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I'm hoping someone might know what's causing this. My computer has been having this issue where I can power it off but cannot power it back on without resetting my surge protector. I'm on this computer as I write this. It runs perfectly fine and there are no indications it's struggling for power or anything else is struggling peripherally. All fans are running, all lights work, nothing sounds or seems off about it at all. If I turn off the computer and try to turn it back on, it appears as though there's no power and the computer refuses to respond at all. I suspect the issue may be the surge protector as when I reset it, the issue corrects itself. I believe I have a number of power hungry items and this is resulting in the PC becoming sensitive to the power being consumed by the other items on the same surge protector. I have my PC I have two screens screens I have my Rodecaster Pro ii I have my internet routers I also have two peripherals attached to the computer (An Elgato Stream Deck and a Key Light) My Surge Protector is a - APC Surge Protector Power Strip with a 4320 Joule capacity. This in turn plugs into a TESSEN brand smart outlet box on my wall outlet. The plug the surge protector is connected to is not one of the smart outlets. Obviously, there can be something wrong with the computer as well but the fact this issue was tied to my surge protector makes me think it's external. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on what I can do or what tests I can run to rule out any bigger issues. If it does turn out it's a surge protector, is there a higher capacity one you can suggest which may help prevent this going forward? Edit: I unplugged my Rodecaster Pro ii and my entire system booted up. It's not the computer. It's a conflict with the power draw of the Rodecaster competing with my computer.
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I want to add a motion detector to the sealing lights at my home but I am getting confused and don't know what they are called somewhere it seems to be pir sensor and other says microwave sensor . I don't know which one is use for what ur help will be appreciated. I have attached image of something and want to know is this the right thing. I would also appreciate any recommendations u have
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I'm beside myself. I've looked up guides, and I can't get the lights on this ceiling fan to work. This is the only way I've gotten the fan (not the light) to turn on. From the ceiling I have beige, beige, black, and a white which is connected in the ceiling to a bare for ground. It's a single switch, so I don't have separate switches for light and fan. I think the second beige continues to a wall outlet. Connected this way, the fan works and all my outlets work. I have found no guide that shows what I'm seeing, and any other way of connecting anything I've tried trips my breaker. I don't know. Can anyone tell me what to do?
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I have a home lab which I use to test software, host websites, docker containers, and serve media files using Jellyfin. It's an old gaming rig with the following specs: CPU: Core i7 6800K Motherboard: MSI X99A Godlike Gaming RAM: 16 GB DDR4 2666 MHz (2* 8) GPU: GT 710 PSU: Thermaltake TR2 S Series 550W I am running Ubuntu server OS. During the summer season, I am facing some extended power outages every few days in the week. I want to make sure that my server automatically turns on after power is restored. I was thinking of building an electrical module with a relay switch and connecting it to the power supply and the power switch pin in the motherboard. But I am not an electric engineer, so I am not sure if this will work. I am asking if anyone has a solution using off-the-shelf components first. If not I would love to get some directions on how to build the module. N.B.: I do have an 2000VA offline UPS, it can't provide enough backup.
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Hello, I have just installed my brand new Samsung Odyssey Neo G9 monitor and almost immediately I started to notice a sound best described as a static or electric sound like when you touch a metal object and it shocks you. The sound comes around about every 10-20 seconds. I narrowed it down to be coming from the monitor as the sound stops when I turn the monitor off specifically it comes from the right side of the the monitor from the back. I searched online and found a temporary solution where I disconnect the monitor from power and press the power button for 10 seconds which is supposed to close the circuit and drain the static. This worked but only temporarily as soon the noise was soon back. I wanted to seek help to see if anyone has had this problem and hopefully managed to find a permanent solution for it. I just got this monitor and I'm now reluctant to power it on fearing that I might damage it. Your help and tips are appreciated. Information that maybe relevant: The monitor is mounted on a metal "pole" attached to my my wooden desk I have two monitors mounted vertically atop of one anther on the same metal "pole" I have a desk light halo bar mounted on the monitor. I removed it and the sound persisted The power source is on the same desk and the PC is standing on the desk There is a soundbar, phone charger, laptop sitting on the same desk
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Hello, Need help understanding the root cause of the problem I have my computer connected to the battery side of a UPS power supply. (CyberPower 1500VA 10-Outlet UPS Battery Back-Up (LX1500GU-FC)) But anytime I turn on my dryer or oven in my house the UPS turns itself off (needing manually restart the UPS) and all connected device is cut from power, UPS battery is full, but it does not switch over to battery. They are not on the same circuit breaker, I checked. If I turn off the circuit breaker, the UPS keeps the computer powered on battery fine, just not when a motor or oven turns on. Isn't that what UPS is for? To keep the computer powered during a surge or outage? Is my UPS defective or is this an electrical issue with the house? Thanks,
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Motherboard and/or PSU Problems
Black_Chair_N_Socks posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
So I have a custom built and have been using it for a few months. The last few times I've unplugged it to add parts or clean the area I've seen a flash of light and heard a sound that I thought might be electrical buzzing. When I unplug the computer I: 1. Shutdown the computer. 2. Flip the PSU power switch. 3. Unplug the power cable from the PSU. Whenever I turn it back on I just do the reverse; plugging the power cable into the PSU and then switching the power switch. After hitting the switch the RGB on my board and CPU fan flash for a moment, then go off. None of the fans activate, just RGB. I ended up taking the motherboard out of the case and shorting the power switch rods and the computer turned on, but it wouldn't boot to my SSD boot drive. I could see all drives I had attached under my I/O connections in the Bios, but couldn't boot to them. The contents of my SSD drive were still there so I just back it up and reinstalled windows. My current issue is that I: 1. Can't turn my computer on via the case power button after putting it back in the case. 2. I don't trust the power supply since the problem started presumably with it. I have protection on the PSU and can claim it to get another, but I'm not sure how to test it besides shorting the 4th and 5th pin (which worked, the fan moved and stopped since the PSU has a zero spin feature). Is it maybe possible the cable for the power button got fried if the PSU was acting up? I also have protection on the case (I thought the glass on it would break first, definitely worth now). It's also really concerning my SSD still had the OS and everything on it, but wasn't seen as a bootable drive. The SSD seems to be functioning fine as of right now though. When the motherboard was out of the case I noticed I have RGB lights on the back of my motherboard and since they also flash when I turn on the PSU that could have been the flash I noticed when it was inside the case. The RGB on the board flashes one 1 color, but it's different sometimes and I've seen it be just white. That's probably what I saw through the case's I/O slots and hopefully not flashes of electricity. I also didn't notice any burns on the motherboard, but please let me know if there are any specific spots I should give a check closely. I especially want some advice on how to test the power supply. I don't have any electrical test tools or another Mobo to swap out. I'm open to some affordable tool suggestions and obviously the cheapest way to solve this issue is to make sure I don't fry my system, so please throw your suggestions at me. Case: Antec Dark League DF700 FLUX mid tower CPU: Intel i7-11700k Cooler: Cooler Master MasterAir MA620M Dual Tower ARGB PSU: Corsair RM850 CP-9020196-NA Drives: WD Black SN850 1TB, Seagate Barracuda HDD 4TB ST4000DM004, Barracuda HDD 1TB Motherboard: Z590 Aorus Elite Graphics card: Gefore 3060 Asus Ram: G.Skill Ripjaw V series 32GB- 1 reply
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For the past 2 days I've been hearing these electrical sounds while I'm asleep at night and it's been bothering me, I thought that the noise was coming from the plug multiplier and today I changed it with a new one but I noticed the sound didn't go away, so it had to be something else. I inspected it further and realised it's actually coming from my power supply. It's not a consistent noise, it doesn't happen all the time, just at random. It doesn't matter if I have my PC on or off for it to happen, as long as the power cord is connected to the plug the PSU makes this noise, hence why it was bothering me in my sleep. I put my phone under the PSU and recorded the noise to show it to you guys, I'll upload the audio file below if you are curious. It seems like this noise issue doesn't effect my computer's performance at all, at least for now. I'm typing this on the same computer with cracky-noise PSU and been using it past 2 days not knowing the issue and nothing seems damaged. But the PSU is still under warranty so maybe I should send it to get a new one? Is it dangerous to use my computer now? What are your thoughts? So far I've tried plugging a different cable to the PSU, and I blew some air in it via hair dryer to make the dust go away. Sadly the problem still persists. This is my PSU Voice_001_sd.wav
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My psu after a power outage 3 days ago started doing this : The noise comes for around 6 to 7 seconds as i mentioned then disappears for possibly days..i don't know what to do my psu is FSP HEXA+ 550W
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So, I'm wanting to wire a car Cigarette lighter to a Molex 12v plug on my desktop psu. Will it work as normal, it would require any resistance or special circuitry like regulators or anything? It's a 650W psu, and only about 450-500W are being used total by my computer. Though, I'm currently turning a old 550W PSU into a bench DC PSU.
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Happy new year everyone! I have a problem with my PSU unit. It is EVGA Nex650g 80+ Gold rated. It makes barely audible electrical noises. Does it when idle and under load. Doesn't make it continuously, it is arythmic, comes and goes, i have a video, if you ignore fan noise, it will be audible. What may be the problem? Thanks in advance. VID-20210101-WA0000.mp4
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Hi I'm looking for some helpim planning on building my own pc case and is there any way to have 4 switches to turn on a PSU then pump then lights then pc monitor then I will need a momentary switch to turn on the mb ? I want each switch to turn on something different
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Good afternoon, I recently upgraded to a MSI Ventus 2x 3070. Since upgrading, I have noticed that the two wall lamps I have flicker when my computer system is under load. They are both running 4W Dimmable LEDs (GE Vintage Style LED Light Bulbs), and are both run through a Lutron Credenza LED+ dimmer switch. My initial troubleshooting attempts involved swapping out the bulbs, but that did not make a difference. I then suspected it was a circuit issue, so I ran an extension cord and hooked the two lamps up to a different circuit in the house. This seemed to fix the issue for the most part. However, today while rendering a video and playing a game at the same time, the lights started flickering again. Could this be some kind of EMI or grounding issue? My PSU is a 600w, which I think should be sufficient for the load coming from my 3070. Any thoughts? Let me know if this is not the proper forum for these questions. The issue only started happening when I upgraded my GPU. I did have the occasional flicker with my previous GPU, but they were few and far between.
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i am wiring some slide potentiometers to build my own audio mixer and was wondering what would i solder a "mute" button on to ,either the analog or the vcc wire
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i finished my build lately but i got problem here or is it normal when i switched on psu the rgb light start flashing, is it safe? its run normal tho. im using corsair rm750e sorry for my bad english *ignore the switches sound VID_20221209082151.mp4
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It has an i5 6400 using the stock cooler, h110 motherboard, 16gb of ram reused, 400w evga powersupply, one of my SSDs I don't use and a very cheap case that I don't know its name. I just want to have a low power consuming pc for Hurricane season.
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I have checked and its not a grounding problem with my outlet or surge protector, I feel it might be a problem with the psu. I am asking for help bc a while ago I was troubleshooting my pc I had left it plugged in by accident and got a tingling feel when I touch it, I quickly move my hand out of there and left me scared for a while. also I had both the psu and surge protector turned off.
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Hello, I have been having this issue sporadically for about a year now. At first it was very rare, however its been happening more frequently now (around once or twice ever 2 weeks). Randomly, especially while playing games, my pc will just... restart. it will then boot back up, no blue screen, nothing. I even checked event viewer and i cant see anything that it would say is wrong apart from an unexpected restart. Now, to explain everything might be a bit long but before that below are my PC specs: GPU - MSI 2070super CPU - AMD 5800x MoBo - Gigabyte X570 I Memory - G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB PSU - Cooler Master V850 SFX GOLD 850 W Case - Cooler Master NR200P CPU Cooler - Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 running two monitors, 1440 and a 1080 If I have missed any other useful specs you can let me know. When I first built my PC on the 11th of January 2020, I encounter a blue screen after 30 minutes of usage. This problem was caused by my memory not being supported at 3600Mhz. To fix this, I underclocked it to 3200Mhz and have kept it there ever since without issue. (Originally my specs had the ryzen 3600 and a 750W corsair PSU. I was also using the NZXT H200 case) Even back then, I did sometimes have this random restarts issue, although it was much more rare than now. Fast forward to when I replaced my case, CPU, and PSU, I accidentally used my CableMod cable from my old corsair PSU on my GPU. At this time, the PC would simply not turn on, and my new PSU would make a *click* noise and then a light on the MoBo would blink. After 5 minutes of googling I found the issue, replaced the cable with the one that came with my Cooler Master PSU and turned it on with no issue. After a few days, while gaming, my PC would randomly restart. No errors, no blue screen, even Event Viewer wouldnt say anything other than unscheduled restart. So, I ran MemTest over night (8hrs) and got zero errors. And here I am today. Writing this after yet another random restart in the hopes someone might be able to give me an idea of what is causing my PC to restart. This happened on my old PSU and CPU as well as my new ones. I also cant exactly replicate the restart cause i dont know what causes it to restart. I should also add, that my temps under load are pretty good for a small form factor case. My CPU never goes above 75c and my GPU never goes above 81c. Honestly the only thing left that might be causing the issue could be the electric outlet / the electricity coming from the outlet to the PSU. Unfortunately I cant really fix that and I have no idea to test if my home electricity isnt stable or something. I was posting on here to ask if failing hardware somewhere could cause random restarts without errors. I have updated drivers and BIOS. Could I have damaged my GPU with the wrong cable incident? Will a UPS solve the issue? If so, which UPS would you recommend as I have no clue about UPS's. I have attached the HWMonitor after doing a 3DMark timespy run as well as the timespy score incase that helps anyone. Sorry for such a long post here. I just want to put all the info I have out there in the hopes someone might have an Idea to the issue that's better than those non-descript websites that list the same trial and error solutions over and over. Thank you, Fudge HWMonitor_11-10-22_3dmarktimespy.txt
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Hey everyone so I recently upgraded the built in cooler in my Deepcool genome 1 as it's 4+ years old and Deepcool isn't considered the most reliable brand. But while swapping things over I noticed something werid. The front LEDs that would pulse periodically were actually connected to the water pump. I don't know if they receive power or if it was a sensor merely to tell the lights when to pulse. I mateched the cables by color and removed the unnecessary 2 cables on the fan connector, and soldered them together. I am wondering if this will work or if im going to just overvolt something by using my ghetto adapter.
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Budget (including currency): Unknown Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Basic Photo/Video editing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hello, So I am currently planning a build that involves an iMac G3. I want to retrofit a modern hackintosh inside and want to mount an lcd panel to replace the screen that is installed. My plan is to use a 13inch 16:9 screen and add bezels on the side. The issue I am running into while planning it out is powering the screen. I found a few LCD panels that can fit as well as control boards with HDMI out. These control boards require a DC 12V connection to power the screen. I am aware the 6 pin connector on a power supply can supply 12V and was wondering how likely as well as difficult it would be to rig this up. I have no electrical background what so ever. I know it would be easier to run a 2nd power cable out of the back of the system to power the monitor but I would like to make the computer as minimum as possible with the exception of being able to connect a 2nd screen (because come on, 13 inches isn't enough). Is this plan far fetched or do I have the right idea on how to achieve this. Control Board - https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-LP133WF4-1920X1080-EDP-Screen-LCD-LED-HDMI-VGA-controller-board-DIY-kit/163224891699?hash=item2600f63133:m:mcO81ChL-ToxuaZrPdmnZOQ&autorefresh=true LCD Panel - https://www.ebay.com/itm/13-3-IPS-LCD-Display-Screen-LP133WF4-SPB1-for-Lenovo-Ideapad-710S-1080P-30pins/202515551015?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f26de1327:g:OVwAAOSwPEhcf2nD&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKxIntehGqQQl8nLx%2FEZs3RgioO0JxRNPl0aEhWcYdYNcamRgpiFHfEU%2F%2FGNLQhfYwX0eGUeK4ENfdDDHJ44xg%2FNFJSqBRSQYm%2FJvjrv8Fo%2FRTC2s74%2BZk9FSmCGINxNdtE6hteC7aoI6QU7Kst%2BmzdRnoSgZdn032TLjYBG0d6uhLaA3S5754Sod6YJV0dKMiRB6XsL4Cam0zNV5b9A0dZh0g4EUVcH2jy8nWj5zRN4ug%2FX9dGbmP1UB6fHKgzPhcjKjqeHYkBZmzYr5Bq4uVYv5cWrcl377YeWiYwqm6pwffrPyCXZqsj1M2aWETACjzJ510vs9M0%2BSYU8sbK5pMOTvyf2ReAxPgBckC54KWOGaTXlr5eR9%2FzGJW4RlQ%2BuzmFz0pKz1jKm%2FdjncCym0a4ovSgmiZLVNfXdEfqnvZAJPkr4qmNfsT3Z1dcKmpOlpPV334CIQyet%2BT%2Fn3zhS4l0kl4NDvARNOD%2BIonuXU9L%2FAfg9zLBWw0EOPoNcsLc0j10NzBo136xAIDD0FOy8k0vq3q64OaxyS%2F7eCak2sVr5vbnXamRCjngPdhcyCW2X6ThSp%2FQZZCi3a31JYV33Wrpnp2DfS3KJqG98smZFmJs9OjFOCQNa5L83Okdu3JVUFBpLevnWV8iKtk5m4S9xK9ZwLagxyKpHcJiGKQWpngf7g6xTZqaj6Bu2VU6MzRgNjCUXScYZ%2BRvqyh%2FOKBX6rrUh4RFtkwtmSYPkcX%2BD9z%2Fl6tij%2BlLIQpLMU1uHES4oeW&checksum=2025155510156c474662d03342598810a85ab516f189
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Hey guys, need help on buying a charger for my laptop. The battery is an 11.1V 4400mAh 48.84Wh battery. My old charger outputs at 19V 4.74A 90W. Heard that I should buy the same voltage to have a safe charging. What voltage is that? Should I buy a charger that outputs at around 11.1V or higher? Is using a higher V bad? Is using a charger higher than 90W bad? Im very not knowledgeable about this. Thank you
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Hey guys. I am a graduate student and I am studying electrical engineering in VLSI design. A lot of my school work is focused around projects based on simulations on Cadence, Gem5 (simulator of virtual processors), report writing, web browsing and lots of coding. I am looking for laptop that could handle these tasks smoothly and have good battery life. My budget is 800 bucks. What kind of laptops should I look into? dual core / quad core, 4 Gb/ 8 Gb, SSD or HDD. I will be using both Windows 10 and ubuntu in the same laptop. Thanks in advance. Kartik
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Is it normal for a ups like the APC 1500VA UPS to put voltage into the ground. I was told they tested the devices and found that every ups in the building was putting approx 15v 1 amp into the ground. Again I was told this second hand and am a bit confused myself if this is how the ups are supposed to function. Any clarification would be nice.
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Hello, I need your help. it started 3 or 4 months ago, after a year of usage my gigabyte z390 aorus pro started to buzz heavily from the VRM area on the IO side, but not idle, the idle sound is minimal and I'd have to nitpick and get real close to hear it. the electrical sound only ramps up in Game, a heavy game... like Division 2 or Destiny 2, anything heavier than Diablo 2 or Synthetik. I've tried everything, disabled CPU boost, checked the PSU cables, sent the GPU, CPU, PSU and MOBO to RMA... got a new MOBO the 1st time I RMA'd (same model), still buzzing sound in games. sent it to RMA again, got a new MOBO and MSI this time, still buzzes. changed RAM to 2400 instead of 3200, disconnected the Corsair AIO RGB usb cable, changed PSU CPU power cable, even after RMA-ing everything. twice they said everything was ok, and they can't hear buzzing while testing it all. I don't know what to do. updates BIOS, downgraded BIOS... changed wall sockets, changed monitors, changed PC power cabels, changed DP screen cables. (all this after RMA, I still have warranty). reinstalled windows... disabled XMP... everything, tried everything I could. changed extension cords... everything. next thing I'm trying is changing the cooler, disabling all the RGB and RGB hub. Funny thing, IDK if it's a problem, but the CPU is base 3.6k and boost 4.7k Ghz, but it boosts on its own to 4840Ghz and a little beyond, I'm confused. Spec: MOBO - MSI z370 gaming pro carbon CPU - 9900k RAM - G.skill tridentZ 3200Mhz GPU - Asus Strix 2080ti SSD - Samsung 850 EVO 250Gb M.2 - Samsung 970 EVO plus NVMe 500Gb PSU - seasonic focus plus platinum 850W CPU cooler - Corsair H115i RGB PLATINUM 280mm AIO Got 3 Corsair ML RGB fans connected too, and a fan hub and the RGB controller that comes with the Corsair stuff and it's in a corsair case... not that it matters, it's a 500D. and the Screen is an Asus with G-syinc... I'm adding all this because I'm very desperate. Last note... it does not buzz (the VRM area near IO) when I bench in Cinebench or FurMark, but it does in 3Dmark. Again, the PSU, GPU, CPU, and MOBO got RMA'd, everything came back working and no noise was reported.RAM got changed, cables got changed. I would be very thankful for any help, I don't know what to do and I have a $3000 netflix watching brick on my desk. Listen in a higher volume, I recorded it not so great... but trust me, it sounds like a taser. opened and closed case.
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