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I have a USB that I have Ubuntu on, however, when trying to install the USB does not appear in the partition's, (should be sdb1 but only sda shows) It shows /dev/sda/ and all the partition's on it. But it does not show the sdb, however, since I am using the USB as the boot for Ubuntu, I get access denied whenever I try to add it to the partition's (Which is understandable) Therefore, I would like to know how I would be able to install Ubuntu from inside Windows itself. If it's possible that is. Thanks.

So until just saturday my 280x was working perfectly fine-ish, but when I tried to game on sunday it was like watching a powerpoint slideshow, I tested some more games and a benchmark today and they all crashed. It seems that my PC isnt even recognizing that I have a gpu plugged in. And so I took it out and put it back in, no change. I dont think its completely dead because my monitor would not work without it and the fans are spinning. Fellas? Edit: this has been fixed by deleting all my AMD files and reinstalling the drivers.

Hey all, I have been commissioned by my Father to completely re-do our home audio. Currently, we have an old Yamaha Audio Receiver (forgot the model) hooked up to 6 speakers built in to the wall. The wiring is Class 2 wiring. What my Dad wants to do is be able to connect wirelessly. This by itself would have been easy, all I would have had to do is put in an adapter. But what he wants to do is have speakers outside and when he changes the song inside on his phone via bluetooth, it changes outside aswell. I am a little lost as in how to do this. The speakers outside would be bluetooth. I was looking at this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075J4RKGH/ref=twister_B075N7RDQX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I'm not sure if that would do it, so my question is, how can I do this and what should I use to do it. Price isn't really an issue but try to keep it below $1000. Thanks!

Hi, looking to get an external Blu-Ray drive, any suggestions for budget option as I won't need to write onto disks, also would VLC be sufficient? or do I require other software as some reviews have mentioned online.

Hello once again LTT Forum! I have another pickle that I need some help solving. So i'm going to be modding my side panel to add a window but before I do I want to re cable manage my pc so it looks better. Only problem is that I don't have any zipties, any household replacements come to mind? Thanks, LukenotLucas UPDATE: Success for now, we'll see later next week when I replace the tape with zip ties but for now success! Also, There is no cable management holes in the back so thats why it looks the way it does!

Can we have a search this thread function? Let's say you're looking at this 900 pages long thread, and you want to find a specific content or all post by a specific member. Just type in what you want to search in the search box that's inside that thread, to give you the results you're looking for.

I have been wondering, since I will be building my first pc in the morning, whether I should install the cpu cooler inside the case onto the motherboard or outside the case. I have decided to test my build tomorrow outside the case, so I assume I need the cpu cooler installed in the first place, but are there any cons to installing it outside the case? To be specific, I will be using a cryorig h5 ultimate cooler on an asus z170-a motherboard in a fractal design define s. Thank you in advance.

So, ever since the Xbox one was released, and we knew it's dimensions, I was pretty certain a pc would fit in there. And so ever since I've been planning out how to optimize a build in there. I've had different idea's on how to make it possible, but yet it never quite fit. Then I finally decided to keep the psu out of the case (just like the xbox has) and work from there. And let me tell you there's a whole lot of room. So now finally the time has come to actually build the damn thing, and see if my planning is any good. So here's the component list: Case: Xbox one (off course) Mobo: Asus Maximus VII Impact CPU: Intel Core I5 4690k Memory: 16Gb Crucial Ballistix DDR3 1600MHz CL9 (Low profile) GPU: AMD R9 Nano PSU: SilverStone ST45SF-G (450W sfx, 80 plus gold) Storage: 750 GB WD Black 2,5" hdd + 250GB Samsung 850 EVO ssd + ......... Cooling: EK-FB ASUS M6I - Nickel, EK-XRES 100 DDC 3.2 PWM Elite, EK-FC R9 Nano - Nickel, EK-CoolStream PE 240, 2x Noctua NF-F12 HAHAHA...., really thought I was gonna give the surprise away???? HELL NO!! this joke makes no sense now, it's all there. Update #1 Update #2 Update #3 Update #4 Update #5 Update #5,5 Update #6 But first to start off with, the case. We all know how it looks but still I have to make some photo's right?? I got the case from ebay, and apparently the inner metal case was also included, but I won't be needing that. If YOU do, you know where to find me.(Filthy console peasant) Oh and by the way these feet are really sticky: So that was the outside, now let's go inside: And that was it for now. In the next update we're going to rip this thing apart. MUHAHAHAHA (insert devil emoticon) (WHAAAA, it's not here )

So I'm willing to transform my current ATX PC (https://pcpartpicker.com/b/m2Cypg) into a small living room console. My pick for the case was the Fractal Design Node 202 /w Integra FSX 450W PSU. It's the most satisfying for the eyes, yet it's small, everything fits greatly inside and it looks the closest to a console. I have my Intel Core i5-4690K, my MSI GTX 960 4G and 8GB of Corsair Vengeance LP from my previous build. What I have to buy is a new 2,5" hard drive, two 120mm fans for extra airflow and a new motherboard. I'm having a bit of a problem with these parts. Could you recommend me some black, quiet budget fans? I'm also lost with the motherboard. It must be mini-ITX (obviously), it should have SATA 3, PCI-E 3.0, USB 3.0, LGA-1150. Even though I have an unlocked processor, I'm not looking forward to overclock. (I just got it because there was a great deal going on, and it was cheaper than the locked one ) It must also have 2 USB headers, because I like to keep everything clean, so I would like to hide the Wi-Fi dongle and the XBOX 360 controller receiver inside the case. (Also do you have any recommendations on how should I use to do this?) I was thinking about an Asrock H81M-ITX, but it lacks the double USB headers I was talking about. Thanks for the help!

Hello, I recently got a camera but i am kinda worried because it sounds like there is a ball bouncing around. Is that something bad? Thanks, LiquidGoo

So I have a big black external WD hard drive. I store all of my games on it, but it's bottle necked by it's USB 2.0 interface. I know with some if not most external hard drives you can take them apart and on the inside it's the same as an internal HDD. I would like to do this accept there isn't any screws or anything to take it apart with on the outside which leads me to believe there's just a WD Green in there that they're trying to hide. Any ideas on how I might find out or how I might take it apart?

So Here is my review on the Audtio Technica ATH-M50x So the first thing you might notice is that these have no cable, the original m50's had a fixed cable which could be bought in a coiled or a straight version. The new "x" version comes with 3 detachable cables, one is coiled, one is a short straight one (about the length of apple earbud cables) and finally a long straight one about 3 meters long. It is good enough to put into you soundcard at the back of your pc and give you plenty of room to move. The detachable cabe is actually great. I leave one in my computer, one in my guitar amp (it comes with the 1/4" adapter, though they are standard 3.5mm), and i leave my short one with my headphones. These headphones work fine on mobile and my old ipod shuffle has enough juice to make them decent (not uncomfortable, but loud enough that it sounds great). The earcups are the main complaint of the headphones. The clamping pressure is kind of tight, and these things are rock hard. The deathadder 2013 doesn't compress it at all, and it springs back immediately. If you are planning on buying these, replacement earcups are a must. I believe that anything that works on the original m50 would work on these, This is what the connection to the headset looks like . It is fairly strong and I can attach it and deatach them without takign them off. This makes them a lot easier to fit in a backpack. I wouldn't recommend using the bag it comes with because it probably only protects the headphones from a strong breeze. The headphones are built great, but the bag is made from the same crappy materials used on the earcups. After taking off the earcups, you see the driver cover. If you think it looks like it protrudes out too much, you would be right. The cups are too thin to take your ears away from it, so if you have normal ears they can be uncomfortable. If you have monkey ears it is probably worse. I have heard buying aftermarket earcups fixes this problem for most people. The inside of the headphones look pretty normal like most headphones. The foam they used is very hard, and I don't know if that is a good thing. The screwdriver is to show just how hard the foam is. I am putting a large amount of force on that, and it seemed like it would break if I put any more force on it. I am not going to comment on the sound. Everyone has heard of the sound quality of the m50's and these are just more of the same. If you are looking for gaming headphones these are not them. Buy something with a mic on it because the sound quality isn't that much better than some good gaming headphones. I have the PC350, and though the warranty sucks on them, they are great as gaming headphones. here is the link to the gallery of all of these images plus a bonus one. http://imgur.com/a/ZZz1r