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Hey guys, i need to find the best non-conductive thermal paste for my acer nitro 5 laptop, idk which one has better performance and have better lifespan: -Grizzy Kryonaut -IC Diamond Do you guys have a different choice? price not matter, just need the best non-conductive thermal paste for my laptop .Thanks a lot

Upon researching Thermal Grizzly's products, while Conductonaut has the best thermal conductivity of them all, I know that it corrodes aluminium and copper heatsinks and Nickel-based heatsinks seem to be non-existent. So I compared the Kryonaut paste and the Carbonaut. The latter has vastly superior thermal conductivity of about 62.5 W/mk over the Kryonauts 12.5 W/mk so it seems like a no-brainer. However, I'm using a laptop so the CPU and GPU dies are clearly smaller than desktop ones and the smallest Carbonaut pads TG offers are 32x32. (I presume that's 32 millimetres). How practical is it to cut a Carbonaut pad so it can fit a laptop CPU die?

Sorry about the title, because I'm from Sir Lanka and I want to know where I can buy Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut thermal paste in Sri Lanka. The real deal, not a fake that's branded as Thermal Grizzly. Please Help. Also tell me it this is a good idea, I have a Lenovo y540 (i5-9300H, 16GB RAM, GTX1650) laptop. The CPU temps goes up to 98°C and thermal throttles. I tried undervolting (-140mV) and it brings the max temps to 94°C which is better than before. After some research I came to the conclusion that my thermal paste must have dried up. So I came to the conclusion to re-paste the CPU. Please tell me if this a good idea and if so where I can buy the Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut (or anything better) from Sri Lanka online or in stores. Thanks in advance.

Which do you prefer and why? My new cooler will be the thermalright t8 and the cpu will either be the ryzen 5800 or 5900

I have a 3600x with an asus tuf x570 wi fi mobo and a mattrexx 50 case. Anyways I had a spare never used wraith prism cooler with the stock paste still and used that instead of the wraith spire. Temperatures dropped and it was working pretty good. However I had to get into my computer and change my nvme drive so I had to remove the heatsink and in doing so I used 99% rubbing alcohol to completely clean the thermal paste off of the prism and cpu. I ordered two small 1 gram tubes of kryonaut and just put it on tonight. However the temperatures are higher than they were with the stock paste. I used up the whole tube doing the paste three times. I spread it at first, wiped it off then tried the x method, wiped that off then did the line method. All three times I did this my temps were higher than before. Cinebench r15 would never go above 77 celsius even during five multi core tests in a row. Immediately it jumps to about 83 celsius now. Also my max boost all core clock on everything stock/auto would boost to 4.1 ghz all core prior to this with the fan switch on high now i get 4.03 at best with full speed high setting cpu cooler fan and by the time the benchmark is over I am around 3.97 ghz. I used to get in the 1620's (1629 was the best I ever got) if I had the prism set to high and full speed in bios and even with silent bios and low setting on the prism I'd get between 1595 and 1605 so about 1600 on average. Now I'm getting that with high speed prism and full fan speed and 1550's! when I'm on low prism fan speed and silent fan bios. What am I doing wrong? Could I have gotten a bit of the old stock thermal compound under the lid in the area where the i/o die and chiplet is on the cpu and could that affect the heat? Did I put the paste on wrong? I'm so fed up I just ordered a new wraith prism on ebay to see if that will help and if not then I might just order another 3600x or even just plain 3600. This is crap. Also when I was cleaning the thermal paste off I think I may have had some get inbetween the small gap between the IHS and the top of the cpu. Could some of that thermal paste have gotten onto the IO Die or chiplet and be effecting that? If so is there a way I can remove that without delidding?

Hi, everyone! I have been having overheating on my laptop. It's a Lenovo with a i7 7700HQ and a GTX 1060-MaxQ and the heatsink is crap. It's a 2-pipe single heatsink shared by both the CPU and GPU. Lately I've been hitting close to 90ºC on the CPU and close to 80ºC on the GPU (which I never saw above 72ºC) so I decided to repaste it and clean all the dust. I used an old MX-4 I had for like 7-8 years and the thermals were even worse after! I figured the paste had gone bad and so I bought a Kryonaut tube and applied it and the thermals did not change! I was hitting 93ºC in the CPU and high 80ºC on the GPU. I opened it up again and this was what I saw (this is the CPU but the GPU looked the same. Usually you see a lot more paste when you open it up. Does this mean I used too little thermal paste? I used the pea method. Also, then I figured that MAYBE the screws on the heatsink are not meant to be tightened to the max and googled it and I guess that's right. Tightening it to the max can squeeze the thermal paste away from the contact zone so it should be tightened like 60%. I tested how many turns the screws had and it was 5 turns. I turned them 3 times each and that time I used the spread method like this. After testing, the max the CPU got was 87ºC and GPU was 74ºC, so either the spread method, the looser screws or both helped! Any ideas about this? Best regards!

Hello everyone, i was wondering if 1 gram of thermal paste is enough for re pasting 4 dies ? 2 mobile CPU (7700hq and 4700hq) and 2 mobile GPU ( gtx 1070 and gtx 970m).

Strap in, this is a tedious one. Silverstone Tundra TD03-lite (AIO short loop cooler, single-120mm-fan-supporting rad) Scythe Silent Wings 3 (for static pressure against AIO radiator, auto modulation on CPU fan pin) Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Intel 6700K (never delided) (seems to be a fairly good silicon lottery sample?) Silverstone FT05 (rotated design chassis, using both 2x200mm bottom fans at various speeds) R9 380 4GB (not much heat coming from this) / (formerly) 5970 HD (lots of heat came from this) Upon first ever installation the performance was excellent with the 6700K at stock speeds and 1.2v voltage never passing 60 degree centigrade in late summer after prolonged and various stress tests. It was very impressive. I cannot remember the perfectly-complete history of maintenance regarding this setup unfortunately, but I believe that my story will be sufficiently complete. I have replaced the paste at least once before my following problematic experiences. After said replacement of the paste I did forget to use a coffee filters, instead using some other material likely paper towels, to clean the cooling block so it has lost some of its sheen, this may have affected cooling slightly. However, using what I could remember of the same technique and guidance from online I found my cooler to again be at least very sufficient, with 70c being seen never even in tests unless I forget to turn the case airflow on or lower the pump speed too far. Rather suddenly, twice, in the last month - I've found my CPU overheating, even to the point of shutdown. I was even overheating when idle and in BIOS, heat was clearly accumulating over time and eventually caused the system to shut down even in windows CPU speed capped at 25% (Needed my PC for some things). This was very odd as it happened suddenly with no physical disturbances to the system. I was perplexed, seeking any answer other than physical... After acquiring some new 99.9% alcohol as a volatile solvent, I used coffee filters to thoroughly clean the CPU and block then re-applied my paste and subsequently firmly secured the block to the CPU. The temperatures were then down again to 25c in idle as normal and some reasonable values when worked... Wow OK, I guess it was somehow, suddenly, a thermal interface issue. A week or two later, I heard my CPU fan whirring loudly, what could this be? Temperatures were approaching 70s... 80s in games, 90 in a memory stress test, a week ago idling at 40. It was not crashing, but I wasn't happy with the temperatures of course. A bad paste application? (again(?)) But it worsened over time? It's complex to describe my observations, the progression of the temperatures and the reading and temperatures on other components however I believe that: This is probably not the fault of: -cooling solution/setup/airflow (including dust) being insufficient (I've seen it performance excellently) -the iGPU being wasteful (I've tested with it on and off) -VRMs being broken (I'm seeing no strange voltages or power usage on the mobo or GPU) -cooler (pump) or fans being broken nor unreliable (the behaviour is not erratic in that sense) -sensors being broken (I've put my finger on the back of the mobo, it is certainly overheating)(although core #1 (2nd of 4) on my CPU consistently reads up to 5c hotter than the rest, and the whole set often jumps up and down by 10c between my 1sec set poll time) Considerations for diagnosis: Fan and pump speeds are all -Skylake is thinner than its predecessors which this cooler was designed for (Tundra 03 was released before Skylake) (although it feels stationary, tight and secure)(I noticed that when installing a H212+ on a friend's 6600k that the cooler was very loose and had to be tightened significantly but still wiggled) -Cooler could be too tight, squeezing the TIM out (I have no way of knowing) -Paste could be too little, or too much, or a combination with the above. -There could be airpockets in the paste (I have no way of knowing but clearly I've successfully avoided them in the past and otherwise applied the paste well) -I've tried stock motherboard settings and this has no positive affect on the thermal performance -The bolts that pass through the motherboard of the tundra 03 are a slightly troublesome design, as they can easily rotate in their provided bracket, causing the block to sit unevenly. (However I am aware of this and am especially careful to install this cooler correctly every time) -Recent intel security patches affect performance (this is really a long shot but I haven't tested my system with hyperthreading off) -Being an AIO, waterbubbles in the loop seem fairly unlikely. -I've had some BSOD lately, can't play a game (ARMA 3) as it causes a crash (which did scramble some windows settings on occasion, such as my start menu layout), very recently my PC is crashing when I'm AFK but never when I'm sitting at it, strangely. although I've seen no bluescreens since the zombieload etc. windows patch though I suspect no relation, could easily have been an audio driver. Please can anyone you offer some advice on what could be suddenly wrong with my set up? I'm relatively certain that the issue concerns mechanical design and installation of the cooler which I'm unable to inspect, nor form insight on, nor assess. Hope this is at least slightly interesting to someone out there. Holler if I need to clarify something. Update, 3rd June – Idling at sub 30, even falling to sub 30 after torture. Stressing my 6700k: with CPUz and MemTest is resulting in 65c after 5 min, up to 88c after an hour with all fans and pumps spinning up to their highest. I've heard of mechanical materials (TIM) needing to settle but I retain suspicions that a sudden and critical situation might occur again... Unless the recent windows patch addressing zombieload really did resolve something eheh...

hey guys, been meaning to repaste my laptop that i recently bought with some better thermal paste; mainly looking at kryonaut as it's apparently the best (do leave recommendations otherwise). but i've been looking online and it seems like there are two different packaging styles. (1) (2) looking around youtube, i see that most people are using tube (2). is there a difference between the two in terms of cooling performance? or are they the same compound but just in different and updated tubes. would love some help on this, thanks!

This product was teased a few months back by Der8auer in a video with GamersNexus. Carbonaut is a thermal pad similar to the IC Graphite Thermal Pad that we have seen from Innovation Cooling. But it is claimed by Der8auer to be more optimised and to perform about as well as an average to low performance thermal paste and better than IC's Graphite Thermal Pads. The one advantage to these carbon/graphite sheets is that they don't have to be replaced meaning they are ideal for graphics cards and applications where a lot of disassembly is required such as in laptops also they don't degrade over time like thermal paste does. However, thermal paste such as Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut performs much better, but this is the choice that consumers have: Do they want better performance for overclocking and testing or peace of mind knowing they don't have the change their thermal paste on their components most likely for the lifetime of the graphics card or processor. I can't wait to get my hands on this so I never have to replace the thermal paste on my gfx card again. This thermal pad is now on sale from many retailers (which are listed on Thermal Grizzly's website EDIT: Though it looks like its only available as a preorder currently) and has been tested by a couple of people so far, namely ScienceStudio, ToroTocho reviews and Der8auer himself. ScienceStudio Toro Tocho Reviews Der8auer Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/thermal-grizzly-carbonaut.828413/ This was only site online that I could find any discussion on sadly. No major sites had any topic relating to this.

Hello everyone, I know the 6700K is no longer a new CPU, but for those interested in delidding their i7-6700K or would like pictures for reference, I figured I'd post my results. Pre-warning... I use 'Conductonaut' and 'Liquid Metal' interchangeably in this thread. To start off with, I used: * Rockit 88 Delid/Relid Tool (For delidding and relidding) * Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (For between CPU die and IHS) * Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (For resealing IHS to CPU PCB) * Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (For between IHS and HSF) Some relevant system information: * 6700K at 4.4GHz (1.305V) * G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series DDR4 3000 (F4-3000C15D-16GVR) at XMP (3000MHz (1.35V)) * Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO w/ additional fan (Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 (Same fan that comes with HSF)) in push/pull configuration This was my first delid and first time playing with Liquid Metal of any brand. I actually never installed the CPU after the first application of Conductonaut because I was paranoid that I used too little / too much or if the area of the inside of the IHS I applied Conductonaut to was near the pins to the upper-right of the die. This is why you see some discoloration on the inside of the IHS (cleaned up the existing Conductonaut the best I could with isopropyl alcohol but Liquid Metal doesn't seem to clean up easy off the IHS. This was also my first time using anything but the pea method for applying thermal grease between the IHS and HSF. I opted for the spread method of the Kryonaut instead of the X (both methods are approved by Thermal Grizzly)... what a PITA. Pictures of the prepped CPU die: Pictures of the prepped IHS (inside) before applying RTV silicone: Pictures of the prepped IHS (outside): Comparison of before (left - after a 24-hour stress-test to validate my OC) and after (right - after a 30-minute stress-test): To summarize the above picture (my results seem to fall in line with what most experience (-15 to -20)... so I have no complaints): CPU: -18 Core #1: -21 Core #2: -19 Core #3: -20 Core #4: -17 The ONLY question I have is... HOW imperative is it that water doesn't touch the Liquid Metal? While applying RTV silicone to the IHS for resealing to the CPU PCB, I accidentally dropped it in the sink. It fell on the top of it first, bounced, and landed inside facing down where the sink contours. SOME water touched the outside edge and even less touched the Conductonaut . I used a napkin to dry the water off the outside edge and dabbed the moisture off the liquid metal where it made contact. I then took the q-tip that had some Conductonaut still on it and quickly went over the area I had applied Conductonaut so that it was even. All visible moisture was removed and the remaining Conductonaut had the same consistency it had before dropping the IHS. However, I read that gallium can oxidize when introduced to moisture (albeit it takes a long time). I'm 99% sure there was no moisture leftover, but my curiosity is getting the best of me.

I was looking on internet for THE best thermal paste none conductive an none liquid metal that is not corroding or degrading at all any type of material (aluminium, copper, nickel..) and I found a particular information on one of my listed thermal paste. The Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste is apparently (I'm not confirming this information, since a only dude talked about that and was really evasive on the subject) degrading a material used for heat spreader as eg: aluminium I want to know if it's true or not.. If incorrect I want to know which material is degrading over a long term of time with the Kryonaut (When I say degrading, I mean DESTROY the material as liquid gallium on aluminum, I don't care about scratching surface or decoloration, I want to know if it will survive long term use without killing the PC) (I am not debating about which thermal paste is the best, it's not the goal of the topic) I know that I am VERY specific, but it is really important that I know if it does kill a specific material.. THANKS YOU FOR ANSWERING ME.

Does anyone know about thermal paste that is better Than thermal grizzly kryonaut and isn't like liquid metal

Hello guys, I was thinking about delidding my i7-6700K for a while now. My load temps while overclocked are in the mid 80 C when stressed with AIDA64, and I seem to have gotten a CPU that heats even more than the average. FYI it's running 1.36-.137v at 4.7GHz and is cooled by a H100i v2. I bought myself a tube of kryonaut and I was wondering how much of an improvement I should see if I applied that instead of the liquid metal to the die. Would it be more worthwhile if I only used the kryonaut between the IHS and cooler or is it going to be a noticeable improvement even without liquid metal (which I am not too comfortable with for now) Regards