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Hi, looking for assistance in forcing laptop to "remember" to output to External Monitor upon boot, with no internal display connected. Laptop AORUS X7 DT V7 GTX 1070 Intel i7-7820HK Display Outputs: HDMI 2.0, Mini DisplayPort 1.3, Thunderbolt 3 Internal Display: 1440p / 144hz, 40-pin LVDS Ribbon cable. Internal Display is broken. I'm trying to have the laptop to boot and output display to an External Monitor only. With the internal display disconnected, the laptop will not display output to External Monitor. When the internal display IS connected, only then can the laptop output display to the External Monitor. Once into Win10, I can set display output to "Second Screen Only" and then disconnected the internal display. But if the laptop is turned off, the internal display has to be connected before turning on. Only then in Win10 can I change the output back to "Second Screen Only". Things I've tried that don't work: In Win10, Notification Tray >> Project, selecting "Second Screen Only". Upon boot, it seems like this isn't remembered with internal display disconnected. Used different cables: HDMI-to-HDMI, DisplayPort-to-MiniDP, HDMI-to-Thunderbolt. None work when connected to External Monitor only; Internal Display still must be connected before boot. Used a different monitor. Check BIOS to find display settings. Settings doesn't exist. Disabled/Uninstalled internal display drivers Can I enter BIOS with only External Monitor connected? Yes, I can enter the BIOS. But when booting Win10, laptop will not output display to External Monitor if Internal Display is not connected. Repair the Internal Display/Ribbon Cable instead? This is a Frankenstein project. I want to say Windows 10 is the problem here because laptop can boot into BIOS and output to External Display. It is only upon booting into Windows 10 that the External Display sleeps, thus laptop is attempting to find its internal display if not connected. Thanks, and any help is appreciated.

Just genuinely looking for something to do so here is a list of horrid ideas I've had so people can vote which they would like to see me follow up on in detail, i have way too much time on my hands. 1: run a Minecraft/jellyfin server on a ps4 2:barbeque Sause thermal paste (still debating mentally, some dude told me to use mayonnaise or musterd so why not sweet baby rays) 3: speed test a 14 year old wifi card (ripped from hp netbook from 2010) 4: install an SSD in a Pentium system to revive it still coming up with horrid ideas, but feel free to tell me what a bad person I am for coming up with these.

I recently bought a BC-250 server blade as a project to play around with and I'm a bit at a loss, the software compatibility overall is pretty terrible, most Linux distributions not even booting up their installers properly, I managed to get Ubuntu server 20.04 running and I even managed to get the graphics drivers to install, which hadn't worked on Ubuntu desktop 20.04 or the newest version but even there the initialization failed, I've been wanting to get it running games to help make some mining hardware not ewaste but I've run into a bit of a brick wall and any help would be appreciated. I'm trying out some other Linux distributions while I write this to see if they have any luck Tldr It's a bc250, it uses a cut down Ariel/Oberon chip with a cyan skillfish GPU section. Windows drivers flat out don't exist as far as I can tell and the Linux ones don't seem to work, the furthest I've gotten is various states of failed initialization in Ubuntu server and would appropriate help from anyone who might be knowledgeable with the hardware or Linux in general. Thanks!

Hi guys! I’ve recently been gifted an unbranded, Chinese headunit. I haven’t yet connected it to my car, but I’m almost certain that it’s the PODOFO Q3508. It most likely isn’t the PODOFO Q3570, which supports Carplay. As I really want Carplay, I thought that I might turn this situation into a fun project. So I want to add wireless Carplay to the device that I have. This is my current plan: The headunit supports wired MirrorLink with touch and audio passthrough for Android Phones. So I can buy a cheap Android phone which supports OTG. Then I can buy a USB hub for phones, with external charging and OTG for data transfer, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TUSITA-Adaptor-Charging-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00LTHBCNM I can then add this CarlinkIt adapter into the mix: https://www.carlinkit.store/products/carlinkit-usb-dongle-wireless-carplay-android-auto-box-wired-mirrorlink-for-aftermarket-android-screen-car-multimedia-player-bluetooth-auto-connect And lastly, I can connect it all together. The hub would be connected to the phone. Into it I’d plug charging from the cigarette lighter, a USB cable from the headunit for MirrorLink and a CarlinkIt adapter. I’d also install the necessary app. The phone should charge and the data should transfer properly between the devices. Now I should be able to connect via Bluetooth with the Android phone. The phone would open Carplay in the app. I’d then be able to display and control the app through MirrorLink. However, besides being pretty bonkers, this plan may have issues: The USB port from the headunit sends a charge into the phone (I think). If I turn the switch on my little hub to charging mode, then the charge will be sent into the headunit. Won’t things fry in that scenario, or todays electronics are capable of handling that? The headunit supports microphone input. However, if my iPhone will never be connected to the headunit itself, but to the Android phone, the mic won’t work, right? What should I connect the mic into then, the hub or the iPhone? I’ve seen MirrorLink behave overly ‚securely’ on YouTube and turning off basic apps like maps during driving. Is that possible to happen here too? Is there anything else I should consider? I need your help in checking my plan and its issues. I want to identify potential issues before I spend a lot of money on this project. Also if anyone here has attempted anything similar then sharing your experiences would be awesome. Alternative plan: I can politely ask the support team of Podofo for their latest firmware and software and hopefully be able to flash it to this device, but I think that receiving the files has a chance of 20% and another 20% of not bricking my headunit. I don’t think I can do anything else. Sophisticated methods like a separate device that supports Carplay, being connected into the headunit’s display directly, probably won’t work because the unit doesn’t have the video input (except for the reverse camera, which I want to use). I attached the connections below. Huge thanks in advance!

Hello LTT forums, I live in France and I'm sharing with this community a project that was proposed by multiple "intervenants" (people who teach us subjects at school) to us who are in a apprenticeship school Our current state in IT infrastructure is limited, meaning only the basics are given to us (access to internet, power and school outlook) The direction has approved of this project with others of the head of our school to engange to deploy a IT infrastructure for our needs in education Since most of us are students, and we learn computer technology, we have to bring our own laptops capable to do emulation (vmware workstation, cisco packet tracer & more) Some of our tutors have been happily discarding their old IT equipement to this project (dell / HPE servers, cisco switches, etc) instead of recycling them or throwing them away. We already have an agreement where we can install a 25u rack with the servers given to us, We would like to host a primary vsphere server that would be for administration, and two secondary ones for the students and teachers to access remotely This would enable the "intervenants" / teachers to prepare in advance courses for classes on subjects of virtualisation or networking, and would also enable us students to connect on the network to discover the technology What would you recommend?

So I am building a pc in mid-February and I am using it for an EPQ project for college I am writing a document for it on how I went about picking my parts, why I am doing it eta eta its a bit of waffling but its free ucas points. oh and I'm gonna be comparing it to prebuilt pcs on the market. so i was wondering of anyone would be able to help me with guidance and proofreading of my document at certain points. thanks for the help in advance. p.s Here is my part list of what I'm going to be building (need to decide on fans) https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/GCr4PF

Hello, we recently got these in at work from a retiring user, and i saw the desktop speakers and were intrigued by the desktop sitting drivers. They are Planar magnetic speakers, which I heard are usually supposed to be pretty good ( I'm not super familiar so i could be wrong). So i was thinking about using the the desktop speakers and pairing them with a newer amp. Here's where this post come in, it's got RCA cables to connect it to the amp. I need some suggestions on how I should go about getting these working. Do I get a amp that will work with it, or do i try to convert it to speaker wire by just stripping them. The stripping from what I read it might not be the best idea because of the resistance of the cables, which concerns me I don't want these to sound like garbage/ melt cables. Should I take them apart and swap it straight to speaker wire ? If anyone has experience with this I would be very appreciative! Pic i found of them online.

For a very long time I was planning on designing my own fan controller, and I'm finally doing it. I want to release the design as open-source/open-hardware so anyone could use it and benefit from it. Now with that said, I want this project to be driven by the community. This means that my goal for this project is to design something will be: Helpful / Useful - you can use it to solve a problem, or improve the quality / reliability Open - Design must be fully transparent and well documented. This way new features and integrations can be easily implemented. Accessible - Anyone should be able to order parts or kits and put them together without the need for special or expensive equipment. Affordable - Components are relatively inexpensive and/or can be excluded if they are not necessary for the build (ie. Don't need buzzer, OLED, RGB controller etc) Features that I have in mind for now are: Programmable FAN profiles (i.e. when temperature reaches X, set fan 1/2/3/4/all to Y%, when X app is running turn all fans to max or set fans to 20% during night time but only if temperature is below 40C and so on) Individual FAN speed control Support for 3-pin and 4-pin fans Temperature sensors (you can place them anywhere and use them as triggers when programming) Current sense (sens how much current each fan is drawing. Could be useful to detect fan stall, broken fan or even when over time there is a lot of dust on the blades) RPM sense (additional data point that over-time, combined with other parameters, could give more information about fan health and efficiency) Programmable and Open-Source (end user must be able to easily reprogram/update the device over USB) Buzzer (audio feedback. Can be used if fan failure, stall, high temperature or other problem is detected. Also user must be able to turn this feature on/off) Parts and components must be easily available and reasonable (end user should be able to order individual parts and assemble the thing as they see fit for their case/mod. No unicorn horns or pixie dust allowed. ) OLED support (you can connect OLED to display any information on the screen) RGB controller (you can connect RGB strip to control it) WS2812B controller (you can connect WS2812b strip, which is basically RGB strip but individually addressable) Robust and reliable (goes without saying but this has to be robust and reliable solution) These are some of the basic features that I would like to develop. This is just a draft from my head, but I think you get the idea of where I'm going, and I would really appreciate your input and feedback. Also if this is something that you are passionate about too or want to contribute in any way shape or form, let's collaborate. And as a final note, a word about me; I'm an electronics engineer/consultant with years of experience. In my free time I love to work on fun and interesting projects and share them with the community. I absolutely love sharing my projects (at the least ones that I'm allowed to) and find this to be very satisfying because I feel like I'm contributing back to the community. And most importantly I'm someone who is really passionate about tech, computers, engineering and open-source / open-hardware community. [Mods] I hope this message is appropriate and not in conflict with any forum rules. If there is a better place for this post, please move it as you best see fit. I would really like to get the LTT community involved in this project and guiding it with their feedback, suggestions and collaboration.

Good whenever and wherever! I am currently working on a project where I create a handheld retro games console out of an old phone, however one of my personal requirements be that I can use physical games from consoles like DSI/3DS, however the only solution I've found to read these carts on PC is the "R4i Save Dongle", this is not really a great option as the only documentation on it anywhere is recorded poorly and dates back to windows 2000 being it's only compatible software. I have a couple of spare DSI's I'd be willing to take apart if someone (hopefully more knowledgeable than me) would help me reverse engineer the cartridge reader so that I may convert it to usb Cheers from the Rockies!

Hey can anyone help me with a pos device. I have a spare pax global A50 which runs a lockdown version of Android. It only runs a single payment app but at starting it shows Android load screen and then load the software.A50_EN_20230217_Contactless_EMEA.pdf I have tried many softwares like paydroid and box light. Paydroid didn't work for me or the version I can't make it work and box light a software I saw on a YouTube video I was unable to find. I have accidentally triggered the anti temper detection so I think flashing a fresh install is my only option. It works like a normal Android phone by pressing volume up and power button it shift into "firmware download mode" a fast boot with proprietary crap. And I know salvaging this device is not worth it but it will be the first pos to run doom.

Just finished building the most transparent pc I could build with just using basic tools. No cnc or laser. Some metal bars and some 2mm plexiglass. The goal was to see everything inside working and give it best airflow possible while keeping it water splash proof. I flipped the backside of the motherboard upwards so I don't have to be with limited front panel setup. Also it allowed me to have two different front so I can take fresh air for both cpu aio and gpu. And as a bonus I got rid of the gpu sagging issue. Before in a cooler master case 3090 gpu vram temp was reaching 105, now it's 90. Was on a tight budget, so had to use leftover plexiglass from another project, that's why so many joints. Also reused 2 fan from dead psu. Hope you guys like it. VID-20230618-WA0015.mp4

Hello everyone! I'm conducting a research study for my MBA project, and I need your help! The aim of my study is to compare different work week arrangements, including 4 days, 5 days, 6 days, and other work schedules. By collecting data from individuals who are currently employed, I hope to gain insights into their preferences, experiences, and perceptions of different work week arrangements. Your participation in this survey will contribute to our understanding of work-life balance and job satisfaction. Your feedback is valuable and will help me analyze and draw meaningful conclusions. So, if you have a job, I would greatly appreciate it if you could spare a few minutes to fill out my survey using the link provided. Thank you in advance for your support This is the link https://forms.gle/SbeQiqHge6HeLfUFA

How SREs Solve Problems at Home (Making my Dumb Fridge Smart) 07 Mar 2021 Pretext This is a story partially about laziness but the weird kind of laziness where, instead of doing the thing, you decide to do something completely different and more convoluted that ends up taking way more time because you can’t be bothered to do the thing. In this instance, the thing is fixing my fridge (though I would argue it shouldn’t be my responsibility to do that, I rent and my landlord should have fixed this when it became an issue months ago but oh well). My Fridge is Broken My fridge, being manufactured in 2003, is old enough to vote. I learned that my fridge was broken by opening the attached freezer on top and looking at a puddle in my ice bin. While this was a useful signal to notice something was wrong with my fridge, I didn’t know what was wrong or how I could fix it. Chatting with my landlord, he mentioned “the previous tenant had a similar issue and whenever it happened, they would cut power to the fridge and wait about 15 minutes and then turn it back on”. For context, the freezer and fridge share a compressor in models like this: Well, at least now I had a remediation step to take, so I gave it a shot and don’t you know, it worked perfectly! Problem solved! …Not really though, unless I want to be checking on my ice bin hourly to know if I needed to power cycle it, I needed another solution. At this point a normal person might consider trying to repair the fridge or hiring someone to do as much, but it’s been over a month since the fridge technician made his house call and there has been no follow-up while the issue persists. So I hopped on amazon and started to solve the problem the only way I know how: with metrics and automated remediation! The Metric For this problem, there are several metrics we could consider. Initially, my metric was looking in the ice bin to see if it was melting (if it was, this would lead to it all refreezing once the compressor started up again turning my cubes into a giant chunk of ice). While this metric works well for me (a human) it also catches the problem too late (the ice has already begun to melt meaning the freezer is over 32F) and it is harder to measure with a computer (maybe a trained computer vision model could learn to see melting ice differently from non-melting ice but that’s a bit more than I signed up for). The solution I settled upon was to monitor the temperature inside the freezer with a bluetooth thermometer probe (though another way could be something like monitoring power draw at the wall of the fridge). I picked up the cheap bluetooth thermometer here for around $15 and set to work installing the app and checking it regularly. This let me observe temperatures that the freezer oscillates between during normal operation and what it looks like when the temperature begins to run away: As you can see, the temperature sits somewhere from 2.5F to 12F regularly and occasionally spikes during weird events. Clearly in the image shown the spike was halted by the system I’m about to build in this blog. So we have a metric and graph viewable in an app. Let’s grab some random FOSS project that can talk to these weird thermometers over bluetooth and slap in in a Raspberry Pi. Gathering Data To interface with the thermometer, instead of using the weird limited app I wondered if someone else had taken a crack at talking to this device directly and it turns out they did! I found a project called Inkbird and forked it to twist to my nefarious purposes of making my fridge smart. In a nutshell, this is a node.js project that utilizes the noble BLE module to talk to Inkbird thermometers. Though this code was written for a previous version, so I had to modify one of the constants to scan BLE devices and filter for the correct device name. I found the right name through experimenting with a bluetooth scanning app on my phone and opening and closing the freezer door to see which device jumped in signal when it opened. I wrote a loop that connects to the thermometer once a minute to avoid killing its battery prematurely. It grabs one datapoint containing a temperature and battery level reading and then disconnects. It then exposes the program state via a JSON API endpoint with Express. An abbreviated form of the final product can be found below: const IBS_TH1 = require("./ibs_th1"); const log4js = require("log4js"); const logger_ = log4js.getLogger(); logger_.level = "info"; const device = new IBS_TH1(); let state = { connecting: false, gotData: false, waitCount: 60, //... }; let sensorState = { temps: [], battery: 0, lastUpdated: new Date().toString("en-US"), }; const callback = (data) => { logger_.debug( `Current Temp: ${data.temperature.toFixed(2)}°F -` + ` Battery: ${data.battery}%` ); sensorState.battery = data.battery; if (sensorState.temps.length > 60) { sensorState.temps.shift(); } sensorState.temps.push(data.temperature.toFixed(3)); sensorState.lastUpdated = new Date().toString("en-US"); state.gotData = true; device.unsubscribeRealtimeData(); logger_.debug("Disconnecting from sensor"); }; const dutyLoop = function () { //... if (!state.connecting && state.waitCount >= 60) { device.subscribeRealtimeData(callback); logger_.debug("Connecting to sensor"); state.connecting = true; } else if (!state.connecting) { state.waitCount++; } else { if (state.gotData) { state.gotData = false; state.waitCount = 0; state.connecting = false; } } }; logger_.info("Starting duty loop..."); setInterval(dutyLoop, 1000); Metric Monitoring and Heuristics This code as written will build a running log of the past 60 minutes of one-per-minute measurements of freezer temperature, and track the current battery life of the sensor. To enhance it we want to add some kind of heuristic to determine if the freezer is too warm. We can do that by setting a trigger temperature and then a number of minutes the freezer must be above that temperature to trigger the alarm. We also want to add an alarm cooldown so we don’t trigger once a minute while the freezer temp is rising. Since even if we kick in remediation it can take some time to drop the temps back down. So we’ll add these variables to state: let state = { //... triggerTemp: 20, triggerMinutes: 5, lastPowerReset: new Date(0), cooldownMin: 60, powerCycleWaitTime: 15, } Nice, now we want to add the heuristic to our loop by grabbing the last triggerMinutes worth of measurements from sensorState.temps and checking if all of them are over the triggerTemp. const dutyLoop = function(){ // Evaluate state const now = new Date(); if (now - state.lastPowerReset > state.cooldownMin * 60000) { if ( sensorState.temps .slice(-state.triggerMinutes) .filter((temp) => temp > state.triggerTemp).length >= state.triggerMinutes ) { logger_.info( `Freezer has been over trigger temp of (${state.triggerTemp}F) for at least (${state.triggerMinutes}) minutes.` ); if (now - state.lastPowerReset > state.triggerMinutes * 60000) { logger_.info( `Resetting fridge power, last reset was at (${state.lastPowerReset.toLocaleString( "en-US" )})` ); state.lastPowerReset = now; // Remediate the problem... } } } //... } Finally, we need to somehow remediate the problem. Automated Remediation We know that powering the fridge off and waiting about 15 minutes and turning it back on seems to remediate the issue. Do I know why that works? No. Do I need to know in order to fix it? Also no. But we can simply automate the power cycling to make this problem fix itself. All I need to do is power off the fridge, wait 15 minutes, and turn it on, but from code. As a bit of background I wrote this home automation API in Go a couple months ago which talks to Philips Hue, Belkin WeMo, and Tasmota IOT devices through different protocols and gives me the ability to control them at will and with automation. The interesting bits for this project are the SetStateHandler which can be found here. This code allows me to set the power state of a given Tasmota outlet connected to a MQTT broker in my apartment. I hacked up some old Gosund ESP8266 based WiFi Smart Plugs and installed Tasmota on them with the aid of TuyaConvert which allows you to OverTheAir upgrade some off-the-shelf IOT devices. It is worth knowing that some of the recent Gosund units I’ve bought from Amazon have updated firmware that is harder to flash and until recently I wasn’t able to update them until the TuyaConvert project managed to crack some of their newer security features for OTA updates. So we have an API in my home that allows me to talk to an outlet and make it turn on and off, so the last thing to do is integrate it into the temperature tracking code. We’ll use Axios to make a JSON POST request to the API as required. const axios = require("axios"); const setFridgeState = function (desiredState) { axios .post(process.env.OUTLET_URL, { apiKey: process.env.OUTLET_API_KEY, device: process.env.OUTLET_DEVICE_NAME, powerState: desiredState, }) .then((res) => { logger_.info( `Successfully set fridge to state (${desiredState}): `, res.data ); }) .catch((err) => { logger_.error(`Failed to set fridge to state (${desiredState}): `, err); }); }; Now we can invoke the setFridgeState function from our heuristic code to turn off the fridge and use the powerCycleWaitTime variable to tell it how long to wait before turning the fridge back on. const dutyLoop = function(){ //... // Remediate the problem... state.lastPowerReset = now; setFridgeState("off"); setTimeout(() => { logger_.info( `Powering fridge back on after (${state.powerCycleWaitTime}) minutes...` ); setFridgeState("on"); }, state.powerCycleWaitTime * 60000); //... } Conclusion We now have a system that detects when the metric is over a threshold for a specified period of time, triggers a remediation step to bring the metric back under the threshold, and then cools down before trying to remediate again. Or in normal terms: if the freezer is getting too warm we turn the fridge off and wait 15 minutes and turn it back on. But we don’t try this more than once in an hour to let the compressor do its work. The full source code can be found here, but I hope nobody is in a situation where you have to use it. This was a fun project that let me use tools from the SRE toolbox to solve an everyday problem and the best part is that it actually works! The compressor didn’t turn on last night around 1:30 AM and the system recognized it before the freezer got to 30F and corrected it without any weird bugs! I now no longer have to worry about food spoiling in the fridge overnight because the fridge forgot to cool things. One more thing I might consider adding to the system is a notification to my email when a remediation attempt is made so I can see if this problem is getting worse or if there might be an issue with the code if it tries to remediate at high frequency. Please note that all of this code for this project is really just duct taped together to fix my fridge and not representative of the code I typically write on “important” projects. The gohome code is a bit more polished so go look at that instead. The total Bill of Materials for the project was around $50 including one Gosund outlet, one Raspberry Pi 3B+, and one Inkbird IBS-TH2. That’s all folks, thanks for reading. Eric V Note: The contents of this post are from my blog and have been copied to fit this forum page.

( sorry for my english btw) I started a project this week. I was looking for a laptop but there s just overated dogshit on the market right now so i decide to kind of create one. It's actualy some desktop hardware in a freaking Nice nanuk plastic green case ( i already love it ). I scavenged my old rig to get some part and bought a mini itx mobo to fit in it. Saldly, i overestimated the space in the case so im starting to run low on it and on my budget too. Is there a kind of external psu i could use like for a real laptop with a round connector outside the case or something like that ?

Hi everyone. A few weeks ago I watched this one video on YouTube where a Grad student was able to project a Wallpaper Engine background onto his wall, using some sort of projector / software, without the actual use of a projector. I remember the video mentioning a HDMI or Displayport cable being used to actual feed the signal from his PC into the wall, where they had setup some sort of backdrop i.e. whiteboard / projector screen. No TVS / Monitors were actually used. Does anyone have some sort of Idea or could point me in the right direction for this type of setup? It looked really cool and I was thinking of placing a New York Window Skyline 4-8k resolution as a live wallpaper from Wallpaper Engine onto it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8GptHQ0W2U&t=403s&ab_channel=LinusTechTips In this video by LTT, where they attempt to build a comparative bluetooth speaker to a LG solution, Linus mentions a 2 inch subwoofer. Do these actually exist? Because i too would like to try my hand at making a portable speaker, but am having no luck finding one. I'm not sure if this is the right section of the forum, but Linus always says that the forums are helpful, so i figured I'd give it a shot

Hi. I’m looking for some no-code app building software. It needs to have these features: iOS/iPadOS Android Website In-App Purchases Free trial And obviously I would like all of this as cheap as possible. There are so many of them and so many reviews, it’s kind of overwhelming. Any experience with them would also be great. Thanks for any insight.

Hi, I know that the title may not be the best description of what I'm trying to accomplish but hear me out. Me and few friends decided that we are going to have a competition in building the best autonomous racing robot. Our goal is to build a large obstacle course, set a general route through it and let our robots make the most efficient and fastest path while avoiding obstacles. All of this is supposed to happend outdoors in area which size equates to around 100 m2. We are not complete noobies in making autonomous stuff and all have experience in machine learning, small electronics , motors etc. But one thing we disagree about is the requirements for our outside navigation systems. We are having trouble choosing between normal cameras,stereo cams, lidar, gps, ultrasonic sensors, all of those?? Even tho our project is complicated we are still trying to keep our costs down. So I'm looking for an advice from someone with more experience. What combinations or a singular part should we choose as our navigation+obstacle detection system for our project? I'm really looking forward to your answers. Thank you.

Hi guys, I'm looking to create a complete offline version of Wikipedia on one of my servers at work. Already have the ~30GB version which doesn't include web links or images and would like to attempt to download the complete version somehow (expecting this to be in the region of 5-10TB). Does anyone know if this is possible and how I could go about doing it? :) Kind regards, Jimmy

so more specific, I'm trying to make my xpen artist 12 fully wireless, i already have power and wireless HDMI sorted, but I'm having a issue as I need to convert its usb output to wireless, so i can send the pen signals to the pc without a cable, but im running to a issue, that being that wireless usb adapters dont really exist, ive found 2, and of the 2 one is only compatible with windows xp, the other it seems is impossible to find the whole set, the set being the unlimited cables USB-wr2000, i have only benable to find the dongle receiver part of it, and i was wondering if anyone either had a set they would be willing to part with or if you guys had any other options or ideas for wirelessly transmitting the usb signal, this is less of a serious project and more so for fun, any replies or help is much appreciated.

I hit my college final sem but I don't know what is project is? That why I'm here to know please tell me what is a project and how it could be