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Showing results for tags 'red'.
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Summary Japanese camera company Nikon announces that they are purchasing RED Digital Cinema and that it will become a wholly owned subsidiary. Quotes My thoughts I did not have this on my 2024 Bingo card by any longshot. That being said, I hope that Nikon does allow for others to use for instance ProRes Raw internally, and to make it easier for other companies to introduce their own raw formats as they see fit. We all know that RED was very lawsuit happy, so let's also hope that Nikon doesn't follow Reds footsteps and tries to sue anyone who even thinks about wanting to do a raw format. Sources Nikon PR: https://www.nikon.com/company/news/2024/0307_01.html News Shooter: https://www.newsshooter.com/2024/03/06/nikon-acquires-red/ The Verge: https://www.theverge.com/2024/3/7/24093109/nikon-acquiring-red-cameras-film-motion-picture-tv
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Me and my friend build a pc with an: ryzen 7 7800x3d rx 7900 xtx b650 tuf gaming board 750w psu be quite bronze we were able to get into the bios but not futher. right now we only get a red cpu light. after we shut down the pc it started to get realy wired. it turns on than insteand off. than it turns on but we only getting a red light on cpu. is it a problem with the cpu or the psu. idk what we did wrong Thanks for your help
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Hello all, Need your opinions, busy with a new build. Need some input on the CPU + Motherboard. Which would you use? and also if you could say why you would recommend that choice. These are the options available in my location INTEL Intel i5 13500 - BX8071513500 MSI PRO Z690 - PROZ690-ADDR4 AMD AMD Ryzen 5 7600 - 100-100001015BOX MSI PRO B650M - PROB650M-AWIFI Thanks in advance
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Hello, I tried building my first PC today, but it doesn't seem to boot up (the RGB and the fans turn on though). The motherboard flashes red, than yellow/orange, then white and stays white at that point. I also noticed that the GPU's fans didn't turn on And it could be important to note that the PSU I bought came we 2 PCIe cables and 2 CPU cables to connect to the motherboard. I connected the two CPU cables, but then noticed that my GPU had 3 PCIe slots for my 2 remaining cables (and there are no other PCIe/CPU slots free on the PSU anyway. The only way to plug in a third PCIE would be to unplug one of the Cpu cables, buy an additional PCIe cable and plug that additional cable to the motherboard, but is that what I need to do? Would this really fix the issue?) I hope I can quickly fix and that this is not a problem like a damaged component (but it shouldn't be. Everything looked good). And I only had a bit of difficulty when seating the ram (had to push a little more) More details on the build: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Vv9bL9 -
From the album: My first build
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From the album: My Build, the beginnings
These are the 2x8GB DIMMs I have been using for a while. I changed to the Anniversary RAM because it fits my build a LOT better.© TPaliciusV
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Wolfenstein wallpaper I made for the upcoming game. -
From the album: Watercooled 1156 PC (my old rig)
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From the album: Watercooled 1156 PC (my old rig)
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From the album: Watercooled 1156 PC (my old rig)
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From the album: Watercooled 1156 PC (my old rig)
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Current Red Mist pc. I7 4790k overclocked to 4.8ghz Msi Z97m 16 GB ram Evga 1070 ftw Corsair platinum h100i cooler 2 Samsung ssd's in raid 0 bootdrive 1.9Tb ssd for games Custom corsair cables and rm 650 watt Power supply Coolermaster Q300l case I now have a 4k monitor and want to play in 1440p or 4k and my current system above isn’t cutting it anymore, so my 2 questions are do I go with: i5 12400f or Amd 5600x msi b660m mortar or Msi b550m mortar and Corsair vengeance ddr4 3600 16gb and samsung 980 pro 500gb nvme? I want to keep the case, psu and aio (would need to upgrade the mount for intel system) and eventually replace the gpu once the prices start to become reasonable or should I replace the gpu 1st and then once that's paid for go with either amd or Intel cpu system?
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I'm reusing a transparent Cooler Master 230mm with red LED lights shown in the picture for my new case project... ... if I were to snip the wires that power the LEDs... Would that break the circuit for the fan, and prevent it from rotating?
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I want to see what green coolant (like car coolant) looks like when the waterblocks and fans are all set to a red color theme, to see if I like it or not. About to buy coolant for my loop, and I'm playing with ideas. Thanks in advance! -
Ok, I know it is impossible to make it completely silent, but are they quieter than normal reds? I am currently searching a keyboard with red silent switches because, well the name says, they are silent and I really don't like sounds of keyboards so I am searching for the one that is quiet. I am asking because I can't really find them that much, and when I find them, they usually are expensive or doesn't have lighting which I need (I am not talking about RGB, I just want static lighting) or doesn't have numpad. Are they worth it? And if yes do you know any cherry mx red silent keyboards with numpad and lighting (I really like Red but any color would work)?
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Hello Everyone! I am looking to buy a new internal hard drive to store my music, game, movie library and I found a really good deal on an Ultrastar hard drive. The thing is that these drives are marketed as data center drives which confused me since they have similar specs to the gold and red series. Price-wise, the Ultrastar is the cheapest, then it's the gold one which costs 25€ more and then the red which costs 50€ more (compared to the ultrastar). The Ultrastar and the gold one also have 512mb cache as opposed to the red one which has 256mb which is strange because the red is the most expensive one on the list... Does anyone know the difference between the Ultrastars, gold and red drives and which ones are the best reliability-wise and for my use-case? Thank you in advance
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So my current situation is that i am running out of storage on my WD Black 4TB, Ive noticed best buy has WD Reds on sale, they are Currently Advertising a WD Red 8TB 7200RPM Drive For $194,99. Would this drive be fine to run as a Games Drive, or what are the differences between this WD red and a WD Black. thanks for the info Link to the drive: https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/wd-red-plus-8tb-3-5-7200rpm-sata-iii-nas-internal-hard-drive-wdbavv0080hnc-wrsn/15304526
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Finnished this blog now?: Not quite, I am yet to do the Grid2 Benchmark but I can talk about the general use of the cards. Before modding, the reference card was extremely loud, as you can imagine, whereas the Tri-X cooler stayed almost silent. After this mod, I found that while the total noise for both cards has been reduced, the single 120mm fan is having to work harder that the three 80mms on the Tri-X. So it's louder post mod unfortunately. On the bright side though, the card runs at the same temperature but goes back to idle temps much faster. As for the reference, almost a 40 degree difference in max temperature. VRM: The bane of my life while working on these cards, VRM temps are still higher that I would like. At this point though, I can't amend this short of buying bigger and less stylish coolers. Which might seem like a good trade off to some of you but for me, getting this build to look right is more important that perfect temps. 65 degree average VRM in intensive games is good enough for me. Whats Next?: Well since the change from PC In A Drawer to PC On The Wall, I have made progress with the designs. These cards should be installed into the custom case next week, since its half term I can get a day off to do it in. However, I am working on another Attempts blog now. This one will feature a some packaging and an ITX Motherboard. I will not be uploading onto this blog until the cards are fitted into the final case, or until something breaks. Thank You :)
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Grid 2 Benchmark, Max Settings, 2560x1080: Maximum VRM temp was 64 degrees, well within acceptable limits considering the up to 105 degree guarantee. However, Tri-x Sapphire cooler VRM temps will not get beyond 50 degrees with the same settings. This is due, most likely, to the difference in heatsink size between the two cards rather than the airflow. After I ran the bench on loop for 50 minuets, the VRMs dropped down to 40 in a matter of seconds and only took five minuets to get back to the idle (34). Of course, these are the VRM1 temps on the card, which are the main VRMs. j VRM2 readings showed a max of 61 and an idle of 51 with just heatsink and no airflow at all. This is also acceptable and I plan to get some airflow over these sinks too in the final project. There are no benchmark images due to the 2mb size limit and the fact that I have no compression software at this time. Fresh install and what not. So is all I can provide at the time. FPS was an average of 56 and max of 79 (rounded) this is all at stock clock. I will be overclocking the cards once I have compared this first 290x with the second after it's modded. Thank You :) p.s. Planning to change mounting for the second 290x. Using Paste for the VRMs rather that the provided pads. I will also spread the processor paste myself to ensure it has good spread.
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Finally Some Results!: Geil VRM sinks came this morning, only two days late... Anyway, these sinks are pretty small and with a fan ghetted on the card pretty poorly, they still hit 103 degrees with furmark. However, in regular gaming, I am seeing 95s on average which is on par to the reference cooler that was on here. This post isn't about the core temps but I'm really happy with them. So this higher VRM temp is worth the sacrifice. Can I Make It Better?: I can certanly get rid of the thermal pads that came with the VRM sinks, replaceing it with a nice dolop of MX-4. Which could help with the temeratures. Moreover, placing a fan closer to the sinks will be much better. The original schems for the drawer build had me using the flow directly from the rads to cool the MOSFET, VRAM, RAM and VRMs but I think I am looking at adding more smaller fans into the mix. I suppose the two 200mm NZXTs I have hanging arround would suffice but they would wreck my airflow. Since this is by no means the finnished design I will not be posting in depth test results. Photos!: Whats Next?: Tomorrow moring I will be uploading some core temp readings and tomorrow evening there will be proper bench results. Using furmark and Vally most likely. In addition, I have H60 CPU temps to post on the drawer blog. As well as some mounting test images and other odds and sods. I'd apologise for the lack of content over the past few days but it's not like I've been slacking off. My main systems motherboard died, GA-990FX-UD5. Flat out broke, PC shut down mid youtube video and would not post. So I'm suing an MATX GA-78LMT-USB3 I theived out of my sisters build. Some good news though? I am going to be splurging and grabbing an Asus Formula V. So look forward to that blog. Thank You :)
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Wow, That's A Lot Of Hardware...: So about a month ago I tore my rig apart for a clean. This was during my move from the office to bedroom. I took the whole of my case apart and blasted it with an air compressor. Broke out the wet wipes too, got everything looking nice and fresh. I've got some images of the hardware laid out but nothing of the actual job. I did this within three hours so everything apart from the HDD and the GPU got taken apart. This is before I got me second 290x. Whats Next?: Many things, some stuff coming out on the main blog for upcoming builds. As well as progress with the red mod. Expecting big updates early next week now since delivery dates got pushed back. Looking for any input you might have for this project, and for the others. Thank You :)
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Ok so a week or two back I stumbled upon some sweet looking in desk pc's. Now, I really enjoying building both computers and things like desks so I thought why not? I've been meaning to do a new build and haven't been able to get to it, so this is going to be the new project. Finally yesterday I was able to head down to Lowes to pick up the materials. I decided to go with 3/4 inch MDF due to its strength and it's ease of use. I also bought a 18 x 24 piece of acrylic for the window. So now here's the thing, the 4 x 8 sheet of MDF has to if in the 3 x 5 bed of my car. As you can imagine....it didn't really work. The final result being the sheet of wood half hanging off the car, strapped down by twine and bungee cords. This huge piece of wood is like a sail, and I'm trying not to get blown of the highway by it. I'm almost home, after driving 45 down the highway with my flashers on and what do I see ahead. Police check point. As if this shitty drive couldn't get worse. So I hang a hard u turn and head back in the other direction...causing the wood to slide out of the back. Finally after my 3 hour journey, I had made it home with the supplies, completing the first step of my build. Hoper you enjoyed, I'll be posting random updates on it so make sure to keep up.
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Ok so a week or two back I stumbled upon some sweet looking in desk pc's. Now, I really enjoying building both computers and things like desks so I thought why not? I've been meaning to do a new build and haven't been able to get to it, so this is going to be the new project. Finally yesterday I was able to head down to Lowes to pick up the materials. I decided to go with 3/4 inch MDF due to its strength and it's ease of use. I also bought a 18 x 24 piece of acrylic for the window. So now here's the thing, the 4 x 8 sheet of MDF has to if in the 3 x 5 bed of my car. As you can imagine....it didn't really work. The final result being the sheet of wood half hanging off the car, strapped down by twine and bungee cords. This huge piece of wood is like a sail, and I'm trying not to get blown of the highway by it. I'm almost home, after driving 45 down the highway with my flashers on and what do I see ahead. Police check point. As if this shitty drive couldn't get worse. So I hang a hard u turn and head back in the other direction...causing the wood to slide out of the back. Finally after my 3 hour journey, I had made it home with the supplies, completing the first step of my build. Hoper you enjoyed, I'll be posting random updates on it so make sure to keep up.
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The MX Red is one of the most iconic switches thanks to Cherry, the German mechanical keyboards and switches manufacturer famous (or infamous depending on how you look at it) for their MX Red, MX Brown, and MX Blue switches, which are linear, tactile, and clicky switches respectively. Today we'll be taking a look at the MX Red, this particular model specifically from Gateron, a manufacturer of switches whom have cloned Cherry's MX Red design and made their own edition, coined the Gateron Red. The MX Red is a linear switch as mentioned before which means there is no interruption in the actuation, meaning the keyswitch goes straight down when you press on it. Thanks to WASDkeyboards for providing the force curve chart below, we can see the actuation force of the Red is around 45g, and bottoms out at around 65g. This is a particularly light switch that is catered towards gamers who require quick actuation, so a 45g actuation force 2mm down on the switch is preferable for competitive gaming scenarios. Opening up my specific Gateron Red switch, the material is extremely smooth and the feel of the switch can attest to that. The stem legs are smooth which allow the leaf to cleanly slide along the stem legs. However for my tastes, I find using the Reds as stock to be scratchy, this is hard to explain for those who have not used lubed switches. My favorite analogy is rubbing your arm dry versus rubbing your arm with lotion applied. While the Reds are subjectively smooth when stock, the smoothness is accentuated greatly when they are lubed. I lubed my Reds with Tribosys 3204 and they both sound and feel extremely smooth, greatly improving upon the stock scratchiness. I would personally even rate the smoothness when lubed above something like a NovelKeys Cream. Personally, I am only comfortable using Reds lubed, as I find using them stock to be a bit too scratchy for my tastes, but at stock, they are bearable. They are not the smoothest linear I have ever used but they are also not the worst, although making a non-smooth is a difficult bar to clear. As a mainstream switch and probably the most well-known linear on the market, the Red is a fantastic choice for those who are after a smooth and swift typing experience. While they are a touch too light for me to use, I do enjoy the smoothness and the lightness is rather inviting when playing games that require that quick actuation. For people that want something heavier, I recommend the Yellow or Black switches, as those are a bit heavier than the Red whilst still retaining the smoothness of the Red. Otherwise, the Red is a great switch choice.
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