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Showing results for tags 'die'.
Found 25 results
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Hi guys, trying to overclock my Ram but coming across a problem when running Thaiphoon. It gives me that Manufacturer Hynix but when i want to know the die type this is what its giving me H5AN8G8N??R-TFC any ideas on how i can find out the right die
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Hello everyone, I was searching for a good RAM stick and I came along some weird naming convention of Samsung. They have some sticks with the same specs but different names. The M471A2K43CB1-CTD, M471A2K43DB1-CTD and M471A2K43EB1-CTD. Appearantely the only difference is the 10th character which is a c, d or e. Does anyone have an idea, what they mean? Thank you.
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So, I was cleaning my brother's laptop when I noticed something rather concerning. One of the CPU dies, sitting just under the Heatpipe, connected to it by a nice layer of air, which as far as I remember, doesn't conduct heat very well. Now, I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination but, Aren't dies those things made of billions of teeny tiny transistors, which are constantly moving electrons around, causing them to be the most heat-producing component in a pc? Have I missed something? Did Acer create a new thermodynamically impossible wireless heat transfer technology? A can of propylitic alcohol and a syringe of NT-H2 are already on their way, but I wanted to ask your opinions before I ruin Acer's wireless heatsink. Is there really such a thing as a die that doesn't require cooling? Shoul I use an heat pad instead?
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I'm currently working on an essay about how technology has become more affordable and opened the doors to different creative processes over the last 20 years, and have spent countless hours researching processors new and old. The last bit of information I need is a percentage yield rate for the Core i9 13900K, that's to say the average percentage of functional processors from each silicone wafer. It doesn't need to be directly from intel, but I don't have the knowledge to make an estimate, so any information would be appreciated. Thanks! -
Hello, Is touching the cpu die (on a dead cpu) dangerous to you or is it safe. If it is safe, how do i expose the die on a Celeron 550 (mobile)
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Hello I've been looking around the web for the dimensions (length x width) for the package and the die of the GP102-350-K1-A1 (GeForce GTX 1080 Ti) and/or the GP102-450-A1 (Nvidia Titan Xp), and so far, Google has only returned area size of the die in mm2, which tells me nothing of the width and height of the package. I can try and extrapolate the thickness myself, so don't worry. Measurements have to be in millimeters.
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Hi, I'm weighing the options for delidding and I'm curios about 2 things. #1. How often does intel 3 year limited warranty come in handy? I mean how often does an i7-7700k just stop working and the warranty is useful. #2. If I bought my cpu off amazon, and I delid, and my cpu dies, does amazon warranty still count? Btw I'm using an i7-7700k Thanks
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I have two dead Opteron 6276 laying around that were recently replaced with two 6172's as twin 16 cores lead to some system instability with my board of choice. So i had been looking around on the internet about how delid and seeing if it is worth it as i have a 7600k that is surprisingly warm even compared to my old fx-8320. So that got me thinking about these huge Socket G34 Operons, quick google search and in images, i could not find a single slide from AMD on the bare die of this particular cpu family let alone anyone who has taken off the IHS which is soldered on, never could find any information on that either. After finding out that i could not fit a razor blade between the glue on the IHS and PCB i took it to a vise to get a blade in. After cutting all around and knowing i was all the way in, i had to use a lighter to undo the soldering and boom the IHS just pretty much slid off. One of the little transistors or whatever those are around the silicon did break off, but its all fine since it was dead. For my first Delid i guess it went well? let me know what you guys think.
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Afternoon, I have recently completed my first custom water loop consisting of a dual radiator setup with a CPU and GPU block. Before all this I delided my 7960X but I haven't managed to get a great result (It's better but not as good as I was expecting) with liquid metal. In a couple of months time I am planning on redoing my loop as I made a couple of poor choices in regards to the reservoir layout and sharp bends as I forgot to buy 90 degree fittings. While my loop is drained I am thinking about getting a direct die frame for my processor and mounting my existing monochrome block but I am not sure if it will work as it also cools the VRMs as well. My block is https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-rog-r6e-monoblock-nickel Does anyone know if the block will fit/work with the VRMs when attached directly to the CPU die? I assume the block will sit slightly lower to compensate for the IHS but i'm not sure how much lower. Thanks, Scott -
Hey guys, I have a 7700k that i use for gaming, recordinng, streaming, editing well, making gaming videos. i have already delided, put conductnaut liquid metal, lapped the IHS and used kryonaut thermal paste with a 240mm aio(that i plan to replace one day for a full hard tubing watercooling system) and i wanted to take it to the next level so i bought a direct die guard but i taught about the video of der8auer who lapped his die of his cpu but he said he didn't know what could be the long therm problem associated with that. is there anyone who already tried it for a real day to day use not just a bench that you build for a week. did you see anything after a long period of use(like 1-2years) have you got any trouble with it? anything i should know before buying all the tools needed? p.s. i just want my computer to be as much over the top of what a normal setup would be, this is my thing ? Link if the video:
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I was mid game in rainbow six siege when all of a sudden the game froze and only displayed red green and blue colored pixels so I restarted my PC. When I booted it up again the resolution randomly changed to 800x600 from 1920x1080 so I changed it back to 1920x1080. When I did the screen had a bunch of white lines everywhere. I tried updating drivers as well reinstalling them completely. When I opened 3D mark it said I had no compatible benchmarks as my system did not have enough vram. I don’t know if my 2080 died and need help fixing whatever went wrong.
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I'm currently trying to figure out what die my memory uses. I have G.Skill's Ripjaws V 3200MHz (F4-3000C15D-16GVKB). I would appreciate if someone were to just tell me, but it would be more helpful to know where to find this information (I will need to find this info for other RAM kits soon). I didn't see it listed anywhere on G.Skill's product page. Thanks for the help
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Hi guys, My system is a Cpu; I5 5600 MOBO; GA-Z270-Wifi Video card: Msi GTx 1050 ti Ram: 8gb Corsair Vengeance ram 2400mhz (2x4gb) Psu: 450w fractal design Semi-modular Psu Storage: 500gb sandisk SSD, 1tb western digital hard drive Fans: Stock cpu cooler, one 140mm fan, one 120mm fan Case: Fractal design Nano s I recently won a asus GTX 1070 Strix OC 8gb, and installed it into my pc, I dont get any output. (lights turn on) Things i did Reseated GPU Check power connections Retried putting in gtx1050ti and i get an output Put 1070 in and no output Installed Drivers Flashed bios Disabled onboard graphics Reinstalled drivers Tried other monitors Tried other hdmi Retried everything again Any Help would be much appreciated
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So... I was testing old Pentium III board with some power supply what i found on bottom of my pc stuff box... I plugged in my monitor to this board with VGA. DVI input of monitor was still connected into my main dektop PC what was turned off. Few seconds after booting old board, F**ING POWER SUPPLY EXPLODED (two fat condensators to filter 230V ). Fuses have fallen in the whole house. Old motherboard not died, monitor not died, but as you already know from title, my poor GTX 970 from my desktop died (probably). Some high voltage had to pass through the monitor via VGA to DVI to GPU My desktop works well on integrated graphics (so whole computer not get shocked), but GPU have absolutely no output signal on any ports and its not visible in Windows Device Manager. It seems pretty dead (up to the LED logo and fans) Any idea how to try fix it? (And don't say bake it for few minutes in oven ) If there is no solution and I must say bye, is better to wait for 11xx generation, or buy 1060/1070 now? I am holiday gamer but I heavily use Photoshop and Unity3D so I need power what Intel 530 cannot deliver. Thanks for answers PS: Some images of the disease:
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Hello, When I tried flying my Skyviper V2450GPS, The battery kept on changing from 87 to 75, then 3(?), then 12%. Then it says it tries to come back, but it flies away from me and tries to crash into the biggest tree it can find. I don't know why these batteries are doing this. I bought 2 more batteries from toys r us and they still have the same problem. I'm worried that that the drone might break and that I might lose my money. Please help me as I've spent a good amount of money on this drone and its batteries and the drone keeps thinking that the batteries are at EXACTLY 12% until you disconnect and reconnect the batteries. Even then, it goes back to 12% and then stops working. It then proceeds to "return" to me but instead flies into a bunch of trees past a wall. -
Pc crashes under moderate load and turns off. Then fails to boot afterward. Specks : CPU : AMD Athlon X4 860K Kaveri Quad-Core 3.7 GHz (not overclocked) GPU : XFX Core Edition, Radeon R7 250 (not overclocked) 8GB Adata ram
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I have two question and it would help me if you had some answers... what is the biggest area for a cpu or gpu die (no xeon phil), is it the nehalem eight core processor (684mm sq) ? what is the max bandwidth of 4 gddr5 x32 8Gb/s chip that ar in parrallel ? (64, 128, 256, 512 or 1024 Go/s) thank you very much I appreciate !
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Hello guys quick question once again: I am confused what HDD to buy so its up to you. I am confused, because someone told me that Seagate HDD's are more likely to die or to have issues than WD. - Seagate 2TB 7200rpm 64MB 70€ - Western Digital Green 2TB 5400rpm 32MB 74€ - Western Digital WD Blue 1TB 7200rpm 64MB 45€ OR - Western Digital WD Re 2TB 7200rpm 128MB 150€
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Hey guys, Windspeed36 posted this in his status update, but I felt like making a thread on it just for those who aren't his friend (who wouldn't be? But wtv). Here's the kickstarter (8 days left as of posting) It's basically a mixture of a zombie survival game and Minecraft. It's as awesome as it sounds.
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A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a Kickstarter for a voxel-based game titled "7 Days to Die" and kind of shrugged it off as one of those games that, well it looked OK and was getting A LOT of support (about 250% of the Kickstarter goal http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/7daystodie/7-days-to-die-zombie-survival-game/posts/574089) but just seemed like another Minecraft ripoff (of which I have experienced quite a lot on the XBL Indie Marketplace). After seeing the Kickstarter tick away and various videos from quite big Youtubers I decided to buy into the Alpha after the Kickstarter was finished (no badge for me ) and gave it a go. I see a lot of potential with the game as far, it is in Alpha Build One currently and has been Greenlit on Steam, too, meaning that before long it should be a retail release on the Steam Marketplace. I would recommend anybody to buy into the alpha, but before you venure too far too quickly may I first point out that it is in alpha and is quite barebones and glitchy at the moment, but I can't wait to see what the community does with the game thorugh mods and what the developers actually add to it! So if you want to see what it is fully all about there's this link: http://7daystodie.com/ and also a "First Impressions" video by FRANKIEonPCin1080p: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2P3gr92Ap8 Thanks!
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Here is the post on their website. This is a pretty big update in that I know people who weren't interested so long as it looked like Minecraft. It's basically still Minecraft with Zombie tower Defense, but now without the Voxel based layout AFAICT. Basically, they are trying to get the update out before February is over, but it is coming soon. Just thought it was cool and some people would be interested in this info who aren't following it. Things being added in this update: Smooth Terrain (also redecorated with objects) New Cooking/Chemistry system New Lighting system New Stealth System (Distract zombies with rocks and such) More in their post above. -
It turns out AMD has been holding back, a Hawaii GPU actually has 3072 GCN cores, 256 more than the R9 290X. AMD hasn't introduced a graphics card based on a fully unlocked Hawaii GPU yet, likely due to yield issues similar to Nvidia's early yield issues with GK110. This discovery came in light of a reverse engineered Hawaii GPU, which revealed what the floor plan actually looks like. This is likely why AMD did not release die shots for the Hawaii GPU when it launched the R9 290X and the R9 290 back in October. AMD will likely release fully unlocked Hawaii GPUs as R9 300 series products after a die shrink from 28nm to 20nm, which brings the die size and heat output down to a manageable 314mm² from 438mm². Source
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This is a very odd question but, the beautiful rainbow of colors we think of when we hear the words "silicon die" isn’t actually everywhere, or so I’ve seen. I don’t have much experience so this may be a stupid question. But where is that beautiful piece of silicon on an Intel/AMD processor? You remove the heat spreader and you see... a shiny grey thing, not infinitely beautiful rainbows. So, can someone tell me, how do I bring out the beautiful rainbow of an intel processor? (and yes something old that i don't care about destroying.)
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http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/175089-who-makes-the-most-reliable-hard-drives This is a very interesting article. I remember chatting with some people and one guy told me that Seagate hard drives fail easily (hence, he got a WD.) These to graphs show that Seagate hard drives fail much earlier and have a higher chance then WD and Hitachi. I've also read that the more capacity you have, the less longevity. Do note that Backblaze use consumer drives, so Seagate would be the Barracuda family, WD Cavier Blacks, etc. This concerns me because I have a Seagate Barracuda 3 TB. Any thoughts on this article?
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So according to this article they said the 4960x will have the die soldered onto the IHS. What does this mean? What is the die and what is the IHS?
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