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I can’t get out of the screen that tries to boot up to a safe mode it just restarts pc on loop when it load the logo, under the logo it says preparing and then restarts on loop

So i had some problem with my (Realtek) sound drivers. At first it was that my laptop didn't have any audio sound and headphones with jack didn't work, so i thought that ill just delete it and reinstall new one (i tried to update but it said that it had already newest drivers installed). I reinstalled new ones that worked (I reinstalled the same ones btw). After few weeks i noticed that windows started downloading latest version of sound drivers so i didn't think anything bad of it i left the laptop to download the updates came back to a blue screen of death. Since then i tried troubleshooting, all those cleaning commands on cmd, tried to reset laptop but it gets to 60% then blue screen appears again, even tried to reinstalling windows 10 but it also goes in to blue screen, and blue screen always has the same error code :NOT LESS OR EQUAL. Im at a loss please someone help me.

How do I fix this? there's a literal stream of micro bubbles. Temps seem ok but i know they could be better. I'm at 25-30 cpu idle, 25-35 gpu idle, 40-55 cpu heavy load, 40-60 gpu heavy load. Cpu is 12700k oc to 5.0, gpu is 3080 oc +75 core +115 memory. iv bled it checked concentration, ph around 9. 10000000_7591201840919147_2625494337336888498_n.mp4

As the title says, I can’t get past BIOS. What happened: I saw a YouTube video stating to reduce latency with power settings, the steps: - Download “Windows power plan settings explorer utility” - Uncheck “Processor performance time check interval” - Edit power plan with advanced options - Set the value of “Processor performance time check interval” to “5000” milliseconds - Reset PC After the reset, pc did not want to boot at all. No BIOS and it was stuck on a DRAM red light. After some digging and trying a few things like: - Clearing CMOS with a button on MOBO - Reset CMOS with a taken out battery - Changing positions of RAM/ Using only one stick in all positions - Unplugging all peripherals - Disconnecting all components and leave only CPU and RAM Nothing worked, so I gave up after that, a few hours later I thought I could update the BIOS with Q-Flash, so I did, after updating I got into BIOS! Now there is another issue, the pc is stuck in an infinite bios loop. I will only see the Gigabyte logo with options to access BIOS, boot or Q-Flash. Once BIOS is accessed it will always say that it has been reset. The time and date are wrong by 23 years, each time I change a setting it will not save; only date and time has saved. the NVMe with windows is shown in BIOS same as all other components. Components: Gigabyte x670 Gaming X AX Ryzen 9 7950x RTX 4090 G-Skill DDR5 32GB 6000MHz Corsair 850W Samsung 970 Pro 1TB (No overclocking has been ever done) Played with this setup for the past 3 months and had no issues. Any help is appreciated! Any questions asked I will answer. Also sorry English is not my first language.

Hello and I need your help This started last year around August I believe after a Windows 10 update that SOMETIMES/Randomly my computer would not shut down / restart. It go to the shutdown/restart screen and keeps on looping but never shutting down no matter how long i wait. until I hit the reset button and shutting it down with success afterwards. The thing is I hate doing it and I have search and tried everything from disabling fast startup, power plans edit, update drivers or more windows updates, virus scans, uplugged usb connections, sfc/scannow, DISM, closing all programs via task manager, added AutoEndTask to registry. Still this happens and sometimes it happens if my pc were to slow down or have trouble opening a program. PLEASE HELP and Thanks PC specs: CPU AMD Ryzen 5900x Motherboard Aorus x570 Elite Bios F35 RAM Corsair Vengeance 64 GB GPU AMD MSI Armour 580x Case Thermaltake Overseer Storage WD BLACK 2TB SN850 NVMe Internal Gaming SSD WD_BLACK 2TB SN850X NVMe WD Black 2TB PSU EVGA 1300 watt Display(s) ASUS VG278 1920x1080 144 Hz ASUS VE278 1920x1080 60Hz Cooling CORSAIR iCUE H100i Elite CAPELLIX Liquid CPU Cooler Keyboard Logitech G710+ Mouse Logitech 403 Hero Gaming Mouse Sound Logitech 2.1 Speakers Operating System Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit

Hello everyone! I am here because I am caught in a bsod loop from hell. I was getting access to windows to try and recover but would always bsod out to fast to do anything. I got all my drivers updated but the windows updated failed everytime at 100% or sooner. I updated bios and lost full access to windows since it seemed like the boost process sped up. I thought my windows auto update was on but I guess it wasn't for who knows how long. I have tried different ram. bsod loop different gpu. bsod loop i always get the same error codes too: BAD_POOL_CALLER system thread exception something kernal something IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL NTFS_FILE_SYSTEM KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED SYSTEM THREAD EXCEPTION NOT HANDLED I think that is all of them. I am stuck and need this computer to be able to work. Could it be a bad mother board? or cpu? I built the pc in back in April of 2020. Never overclocked the cpu. just the gpu by a little bit and turned on xmp for the ram. Ryzen 3900X MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge Wifi Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 64gb (2x32gb) EVGA 2080 FTW3 Edition Corsair 750 corsair h100i platinum aio cooler samsung 970 evo plus (resently msi secure erase+" used on this)

Just bought an open box B650-a mobo & ryzen 9 7900x, upgraded to next gen ryzen and switched motherboards, the first time i turned on the pc it gave me this message, y clicked the "Y" option, and then entered the bios, i booted a version on Atlas OS that was using on mi old pc, the version is like 2 months old at least, and it just started looping between the bios "Press Del or F2 to rnter bios", then black screen, then the animation of a circle of dots like as if it was going to start windows, then it goes back to the bios message, in the mobo i have installed 2 nvme m.2's that i was using on my previos pc, one with Atlas OS on it and the other one with all mi docs/games, the first time i didin't tryed to boot windows, but since i started having that problem i tryed to usb booting but the same problem persisted, tried with 3 difetent versions of windows (w10 home, win 10 pro, atlas os) and i still have the same problem, i finally cleaned the disc that had AtlasOs intalled but nothing changed, it still didnt let me boot windows with a usb stick, can someone help me pls.

Can I use a 12mm Silicone Rod for Hard Tube Bending with a 13mm ID. Will this be a problem?

Playing Smite with a friend, screen flashes black w/audio still playing and says HDMI 1 in the corner, flashes to off, does this infinitely until the system crashes. Once the system crashes, it either blackscreens and constantly goes between blackscreen with no signal to blackscreen with hdmi in the corner. It does this infinitely, doesn't crash. I can still access the bios fine, but sometimes it will boot windows and take me to the login page. The second you touch a key, it goes into the blackscreen loop. The pc is unresponsive during the loop and only occasionally lets input in, so it isn't crashing completely. Every once and a while if I spam ctrl + shift + winkey + B (I think) it makes a beep and shows the login background for a split second but it's all checkered, then goes back to the loop. This is the second time it's done this. I spent 8 hours yesterday troubleshooting, doing absolutely everything I could from removing all my overclocks, lowering my RAM speed, removing potentially damaged storage devices, but nothing worked except wiping every single drive and putting a fresh install of windows on my ssd. The PC itself works flawlessly, it worked for 4 hours the first time, with my VR stuff and all, ran everything perfectly, and then suddenly in Smite it killed itself. The same thing happened again, while in Smite. I honestly have no idea what's causing it, especially with the pc itself running fine and then breaking completely twice now while playing the same game, yet running everything else completely fine. Not sure if it's just a coincidence or something from Smite is breaking something. It's essentially soft-bricked but not totally unresponsive. I'd really like to not format my drives and reinstall everything every time I want to play, so any and all help is greatly appreciated lol. Specs: -Windows 10 Home Edition x64 -HP Nvidia Rtx 2070 Super -MSI Z390-A Pro LGA1151 (BIOS version E7B98IMS.1C0 -Intel i7 9700k -Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 x2 -Corsair 1050 watt silver PSU

My computer when starting up loops and never gets a chance to get to the windows 10 load up. I tried 3 different ssd and hdd so I know it's not that plus a boot media to see if I can do a reset. No matter what I can't get to the windows 10 screen, as soon as it finishes with the msi logo it restarts the computer and starts over. It's not the ram as I switch them out and only used one. So it could only come down to the psu, mobo, or the cpu. My question is if it was the mobo would it even start? The psu doesn't seem likely as it doesn't have an issues looping but I could be wrong. The cpu could be likely but I just don't know. Has anyone else had this problem and could lend any info? By the way this started one day when I was in the middle of watching a video on my computer and it just randomly restarted and since then it has been in this state. Cpu: AMD Ryzen 9 3950X Psu: Corsair - RMx Series 850W 80 Plus Gold Mobo: MSI Meg Unify x570 Video: https://imgur.com/iF2HYef Edit: Should of mentioned this in the original post. I cleared the CMOS. Also I reset the bios to default. I also upgraded and downgraded my bios with different versions through mflash and still had the same problem.

Hey guys! I'm doing an at home experiment for my physics degree due to covid restrictions, and I need to suck water up a straight vertical tube. I'm not a super practical person and I've been racking my brain for ages to find a nice cheap solution, and then it occurred to me that water cooling enthusiasts might have some experience/ideas on this. Let me describe the problem in detail. The bigger picture is that I want to put a vertical tube in a tank, draw water up the tube, then release the water so that it drops back down the tube and oscillates up and down within the tube. What I need to figure out is a cheap and simple way to draw the fluid up the tube initially. The tube must be rigid, straight, and transparent. The tube will be about 1m in length, and I would like to be able to draw the fluid nearly to the top but not all the way to the top where it'd overflow. I must be able to draw the fluid slowly enough that I could precisely set the height anywhere on the tube. The tube diameter is not yet decided, but I would be happy to use standard sized pipes and fittings, ideally a tube between 0.5-2cm in diameter would be good (but I'm flexible on this). I was thinking that I'd need to put a valve on the top of the tube then use a suction pump to draw water up the tube, then seal the valve, and when I'm ready to drop the fluid, quickly open the valve again. It would be a bonus (really not necessary if it's not very easy to incorporate) if I could get an accurate pressure measurement of the air inside the tube before I drop the fluid. Also, once I open the valve I don't want it to restrict air flow too much as this would stop the fluid falling freely. I want the pressure in the tube to near instantly reach atmospheric pressure after opening the valve. I'd like to achieve all this for under £50 (ideally quite a bit less than that). I'm in the UK, so please could you recommend parts that I'd be able to get here, and I'm not limited to buying PC water cooling parts, literally anything that will do the job is fine! I'd be really grateful for any advice, parts recommendations, alternative methods, etc. (I suppose one alternative method is that I could pump water into the bottom of the tube then seal it with a valve at the top and remove the pump apparatus from the bottom of the tube before opening the valve again. I am aware I could also lower the tube into the tank, seal it, then lift it up, but this isn't viable for me as I won't have a deep enough tank to be able to get the water far enough up the tube.)

I just got a whole new setup for my dad, he needs it for work tomorrow, asap, everything was working perfectly and I decided to install Ryzen Master for the chipset drivers, the instant it installed it blue screened and now it is an endless loop, I've tried every troubleshooting method and since it is new there is no previous saves to return to, and it had internet before of course but I can't system restore using the cloud and the usb alternative is not working, I need help asap.

Budget (including currency): $350USD Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gta, cod, doom, red dead, various a+ titles. Streaming while running discord. VR Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Current parts list CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x GPU: Aorus Master 3080 MoBo: Aorus Master X570 Power Supply: Corsair RM750X gold plus Memory: 32 gig 4x8 gig sticks Trident Neo Storage: 1 2tb 980 pro gen 4 M.2 6 Samsung 860 2.5 ssd 500 gig 1 plextor pcie 512 gig 12 Corsair LL120 fans in white Current water cooling parts list 2 360 se EK slim tripple radiators 2 240 se EK slim dual radiators 1 EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB Plexi pump/res 1 EK Quantum Momentum Aorus X570 Master D-RGB Plexi CPU/Motherboard Waterblock Using 12/16mm hard line tubing On order parts 1 EK Quantum Vector Xtreme RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Plexi 1 EK Quantum Vector Xtreme RTX 3080/3090 Backplate Black Planned Purchases 1 EK EK Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB Plexi pump/res 12/16mm hardline tubing 3-6 Corsair LL120 fans in white 1 ROG Thor 1200W Power Supply or 1 ROG Gundam 800w Power Supply Needing some recommendations for a big enough case to hold 2 custom loops, one for cpu and one for gpu. I Don't want the radiators to be covered/hidden like in a Tower 900 case. My first choice was a Thermaltake core P7 but they don't make them anymore and I'm not spending $600 to get one. My current thought was the Lian Li O 11 Dynamic XL in white. Only problem is I'm only seeing space for 2 360 rads and 1 240 rad, as well as only space for 1 pump. Does someone who has any experience with this case happen to know? Wanting a white and black theme but I don't mind painting a case if it holds everything. I don't really know much about what cases are actually out there for builds like this. TIA and any tips or guidance is appreciated. I'll post pics of my current build that has most of the parts and before I got the 3080 (why I have to get a bigger case). This was my first pc build ever (the bends give it away) and I decided hardline loop was the only way to go lol. Also I know I need to get a legit desk and monitor but this isn't about that haha. VID_280010301_145753_249.mp4

So, I did something really stupid. I turned on Ultra Fast Boot and selected a wrong boot device at the same time. Saved, and went into "Reboot and Select proper boot device with no way of entering the BIOS. So I can't enter the BIOS to correct the System boot drive or the system to enter the BIOS via windows correction. It's a Softlock, can't think of a way of solving this, any help? Motherboard: Gigabyte b450 Gaming X Ryzen 5 1600 SSD Adata Gammix 11 512GB with windows SSD Kingston 240GB UV, with windows, boot drive before the tragedy Two hard drives, 2TB, Seagate

Hey all, Ive been a pc enthousiast for a while and i'm about to tackle my first custom waterloop in my "newly build" system. Recently ive upgraded my case to a ThermalTake View 71 and started collecting parts for my watercooling build. So far the parts i'm going for and/or already have are : - Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ( it has ekwb block on it for the vram the cpu is still seperate ) - Asus GTX 1080ti ( wich already has a ekwb block on it and backplate ) - Corsair Vengeance RGB 32gb (4x8gb) 3200mhz - AMD 2700x ( currently possibly changing to a 3950x or a 5900x ) - Corsair m.2 970 pro 1tb x2 - Corsair ssd 2tb - Corsair hx1200 watt powersupply - Corsair Hydro X Series XH303i RGB custom watercooling kit ( for good reason explained below ) - Corsair Hydro X Series XR5 360mm radiators x2 ( 1 included in the kit and 1 bought seperate ) - Bykski Distroplate for the ThermalTake View 71 ( 360rad size ) - Phanteks D140 Distroplate ( small size replacing the rear exhaust fan ) - iFixit Pro Kit ( thanks LTT ) Now for cooling wise clearly i want to go custom loop since i already have acquired some or atleast most parts. I'm still awaiting the arrival of both distroplates and some minor stuff but ive already started to build most of what i have into the case. The issue that i am facing or atleast that i think i am facing is. The Bykski Distroplate has a mount on it for a pump and i'm quoting the manufacturer atm "compatible with various brands ddc pumps or bykski own". Corsair XH303i comes with a kind of reservoir wich has a ddc pump wich i have taken apart and normaly ( according to my calculations ) is gonna fit on the Bykski distroplate. Now all the components i have and want to watercool or better sayed have a loop on it are the cpu, vram, gpu, 2x 360rads, 1 big distroplate wich wil function as reservoir and pump, 1 small distroplate. The thing i'm worried about or am wondering is, is that ddc pump gonna manage it for that entire loop or will i need to add a second pump/reservoircombo to the loop? Thanks in advance for any help or advice on this matter. Greetings Chimmie ps : picture added is how the build currently looks ( i have a corsair h100i running on it atm and a gtx 1070 to test fit everything and ofc testing to see if everything works and what my layout is gonna be, preplanning tubes and bends and such ).

Hey there! So I recently bought Ryzen 5 3600 and Prime B450 Plus motherboard and 16gb of ram to go with it, it was a bundle. Everything was working fine, until a couple of days ago, I installed a new cooler for my cpu to replace the stock one. The installation was a bit problematic, and i spread some thermal paste on my motherboard during the installation (which I did clean the best I could), I also removed the gpu during the installation and managed to break off the plastic latch/clip on the pcie slot. My gpu is in the slot now and seems to be working, but is it safe to keep using it? After starting my pc after this, it kept turned on (all the fans and lights etc) but before anything shows up on my screen, it resets and then loops usually 1-3 times before I get to bios/or windows. Now, it doesnt do this everytime and sometimes it simply boots normally. After getting to windows, I've tried playing some games etc, checked the temps and everything seems fine. Have I broken my motherboard somehow or is there something else that could cause the boot issue? There is also an orange light blinking under my 2 pcie slots that did not blink before iirc, also I did not find any documentation about this led on the motherboard manual.

HI everyone! I am having trouble signing in to my facebook account since i did a clear history and cache on chrome on my pc. I have managed to reset the password but it asks me to confirm my indentity everytime i log in. it happens to send me a code on my email or phone saying : "To help us confirm your identity on Facebook, we need to verify your email address. Paste this code into your browser. It can only be used once.". I put the code to login but it says wrong password . Also got this once after the confirm procedure . have tried the same on my phone with no result .anyone can help me with this? thank you!

My laptop is LG U560 (2013) Chrome, version and windows10: On the Tuesday night I decided to update my laptop since it had became sluggish in the last week and thought the update might help as suggested by many youtube videos, after trying other fixed I came across with the updating my software solution so I proceeded. Duringthe nightI downloaded the windows update assistant and left my pc downloading the updates at 49% before I went for bed, 7 hours later I woke upand the pc was installing the updates after restating automatically but it was stuck at 30% for hours then it suddenly went off which could have been the problem with my faulty laptop battery, then I pluggedin and tried booting, and here I ended. My laptop can not boot anymore and it's stuck in this loop. It has created these unknown copies of my windows operating system and wherever I try booting one of them, I get driven back to the recovery menu. So here iam, stuck and I idle because all my work is on here. The are the clones of windows I have but never created. I get here after choosing one operating system from the list, when I select a language I get redirected to the recovery menu again.

Hi, I'm trying loop through an object inside of an other object in vuejs and I can't figure out how to make it work. I'm trying to show all the sizes availaible for the variants in my html. Here's the data : export default { data() { return { product: 'Shirts', description: 'Description of the product', image: 'src/assets/img/black-shirt.jpg', inventory: 10, onSale: true, details: ['50% cotton', '30% polyester', '20% wool'], variants: [ { id: 2234, color: 'green', image: 'src/assets/img/green-shirt.jpg', sizes: [ { size: 'S', quantity: 10 }, { size: 'M', quantity: 3 }, { size: 'L', quantity: 4 }, { size: 'XL', quantity: 8 } ], }, { id: 2235, color: 'blue', image: 'src/assets/img/blue-shirt.jpg', sizes: [ { size: 'S', quantity: 10 }, { size: 'M', quantity: 3 }, { size: 'L', quantity: 4 }, { size: 'XL', quantity: 8 } ], }, ], } } } Here's what I've tried for the moment : <div v-for="size in variants.sizes" :key="size.size"> {{ size.size }} </div> Any help would be great! Thanks Full code : <template> <div id="app"> <div class="nav-bar"></div> <div class="product-display"> <div class="product-container"> <div class="product-image"> <img v-bind:src="image"> </div> <div class="product-info"> <h1>{{ product }}</h1> <p v-if="inventory > 5">In stock</p> <p v-else-if="inventory <= 5 && inventory > 0">Almost sold out</p> <p v-else>Out of stock</p> <p v-if="onSale">On sale!</p> <p>{{ description }}</p> <ul> <li v-for="detail in details" :key="detail"> {{ detail }} </li> </ul> <div v-for="variant in variants" :key="variant.id"> {{variant.color}} </div> <div v-for="size in variants.sizes" :key="size.size"> {{ size.size }} </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </template> <script> export default { data() { return { product: 'Shirts', description: 'Description of the product', image: 'src/assets/img/black-shirt.jpg', inventory: 10, onSale: true, details: ['50% cotton', '30% polyester', '20% wool'], variants: [ { id: 2234, color: 'green', image: 'src/assets/img/green-shirt.jpg', sizes: [ { size: 'S', quantity: 10 }, { size: 'M', quantity: 3 }, { size: 'L', quantity: 4 }, { size: 'XL', quantity: 8 } ], }, { id: 2235, color: 'blue', image: 'src/assets/img/blue-shirt.jpg', sizes: [ { size: 'S', quantity: 10 }, { size: 'M', quantity: 3 }, { size: 'L', quantity: 4 }, { size: 'XL', quantity: 8 } ], }, ], } } } </script>

First off the specs CPU - Ryzen 5 1500x GPU - MSI 1050ti MOBO - Gigabyte AB350M-DS3H-CF Bio version f40 RAM - Corsair Valueselect 16x2GB 288 Pin DDR4 2133 installed in proper slots. PSU - Smart Thermaltake 430 I can have my GPU in and running on the generic driver all is fine but as soon as I install the nvidia driver my PC shuts off turns on, last a few seconds to a few minutes then cycles again, this just keeps happening till I go into safe mode and DDU the driver and once back on the generic driver it is good again. I have tried this GPU in another PC and it works just fine no problems even after a driver update. Also fresh install of Windows 10. Also get a BSOD with video scheduler internal error

I am trying to install Windows 10 on a new m.2 SSD. Previously, this system was working with Windows 10 until I removed the old m.2 SSD. --- When I am trying to install a Windows 10 on the new m.2 drive, the installation starts normally "copying windows files, getting files ready for installation, installing features, installing updates, finishing up" all seem to work normally. Then, when Windows restarts, it goes right back to the beginning of the installation. Does this mean that there is something wrong with the new m.2 SSD? Or is there something in the BIOS settings that needs to be changed? --- Side notes: The installation seems to work normally when I install Windows onto the secondary HDD that is installed in the system. The PC currently boots into Windows 10 from the HDD, but I would like to change this so that the OS is installed on the m.2 SSD.

So I just have a few questions about my loop. I do apologize if I should have created multiple topics. Will blowing through a tube connected to the loop while the pump is empty, but the loop not totally empty; will that damage the pump? For my next questions, I have an image and an illustration. The red is the drain valve. Top and bottom are 360mm rads Far right is a 240mm rad. The inlets and outlets that I have marked are in the same position as the loop itself, including the locations and orientation of the rads as well. Only difference here is the pump/res combo is connected to the 240mm rad. When draining the loop through the drain valve using steps: Open drain valve Open fill port on top of res Let liquid drop out. Close drain valve Fill up res Run pump (Obviously turning it off before getting dry) Turning off pump Repeat steps (Keeping fill port open) With how terrible my loop is set up, will all the old fluid get flushed out? Or is this going to be a nightmare?

Hey guys My brother got new Parts and now for some reason the pc keeps booting in to bios I have tried all I know to fix it and nothing happens I can see the SSD/HDD in the system info but it doesn't wanna boot to it I have updated the bios and disconnected the HDD's System is a MSI b450m pro-VDH max ryzen 5900x ; 16GB corsair vengeance ; radeon RX580 OC ; gamdias AIO ; 1x kingston ssd (120gb) ; 2x WD 1TB and a old aero cool 700W PSU If possible can anyone help me

Hello, I have an issue with my ram. I went on a trip for 3 days and came back home to my pc not booting up. (my PC was working perfectly fine before hand) I did some research and decided to swap around ram and removed a ram stick and now my pc is able to turn on. Was just wondering why my ram has just suddenly stopped working when i havent touched my pc for 3 days. NEED HELP ASAP PLZ