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very stupid, simple question, do i remove the plastic attached to the backplate of this new card? it seems to be adhesived on so i dont know what to think...

Hello, my surge protector fulfilled it's purpose very well but during the surge (which took out a block), there was a meter high shower of sparks out of it. It appears to be working fine, aside from clicking noise (from relays) upon plugging in again that have since ceased. Here is the question, should I replace it ASAP? I attached a datasheet for it. 2906628.pdf

Hello Everyone, As of September 8th my main server has been hacked. I live in a house-hold. I run this server for 2 different gaming servers. I am asking for some serious help. I don't know what to do. I have Windows Server 2022 Datacenter(Desktop Experience) installed. I was using PC Manager the free edition from Microsoft. I guess it didn't help because the server got hacked and they changed the Login and I was unable to access my server. I had to actually take the hard drive out and put it into another server as a secondary drive to browse the files on it. Finding in the "Downloads" Directory there were some files downloaded that I never downloaded. It was on September 8th. That is how I know that it got hacked. I am un-sure what Antivirus/Firewall to use. My home desktop uses ESET Smart Security. I would use ESET Server Security but I don't want to pay an arm and leg for their service so I need something open source that is free right now if that is even possible. I have tried to Google my way around to finding a Antivirus/Firewall for my server but I have had no luck. I am also un-sure how the hacker even hacked my server. If anyone might know of a way to figure out how I can check to see how my server got hacked that would be a huge plus as I have been struggling with that as well. Much help is applied right now. Thanks so much, -HomeAdmin247.

Hi! My brother has a MSI Pro B660m-a and a 12700KF, i can apply a voltage offset in the BIOS but has no effect, also XTU says tha UVP is enabled, i saw that some motherboards can have an option to disable UVP but i cannot find specific info about each motherboard, in this case seems that this MSI does not have that option. You guys can confirm some model (preferred B660 chipset) in wich i can disable UVP and apply undervolt? Also i bought for myself a 13700 (non K) and im wondering if i will be able to undervolt it (i have no motherboard yet). All this Undervolt Protection that intel introduced its new for me and i cannot find much info about what can or cannot do with their CPUs!! Its frustrating.. Hope you can help me, Thanks!!

I bought a PIxel7Pro and was going to get the Grip Case from dBrand for it. On my work phone (iPhone 14) I use their case and screen protector and have used a dBrand screen protector on my old Pixel 3XL and it was fantastic. However, dBrand no longer makes screen protectors for phones other than iPhones. I have in the past had issues with cases not interfacing well with screen protectors and am wondering what you all think is the best screen protector and case combo. Any help would be much appreciated. VR Ben

Hey, I decided on purchasing an XPS 13 9360 model(Kaby Lake) and was curious if anyone had experience with getting the XPS dbrand skin? I haven't had an XPS before, does anyone know if the form factor is the same, would it be compatible? As an aside, anyone used the marble finish? thinking of putting that on the top and a metal finish on the trackpad, does that degrade touch sensitivty? Thanks in advance!

I know (referring to LMG's recent video regarding ISP's being able to see what you're searching) that all google searches are encrypted but your ISP can see what website you're using. e.g. 'google.com' or 'CatMemes.meme' but they can't see 'CatMemes.meme/CatFallingOutOfWindow' because that parts encrypted, but when using a tor browser is all of it encrypted so your ISP can't even see that your visiting 'CatMemes.meme' just an encrypted connection? So basically when using tor your ISP can't see anything that you're doing? Or can they still see some stuff?

Hello, so I have recently commited to buying paid version of antivirus system and I was using windows defender but it was useless so I switch to malwarebytes but my trial has expired. I dont know if to pay for their premium version which is good price or if there is any better antivirus software out there. Please help me because I have dealt with virus's before and I don't want them to happen again. Is malware-bytes a reputable company or is there anything better for around the same price? Thanks

Hey, So i'm thinking of buying this screen protector for my s7 edge : https://www.zagg.com/us/en_us/invisibleshield/samsung-galaxy-s7-edge/glass-curve-samsung-galaxy-s7-edge I know it's expensive but it's better than replacing the entire screen if i accidentally break it, the case is like edge to edge so only a few cases work with it and i'm if anyone what some of those cases are Cheers.

DISCLAIMER: This is NOT to tell people how to break into people's networks. This is to bring awareness as to why people shouldn't use the default password included with their TWC(Now Spectrum) ARRIS routers. With that in mind. Let me explain the purpose of this post. Ever since my parents upgraded to TWC(prior to Spectrum overtake) our new router the ARRIS TG1672G threw me for a loop when the credentials were: SSID: TG1672GF2 PSWD: TG1672G17B6F2 Right in there: TG1672G-17B6-F2, Effectively 17B6 IS the password the rest is the broadcasted SSID. This was bad because checking other peoples ARRIS routers they were identical except for the SSID and the exact four characters used. For example: SSID = S PW = P Everybody's wireless password followed the structure: SSSSSSSPPPPSS, The location of PPPP doesn't change between routers. They're all the same. This was bad. It meant someone could custom dictionary attack the network after intercepting the four-way handshake (not hard to do) then test every possible combination within PPPP which is 36^4 (0 - 9 then A - Z) that means of every single router configured this way there's only 1.68 million (rounded up) combinations. A low power laptop could check that many passwords in under a minute. It gets worse. One day while troubleshooting my Ubuntu 16.04 installation which REFUSED to connect to my home network for a dumb reason I noticed something while checking the routers MAC address: D4:05:98:17:B6:F0 Do you see that? Let me display the WiFi password side-by-side with the MAC address: WiFi PW: TG1672G17B6F2 MAC: D4:05:98:17:B6:F0 Look carefully, do you remember 17B6 being the only "secret" part of the WiFi password? Guess what. IT ISN'T!!! ARRIS PULLED IT FROM THE FREAKING MAC ADDRESS!!! HOW STUPID IS THAT!?! I tested this with 5 ARRIS routers including my own. All of them granted me access when I inserted the XX:XX:XX:PP:PP:XX (P is the password) section of the MAC address. There is a FREE software tool called ACRYLIC WiFi HOME which is a wireless network analyzing tool (not a packet sniffer). It tells you the: SSID MAC ADDRESS!!! RSSI (signal strength) Channel (channels being broadcasted on 1, 6, 11 or 5GHz channels) 802.11 standard (b, g, n, etc) Max speed WEP security (if applicable) WPA security (if applicable) WPA2 security (if applicable) WPS THE ROUTER VENDOR!!! and some other information. Key things here. MAC address & the router manufacturer. This means someone living next door or someone pulling up outside your house has all the information they need to get into your network and even WPA2-PSK (AES) encryption can't do ANYTHING to stop it. CHANGE YOUR WiFi PASSWORDS IF THEY'RE VERY SIMILAR TO YOUR SSID's AND IT'S AN ARRIS ROUTER!!! Anybody could take over your network, spy on you, steal your information or just strait up shut you down.

Hey Everyone, So recently bought a galaxy s7 edge and i love the phone and i plan on using it for a year or two, so i'm looking for way to protect the device, i already have a case for the back of the phone but that doesn't covert the screen so i looked up some Tempered Glass Scrren protectors and found these three to be the top results: https://www.ultimateshield.co.uk/collections/galaxy-s7-edge/products/samsung-galaxy-s7-edge-black-tempered-glass-screen-protector https://www.gpelstore.com/collections/galaxy-s7-edge-3d-hd-full-cover-glass-starting-30/products/galaxy-s7-edge-gs7-edge-full-coverage-corning-authentic-gorilla-glass-screen-protector?variant=25887544711 https://www.zagg.com/us/en_us/invisibleshield/samsung-galaxy-s7-edge/glass-curve-samsung-galaxy-s7-edge Now all these have 9H hardness and that's what i'm after , they also offer edge to edge protector so it covers the entire screen what i don't know is which one is the best, price isn't an issue i just want to protect the phone, any help at finding a solution will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Privacy is now a commodity. Congress has just voted to throw American's privacy rights out the windows95 with SJR34, "a resolution that allows Internet Service Providers to collect, and sell your sensitive data without your consent or knowledge". ~ https://www.gofundme.com/BuyCongressData?d=153161068 This effects all of us (whether you are from the US or not), the go fund me above was not started by me, but is the only immediate solution to this problem that we all face. Anyone that is well versed in preventing ISPs from collecting your data, please share your methods here.

Due to the recent outbreak of WannaCry, I have just purchaced an external hard drive and want to back up certain folders of important information onto it. I want to know if there is a way that I can plug it in weekly and have my computer back up the files onto the hard drive. If it matters, I am using Windows 10 and a Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive.

Hey guys, I want to protect an external HDD with a password, so people can borrow it and only the people with the password can get data off it. But i would like to protect it in a way that only i can change the password on the HDD. Hope you guys know a solution..

Just a question I'm throwing out there (on the off-chance that within the next 3 - 6 months we may be involved in a nuclear war with North Korea) but what would be the best method to shield your hard drives and/or entire computer system from EMP damage? Assuming the blast took place 100 - 200 miles away from your current location ( no thermal damage, no radiation ) what would be the best way to safeguard all your pictures, movies, games, and .. other stuff. If I couldn't protect my entire system, I'd just remove all the hard drives and store them in one of those small fireproof safes you get for storing valuables and important papers.

I am looking for a free antivirus software with high detection rate that doesn't impact system performance.

Hey all, currently I'm without power, along with half the city as a huge storm came and destroyed everything. Lights started to flicker like crazy, I immediately ran over to my PC, shut it down quickly and unplugged it. Now, I'm wanting buy some protection. Not my cup of tea, not sure what to look for. Found some good reviews on a Tripp lite surge protector. Otherwise I've heard a ups is better... But is it really? Just want something to protect it from that spike destroys electronics. My desktop at full load takes about 400-500w. Build is in signature. Have a budget of around $100, hopefully less. This is what I was looking at. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12-120-524 Any help would be terrific.

Hi I always see those people on social media who which begins like "If you don't ___ I'll leak your IP." etc. Luckily this has never happened to me, but I always feared it might. What are some ways I can protect myself from this (Confidently) Thank you!

Hey please direct me to the right topic if Im wrong here.. So heres my issue: While opening a new i5-6600 I found out, that there is no protective plastic cover for the thermal paste, like I am used to, on those CPUs. Thus the paste looks pretty dirty to me. Although it looks like a new environmental-friendly way of packaging, Id just like to have some confirmation on that. This shoud not turn into a discussion about how you shouldnt use stock heatsinks and I am well aware of some downsights this might have.

Hi. I'm wondering what the best applications are for antivirus, anti malware, and internet security are. I saw a video on Techquickie about a combination of antivirus and anti malware and thought I'd come here to ask the community of LinusTechTips. Processor: Intel Core i7-6850K RAM: 32 GB I'm not sure how much this can handle, but I think it can easily handle all three programs at the same while rendering 1080p videos and gaming at WQHD. Thanks.

So yesterday my PSU failed while playing some overwatch and turned off my computer completely. A strange burned plastic smell filled my room which then I located the smell coming from the PSU. When I tried turning it back on, all the lights on the motherboard and GPU lit up but would turn off immediately. The only way to get this response was to switch the PSU off and unplug it and then re-connect and turn it on. My question is if any of the other components in my PC potentially be damaged as well. If it helps my PSU has these protection installed OVP/OPP/OTP/SCP/OCP. Also I am going to buy a Seasonic Focus 550w 80+Gold to replace it. Is this a reliable PSU that will last a long time? Specs Motherboard- B350 tomahawk CPU- Ryzen 5 1600 GPU- GTX 1070ti PSU- Cooler Master 550w 80+ bronze certified Ram- G. Skill Ripjaws V 8gb (2X 4 GB) 3000MHz

Introduction There are many things you should look for on a PSU, and subjectively protections are one of the most important, if not the most important thing to look for. They will shut down the PSU down because of too much power, too much or too little voltage, short circuits or high temperatures. Here will be a breakdown of every protection. What they do, how they technically work and how important it is. Some terms used Protection IC= an integrated Circuit that monitors the PSU, integrating most, and in some cases all protections. ATX Standard= A standard set by Intel with all the requirements or recommendations for PSUs in regard of protections, voltage regulation, ripple and so on. Shunt resistor= a device which creates a low-resistance path for electric current, to allow it to pass around another point in the circuit. This way it can measure current Thermistor=A type of resistor whose resistance is dependent on temperature. OPP (Over Power Protection) Over Power Protection or OPP is a protection that will shut down the PSU when too much power is pulled, generally this is between 110 and 140% of the advertised wattage. This is a protection that works as a limit, shutting down when a certain point is reached, but doesn't actively monitors the amount of current. It's generally integrated into the PWM controller and is a crucial protection. It's required in ATX except if OCP is also there. OCP (Over Current Protection) Over Current Protection or OCP has the same purpose, but a different concept as OPP. OCP will generally be faster than OPP, since it uses shunt resistors to check the amount of current, and will shut down if a certain point is reached. OCP on 12v is generally only found on PSUs with multiple rails, since OPP can handle a single rail just fine. It's generally integrated into the protection IC combined with shunt resistors and is a recommended, but not required protection by ATX. OTP (Over Temperature Protection) Over Temperature Protection or OTP is a protection that protects the PSU against overheating with for example a fan failure. it's generally a thermistor combined with a protection IC that supports this, but there have also been cases where it was integrated into the fan controller. Most reviewers stop measuring after 200c, but it depends on the place the thermistor is integrated what recommended limits are. It's recommended until ATX 2.52, but since has been required. UVP (Under Voltage Protection) Under Voltage Protection or UVP is meant to shut down if voltage goes down too far. not only because a lot of components need a stable voltage, so you can have less correction on the VRM side, it's also there because OCP and OPP measure by how much current is going through, but not the voltage. so if the voltage drops down, the current can go higher, which can result in burnt cables or connectors. It's generally integrated into the protection IC, and recommended in the ATX standard, but required for a modern PSU in my eyes. OVP (Over Voltage Protection) Over voltage Protection or OVP works to a similar way as UVP, but the other way around. It checks the voltage on a rai that it isn't getting too high, so it can keep a safe height, and will shut down if it gets too high. It's generally integrated integrated into the protection IC and required by ATX standards. Voltages for OVP according to ATX spec Output Minimum (V) Nominal (V) Maximum (V) +12 VDC 13.4 15 15.6 +5 VDC 5.74 6.3 7 +3.3 VDC 3.76 4.2 4.3 5VSB 5.74 6.3 7 SCP (Short Circuit Protection) Short Circuit Protection or SCP measures the resistance on each rail, and will shut down when resistance is lower than 0.1 Ohms. Generally this goes combined with OPP, OCP, OVP and UVP. It's generally integrated into the protection IC, and is required on ATX spec, with separate circuits per rail. PWR_OK Signal The Power Good or PWR_OK signal is a delay signal to show if the PSU has enough energy stored for at least 17 ms under maximum load. This delay must be under 500ms, but is preferred below 250ms according to the ATX specification, but must be higher than 100ms. Verdict OPP is required, for when too much power is pulled. OCP is recommended, and is meant for the same thing. OTP is required since the most recent ATX specification when too high temperatures are reached. UVP is recommended by ATX, required by me for when voltage drops too low OVP is required by ATX for when voltage goes too far up. SCP is required for when resistance gets too little. PWR_OK is required to signal the PSU can still function right until the next one. Sources https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shunt_(electrical) https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193.html https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/guides/power-supply-design-guide-june.pdf

Okay, so. I have been carrying a gaming laptop as my daily driver for school for about 3 years now and the display has gotten a little bent from being in my backpack. I'm going to replace/upgrade my display and I want to get a backpack that will properly protect my laptop from more damage as the sleeve case I've been putting it in wasn't enough. I want my stuff to last at least 5-6 more years and I'm looking for recommendations. The offerings from HP seem a little lacking in rigid protection in what I can see from online. https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-pavilion-tech-backpack https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-executive-156-backpack

Greetings everyone I figure off topic is the perfect place for this post sorry in advance I'm sure someone has already been through this So I guess my question here is obvious. Is it possible to make your home network harder to hack into? I know little to nothing about hacking / cyber security, I just know how easy it is for people who do know as I've seen them do it in front of me. *Is there any way of stopping a ddos attack if your on the receiving end ? a program or software ?? *And with the modem / router is there any way to make it harder to hack ? I mean the people I've seen took about a whole minute if that??

Hey everyone! First of all - sorry if I posted this in the wrong spot. (newb to the forums here..) I've watched the channel for years now and I always love it! Straight to the point - I travel a lot internationally. I built a small form factor PC (Node 202), that I can fit in my backpack and take with me everywhere I go. On airplanes as a carry on, on a bus across country etc.. A lot of times I end up on the coast near the ocean. Within 3 to 6 months being near the ocean - my brand new motherboard developed rust spots. It has yet to effect it in anyways that I can tell with my daily use. Though there may be parts of the motherboard not functioning and I just haven't realized. My father has been through 3 laptops in 5 years because of the rust/salt where he lives on the coast. Everyone who lives near a coast has this problem. Yet nobody really talks about how it can be prevented. So my question or idea for a video is - What can we use to put a protective layer on our motherboards/hardware to prevent rust? Plasti-dip? What about a simple silicone spray? Some silicone sprays may be conductive but others may not. Silicone would be anti-rust and hydrophobic. Salt is carried by the humidity in the air. If you can make your motherboard hydrophobic you prevent salt and rust build up. So which method would be best for protecting your hardware for long-term use in more extreme conditions? I'd love for you to test it on one of your motherboards before I blow up mine. lol Maybe a quick "how-to" apply the protective layer at the end. Which brand of silicone spray could you use? Which one would be dangerous/conductive? etc.. Thats my video idea/request! Thank you so much for your time and hard work guys!