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Hello, I recently purchased an inverter for a home power backup system. It worked pretty well until I broke it. It came with two three pin fans installed (M DA08025B12UR). I thought that I could replace these with quieter ones but after I purchased new ones, I saw that the old fans were glued onto the motherboard. I then tried to cut and solder on the new fans using the old cables, but the system didnt recognise the fans and gave an error. I decided the best thing to do was to just solder the old fans back so that I at least had a working inverter again. But now one of the fans is spinning and the other just jerks once when starting up then wont spin at all. Any idea what could be causing this? Thanks

Greetings, members. I need your help. I use a 2200 VA Pure Sine Wave inverter having an output wattage of 1760 Watts with two batteries (220 Ah each), but while gaming, if there is power, my pc RESTARTS. However, everything works as expected if the computer is idle or performing some not so power-hungry task on a power cut. Plus, after RESTARTS, if I play the same game on the exact configuration on the inverter, there is no issue. The total calculated power consumption of the room where the computer is installed does not exceed 1000 Watts. I googled a lot but got nothing useful. Got my PSU checked. After a few tests, the Service centre guy told me it's working fine. I have the following hardware: 1) Asus 3090 Oc gaming GC 2) Corsair AX1000 80+ PSU 3) AMD 5950x 4) 3 NVME SSD’s 5) 1 HDD 6) Benq 32 inch Monitor Please guide. Thank you.

Outta nowhere this tv stopped working correctly, it still turns on and seemingly runs fine but the display is about as dim as it could be. You can see a little better with a flashlight at the right angle but it might as well be black. From what I've researched this is either an issue with the back led lights or the backlight inverter. The trouble is everytime I try to find a video or other post about this problem the tv internals look nothing like the inside of mine. Does anyone know where the backlight inverter would be located and how i could check to see if thats the problem? and if thats not the issue could someone explain where to go from there? I simply cannot afford another tv nor the repairs for someone else to do this.

What happens if you send square wave to PSU. I have AC coming from the grid in sine wave. Backup inverter turning it to square wave. That gets sent to UPS. Then the ups sends it to psu. (Sine form grid > to Square from inverter > UPS > PSU > pc) I don't know if ups turns the square wave coming from inverter to sine wave. If it does not then my psu is getting square wave. Is it bad? Bad for PSU or UPS or the PC itself? I dont know whats going on. And I dont really want to buy pure sine wave inverter, cause I just bought square wave one recently. Dont have the budget. Help me please. Forums dont have much discussion about it.

So, I use to have two APC SMT3000RM2U that I had modified with an external 100AH 48VDC SLA battery but after years of service the charge controllers in them died. So I started looking around for a set of replacements and was looking at the APC SRT3000RMXLA-NC on eBay, the price was a bit high for my taste, but not out of the question, the bigger problem being that it used a 96VDC battery pack and the extended runtime battery packs were expensive and you did not get a lot of run time for the cost. So I started looking around for alternatives, so down the internet rabbit hole I went, I looked at things like the AIMS Power PICOGLF120W48V240VS, but that was kinda too heavy for me to mount to the wall by myself. I looked at some of the Victron Energy stuff, neat ecosystem, but a bit rich for what I was looking for. Then I found two candidates for what I wanted, the MPP Solar PIP-LV-MK SERIES – ZERO TRANSFER TIME inverters and the Growatt 3kW Stackable Off-Grid Inverter | SPF 3000TL LVM-ES. Now I had narrowed down my inverter options I started looking at batteries, everything from Battle Born Batteries, SOK, Big Battery, and EG4. It seems like there is a pretty decent community around the different battery companies, but I ultimately went with the EG4-LL Lithium Battery | 48V 100AH battery for its BMS and built-in precharge resistor. The warranty was nice also, the shipping on it sucked though. (read expensive) So going with the EG4-LL kinda pushed me to the Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM-ES inverter for its ability to talk natively to the BMS on the battery vs the MPP Solar inverter that was a bit harder to find an online community around, but it was a good backup plan to have to incase the transfer time on the Growatt was not fast enough for my equipment. For some context, the Growatt’s transfer time is ~10 (average)-20 (max)ms compared to the 4(average)-8(max)ms that an APC UPS is. I also did a bit of research and found that most of my gear has a hold-up time of ~17ms, so I thought I would be pretty safe, but there is no telling how something will perform in the real world vs on paper. So I ordered everything through Signature Solar and then played the waiting game, the inverters came in 2-3 days via FedEx and the battery came about a month later (it was a pre-order, they sell out fast). While I was waiting on the battery I started a gsheet of all the different supplies and what not I would need. ( Whole Home UPS - Google Sheets 2 ) I already had some knukonceptz Power Cable from my car audio days, so that was a nice little savings. Once I get everything in, I started the project on the first free weekend I had, I am hella outta shape from covid times and never leaving the house so it took me longer than I want to admit to get it all done, but it is done and working as intended and now I have ~2.65 hours of battery backup for the rack and room to grow. The inverters are setup in a split-phase arrangement so I can power 120VAC and 240VAC stuff, might put the HVAC on this at a later date or I was also looking at a 48VDC mini-split I could power directly off the battery pack, you can put like 16? of these batteries in parallel with the BMS comms and they will work as one cohesive unit. I am open to any and all questions, here are some ugly pictures.

So I live in South Africa where they have been putting the power off for about 8 hours every day. I work from home and it's starting to effect my work... there is no way I will be able to afford solar so I feel like my options are between the following Buy a Laptop that can handle audio editing and some light video editing Or Buy an inverter with batteries that can power my current PC A generator is not an option since it will be way to expensive to keep it running I don't know enough about inverters to really make the decision on my own and when it comes to laptops I'm pretty clueless. Also with me living where I do Laptops are a lot more expensive than in America and Europe so it might be hard to help me decide on one but my Budget is just under $2000. I need my pc or laptop to last at least 6 hours If I need to post any extra info then I'll do that xD

-Hello internet buddies, i really don't know if this belongs here, 1st post here ever.. But here's my build plan, and any thoughts on it would be awesome. ~i got an ASUS tuf gaming f17 laptop, fx706hcb and mine came with a 180watt wall charger. I wanna play it in my car, so i bought a 500watt modified sine wave inverter from my local Oreilles and was going to install it in the back of my car, use it on road trips to play and charge my laptop, or maybe a light, or my m12 charger so i can use my work lights out camping, or whatever doesn't start peak over 500watt. ~my parts list so far- beefy automotive cables running from the cars battery to the middle. this case a 2019 outback with 130amp factory alternator. an in-line fuse of i dont know what kind of amperage. the inverter. a 40/45 amp? relay, and a light up switch so i know when it has power feeding to it or not. maybe a voltage gauge since the car stock doesnt have one (or i havent found it yet *facepalm*). ~ A story ~ Now ive grazed over the manual for my car and the factory 12v outlets AND usb ports should not exceed 120watt max total output. so i figure OK ill bite and put holes in the car for the inverter. so i ask someone about them doing the install for me and they say, yes but to save some money i could look into some 12v outlet chargers for my laptop since some police cars have that 12v outlet charger for them in it. but im thinking its no gaming laptop so how much power would theirs even need? well i googled it and i didnt like what was found so i call ASUS, got to a person, and asked if they sold a charger of that kind. Well the guy on the phone (i didnt have the laptop on me, i was on break at work when i called) just tells me i can use a regular usb to usb-c cable to connect the laptop usb-c to one of the cars (5v 2.4amp? i really dont know) usb ports and charge it that way. but that sounds kinda sketchy to me so i figure i ask the LTT internet for some thoughts on this plan of mine. maybe im missing somethin or not future acess proofing it or something. ~Anyway, thanks for reading. Have fun out there!

Hi, my name is Khai from Malaysia. I'm new in this forum and I need help, regarding my laptop display. My laptop is Dell Studio 1435. I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this. A little back story to my laptop. This is my first laptop that been given by my dad when I was 19. The laptop was previously used by someone in his company, and after fresh format. The new owner is me. The problem started couple years back then when the screen start showing few white lines in the middle of the screen. The problem escalated from few lines to covering up the whole display with flashing white lines. That's when I decided to sent my laptop to a repair shop. The owner of the shop said it was the LCD display was not functioning properly, due to my lack of knowledge (and ignorance), I decided to believe anything what the man said to me. Thus, it cost me MYR800 (more or less), with 2 month of warranty. Well, my laptop when back to normal, no white lines whatsoever. But, only for 2 months . The laptop worsened. Back then, laptop was a necessity in a university for assignments, reports, quizzes, annnnd some LAN party. My sister, apparently had a laptop to spare. A Dell Vostro 1320, which I'm still using up till now (I'm 23 btw). Little by little in my free time I'm figuring what went wrong with Dell Studio. Through some research and discussion (and dusting off) with Mr. Google and few of my friends. I have disassemble and re-assemble my laptop. What I have gathered, the problem lies either with the inverter or wiring. So, before I make any unnecessary purchases of parts for the repair. I need another opinion regarding with my predicament. This is my beloved Studio 1435. When the "flashing" occur, the display will suddenly hang(not sure if this the correct term) first, then the "flashing". The display is full of white lines, from top to bottom. Any input regarding this matter is much appreciated. Thank you.

hi know this is probably not the best place to ask this but this is the only place that has not removed one of my post for stupid reasons (like Reddit keeps doing for asking things) if their a better place to ask this pls redirect me instead of removing my post saying quoted form Reddit users ""my question is not direct enough"" i have a meanwell a3001-600-f3 that keeps tripping after 30 seconds on 400w load so i was wondering what it could be that is cousing it so that i can replace it bc repair stores near me ask me 80% of what a new inverter cost so i rather repair it myself can anyone help me fix this or at least what it could be i know their is risk in repairing this kind of things. i always ware gloves and discharge any capacitors hear is some photos dont wory abode the fan plug thats out i will fix that with a new fan

Hey, Just finished up a VERY ROUGH sketch of my half pricy DIY project in PCschematic, and it's been a long time since I used it so just wanted to know how it was looking, and if there were any errors in my drawing (thinking there might be xD) All feedback is very appreciated

recently got an Acer X223W, when I power it on, it goes black after 2 seconds. I still get a video signal, just no black light. I am thinking it is either bad back lights or a bad power inverted board. I am just doing my research before I order a replacement for it. Seeing I got it for free, if I can fix it; the person said I could keep it for free. Do you guys think it's a bad power inverter board?

Hi. My 2010 MacBook has had its screen displaying dimmer tham it should be. I am really peeved off about this, I have reset the PRAM and the SMC. Also the display profiles did nothing. Thanks, Alpha.

Hello, I wanted to build a mini pc within a pc, and have been doing some research : Thin mini itx motherboards use eDP, and newer laptop monitors ( 1080p 75hz ips from aorus or asus, 3k ips from aorus ) also use eDP, notably to be able to use G sync, Now, I know gsync isn't going to work as the scaler is built into the mobile gpu, but : could I connect one of the above panels to a thin mini itx mobo without having problems with power or other ? could I buy an inverter off ebay ( these don't state support for 75hz ) to be able to run the pannel off of normal display port ( use it as an external monitor ? )

Hey LTT Forums, I'm planning on lighting up the inside of my case with EL Wire. I need to power it with an inverter, and found one here that takes in 12 volts. Is there a place I can plug this in to my non-modular PSU safely? I have lots of spare connectors coming off of it. Thanks in advance. EDIT: I accidentally a word