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After repasting my old laptop (lenovo y700) with thermal grizzly hydronaut, it works fine for a couple of days and temps are awesome, after a week or so of heavy gaming gpu temps start to rise until it throttles. I open the laptop and I notice that thermal paste on the gpu is stting on side with the other side barely covered (pics), tried to reapply it works fine for another week then it happens again.

I wanna get 3 case fans to use as front intakes and the use the stock fans as rear and top exhaust. Would arctic p12 or arctic f12 be better?

The Prodigy M case features an unusual setup since I'm used to dealing with standard mid-tower ATX cases. I'm not sure how I should set up my fans in here, or if I even need that many case fans. Main concern is which direction of air flow should I set my CPU cooler? It's a be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3. I've seen air flow diagrams that show the problem can be easily solved by using a liquid cooling setup, but I've already acquired this air cooler, and have decided to stick with it. Setup A: Positive pressure This is my original plan, aiming for cool air intake for the CPU heatsinks. All case fans would be used for intake, including the rear case fan to provide more cool air intake for the CPU heatsink, even if the air enters the heatsink half way through its flow. Top intake fans are pretty much a given, since the GPU will be upside down as per case design. The fans will have to be high static pressure fans, and the exhaust would be any opening without a fan, which would be the front above the PSU, and expansion slot areas. Setup B: Balanced pressure The tradeoff for balanced pressure is the intake for the CPU fans would be the warmed up air from the GPU. As for the case fan at the rear, I'm not sure how that's gonna go, but I'd guess it'd be intake just to give the CPU cooler at least some cool air as intake. Setup C: Rotate CPU heatsink I could also rotate the heatsink, but I'm not sure exactly what to do to have that optimized.

Hey everyone, After last weeks post i'm back with yet another problem i can't seem to solve. I hope you guys can help me and can spare some time reading my sorrows (TL;DR at the bottom). Last week i revamped my build into a new case with some new coolers. I went from a Antec P280 (love this case because of the room), and a H100i, to a Cooler Master Mastercase 6 and a NZXT Kraken X62. Also i replaced my dual 120mm Scythe Static pressure fans to triple 140MM Corsair AF140's as intakes. I am running these specs: Motherboard: Asus Maximus VII Formula CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K (stock speeds) MEM: 32GB Corsair vengeance pro 2400MHZ DDR3 Video: 2x Asus GTX1080TI strix OC (stock speeds) SSD: Samsung Pro 850 256GB HDD: 2x Western Digital Black 3TB The problem: It cools like shite!....... Let me clarify: idle temps CPU are around 38 degrees. idle temps GPU's around 40 degrees celcius. On load the CPU (aida64) will stay around 60 degrees, but when i do something like furmark or as simple like WoW my GPU's will heat up to around (GPU1) 87/88 degrees celcius and (GPU2) around 75 degrees. The whole setup will thermaltrottle by around 200+ mhz and the system becomes loud as hell with everything kicking into higher gear. Cooling situation: i had 3 AF140MM as intakes at fixed RPM, thinking that would do the job since i removed all the drive cages. A 4th AF140MM sits in the back as an exhaust. In the top of the case i have my X62 in pull config with stock NZXT SP fans pulling out air. I rather would've set the CPU cooling to push instead of pull, but seeing as the case can't house that with a 280MM rad in the top i had to switch around the fans. With that config i first ran into WoW BSODing in SLI on the nvidia chip. Also total war warhammer crashes due to overheating. It also doesnt matter if i switch my main GPU from top to bottom (differs around 2 degrees on the maincard). Also in furmark it started thermal throttling after like 3 minutes of load. What i have tried so far: Feeling around in the case i noticed that the AF140's wouldn't create much airflow, air just sat in the front of the case and stayed there, or would've been pulled out of the top. Reading online i came across multiple article's that stated that airflow fans work best in absolute obstruction free situations. Seeing as i dont have my drive cages in, but i do have a dust filter from top to bottom behind the intake grill, i thought that would be my problem just there. I ordered 3 Noctua NF-A14 PWM instead and hoped my problems would dissapear. I read these fans work miracles on rad configs but also work well as case intake fans. Today my order came in and i fitted them straight away. Next up i set a fan curve and started benching. To my surprise my CPU idle temps when up by 2 degrees? And if that wasn't worse enough, my temps on the videocards stayed the same as with the AF140's! Also changing the fan curve or fan speed of the intake fans doesn't change anything. What i think the problem is: I think that air is being pulled over the videocards instead through them. Also since my cards are blower style cards, hot air just cycles around them and is being taken in. I believe the lack of airflow, or statuc pressure, is why hot air is being trapped down in the case (this is where im not sure anymore). Or that the fans just wont reach the back of the case due to lack of outtake power. I felt the airflow in the case and its very strong in the front of the case but starts to feel weak half way. Also if i feel between the videocards i feel that the air is kinda strong at the back of the cards but doesnt reach to the end of the case. TL;DR Question: How can i improve air cooling my GPU's (mainly) with the tools that i have, and are my CPU temps also too warm given the AIO cooler? Or is my situation impossible given the setup i have and running SLI in this case? I just feel that too many variables temp wise are wrong. Thanks alot for reading and your help. Every bit is most welcome as im pulling out my hair right now. P.S. i added some pictures of my setup to help imagine the situation.

I did a stupid mistake and installed my cpu cooler (arctic freezer i11) the wrong way. so instead of reinstalling it I decided that I will turn the rear exhust fan into an intake (so the cpu fan gets fresh air from outside). temps have dropped a little. now my current situation is: front and rear (both 120mm fans) are intake top (2x120 mm fans) is exhust. my question is: is it good in terms of pressure? or should I just turn the rear back to exhaust and just reinstall the cooler in the proper direction?

Hello! I wanted suggestions for value pressure optimized fans for a normal 240 radiator(noctua are too expensive). I have in mind the bitfenix spectre pro 120s, and the corsair sp120s. Are there any other quality fans that aren't very expensive? Do you have any experience using them? Thanks a lot!

Buy Fractal Design Define R5 on Amazon: http://geni.us/TbOYJ Is there a meaningful difference between air pressure configurations in your PC case? Luke investigates...

I am thinking of getting myself 360 rediator. Whatis gona happen if I combine static pressure and airflow fans in push-pull. Has anybody tested it?

I'm looking to put fans into my case, currently only have the free one that came with my case. I understand the difference between static pressure fans and airflow fans, but don't know which work best for case fans. Is it okay if I put airflow optimized intake fans in the front of the case, or with the front panel make it hard for those fans to get air, and if so should I put static pressure fans there instead. Thanks for the help.

Hi! My H500P Mesh just arrived and as I am transplanting all the components into the new case, I was wondering where and if at all I should put some of my old fans I have. These would be 2 be quiet! Pure Wings 2 120mm. Spare place is only at the top, but I was wondering if I should put them as intake or outtake, or at all. Dust is quite a problem here, so I think creating negative air pressure could be bad. Would be cool to get suggestions soon, as I will continue building in a bit cheers

I want to discuss this because it could be a valuable tool for someone who is not clear when choosing fans for a certain case. This way all they would need to know is how much air they need to move against the volume of the case they choose. From there they can choose size and number with relation to the aesthetic they are aiming for. Here is the question. Mid towers with a basement usually have less than 1 CF of volume within the space where the motherboard and their components would be. Not taking into account restrictions like stacked mesh filters and restrictive front panels. I believe having a 60 CFM fan on intake as well as exhaust should be sufficient to replace the volume of air within the case every second. Or at least that's what the math tells me ( on a case with 1cubic foot of volume ). It sounds too good to be true in my opinion, there must be something I'm missing. Now the second question is this. If I have two fans on intake, not stacked both with 60 cfm of airflow. I have one fan on exhaust with the same 60 cfm of airflow. To my understanding I'm still only pushing 60 cfm on intake as well as exhaust. Although I have read that this could be slightly more, something like 80 CFM.

Couple days ago I build my first loop. It works fairly well, but it's ugly as hell, I made a lot of mistakes, so I already planned to rebuild it at coming weekend. My idea was to build cheap loop, but without performance compromises. To do that, I sacrificed aesthetics and quietness. And it worked out, almost. As you might expect I bought most of my parts from Aliexpress (except rad and some fittings). And fans too. I thought, that instead of buying cheap mediocre fans at my city, it better to buy cheap but powerful fans from Ali. So, i ended up with 3 server 120mm dual ball bearing Delta server fans for 15 bucks. 3800 rpm and 80+ CFM. What could have gone wrong?? I was not worried about noise, because I already had quite noisy system and I always used headphones (I rent room in apartment, so...). But after I plugged all up and start my PC, it was like i was near starting jet plane. And even headphones with thrash metal on max volume doesn't help. I predicted, that this fans will be noisy, but i hoped, that I put them at a half power and noise will be acceptable. And I did so. But in that case I can't use all that sweet CFM of that fans. And now I looking for decent replacement. So, my questions is: 1. As I understand, pressure optimized fans will be better. But how much better? In ideal case, without consideration of noise. Just two fans, one airflow optimised and have greater CFM and second one pressure optimized. 2. What models do you recommend? Without noise consideration, for that exist PWM. And with maximising performance per dollar. Many models don't sell in my country, but nonetheless. (may be this thing is not bad? https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/p12-pwm.html ) Sorry, if somewhere exist topic with similar questions, I just lazy ass. Even to use search bar. If you've read this far, you're really cool. I would have fallen asleep a long time ago. Thank you in advance.

Hi guys, Ive built a new pc recently and have experienced a complication. Parts list: • thermaltake p7 case • Gigabyte aorus motherboard • gigabyte aorus gpu • thermaltake psu 1050 plat • team force ram • thermaltake pacific radiators (allum) • thermaltake pacific fittings • thermalktake resivour D5 pump combo kits • thermaltake petg pipe I think thats all that is relevant, as far as i can tell the only cross metal contamination is the copper fittings and alloy rads. The copper fittings are painted though with no metal exposed. The gpu and cpu both seem to have mostly plastic composition of the waterblock. Ive tried researching what the heat transfer plates are made of and if they are exposed to the coolant but have not made any significant findings. ( if someone knows i would appreciate the info, im guess either nickel or some other material similar) which would add to the cross contamination. So i got the pc built, ive taken my time doing work in small doses checking everything twice and re making anything that does not look 100% On startup no issues, installed windows and away she goes. spent some time installing nividia platform/ updated drivers. Few other bits temp monitors system run down and rgb software (anti rainbow software) ha. Prior i did leak test th system for a few hours with the psu jumped and no power anywhere else, just with distilled water. Three days gaming no issues and excellent performance. Get home from night shift pc will turn on but turns straight back off with a waring stating a leak has been detected, instant panic check every fitting check blocks shine a torch around mobo/ gpu. No issues dry as a whistle. So i google and find out the mobo has a very well know issue to throw false codes. Suggestions to either unplug the rgb/leak detect plug or unscrew then re install leak detect screw. Well i turn the pc off before it shuts down to tired to try the fix so i go to bed thinking it ca wait. Also while this was going on the pc would only boot if the water loop was unplugged from psu, so all fans/rgb/pumps run off two headers. Get up later in the day an elbow has blown off water everywhere on the floor and desk nothing on the pc except small dots of spray that have dried up, very small but also many of them. Fix loop, pc wont boot. I cant remember if it wouldnt boot of the morning but i think it would. So this leads me to think something has been damaged by the water. Mobo or psu. So my partners brother who works in IT and pc repair is coming next week to test components and help me out in general. What im looking for here is an explanation on the pressure build up, i have three theorys in mind so far. • 1 pumps on to high speed. Both were on setting 5 which is 160 litres an hour in my case. • 2 air getting in some how loose fitting ect • 3 mixed metals. Allum copper and possible nickle but all surfaces seem painted or coated. Ive since turned the pump do to setting 2 which is roughly 70-80 lph. Replaced coolant with the stuff i originally bought but was waiting to make sure i was happy with all tube placemnet before using, this stuff has corrosion inhibitors and biocides. Re bent 2 tubes that were maybe a fraction off dead staight onto fitting ao they are now 100%. Ive only been able to run it for 20min since then and seems to have less pressure but is also cold and after a short run time. What did i do wrong guys? Well i know what i did wrong but did it cause the build up of pressure? Photos of the loop, blocks pipes the lot. Of it before and after coolant. Of new glow speed, of fitting that blew. And of the loop in test mode with psu jumped.

Hi I’m wondering how bad negative pressure in your case is. I will have 6 and 3 intakes. Other than sucking in dust, is there any performances gain or loss between negative and positive pressures? Thanks.

Been using my current rig for a little over a year now and a month or so ago I noticed it got insanely dusty in just a year, even more so compared to the pre-built system it replaced which didn't get as dusty over a period of 6 years. Since building and up until yesterday, I've only utilised one of the 3 preinstalled 140mm fans that came with the Mastercase Pro 5 as an exhaust, leaving the front two unused. Right now I'm using the top most of the front two fans along with the exhaust. For the time being anyway. And just to note, I have my PC on the floor due to my desk literally being just two thin pieces of mdf with cardboard sandwiched between (and Ikea have the gall to charge £25 for it. The Wanks.). I want to obtain positive air pressure in my case so that it doesn't get as dusty as it did but I have no idea how. Ideally I want two 140mm fans in the front(that are both running and not just the one) as intakes and a 140mm fan in the back as an exhaust. I know I cold have a third in front but the drive cage in the basement would pretty much block it. What I don't know is if this would result in positive or negative air pressure. Hell. I don't even know if currently having the one front intake and one rear exhaust is currently positive or negative. Getting an answer to both of these would be nice. I have to run one front fan at the moment since the second can't reach to either of the two headers at the bottom of my z270 Gaming M5 (i have no extensions...yet) and my system gets real bratty and fussy if I plug both into the two closest headers(All headers are working. it's just if these two are both used and I don't know why. Headers are Sys_Fan4 and Pump_Fan1.) Also, I'm currently thinking about replacing the three DC 140mm fans that came with the case with some decent pwm fans of the same size but I don't know which ones are worth throwing money at. Airflow is what and I honestly couldn't give two shits about RGB. Also Black, fans have gotta be black so they don't look out of place with my case.

Hope you guys will be able to help me I've been having a small (or big) problem with my loop recently. Recently there has been an issue where when I turn off the system for the night, I will see that a tube has popped out of the fitting because of the pressure being built up. When the loop is running, I can open the reservoir cap and hear air seep out, like opening a carbonated drink. I've never had this issue before and have had the loop for 2 years now. I have only cleaned it once and am only using distilled water. When the system is off, I can also hear bubbles in the radiator, like little clicks as if there was soda in there. Is it a chemical reaction? Any help would be greatly appreciated, and If I need to do a deep clean, how would I go about doing that? Mix vinegar and warm water? I'm using PETG with copper CPU block and a Acetal+Nickel GPU block. Thanks!

I'm about to have an X62 Kraken (2x140mm) mounted at the front of my new s340 elite! However, I'm worried about the radiator significantly affecting the inflow, to the point where the case is no longer pressure-positive. My house is a bit old and dust-prone, and I don't want dust leaking in through the cracks. The case is too small for a push-pull configuration. My outflow is (2x120mm). Is all hope lost? Or do you think I might be okay if I adjust my fan speeds a little?

Ok so I have been doing more research on head pressure and flow rate. While I was doing this I got an idea, what if I adapted a inline water psi gauge into a pc water cooling loop. Could I use it to measure the head pressure in different parts of my loop? Converting pressure in psi to head in feet It seems like a fun project to better understand how a water loop works...

What would be the improvements or deterioration of CPU temps in the following situations in an isolated vacuum chamber. 1. High Pressure 2. Normal Pressure/ Moderate Low Pressure 3. Low pressure And in Vaccum cpu's gonna burn hahah Below is a basic diagram of how this things going to happen.

I'm trying to spec out a build for a little more than a console, going for $6-700. Basically, I want to go with the Meshify-C for a number of reasons, but airflow is a big one. The Meshify-C is one of the only cases for under $100 that allows airflow from more than just the top and bottom of the front panel which I like. I will be using this in a pretty small room as a theater/light gaming rig, so I'm going with an AIO. Basically, I'm wondering how to maintain positive pressure, and looking for fan recommendations. I would go for RGB, but if the fans aren't RGB black would be nice. Any advice on how to set up the airflow would be really useful, because I really want to find a way to stick with the AIO I have picked out. (PLEASE do not spend a lot of time critiquing the rest of my build unless you have a legitimate alternative). PCPartPicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/CloroxBleach57/saved/

Hello. I plan to build This build sometisometime this season and I'm curious if I'm making the right choices with the fan set up. I'll have three ML120 pro's in the front which has a fan filter, these will be intake. The three stock fans that come wits the case, af140l, will be ed xhaust with two on top and one in rear. To be clear, I'm also using a three-way fan splitter(4-pin) to connect all of the exhaust fans and then leave the remaining three 4-pin pwm spots on the mobo for the ML120's. Do you think this will provide +pressure? Thanks.

I just built my first rig using a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case. I'm using a Corsair H100i GTX cooler in a pull setup at the top, and a gtx 980ti hybrid also in pull, both are exhausts as well. I removed the 200mm fan and replaced it with the two 140mm fans that were the original exhaust fans. I've also removed the bottom hard drive cage to reduce resistance. I'm not obsessive about keeping my system silent so I have all of my fans (that I can controll) at full speed So I'm looking for advice on achieving positive are pressure while maintaining full fan speed, even of that means buying different fans. The pic is from before I actually removed the bottom cage and switched the intake fans.

So I am going to be building a mini ITX pc for college and am wondering if high static pressure fans are needed for pushing air through a radiator? I know you need them to pull air through a radiator but I'm not exactly a pro at aerodynamics. Build: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/DkD8JV Rad: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww Rad fans: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/shCwrH/corsair-case-fan-co9050014ww Case fans: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/yYkD4D/corsair-case-fan-co9050009ww I am switching out the H100i v2 fans because reviews have said they are too loud. Any help would be appreciated. And feel free to comment on the build or give advice.

I am shopping for fans and noticed phanteks mp 140 fans have a 1.72mmh2o rating, while the noctua ippc 3000 has a 10mmh2o rating. I know they are two totally different classes of fans, but I just started wondering when higher static pressure stops making a difference for things like radiators and heatsinks. Like all other conditions being equal, would a 10mmh2o fan out perform a 2mmh2o fan by a long shot or just marginally if at all?

I am thinking of getting the Corsair H80i liquid cooler and mounting it to the back (or I could choose the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 evo instead). The H80i comes with 2 SP120 PWM fans. My case comes with 1 120mm LED fan at the front and 1 120mm at the back, which I would move to the bottom. I am struggling to find out whether the included fans are Air Flow or Static Pressure, I assume AF. I would like to buy a second LED fan to complete the look of the front, but since it is in front of hard drive bays, I would go with a static pressure fan. Both front fans would be intake. I'd also like LEDs on the top so I am thinking of going for 2 air flow quiet edition fans. So, I am thinking of having 2 led 120mm intake fans in the front, 1 air flow (i think) and 1 static pressure, 2 led 120mm air flow quiet edition exhaust fans in the top, the stock H80i static pressure fans at the back, and 1 120mm air flow (i think) exhaust fan at the bottom. Is this a good choice or shall I change some of my options? What kind of pressure will this give me - positive, neutral, or negative?