic IBuyPower psu (RX-400XT-SI?) Recently I was using my prebuilt computer when it crashed. When it crashed, my keyboard lights turned off like I put my computer into hibernate. After restarting, it no longer boots. It doesn’t even post, for that matter. The fans spin up, and the EZ Debug LED’s work. With RAM installed, they cycle from CPU to DRAM, back to CPU (video attached). Without RAM, it stays on DRAM. So far I haven’t been able for it to post. I’ve ruled out the GPU, RAM, and drives. Any ideas to what’s stopping it from booting? Troubleshooting I’ve tried: Resetting CMOS, different RAM sticks, different GPU, no boot devices plugged in, using DIMMA1 with the RAM stick (from the MSI manual) FullSizeRender.MOV

Hi I'm helping my brother with a computer upgrade and ran into a problem this evening with trying to put the Hyper 212 EVO v2 on his new ASUS ROG Strix B550-A Gaming motherboard. The posts that are supposed to secure the back bracket to the MB refused to tighten and felt like there was maybe 1-2 mm of thread required to make the them fit on the board. Part of the bracket was also dangerously close of a bank of capacitors and I felt like that might cause a problem. I did what I usually do in these cases and tried to Google if anyone else had similar problems. The only thing I could find was a reddit thread for an ASUS ROG Strix X570 motherboard where the OP ended up deciding that the cooler wouldn't work with their motherboard. I tried looking for a compatibility list for the B550 to see which coolers would work but everything I could find told me the Hyper 212 Evo V2 should work. Am I missing something is there a washer or something I need to add clearance to the posts?

My friend's desktop keeps powering off at strange times. It has happened while playing Valorant or Rocket League, no heavy titles. It has also happened when it was just chilling in chrome or watching Hulu. No signs of over heathing or anything else like that. I've tried taking a look at the Event Viewer to see what happened but I can't figure anything based on that. No error codes or blue screen happens, just everything going black. I can upload any requested information needed. Thank you Friend's PC specs Ryzen 5 5600x ASUS B-550A Gaming G.Skill Trident Z Neo 2x8GB 3600MHz CL16 Be Quiet shadowrock 3 Zotac GTX 1660 Cooler Master V Gold V2 750W edit* added ram to specs edit** found solution. Power Supply was a faulty unit.

- ISSUE RESOLVED, SEE THREAD BELOW FOR RESOLUTION OF THIS TOPIC - Hi all - thanks in advance for any help. I recently upgraded my personal/work rig and wanted to reuse the old parts to build a new PC entirely focused on emulation for 70s to early 00s gaming. My CPU (a Ryzen 5 3600) and motherboard (MSI B450 Tomahawk Max) came directly from my personal rig and were my daily drivers for about a year. I know these two parts work together. I bought 2 sticks of 4GB DDR4 memory at 2666 MHz (PSD48G2666K, if anyone needs the part number), and then purchase at GT730 4GB (Fermi, nor Kepler architecture) card off of eBay. I’m carrying forward a 500 watt “be quiet” power supply from my last build. Also using a 240GB SATA SSD for my boot drive. Anyways, I plugged everything in upon the card arriving today but the system isn’t posting. When I turn the system on, the back of my motherboard illuminates white and then becomes red (let me clear, none if the EZ diagnostic buttons (CPU/VGA/DRAM/BOOT) are illuminated after those lights cycle on power on - just the LED strip on the back of the motherboard), but I get no signal from my card. I have tried 2 different monitors and all outputs from the card (DVI/VGA/HDMI). The card is plugged into the correct PCIEx16 slot (Gen 3), and I am indeed pugging my monitors into the card, not the back of my mobo. Previously, this motherboard had a 2070 Super in it and 32GB on 3600 MHz RAM. The fans on the GPU, CPU, and case all turn on when I power on the system, but I’m not getting any signal. A few other things - when I have the monitors plugged into the card, they repeatedly cycle before going into power saver mode. When they’re not plugged into the card, they do not cycle and instead just have a box that says “Searching for signal…” thar floats around the screen. I don’t know if this is a monitor being plugged into something habit or if there’s some data being communicated by the card to the monitor. Finally, and this shouldn’t make a difference but I just want to make it known, when I upgraded my personal rig I went from a 500 to 1200Watt PSU. Since they’re both from be quiet!, I kept the cables all cable managed and in place on my personal rig (cables from the 500W PSU attached to the 1200W PSU) and I’m using the cables that came with the 1200W PSU with the 500W PSU on this new rig. Again, don’t think this matters because they’re cables from the same manufacturer. Thanks again for any and all help. Really have no idea what to do at this point!

I’ve never had a GPU with coil whine, so I’ve never actually heard coil whine in person. As such, I am not familiar with the beautiful choir of sounds that can accompany coil whine. Just today, I got a 6700 XT card and put it in my system. Sometimes the card will buzz every now and then. It comes and goes, and only seems to happen when under load. However, even that is not terribly consistent. I could not get the card to make a sound at all when running Fur Mark, but I could with other benchmarking software and games. It sounds a little similar to the buzzing when a zip tie or cable is just barely touching a fan, and it definitely sounds like it could be electrical-related. At first I thought maybe there was an issue with the fans, but they seem fine after manually testing them with Afterburner. Is it possible for coil whine to not actually whine but rather buzz?

Hello, First of all I will try to write the best I can, but I just spent 5h on this and english is not my mother tongue so be nice My config: OS a custom Windows11 ( up to date via windows update) and also tried a fresh Win11 install Motherboard: ROG Strix B550-A Gaming Processor : AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Socket AM4 GPU : 3070 ti I have a problem on my computer. I made it work under heavy load for some testing recently it was doing fine and temps were good. It started crashing thow and rebooting, but I was still not very worried. But it finally started crashing very quickly after windows login, and now it doesn't even go to the windows login. ( Windows automatic repair loop) I originally thought it was just my windows install that was corrupted, so I tried to reinstall windows with a bootable usb. The bootable usb was also not booting properly most of the time, and even after a successful reinstall on my ssd, It will not boot windows. I tried to put that same ssd with the fresh install on my laptop, and it worked fine. I tried to remove most of my unnecessary parts, (other drives, wifi card, swap RAM sticks etc..) didn't fix the issue, in fact booting with no drives on the usb stick was also causing failed boot sequence when the asus logo appears and then black screen and reboot. my second thought was that is was an uefi/bios problem (even thow uefi works fine and don't crash) So I reset the CMOS battery and flashed the last version of UEFI on my motherboard successfully. Didn't fix the issue. I now fear that my very recently acquired PC has a faulty motherboard or CPU. I wanted to see if someone can give me more insight on what the problem might be. thanks in advance

I wanted to install windows 11 so i enabled safe boot on my motherboard. After restarting the computer goes straight into bios. Doesnt recognise any boot devices. The ssd does work in another computer, its like it doesnt recognise the drive. I tried resetting the cmos, but it looks like the safe boot option stayed on. Is there a way to hard-reset the board, or do something with the dual-bios function? mobo: gigabyte aorus b450 elite v2 fixed: i guess 5 minutes wasnt enough to reset the cmos, it worked after leaving the battery out for a few hours

I just upgraded from the 512 GB SSD that came in my laptop to a 2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus. I didn't have a way to directly connect them, and I didn't have a large enough drive that I could wipe, so rather than cloning, I use the regular windows drive backup ISO to transfer everything. In doing so, it created a 512GB partition for everything. Should I just create a partition for the rest of the storage? Is there a way to enlarge the partition without deleting my data? Thank You!!!

GPU: GeForce RTX 3070 TI MoBo: ASRock B450M Steel Legend CPU: Ryzen 5 3600XT Ram: 16GB PSU: EVGA 500 GD, 80+ GOLD I'm currently planning on upgrading my PC. I'm getting a new PSU and 32 gigs of ram. I'm considering getting a new CPU and motherboard as well. I looked into the CPU and UserBenchmark says that between the two I'm looking at (Ryzen 7 5700X and 5800X), there's an improvement of around 15%. I looked into upgrading to an x570 motherboard, and the most I could find is that they're SLI compatible (which I don't care about). I'm not really using my PC to render super complex blender creations or mine bitcoin. I just want to play the latest games, do work and edit videos. At the very most, I'll play some kind of very demanding VR game. Is it worth it in the long run to change it?